RELAY comments? YES!!!! You can use them. You could use them before I changed this wiring. You can still use them after my changes if needed. Not all systems need relays and they are one more thing that will eventually fail one day. This video does not cover relays.
Great video! Exactly what i am doing now. I am actually doing 6 separate circuits since I have a 6gang switch panel. Then I am doing 6 other individual switches for the rest of my items. Then I am going to hook these up to a Progressive Dynamic converter like you see in RVs. I would love to see that from you.
“If you have any questions ask anybody else, because I don’t know anything” I LOVE IT! LMAO Great video, very simple technic that will save you headaches down the road.
Hey Bud, think you've misunderstood the switch wiring. The wires you have there are solely for the blue led lights within the switch so you didn't need to separate them. You will then add your accessories you want to turn off and on to the switch later individually and they can have their own circuit with fuse as required dependent on the current.
The one power wire(originally) powered every switch, not just the led lights. There are definitely many different ways these switches can be wired for ones individual use though. Fuses are a must though.
this video is invaluable I was just about to wire one of these up now thank you so much for saving me so much trouble really appreciate you sharing this
Videos got better and better. We are experiencing the same thing.. The Journey is about learning to!! Saved this video to my RU-vid list. ;-) Have many many many skills to learn!!!
Thanks bud. My Chinese switch panel just arrived prewired the same as yours with 16AWG cable so a max of 13As... Im rewiring each switch to go direct as you have done to a fuse box. Each switch will run 2-10A, no need for relays as you have said. And for what's it worth I have bounced this by 2 x 12v specialists and they agree relays are overkill for under 20amps
Legend Dude, Seems like a simple process though I wrecked my brain thinking about how to process this like you have. Once you explain it like you have it is easy. Thanks again. Good Video
Just don't run the load through the switches. These switches are only 2-5amp rated. These pre-wired panels are wired to provide positive power to relay switches. Relays can carry 30amps+ loads. Fuse on the supply side of the relay.
thank you, that's what I was looking for. Just wanted to get all of them through fuse box. By the way, what is the 3rd connector for on the switch panel?
Just keeps a clean complete circuit not dependent on other grounds and my wiring used was red and black(positive and negative) so it was just as easy to use that wire the way it was made.
@@aldente1411 use #85 as ground trigger source (to a switch) on relay. Ground other side of your switch. Effectively you use the negative relay as a Normally off. #86 and #30 to battery and #87 ground to your device. Makes for less wiring under dash as you can use a common ground and daisy chain negative wires to a block and from block direct to battery ground.
sorry but wrong way switches are intended to send power out to a relay and a relay pulls power for a small fuse panel that gets power from the battery or individuals fuses that get power from the battery . So the switches themselves pull very little amperage maybe 1/4 amp at most as all they are doing is sending power to a relay telling it to turn on . Also next time try using flush cutting wire cutters no need to tape off .
Can't argue with your logic but keep in mind this is a multiple purpose panel that can be used many different ways. Many people do not use or know how to use relays and this video is more for those using direct wiring. Thanks for the input :)
Hi there, I have the same switch and I'm wondering about the other two male ( not connected) terminals below the pre wired terminals, which one is the positive and which is the negative? Is the positive directly behind the pre wired positive on the same side? Cheers
Separating the daisy chain in the switches achieved nothing other than to force you to make an extra connection to those switches. The daisy chain power supply is only to power the LED's. It does not power your devices. That is what the other 2 terminals on each switch is for.
Have run separate fused power circuits from this setup for several years now with no problems. BTW this is a multipurpose unit with many correct ways to set it up but you are wrong about this only separating LEDs on this unit.
Ok, I concur that there are other ways to set these up. Apologies for the misunderstanding. I have removed all the common inputs from mine and bring power from an external fuse box and then on to the device.
Exactly. 12v at these amperages are basically harmless when touched. A 12v circuit shorted out or otherwise damaged does pose a fire hazard due to heat though.
It is, but some people don't want or need the extra complications and components required with relays. That is the great thing about these multipurpose panels. There are many different ways to use them.
So the LED lights on the Voltmetre and ports are constantly on? Would this not drain the battery? Is it possible to wire in these to one of the switches below? Cheers
Lights are on when switches are on. Light in cigarette type socket, guage and USBs are constant on. Most or all can be deactivated if desired by removing wires. LED draw is minimal but if put in long term storage disconnecting your battery source is advised.
How could i wire this to have a switch control my subwoofers, stereo and amplifier? Trying to put together a home car audio setup and thought it would be cool to have a switch control different parts.
Your car radio should have two power wires. Yellow is typically constant power - wire to your battery. Red (accessory) is your switched power. You can wire this to your ignition key or any switch - Wire the red directly to one if these switches and you now have a switch for your stereo.
Hi I have a 5 switch controller panel. When it hook up to battery it has s light that stays on full time I want it to only come on when the light to my boat is activated
Well, you are right at the end when you said that you don't know anything...but you are getting views. You have rewired the lights to the switches, unnecessarily
The lights were prewired to the switches at the factory. I didn't make any changes to that. There are many ways to use these multipurpose panels....part of the reason people buy these and videos about them get views.
@@VANquishedAdventures You didn't rewire them wrong, it was unnecessary because the LEDs that glow on the switches have a very low draw, you could have wired the assembly very easily as it was originally designed, and then you could have shown some ways of wiring the switch circuits with and without relays and even show the difference between switching the ground side vs. switching the positive side. I didn't imply that you were stupid, you said it and I parroted you
I see. I didn't get into more complex options with relays etc because that's just more spare parts I have to carry around for when things fail. Just needed more capacity on the cheap:)
Relays are great but add an extra layer of complexity and one more component to fail down the road. This system has been running for about 2 years now and allows greater control and flexibility while not overcomplicating the ststem. But yes, for larger loads and more complex systems relays are great:)
Horrible.. power from the fuse block . Top 5 amps power socket USB volt meter.. Power x6 to relays. 4 prong.. fuse protection from the fuse block. To relay. From relay to the switch lights from the switch all grounds are added to ground block or bar.. u will burn down your boat RV motorcycle. 4 wheeler razor.. if you dont add relays protected off a fuse controlled by a switch.. to. Your light bar.. take off all. Those combined wires. Are re. Do it correctly.. those are letting you know. How it operates. Wire each switch separate with A 4 prong relay.. powered by a fuse block.. fuse block is protected off a 50 amp fuse off the main power . Grounds bundled.. in series.
Relays are great, especially if you know when they are needed. If this was a high amp system they would be needed....but it's not. You have no idea what the loads are so you're incorrectly assuming my loads (aka imaginary light bar) exceed capacity. This system is fused and poses no fire hazards. Again relays are great....knowing if your system needs them is great too.
You've gotta be smart enough to use whatever connectors work best for your application. I used what I had on hand for the video. I mostly use crimped connectors with shrink sleeves, especially on final installs.