Wonky Wrangler LIGHTS? (Turn, Marker, Brake Light Problems) 

Since 1986 when the feds mandated the central stop lamps, they also mandated that they must be on 2 seperate circuits, even if they use the same switch. Some manufacturers used 2 switches early on (Ford), others ran then off the turn signal switch and a separate relay. (GM W cars). In this case the TIPM was missing an input (fuse) but the pcm was redundantly running the main lights, KOEO. As to why it blew, I would take a hard look at the harness at the gate.

Crazy Germans, Chrysler electrical issues, a last ditch effort, and some Chevy Thunder--Ivan has been treating us well 😊 We just need a burned valve replacement now 😂

"In the art of diagnostics, you want to challenge yourself." Thanks Ivan!

Just a blown fuse. I feel your pain. I replaced a radiator fan resistor at $100 for a blown fuse I swear tested good. Ironically when my mom's car had the same OBD code, I just replaced the fuse and reset the light. It was fine. Chrysler got me once, but not twice. Great video Ivan. Now come visit the Midwest sometime, there's always something broken here 😂

Interesting basic problem, Ivan! Bad ground and a blown fuse that played you :-) On the bright side, you got to show the right procedure to go after the center brake light fault.

window scraper jammed between brake pedal and seat is also great for one man brake bleeds

Eric O had this issue on a dodge truck. It was on driver’s side front. To many ground wires on one eyelet. Separated 6 wires to two wires on three eyelets.

Wow. The bonus was more complex than the main complaint! Good work. Kinda sad a shop sold a Jeep that couldn't pass safety.

Your getting pretty good at diagnosing electrical issues Ivan. Thanks for posting

For those corroded lugs and corroded wires I would obtain some liquid rosin flux to help promote the flow of the solder. When doing NASA soldering, additional flux was used even in the best of conditions.

I dealt with this brake lamp silliness before. Brake lamp switch circuit path for the 3rd brake lamp was bad, but then only that worked, other two lamps still INOP. Output wire from the TIPM had corroded through. Got me thinking for sure!

Nice job Ivan--- you are the wiring whisperer !

I always give you a thumbs up even before I watch the video because I know it's going to be good. Thanks for making us all better.

Dirty copper can be cleaned by flux and heat repeated, the flux is an acid that will chemically clean . You should always treat the copper with care ( stress bending ) . When you have tinned the leads and added ring . clean flux afterwards with something like break cleaner to stop the acid reaction.

Oh my! Jeeps have changed so much! I had a '71 back in the early 80's, and I think it had only about 12 wires. Including the one going to the POINTS.

glad to see i am not the only one that goes down rabbit holes. i went down one deep the other day wound up being bad fuel pump would have bet everything it wasn't bad

Good find with crusty ground. Appreciate you honesty with blown fuse... that's why I watch.

Its great that the shop that sold the jeep knows the value of time management, waste a lot of our time or just pay Ivan. 😂

I had a couple lamp sockets literally fall apart on one of the taillights of my 97 cherokee. Ivan likes to re-use what came with things. I learned on pinball machines, and won't do anything without soldered wire splices and heat shrink tubing (and plenty of slack). A high vibration environment will teach you that.

Good job buttercup! Loved the integrity with the billing!

Eric O had a Chrysler Pacifica with a similar problem with the ground by the headlight. Turned out in his case, that ground fed the tipm, and several of its circuits. Fixed that everything worked, including the radio. I had a similar issue on my Corolla. The high pressure switch on the AC system was corroded and turned the fans on high speed all the time. Replaced the switch and cleaned the plug good by taking it apart and cleaning the pins while they were out of the plastic plug. I did find a loose upstream oxygen sensor this morning, plus the rear oxygen sensor that also had a large amount of debris on the sensor (looked like corrosion) and the wiring looked very twisted because someone did not install it correctly. Fuel trims are now behaving themselves.

No parts required always enjoy your videos.

I like light problems as you already have your test light pre-installed in. :D I had one coming in with one of the lights not working. Quick look at wiring diagrams and instantly found a very loose pin in BCM connector. Previous guys had replaced connector at the light module, replaced the whole light assembly and also added extra ground. I had a funny look at the guy when he said many mechanics had tried to find the problem.

Ivan, AWESOME you always amaze me with ur thought process and approach thanks for sharing.cheeeeeeers

Nice and fair Diagnostics! The crust is relentless in your neck of the woods.

Hey Ivan, I got the same "brake hold down tool as you " ! Great video as always.

two red flags for me for wiring probs. 1. "hakosuka" conversion (someone's bound to have banged something around changing to the fancy grille), 2. obviously busted side marker lens. after 16 vehicles (thanks to PA rust rules, mostly) I've gotten to the point where I automatically do a bulb check and wiper blade swap, averaging eight bulbs per vehicle; nobody bothers to check bulbs to see if they work or what shape they're in. I've also found that Imports often as not have clear bulbs in clear parking lights instead of the US required amber, or that plate bulbs are completely out. one car also had uncased LED's substituted inside and out. dome lights get ignored a lot, also.

We should create an "order of operations" for diag work.. Like PEMDAS. Confirm customer complaint- visual inspection- check scantool- check fuses- check wiring diagram- check easiest accessible test point- check most likely test point-- deduce from there, etc..... It can use some work. :)

I was troubleshooting my brother's accord AC for intermittent. Tested across the fuse, read fine. Tried the relay, etc. It WAS the fuse! It broke as a hairline crack! When I probed the top terminals I basically made the 2 halves touch and work for the test, but no power when I let go. Yep, only saw it when I PULLED the fuse out. Ivan, PLEASE try some good paste flux..... really, it's ups your game a lot! Been soldering 45 years.... was stubborn for 20. 🙄

Great video Ivan as always. You didn't lie the fuse did. LOL.😁

Great fix sir loved watching it, I remember my mates car he had an issue with it, he could park up foot on the brake and turn ignition off and engine would still run….. A garage had it for 2 days couldn’t find the fault, I was driving behind him and one of his tail lights was really bright, we stopped and checked the bulb he had forced a stop tail bulb in the wrong way and that was causing engine to run when brake peddle was pushed

You need your own "powers and grounds" tshirt because that is what is in my head every video. Great detetive work as per usual!

Again your diagram reading skills are awesome 👌 👏 👍🏿..cheers

I've been working on a couple Jeeps from 46 and 61 and they have very simple electrical systems but they're tricky to diagnose without readily available wiring diagrams unlike newer vehicles like anything newer than 1970

That neat gas burner gets the heat pumping hot. Nice fix and Houston is counting down for lift off.

Great Auto Electric video. Thumbs up. Thank you PHAD

Can't say I've never checked the same side of a fuse twice, haha. Seeing more bad grounds lately for some reason also. Nice work as usual!

Perfect, a new Pine Hollow video!

No matter what you charge for the center brake light an hour or half hour is irrelevant to me because all is well. Great job Ivan. Classic Chrysler jeep ground. You do act like Eric O. LOL

Heavy duty connections like that wipe with flux before soldering to connector will take solder easyer

Thanks for the video Ivan, You fixed it again.

Great video Ivan! Thanks. Was wondering since you have a bidirectional test tool would you also test the lights independently to rule out any switch issues prior to looking for power and ground issues?

OE diagrams seem a bit easier to use since the name/symbol matches the PPT's for things when the Valley Forge color diagrams don't. But Chrysler OE site is why the grounds don't add up as they stink and are incomplete. Just another company of a few that put more effort in selling vehicles than offering good service info for repairing them. Great find. Thanks for sharing.

30 seconds in I placed my bet. Looked at the dog and said - Finney, I'm going with TIPM! Let's watch a see if I'm a winner 😊

I like your soldering pencil, I have one and they work well. But mine didn't come with a battery so I adapted the harness to connect to a motorcycle battery!

Somebody truly loves that Jeep

Super vidéo thanks 👍

For heavily oxidized copper and nickel plated surfaces (common electrical connector metallurgy) organic flux core solders are much more effective at cleaning and encouraging whetting than typical rosin flux core. A quick rinse of the connection with water is required after soldering, to remove residual flux.

Well, ita a jeep thing lol. Bad ground and rust area lol. Great diagnosis ivan! I went wrong way with center light. It was short. Thought it was bad ground at the time! Great video ivan!

Ivan . Dont forget the dodge tipm will disable the lights if their is a short .... even if you clear the codes . You have to disconnect the ground for 15min to reset the tipm .

I think there is a G102 conspiracy. XD Seems every bad ground is G102, or 106.

Good job Ivan

I have a 2011 Sport with the 3.8 and already lived through this exact problem with the hyperflash turn signals. As soon as I lifted up the G102 eyelet, 4 out of the 6 wires fell out. I made up 3 smaller eyelets. Oh yeah, the horn must have been in there too because it came back to life.

I was taught when first starting out as a mechanic, back in the day when we were all called mechanics before TECHNICIANS, that always start with checking the fuses on every electrical problem first.

I've had a few times where I was chasing my tail trying to find a broken circuit, only to find that the good fuse I tested earlier is then blown. Glitch in the matrix maybe? Who knows. I now use the proper amp testing circuit breaker beforehand to make sure it's not a sneaky fuse.

Thank you for thew honesty.

I was going to say to check the plunger adjustment on the brake pedal switch. That’s how my Toyota switch is set up. All this takes is to move the switch a few millimeters and it is fixed. No wiring diagram needed.

Luckily I'm still bad enough at diagnostics that I tend to go straight to the fuses first no matter what. :) I don't have data subscriptions-- so the fuse box info works as my "diagram" to get things going. If all that checks out, I'll try to dig up a wiring diagram in forums and google images, etc. You can usually find it surprisingly often that way...

Ivan you should have used some black heat shrink on the earth repair would definately stop water intrusion.Cheers mate.

Honest Ivan shows the good, bad and ugly. I like his professorial tone as well.

I enjoyed the rabbit trail. Key off , no brake lights was a good clue that were missing battery feed. I probably relized it right after you did.

Your the man Ivan

Excellente!

Im calling it, Improperly installed trailer wire harness! Edit: nailed it!

Another great video. Sometimes us old dogs chase a rabbit just for fun. Stay well my friend.

It's a dodge so it's always the ground. Everyone takes bolt out and cleans behind eyelet but Mopar always loose contact between wire and eyelet. I normally just grab wire individually and pull. If it breaks it's bad.

If you checked the fuse with the key on and brake pedal depressed then the fuse checked good because you were backfeeding power to the load side of the fuse.

With it most likely a ground just based on symptoms, I think I would have given it a good ground as the first step as proof of principle. It's only temporary unless it works - Red Green :-)

Oh, G102. You are our Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge/Ram go to ground fix.

I know in my Holden Commodore it will fail a registration inspection if the middle brake light doesn't work in the rear spoiler so it has to work. Secondly, you were going to have to make sure that the brake light circuit was o.k. because there was a reason that the fuse blew like a short circuit to ground,a short circuit in the LED light assembly, etc,so you were going to have to test that circuit anyway !

Ivan, when you are "tinning" wire connections (after cleaning with a brush) put some flux on the connection before you try to add solder. It will make a big difference. Don't rely on the flux inside the solder wire.

another brilliant diagnostic. What blown fuse?

The amount of flux in rosin core electronics solder is ok for solder pads on circuit boards, but often not enough for larger surface areas like wiring, especially larger diameter wires. I like to use soldering paste, apply it with a small screwdriver. Requires less heat for solder to flow well and you get smooth shiny surfaces vs lumpy/rough/dull, with much lower possibility of a cold solder joint. In fact, the wiring will wick the solder right up. So much so that you have to be careful soldering near connector pins cause solder will wick in there. I also like to dip the tip of hot soldering iron in it, then clean off with a damp rag or sponge to keep it nice and clean. Check out this vid showing how soldering paste helps solder to flow: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OWNAjwhwzro.html

Good fix Ivan. I be thinking red flag warning with the blackundercoating. Could be covering LOTS of rust. Maybe not.

Chrysler . . . smh. I enjoyed the third brake light diag the most. I'm sure this was already mentioned, but one thing I would have done differently was to heat shrink G102. Sealing the connection like that it will last until long after that truck is junked.

Thanks'

For cleaning corroded wires, get a jug of muriatic acid from the hardware store and a medicine dropper. put a drop on the end of each wire and it soaks up the in the wire like a wick and leaves them remarkably clean and shiny. Then spray them down with some wd40 type spray.

Eric O has found that bad ground on multiple Chrysler products. He sometimes checks it first when a Chrysler product presents with electrical issues

Like high dense foam expanding process. Those smoke coming out from the solder are the same thing. Health hazards and It cant be cheap unless you know whod you working for

Awesome

Hey, if I was that Jeep I’d be throwing codes too having to wear angry eyes!

I think Eric O. had a few videos about these Jeep light grounds

Lol i had front blinker issues, i threw bulbs at it nothing. Then i decided to remove the whole harness. Before that i checked the ground wire near the power steering resevoir or that one by the airbox. It was a bad ground. The ground wires at the ground stud were corroded inside the wire and they wete cut just enough to give me an intermittent issue. Wound up puttin new terminals on the blinker ground wires and redressed the whole headlight/blinker assembly

I use that same brake pedal depressor.

Im imagining watching the jeep heading down the driveway... All three brake lights nice and bright. A couple of stones, a little shake and bounce, and a little flicker in the high stop.... uh oh.

& that's why I use lots of Fluid Film in the engine bay.

Great job finding the problem, just didn’t like how you made the repair, wires were still dirty when you soldered them, and no flux, then reused the old terminal, that had the factory crimp and not reusable

Nah, what we need is an Ivan engine destruction! Blow up and engine for an engine swap episode.

2 mins in ..... im calling bad grounds by the headlights . When the tipm goes it goes .

Ivan, did you solder and crimp the wires to the strain relief? Shouldn't the wires have been soldered/crimped further up the eyelet?

The German Die Autodoktoren channel tried to copy you and diagnose a ABS malfunction because a mouse was visiting the ABS wire :) They spend a day to diagnose the error ABS sensor replacement etc while the simplest wire integrity test was left to the end :)

I have a question if you dont mind. A went to a shop to look at a miss fire on a 2017 dodge with the 3.6. It ended up being the rocker arm bearings failing and wiping the cam. So during replacing the intake cam with a dealer oem one (bought from dodge) its throwing a p0344 cam sensor code that wasn't there before. My question is if the relucter ring got magnetized could it throw that code. The reason I ask is when the shop was doing the rocker and cam the set the cam reluctor wheel on a strong magnetic by accident. I scoped the signal and everything looks good but Bernie had that case study and got me thinking.

brake lights not working with key off, ford/foreign input did that long ago. unsure of year/make/models, but I can say as of 2001, there was MUCH of that implemented. 🤣🤣

Wow mam 😮

Please post the leads you use. I have a bunch and they seem to always be a pain in the but. Yours seem simple. Thanks

Ivan wich scantool do you find is best for asian euro cars? IT should be in the 6-900 dollar bracket preferabbly be able to do things like program keys. I know you made a video not long ago but there seem to be new contenders since like topdon and thinktool/ thinkdiag.

Nice vid. What headlamp r u using?

My youngest son has been in school for the last 2 years, training to take over for me when I retire. This is his last year and he decided to quit the job he had for the last 6 years and find something in line with what he training for to get through this year. He got hired on at Mieneke as a lube tech. I found out from my brother in law, (who owns his own shop too) who was running that shop. It happens to be the ONLY employer I ever had that I snapped at told "you need to get the fuk off me". Twice. That was around 25 years ago. Little wormy fuker with small man syndrome. I haven't told my kid yet. LOL!!!

So the center brake lamp circuit is separate from the L/R brake lights? Redundancy? if one circuit fails, you would still have the other circuit active?

I wonder if sorting the grounds also fixed the ABS fault. Did you rescan the codes after?