@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I am 76yo retiree who enjoys both woodwork and sailing so between you, Leo (Tally Ho) and Steve & Alix (Acorn to Arabella) I manage to 'not waste a single day'!
Hi Bob, At times the plans spoke of canvas coverings. I didn’t realize that the canvas was laminate on. Now it makes sense, and that the use of canvas cloth was a precursor to fibreglass cloth.
Really cool method to seal the canvas on the fore deck and aft deck. The chain plate work was really awesome as well. Did you paint the underside of the decking on both? Perhaps that is in a video to come. Great work Bob and Thanks for sharing!
I second your statement and would add that he would also pass film editing exam. Perfect blend of light, sound and background noise / songs. Last but not least he would pass the exam in cleaning. His garage is as clean as pharmacy 😂. Absolutely love all videos and the whole series.
I always learn something valuable from each of your videos. Thanks again for taking the time to speak with me the other day about my own boat building project. Looking forward to the next video!
That's a nice idea using gesso to bed the canvas, it's basically acrylic paint with whiting which gives it the body and texture. I did a painting on a gessoed 12 mm MDF panel that has been outside in sub tropical Queensland for 13 years and no sign of deterioration yet, my guess is the canvas will give up before the paint. Typically we used to bed canvas deck covering on oil based paint, using up the dregs of whatever was around in the yard, in those days most paint contained lead which really helped it stick.
Another outstanding video Bob. Interesting sealer there would never have thouoght about using Gesso. I have seen and used a primer sealer paint called Gripper to do the same thing. Some how I also see you collecting all the bronze scraps from the chain plates and bolts to cast a bronze cleat for the boat.
Glad to hear you call the utility knife by the right name. 9/11 they started to call it a box cutter because they did not know what it was called. 25:00
Interesting about slotted screws. I remembered reading about the flat shanked cabinet makers screwdrivers with a parallel tip to match a specific screw size as opposed to my relatively “universal” tapered tip screwdrivers. And the ease of cleaning out the head to remove a screw - even paint makes that a challenge! Thanks for the video.
Really beautiful work, Bob! I had no idea about the canvas! 😮 The most interesting part is that the "gesso" I know here would melt in contact with water! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
That gizmo you used to drill the chain plates looked pretty crazy. I think I have seen something like that at Home Depot but I didn't really know what it was used for. I'm really enjoying watching as your build progresses.
Nice idea about using gesso for the canvas. Please report back on how it fairs in this application, once you have had the boat in the water for a while.
Who knew that the head of a slotted screwdriver had to not only be the right width, but also the right thickness to fit the screw head? Years of carving up screwheads have gone by and nobody ever told me that! What else don't I know? I guess I'll have to see you next time on The Art of Boatbuilding!
22:00 New idea for me, the Gesso, I build models boats and in the past used shellac to attach a piece of paper towel to look like canvas. I also do art, painting so I may try the Gesso. The slotted screws I wonder about over the years. Now I know. Thank.
I believe most people don't like slotted screws is, the common screwdriver is greatly tapered whereas industrial screwdrivers have very little taper and have close tolerance to the screw slot. Also, I believe I remember, Gesso is used as a base for gold leaf with a rabbit hairbrush. Maybe you can use it on the transom
very surprised how easily that oak bends! Like a cooked noodle! Interesting use of Gesso rather than epoxy on the decks. Do you use any kind of protective coating on the brass/bronze to prevent quick tarnish in a marine environment? Really enjoy these videos! The walnut toe rail will be a beautiful touch!
Actually it is not hard to clear square head screws and the like. Just use another screw set up on a battery drill's driver bit and use the screw to "drill" into the center of the buried screw. This will remove the bung and glue from the screw well enough to allow the driver bit then to be set into the burried screw head! I usually tilt the driver with screw back and forth a bit to better clear the hole. This is a very fast process as a power tool does most of the work. I'd counter that with the slot screw, it is all hand work to clear the slot! Also if bunged, aesthetics is not an issue but you are correct if authenticity is your number one goal! Great video though, in spite of my contradictory opinion! Thanks for sharing! All the bestRoy
Wonderful video. Just one question, Bob. Why canvas instead of bright-work wooden decks? I know the design calls for canvas, but it is your boat and your call to change what you wish. Just wondering. Thanks. Edit: oh, second question... Why bolts on the chain plates instead of the rivots? Is that for ease of repair in the future, or because you don't have the help to back up the rivoting process?
Are you familiar with gunsmith screwdrivers? The differ from "normal" screwdrivers in that the sides are parallel. I prefer the insert tip types that can be used in drills or hand drivers for that reason.
Asking because I don't know.. The plans call for a water tight bulk head. You did not paint the boards/panels all over? You did not apply sealant to the joints? Why did you paint the hull inside the compartments but not the deck and bulkhead? Will you use a sealant when you apply the walnut trim strips where the deck meets the hull? If any water at all gets into the bulk head spaces it will condensate on the bare wood. I like the wax toilet ring for lubricating screws! Thanks, JIM
Great Videos Bob - any concern with the canvas bonded to the plywood, and the wood moving over time (expansion and contraction) either buckling or tearing the canvas? Thanks Rick
Bob - Never heard of using Gesso on canvas. Very interesting. Did the Gesso fill the weave of your canvas? I was also wondering if you know of other boats where Gesso was used some time ago, and whether Gesso held up over time?
The section detail through the chain plate appears to show a haunch at the upper end of the oak backing block to transfer tension load from the rigging into the sheer clamp without only relying on the top bolt. Am I reading the drawing incorrectly or did you determine this detail was not needed?
Some use Titebond 3 on the canvas so it dosn't matter about water soaking in at the edges. Also for the added wear from shoes and beach sand. Glass is still the king but old school has bragging rights.
While I think the sealed canvas is a great idea, I'm a little surprised you covered up all that nice woodworking you did on the aft deck. Wouldn't marine ply be a quicker and cost effective alternative?
I am reading Dan Brown's Inferno and Dr Langdon finding Dante's death mask and explained to his partner about Gesso and it is exactly as you describe. Never heard of the product and here I tis mentioned twice.
I'm sure you must have seen Lou's self made chasing tools for repairing screw slots. All the bronze slot heads came out of my resto boat, the x heads had to be extracted. The chain plates and canvas look stunning. I was amazed at the price I was quoted for 9" of 5/8" bronze rod, even its brass equivalent was dear enough. How have you found the cost of the flat stock you have?
What is the reason that you used canvas on the front and rear decks? Is it for an old-fashioned appearance? Or is it to provide a nonslip surface? Could you not have used a commercial nonslip surface to achieve the same results? I loved watching you do this, but I don’t understand the reason for using canvas.
Nice work on the decks and chainplates Bob. Never knew the trick with the gesso. I learn something new with each episode. Question: What model of Yankee driver do you have? I lost my driver and can't remember which one I model I had. It was the longer one and I want to replace it. Thank you.
The aft deck is made of wooden boards and the foredeck is made of marine plywood. Is this because the wooden boards are needed to support the boat handler’s weight as opposed to the thinner plywood decking on the bow? Otherwise you could of used plywood on the aft deck as well since everything is covered in canvass.
Slotted screws were the only design available until the 1930's when technology allowed manufacture of other designs. Amazingly, the now ubiquitous Phillips screw was not invented until the early 1930's!
Why the 1/2" hole in the chainplate? That rig shouldn't need anything larger than 3/8" turnbuckles so the clevis pin would also be 3/8". Is there something different about your rig plan?
Hi Vince, Any gesso will do, it's all the same. I purchased mine at Michaels here is a link www.michaels.com/white-gesso-artists-loft/M10999016.html?r=g&cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Art+Supplies_N_Smart_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-9972406790_adg-106296476328_ad-433378147599_pla-1341674404478_dev-c_ext-_prd-M10999016&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpreJBhDvARIsAF1_BU3ipMYSbvcbv8Xxxqyx8ab-AZseWtHUhXdKdHLwN7sckS3zHSiFFewaAjeJEALw_wcB The canvas is 8oz just make sure its 100% cotton! Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Out of curiosity, how well does gesso hold up to salt water and direct sunlight? Or fresh water for that matter? Never seen it used in an "industrial" application before.
I had a job stretching and prepping canvas for my college art studio. We’d often spill or drip gesso in great quantities much to the dismay of the janitorial staff. Once it dried you’d need a hammer and chisel to remove it. Like Portland cement only worse.
This is a lovely boat and I am reluctant to be critical yet I have concerns about its design. It appears to me that there is little in the structure that will stiffen the hull to resist wracking. In larger boats there are knees and thwarts added to provide the necessary sheer. In this design the opportunity to provide sheer is in the decks and bulkheads using plywood but that requires a continuous diaphragm with gluing and edge fastening to counter twisting forces. In both the bulkheads and the fore deck plywood has been pieced together which can work if the seams are solidly backed with wood and glued and screwed. This wasn’t done here. Additionally, for some reason the aft decking is planks instead plywood which is a lost opportunity to prevent hull flexing. The forces of wind and waves against the rig, hull and keel may lead to eventual movement and flexing of these components and the hull itself.
This boat design has been around for over 100 years. The Haven 12 1/2 designed by Joel White in 1985 is based on the Nat Herreshoff boat, designed in 1914 called the Herreshoff 12 1/2. The basic difference is that Herreshoff is a fixed keel and the Haven is a movable keel. This is a tried and true design with thousands and thousands of boats being produced. None of the concerns you have listed have ever been an issue. If so the design would have been changed in 1915. I would invite you to take a closer look at Captain Nathanael Greene Herreshoff. herreshoff.org/inductees/nathanael-herreshoff/ Here is a link to some of Joel Whites boat designs including the Haven 12 1/2 www.woodenboatstore.com/collections/joel-white-boat-plans Thanks for watching. Cheers, Bob
Bob, I think there was a step to be cut in the oak overlay on the chain plate that keeps the oak and bronze from pulling out; at least that's what I thought I saw in the drawings...
Thanks for your comment. I usually don't allow ads during the video. In uploading it last night I missed turning them off. Just went and disabled the mid video ads. I appreciate your bringing it to my attention. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
