Looking really good with the windows in, and great to be nearly weather tight. Might be worth a temp ply/MDF front door to keep the fairies out. Would avoid solid plaster but instead of dot dab could you batten the walls (got to get that level of course). And as you have demonstrated, don't plant anything significant near the house and drains . . . Look forward to the next one.
YOur home got it's eyes finally!!! WOw it looks so cute and cozy. I can not explain how much I like how everything looks. thoses small dormer on the front left or the small single window next to the entrance door? YOur home looks like from a movie seeting to show how cozy a family can live. Be proud what you created mate! cheers
Sand and cement render, gypsum plaster. Float and set always better imo. Theirs still thermal bridging with dot and dabs because of the dabs. Hard wall is slightly more thermally efficient then sand and cement. If your looking for best thermal efficiency then use insulation backed boards (high cost). Also foam can be used to fix plaster boards which has a bit of a back but does work well when done properly and prevents heat and moisture from bridging. Just my two pence
Mate, JUST trust me on this one, plasterboard is 100x better, not only cause of thermal gains but also and most importantly in comfort/sound isolation/sound acoustics once its done and you living inside,... its not even comparable. Block walls + plasterboard = high quality living houses.
Looks sweet with the windows in mate. That drain awww hate it when in spills out at least you dident swallow any lol. As for plastering just get a few quotes they both look the same once the have been painted don't use sand and cement go for British Gypsum Thistle Hardwall Undercoat Plaster it doesn't crack if you don't go for plaster board then finish with multi finish on top 👍👍👍
Using lime and a weaker mix helps prevent cracking. Cracking us often caused where too much cement is used in the mix. Creating a brittle shell over soft airated blocks. Also if cracking occurs in the clockwork this will transfer through the plaster regardless of what undercoat plaster you use.
You might find the descion for either dot and dab or hard wall has been made for you in your as designed SAP calculation! Along with the wall design, floor and roof!!
Check you Initial Building Regs notice; should all be calculated- SAP and AirTest etc for completion certificate sign off- are you under local authority building control or an approved inspector? Ask you Architect what’s he’s calculated
Suggestion to your tutorial videos: Have more than one camera setup. Saves the travel between each scene. Syncing shouldn't be too hard. (And also looks really cool in the long run) Loving the progress on this. I see myself doing this one day :)
Hardwall (unless you want use insulated plasterboard). Materials will likely be similar to dot and dab from my experience in terms of price. But labour will take longer on hardwall so will cost more. But fixings etc are all so much easier than dot and dab aardvark you won’t regret it if this your ‘forever house’
Dot and dab all day long. Modern plasterboard is quite thermally efficient and less prone to cracking and future problems. I often wonder why we still skim plasterboard in the UK... Most other countries just tape and skim the joints!
Much better finish with a skim in my opinion. I agree with dot and dab though, there's going to be a lot of plasterboard upstairs anyway with the studwork and roof so why mix with solid. Much more likely to crack with different substrates.
I know this video isn’t roof related but I forgot to ask. I’m not a roofer so would like some clarity. I noticed you didn’t put many tiles into the tiles. How come, do you not need to? Would this not leave the roof vulnerable to damage? Like by wind lifting them ?
With the way that plastering products are hard to get at the moment, I’d dot and dab mate, cheaper and less cracking. Plus if your sparkies have just screwed the boxes to the wall then it doesn’t leave you much choice, only hardwall if they have chased them in.
Stumbled on your account a few days and have started to watch this whole series. Its great - but I've just realised I may have driven past this house on my way to work. Are you near a pub? the name of the pub features a flower and a tree name... Not far from a golf course and a nice open area for a walk.
Sand & Cement is the cheapest, but doesn’t stick well to aerated blocks. Hardwall skims up to a nice finish, But I find dot & dab is the most versatile with modern aerated blocks but is the most expensive. Labour is cheaper for dabbing. Not sure about better insulation, but once I had a job specked with for hardwall as architect said in the summer the Dabed wall holds in more heat and house can be too hot. Hope that helps.
Dot and dab all day long. Will fly up. Your cooking with gas now with the house. Hope you can push on and get in for Christmas. I’d get a temp front door installed personally to get the house sealed up 👍🏻
Rodian Builds don’t know your budgets regarding timescale but you could certainly get in if you pushed. You must be itching to get in now your properly watertight
I've always hated doing dot and dab but plastering on anything but plasterboard is a nightmare for my skill level. I think ill go down the dot and dab route but get a gang in to do the work 😁👍
Mate, what I would do on the external walls is knock off any snots then using a castlated tile adhesive trowel I would spread plaster board adhesive on the wall and then press on insulated plaster board flat to the wall. Tapped with a long level to get the boards plumb. This way you get a solid feeling wall to have skimmed without the hollow echo of dot and dab.ive done it a few times and you get extra insulation a solid feel to the wall and no hollow knock. Also can I suggest all TV points get your electrician to first fix a 2 gang box with 2 x cat6 and a shotgun rg6. Run all the cables back to a 1st floor central comms cupboard then have your open reach and virgin cables run to that cupboard and an aerial feed and 6 satellite feeds comprising of 2 for Q and 4 for legacy. Then your comms is future proof. You could run a cat 6 to the back of the house so you can fit an access point for the back garden or if you are running an swa out to a future building/ hot tub area also run some cat 6 and shotgun coaxial from your comms cupboard. Run a cat 6 into any loft space so in future if you have starlink Internet you're covered for everything.
Looks like plenty of thought and experience behind your comment... I would suggest communication conduit from a common location and out to everywhere. The best hardwired network design is always just around the corner.
Hardwall it!! also on the stud walls buy cheap 12mm ply and put it on before the plasterboard that means you can get a fixing anywhere ie tv lights pictures, and means you cant make a hole in the wall if say a little person kicks it.
We just had to strip our old lime plaster due to water damaged we are now going to insulation it and dot and dab due to cost and it means we can use insulation.
Rodian Builds 100% bud that’s how I’d go with it 6mm torx give you a solid fix on the thermalites. If you don’t dab that you’d have to coat the wall with sbr prior to dabs, pva would break down when the dab was on it. Great looking home you’ve build yourself. Will be special when all done 👍🏻
You should dot and dab, But You could also build a 2x2 Frame, Insulate and then board it (wool or kingspan) will have better sound and heat insulation. I know you lose slight space in the room.
You should give it a go yourself , The easiest way I have found is to ping a line/Laser and screw and plug a tile baton on the floor flush where the gyproc would sit and sit the sheet on top and use that as a reference to level up , I'm not a plasterer I'm a joiner, There's nothing to it mate. Also gives the skirting something solid to pin onto
Everything looks great. I bet your yard would give a good landscaper nightmares though. Maybe you should call one in before it's cleaned up for 💩's and giggles. You're doing awesome bud.
Cheers Paul 😁👍 I could get a few quotes just to see what they are asking for a job like that 🤣 I have a load of videos planned for the landscaping though
Don't worry, that pipe was swapped out. I haven't covered it in yet (making sure it doesn't leak first), I will be adding a rodding eye in to future proof it for sure 😁👍
Will save u lots of money haveing it hardwalled etc, and u can do it All i do is foam up the boards with ( insta stick board foam ) wack it on the wall, if your walls are plumb 😉 them screw a few fixings in just to hold it while the foam goes off, Just dont use lots of foam just a nice 10 mm consistant bead 👍🏻
Ps: videos look nice 👍 and dam never seen that before looks like there was loads of roots in that pipe. Would did you do after the removal?, Fix and repair the pipe where the roots got in ( did the roots damage any of the pipe work?) Or replace the pipe/,fitting with new?
Dot and dab mate. I build one off houses like that for a living, wouldn't dream of bonding coating one. Even the best plasterer can't get it as flat as a well dabbed wall, it never keys all that well to thermolites, takes a long time to dry out and it always cracks. Cowboys give dot and dab a bad name with a huge void between the board and the wall and not using enough adhesive. When it's done properly the void behind the board is only about ten mm tops.
I'm not in the trades just a DIY guy hard wall or dot and dab both will need skimming I would of thought. I would imagine the dot and dab then skim would be quicker than applying a base coat(plaster or sand cement render) and then skim? I would also think dot and dab is cheaper, as all though your paying for boards which cost more than a base coat in the hard wall option, I would imagine there's slightly more labour involved in the Hardwell option compared to the dot and dab. As I say just a DIY guy have no idea just a guess. Maybe ask mark hemp about plastering he just done a load on his extension he just did. Or maybe ask the firm your going to get it? Please let us know what you decided and why as this question interests me greatly. Fantastic to see you back and excellent your house is progressing, keep up the good work Rodian 👍👍👍🍺
It seems like most commenters are suggesting dot and dab and that its cheaper than hard wall. I'll deffo speak to a few plastering firms to see what they suggest 😁👍
@@RodianBuilds that what I thought as it's more expensive for the board but miles quick this less labour. Defo talk to mark hemp on RU-vid he's a bricklayer/builder and he just done a ton of plastering on his latest extension job 👍
Neither. Baton the wall out and put some extra insulation behind the plaster board before you screw it to the batons - not the fastest or cheapest way, but you're adding a lot of insulation, it's easier to measure carefully and get your plaster board truly upright and flat (no need to skim if you do it right, and much easier to tile a genuinely flat bathroom wall etc) and you will have convenient wood batons to screw to when you decide you want to put up a shelf/kitchen unit etc. I've done this a few times with my dad at his place - it'd probably never be economical to do as a contractor, but I wouldn't do it any other way in my own house.
I am a carpenter Rodian and to save money I got 50 x 25 batterns and screwed them to the Thermolite blocks . Then i fixed plaster board in the entire house with a screw gun. Honestly mate I haven't got a single crack in the house and it saved me thousands. A simple skim out at a few pounds per metre. This is a 1.7 million pound house now that cost me £550k to build. I do my own plumbing that saves me so much money. Message me if you need help with anything
It might save me a few quid if I batten it all out and screw the board on. Then get a spread in to do the finishing off. Thanks for the offer buddy, if I need anything I will let you know 👍😁
The two worst things about windows for me is having to detape the outside of the window frames and having to detape the edges after the painters have been in
