Wiring My Model Railroad For DC And DCC Power - Bus Line And Feeders 

Thank you for showing two DC trains running on the same track. So many people say you can't, but if you keep them apart it can work

This was a great piece of work since you included the errors and corrections. It's hard to learn when everything goes just right (especially with a lot of editing) but to see what went wrong and the corrections is very instructive. Braw work, lad.

THIS is 1 GREAT HELPFUL VIDEO … SHAPE OF LAYOUT IS IDENTICAL TO MINE, AND THE BUS WIRE IS RUN IDENTICALLY … ENCOURAGING … THANK YOU BIGTIME

You could use a welding rod to clear out your drilled holes. And you could use it to feed your wires if needed.

Here is a fun test you can do. Connect your volt meter to the 64 foot end of track and read the voltage at approx 11.5vdc. leave the volt meter on and add the train to the starting point. Now watch the voltage as the train heads down the track.

Congrats on hitting 1000 ! :) Oh, yes, and congrats on getting the track wiring done.

Absolutely on the point dear Scott, those ratchet action crimping pliers are so much better for crimping electrical connectors. Years ago my washing machine went ‘kaputt’ inside the warranty period. So, I had the recommended service for my area come over. It seemed to be a quick fix. A few weeks later the exact same thing happened. Now, I checked myself, after all I had seen how to take the darn thing apart. The service dude had just reconnected the pump with a red wire crimp connector. However, he had obviously used his pincers or Monier pliers to crimp the connector. And yes, you guessed it, he had cut through the connector almost completely. So, then I needed a new crimp connector and a tool to crimp it. I had such a simple electrical multitool, to cut small thread, and crimp all kinds of different items. However, the correct crimp saddle with the red dot, sat under the scissor hinge. This was rather inconvenient, because it meant I couldn’t really get the tool into the cavities of the washing machine to crimp the connector. Hence, I went for a browse at different hardware suppliers. Until I found one that sold Klauke, and that’s about the exact same model as you showed on the vid. Such a difference in ease of action and rigidity of the connection. Cool how you did the wiring. Great vid. Cheerio

There will be no voltage drop if there is no current. If a current is set up (by adding a loco to the track for example) then a voltage drop will be measured.

Congratulations Dave on hitting 1000 for your new channel . Eventually you will start to get resistance build up between the rails and the fishplates but as you have put in feeds to a bus it will be very very small . The people that advised you to put in a feed every 3ft are probably using flexitrack which comes in 3ft lengths whereas you are using set track , no big deal . You can wire for DCC & DC with the use of a DPDT switch , let me know if you want the wiring diagram .

That spade connector misalignment reminds us that whatever can go wrong, will go wrong. BTW, when you finally have DCC, having those isolated tracks will come in handy when there are multiple locos sitting on the tracks. You don't want them all sitting there, pulling amps and making noises when they aren't in service.

Congrats on 1k Dave, nice one. The wiring makes sense, I think they call it 'future proof' lol. Look forward to your scenery build. All the best. Brian @ The Angels

Thank you. I have always put feeders on every section of track and soldered everything, the connectors have failed me in the past.

Congratulations on the 1000 subs. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe.

Loving your channel. Would like to see an update on the alternative to magnorail. Looked at many options but this seems the best option. Also I am from Glasgow and love the start of the videos. "RU-vids" only a Scottish person would get that.

Congrats on the 1k subs. 😃

Looking good and congrats on the 1K.

Interesting. South of the border we use black for hot (touch it and you'll be charred) and white for neutral/return. No matter, your layout, your rules. When you've mastered the art of soldering, you can solder your track feeders to the side of the track that isn't visible from the normal viewing angle - the backside. With the code 100 track you're using you should not have a problem with wheels flanges hitting the solder joint even with pizza cutter Rivarossi wheels. I solder my feeders to the underside of the track before laying it, even less visible.

Hi Dave - thanks for the video, I'm also stuck between DC and DCC. I have over 90 DC locos. Not converting them but will wire new layout as if in future plans to go DCC (or both). Going to give DC a try and block it out. Check out Ron at Classic Trains DCC/DC wiring video. Also check his wire bending technique, put a double 90* bend at the rail solder joint, lays flat and horizontal with the rail, much more solder friendly and sanitary. Good stuff, I like those yellow snap connectors hoobie things. Got a name for those ?

great job ... i hated doing wireing as i am a window fitter by trade .... i hate electronics but you carnt have a model railway without doing it ....... i carnt to get to 100 subscibers 👍👍

Hi Dave, that is interesting and unexpected there is no drop in voltage along that length of track. I was led to believe it was necessary to have a number of droppers around the layout to ensure good running. My layout is only 10X9 and I was thinking of adding droppers but I will now go and check my track for any drop. Thanks for sharing this Charlie

You only loose volts along the track if you run a loco at the far end of the run. Then current flows and volts are lost.

Thanks for Information on wireing

Voltage drop will depend on the size of the wire. The tables show that AWG 14 (house hold 14 gauged) can run about 50 feet before an significant voltage drop will be occurring. I'm using household sold 14 AWG on my layout and the runs are about 45 or so feet so should be good. I'm using 20 gauge for my feeders.

Scott got to tell you like your taste fury by drifters... great song.... And of course nice work on your track... In the process of finishing up my n scale layout..Dcc and sound loco's... You're going to love that when you get to it...

I just finished rendering some of my round house track and reinstalling the wires through the bench work. Soldering even off the bench work I still find to be a pain and ponder what I am still doing wrong after watching several how to solder to track video's.

I do not undersand reason for feeders. Although I am running them. Assuming you have great connection at rail joiners. The track is solid metal. It should carry 18v around with no problem. If you were to use the rail to wire your house. It can probably run an air conditioner with no problem. They rail is bassically your wire. Its about 8 guage or better. Your home requirs only 12 guage.

Got video mate picked up a lot of tips 👍

Just found your channel, great video, subbed and will do some binge watching to catch up!

Great job doing the wiring but why wouldn’t you use white and black wire feeders to match the bus? Are you going to add switches so you can turn off the isolated track sessions? Like you, I believed that a DCC loco would be off until you started it up. I was surprised that there was no power drop over that distance too. Congratulations on 1000 subscribers.

love the music who is it playing ? - well explained about the positive and negative

I would believe voltage loss is less critical than amperage loss?

Love your video. I am new to Model Trains and this really helps. Right now I am running my bus wire. Do you have to loop the wire back to the start? It is dcc. I was hoping I could just have one end connect to controller and the other end, just end with a feeder.

Hi Scott

Will you please tell me the official name of the yellow clamps you put on the bus wire and what are the clamps you added to the end of the feeder wire?

Thanks for doing this. I have DC locos only. What are you doing for your switches? Will they be manual or will you be using switch machines? Thanks again.