Your explanation was simple to understand and you're very detailed. Thank you so much for explaining how this works! I tried calling Wolverine and Amazon for tech support, to no avail. Came on trusted RU-vid and found your vid ...THANKFULLY!!!!!!!!!
I just got mine delivered yesterday. I still have not opened the box. Too intimated. This video has given me hopes that I will not break it right off the bat. Thank you! liked and subscribed
Did you break the seal of the box yet? It is all pretty easy. My best advise is to try and clean your film first. Not only will it look better but it will run through the machine smoother.
Well done video but I have one suggestion up to this point. At 6:26, you mention "the end of the film on the left" and on the right. Visible on the left edge of the frame are 2 small white rectangles which, I see later, are really portions the spocket holes of the film. It would be worth mentioning that here IMO. I am watching the rest of it now to prepare for the arrival of m WMMP today. I bought it from Amazon, based to a large extent on your comments and am looking forward to doing the conversions myself instead of paying someone else to do that. I intend to rig up a device to hold a PEC cleaning pad, probably cut down from a full-sized one, with some PEC cleaning solution on it to clean the film before it gets scanned. I'll share info of what I come up with and how it works with everyone later. No reason in my aged mind that this should not do a good job...but then who knows? I've been wrong in the past and extent to continue making boo-boos. Thanks for your advice.
That's sounds like a good idea. I am looking forward to seeing what you do. The only issue that I occasionally when cleaning film using my antique reel to reel machine is when I come across film with broken sprocket holes. The pec pad catches onto it. However, that doesn't happen too often so I look forward to what you come up with!
The sharpness function on these machines is, as you suggest, best left on low. Using the high sharpness can also introduce a flicker/strobe effect on some brighter scenes.
I haven’t ever noticed that. Thank you for sharing. When I put the video in my editing software, I match the frame rate at 24 fps. Maybe this could be your issue.
@@TheMediaNerdMT Perhaps it is only an issue for the basic wolverine. It only happens on bright scenes with the sharp setting set to high, it doesn't do it on the same scene with the sharpness left to low so it is a fault of the wolverine. Perhaps the Pro version is unaffected . Silent Super 8 should run at 18fps.
I don't every mess with the sharpness feature on the Wolverine. I feel that if the film does need enhanced I will do that in my editing software program.
That is cool. I never had an issue with flicker or strobing but I have had issues with jumpy footage. I have tried the stabilization feature on FCX but it can only be used on short clips when the camera is not moving or the picture gets wonky.
My wolverine created MP4 files with a LOT of compression artifacts. I did not use the zoom feature on the Wolverine. I zoomed out all the way so there was no digital zoom going on. I then cropped and adjusted in my editor and the quality was MUCH better.
I've been using the Wolverine MovieMaker Pro for a couple years. It's only as good as the software one uses to adjust the outcome. If I didn't have great enhancement software I would have returned it for a refund. With this in mind, it's a fabulous tool.
I do find that cleaning the film first really helps with the quality. I don't mess too much with enhancement software. What editing program do you use and enhancements?
Thank you very much for watching the video. Yes, you can zoom out to get the sprocket holes if you want. You can do that with the Kodak Reels as well. Please help support my channel by subscribing!
Great video. I can't get past the error message "please connect the power supply" when trying to record. PS is connected of course. Other times it outputs "please recheck film's place" on the same moment. The unit "preview" works fine. It is just when it tries to record.
hi we have 2 Wolverine Moviemakers the trouble i have is repairing standard 8 film if i glue it covers up the spricket holes how can i repair film with out covering holes
after only 70 8 mm reels digitalized, my Wolverine Pro started to make a "knocking" sound once in a while inside the case. It worried me a bit, especially when I saw the digitalized clip on the PC, the movie was absolutely framed since the beginning of the "knocking" sound till the end .... three pictures on the screen scrolling after the noise. It is very rare this to happened, but right now I have digitalized 101 reels, and 3 of them have this problem. Any idea what is going on? thanks
I noticed that the film tabs are visible in the captured images. When you frame adjust to move the tabs out of the scanned film, are you losing the left -most edge of your frame due to the width of the tabs?
First I center my image to the screen and then I crop that image to the screen using the "W". I do lose a bit of an image on all sides but it is not much and in my opinion, it looks better. You can always over scan the film and crop the image in post.
Hi Mark, I'm planning on purchasing the Wolverine, and digitizing 50+year old 8mm reels. However some of these reels have quite a few splices, and wonder if those splices can be a problem while scanning on the Wolverine? I would imagine bad splices would not run smoothly through the scanner. What then? Thanks for your videos, and digitizing tips. 🙂
Great question. Your best bet would be to remove the old spice and make your own. Here is a video explaining how to do that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G9BrPHw27gQ.htmlsi=Xd5lXQCFcOOpwNFC I do have a link in the description to purchase the wolverine. You can find the splicing material on amazon. You will also want to get the pec 12 cleaner and pec 12 pads which can also be found on amazon. Thank you for watching and please make sure to subscribe!
Hi there, thanks for the great video. I am having an issue with connecting it up to a tv unit. I’m using a Sanyo similar to yours. It has loads of flickering and it unusable viewing on the tv. I have tried different monitors and bought brand new cables. I just don’t know what the problem could be. If you have any tips that would be very helpful. Thank you.
It sounds like the tv export jack on the back of your unit is bad and the unit needs to be retuned. I do like the wolverine but I like the Kodak reels much better. Check out my videos on the Kodak to see what you think.
This video is really old. I was experimenting with different ways of editing to keep peoples attention. I have not done the oohs and aahhhs for a long time now. Thanks for watching.
Great tutorial Mark! Quick question for you - Have you run into the issue of "please connect the power supply" when pressing record? I can get everything set up, but I get that error when pressing record. The motor tries to run, but nothing happens. Thanks in advance!
I did have an issue once with it not recording like what is happening to you (I can't remember what it said) but I called customer service and they told me that I had to return it for a new one so I did. Please make sure to subscribe if you have not already! Thank you for watching and liking the video!
Hi Steve. It sounds like you need to do a little trouble shooting. 1. When you start the recording, is the advance pin moving? Is the take-up reel moving? 2. Do you have the machine set to the correct film type? Super 8mm or 8mm? 3. How are the sprocket holes on the film? Are they intact or torn? The advance pin relies on the holes being perfect and not torn. 4. If you don't have any of the above issues, you may need to adjust the press plate. To do that, check out my video on "Wolverine Not Advancing". Good luck to you and please subscribe if you have not already.
@@TheMediaNerdMT - after fiddling around for a while, I found that pressing down on the film a little tiny bit with my fingers, helps to fasten the little holes on to the sprockets. Then the film moves along quite nicely....
@@stevewalls4701 it sounds like you need to adjust the press plate. You will need a Philips head screwdriver lift glasses. I made a video that you can watch.
So the Pro unit converts Full HD 1080p Video at 20 fps. The quality is very good considering. When cleaning up in FCPX, it appears we need to do the following: 1) convert from 20 fps to standard 23.98 fps 2) convert from widescreen 1440 x 1080 .... exactly what ratio for standard 4:3?
I am assuming that it is meaning your SD card. The machine only takes SD cards up to 32 GB. Are you using one that is larger than 32? If you are using the proper size card, try a different card. Is the machine brand new? If it is new, you may have to return it. Thanks for watching! I hope it works out for you.
I nave the original non pro model from about 4 years ago. It stopped advancing the film on the take up reel. I found out there is a rubber drive belt on a pulley system inside and its about 1/8 inch from the motor which gets pretty hot. Does the pro model use the same technology or has it been improved? Thanks in advance.
I remember watching a video on another channel which the person said that they improved the design. I would assume that it was updated for both models.
I have two videos that show the results. One is the film cleaning and the other is the comparison video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wXCtN9qu5kg.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7qKXb3mMod4.html
Hi, a question. Isn't this Pro version supposed to export an mp4 in HD (1080)? What is the concrete difference, apart from accepting larger reels and digitizing negative? Thanks.
The basic version Creates HD 960 x 720 Video at 30 fps. The pro version Creates Full HD 1080p Video at 20 fps. To get the full specs of each one, you can go to bhphotovideo.com. I buy pretty much all of my video equipment from this store. They are great, you can compare products and the call in customer service is unmatched! Please subscribe to my channel! I'd greatly appreciate it. It's a quick click of a button!
@@Andreucho666 I had both and returned both. The Wolverine Pro broke after scanning less than 2 50' reels. It started making a clicking sound and it wouldn't advance the film. The Kodak digitizer didn't break, but certain reels wouldn't advance. It would just get stuck. I still don't know why. It wasn't broke because other reels went through no problem even after one getting stuck. With both of these, if they hit a splice, it will get stuck and not advance, so you have to watch them constantly. If it gets stuck, then you have to stop it and manually advance the film forward, then start it again. I will say, in terms of image quality, the Wolverine Pro is slightly better than the Kodak from what I can tell, though the Wolverine seemed to be more of a "cheap" quality build. It felt like it was going to break easily and it did. The Kodak seems to be a better quality build.
Keep in mind your expectations hve to be realistic’ You’re talking about 50-70 year old film’ While a machine can say outputs 1080/720 mp4 That’s “upscaled” Basically the source data in this case the 8mm film you can’t just add high definition It’s going to look okay but it’s not like it can magically be 4k type quality it just didn’t exists back then’ You can’t add information to an original file’ Here’s an example you are born with 3 fingers hypothetically you can’t add more fingers as they were never there to begin with’ Same goes for a video file Music file etc’ Hope that helps someone
These machines do not do sound. For me, I have to transfer using a projector with sound and project it. For clean audio, I plug the audio from the projectors out jack directly into the camera.
@@arwaalzahid are you positive your film has sound? You can transfer the film without the sound or return your wolverine and send your film off to a person like myself.
Another great post production software is vegas pro 16 and above. I use vegas pro 18 and 20. Many free filters that is not on many other software. The cropping is easy and so is color correction and sharpness. You don't have to been a computer whizz to use vegas pro. Thanks for this tutorial.
Honestly it's shocking how cheaply made this (and the one from Kodak and the others) device is, both hardware and software. Every single thing about this can be improved, and even tripling production cost would still allow for the same price point. Granted the market for actually durable film viewers/digitizers is probably tiny..
I just looked it up and watched a video on it from 2015. It looks really nice. I saw that there are different machines from filmkorn.org which handle regular 8mm, super8 but I didn't find one with sound. It looks like the site is outdated so I doubt they are still available to purchase. Maybe you know of a place?
