I knew they couldn't even get it past the compression stroke while starting it.May be they could get it to start with a solid piece of wood but It still wouldn't be able to turn a load.
@@iuhsdihdslifuvholuidfh I was really surprised it didn't lose its shit after the plugs went in. Just the starter fighting compression would seem to me to be everything something like that could handle and then some... Then it breaks and they attempt to rebuild it. This is why I can't be a tuber... I have common sense
I studied and practiced fine joinery and carpentry for 5 years. I am by no means a master carpenter. Far from it. But I had the privilege to learn what I learned from master carpenters. A single piece of wood in this application would actually be weaker. Its all about aligning the grain to prevent fracture. The wood is strongest when load is applied perpendicular to the grain, loads applied parallel to the grain cause the wood to split along the grain. If he drilled large holes through the journals and glued in hickory dowel rods through the journals it would have lasted longer. Using laminates of thin layered plywood built up to the needed thickness for the webs of the crank would have also increased strength. Better yet, make the journals out of solid round dowel rod, hickory or ironwood, or osage orange, something like that, and make the webs out of high grade plywood comprised of thin laminate. I still dont think it will work, but it will last longer. You will be able to get the engine to fire this way. How LONG it will last is another question. Another note, the wood must be knot free as knots are only strong under compression, they fall out when tension is applied!
@@Xeraghusta You do know that no wood is actually heavier than aluminum. It's not even close. Better consult some density tables like this one >> www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-density-d_40.html
I see the logic but surely under load, the dowls (pegs) would become the weak point? If not them, the holes they're in especially when or if he was successful in starting the engine?
I studied and practiced fine joinery and carpentry for 5 years. I am by no means a master carpenter. Far from it. But I had the privilege to learn what I learned from master carpenters. A single piece of wood in this application would actually be weaker. Its all about aligning the grain to prevent fracture. The wood is strongest when load is applied perpendicular to the grain, loads applied parallel to the grain cause the wood to split along the grain. If he drilled large holes through the journals and glued in hickory dowel rods through the journals it would have lasted longer. Using laminates of thin layered plywood built up to the needed thickness for the webs of the crank would have also increased strength. Better yet, make the journals out of solid round dowel rod, hickory or ironwood, or osage orange, something like that, and make the webs out of high grade plywood comprised of thin laminate. I still dont think it will work, but it will last longer. You will be able to get the engine to fire this way. How LONG it will last is another question. Another note, the wood must by knot free as knots are only strong under compression, they fall out when tension is applied!
@@lessevdoolbretsim Its all very contextual. Its also how the load is applied whether its parallel to grain or not. For example, if you you a plank with a rabbit (a rabbit is an offset tongue with one side of the tongue being a continuation of one face of the board) you want the rabbit side pointing in the direction of the load. If the rabbit is facing against the direction of the load then the grain is more likely to split as you're concentrating the stress inside the inner corner of the rabbit. This is just a simple example of many different facets that must be considered when orienting wood joints to maximize the strength of the plank. Grain orientation and consideration, coupled with high surface area for good flue contact (this is why very fine finger joints can be stronger than dovetails in some applications) is everything when it comes to the strength of wooden joints. Japanese puzzle carpentry is a great example of particularly elegant joinery. When I transitioned from learning fine carpentry due to there no money in the ancient artisinal skills anymore, too few people appreciate fine carpentry for a a carpenter to afford a reasonable living, and I wasn't interested in slapping together homes with nails, I picked up machining and engine building. Read some books on metallurgy and studied engine designing and engineering very intensely for over a decade thus far. Most machinists and welders subconsciously think of metal as a homogeneous material equally strong irrespective of direction, but grain structure also exists in metal. The only true monolithic metals being metal glasses which is a bleeding edge area of materials science research. Castings are the only forms of metals we are familiar with that are effectively agnostic to direction of load. Rolled bars, sheets, plates, etc. derive much of their strength from the compression and orientation of the crystallized grains of metal being compressed and elongated parallel to the direction of the rolling mill. This is why forged parts are, all other factors being equal, always stronger than billet parts. Their grain structure has been aligned with the shape of the part and consequently is uniquely suited to handle the loads for which the part has been designed for. Billet parts are like this wooden crankshaft, the grain of the metal has not been oriented to optimize strength. Forged metal components differ from wood in that their gran orientation can be made to elegantly bend, ebb, and flow with the contours and corners of the parts being manufactured. Wood cant do that with near the degree of flexability and the ability to take sharp corners with grain orientation. Though wood can be bend with steam and pressure to create interesting wooden arches, contours, etc. which are stronger in some situations that straight planks of wood joined together, metal grain structure can be made to take immediate bends that are effectively arbitrarily sharp (IE as tight of a corner as you like) and can be made to do so with much greater ease then steam bending wood.
@@megaglowz8540 I think it would have to be a custom-bent plywood to have any chance of running. No way any solid piece (even ironwood) is going to stand up to the torque without shearing along the grain lines.
I am glad I found this channel. Truly incredible the work these guys put into trying crazy ideas. Glad to see content coming out of Russia also, I hope Russia stays open for the rest of the world. Some seriously cool people there.
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@D. B. Well here's the thing; as a part of my divorce settlement, my ex got to keep my nads in her purse. My doctor tells me I need to get them back........but I'm afraid of her.........
VLAD!!! I hope youtube translates my English into russian. I'm a Mechanical Engineering major at a university in Colorado and I wanted to give you suggestions on how to improve the ridgity of your WOODEN crank shaft :). So instead of using glue to just connect the counter weights, main journals and connecting rod journals into one crankshaft unit. Instead, use wooden dowels with the addition of glue to JOIN all the components together. This will give the crankshaft extra mechanical strength than just having glued contact surfaces... If you think of wood grain, it flows in one direction, which is why when chopping wood, it's better to chop it with the grain in the vertical direction instead of the horizontal direction... You probably know this already, but I just wanted to say that with the same concepts of using wooden dowels to connect all the components together, you take advantage of the wooden grain being in the horizontal direction... SO the force exerted onto the connecting rod journals will exert the force onto the wooden dowels, instead of just the glue contact surfaces... I hope you understand this, your channel is an inspiration to me on "thinking outside the box." Please keep up the awsome work man. You aught to do a feature on your show where other people show off the ubsurd mods they have done to their cars lol. Best of luck Vlad. -Evan To @Garage 54
A real machinist may have been able to make a whole crank out of wood with the right lathe chucks and tools that would have probably stayed together for a little bit, but it probably still would have broken in the long run. I still love the crazy ideas you come up with and try.
@@buddy1155 probably, imho, as well... until the journals got to hot/messed up. I think a BIG factor would be to have it running "right" too! I think they should've set the ignition timing BEFORE even trying to start it, instead of just twirling the dizzy around while cranking... I think a few "fires" that are too far advanced would be REAL hard on a wooden crank!
@@billymanilli I think the main issue would be lubrication of the journals, just how good they are lubricated (and cooled by the oil) would make the difference.
@@buddy1155 Yeah, man, I guess we see it pretty much the same then! I was thinking along the lines of "even if we could dry-sump oil it, or stick the oil pump pickup in a pan of oil or something... I wonder how long it would take the wood to soak up the oil and expand/soften/make a mess/etc.." At any rate- would love to see someone actually machine a crank out of a good hard piece of wood and try it again lol
Use PVA wood glue and dowells to lock all the crankshaft pieces together so they cannot turn and break off ! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK FELLAS ! BEST WISHES FROM ENGLAND 👍👍
I love all the comments on how to get that wooden crank to actually work. A bit of a Lead Ballon scenario. These guys should team up with Myth Busters for an international episode.
I am a wood worker. I see that the crankshaft is put together in sections. This can work but I have a couple of suggestions. Wood glue is very strong but needs to dry overnight. Second the glue joints need to be clamped together and clean from any grease. Third to increase the strength you need to use wooden dowels between the joints or use wood screws in each section put together. If you glue two pieces together properly the wood may break before the glue which is very strong. If I had a Lada crankshaft here in Florida I would be inclined to try it. Also try a hard wood maybe Walnut tree wood.
I studied and practiced fine joinery and carpentry for 5 years. I am by no means a master carpenter. Far from it. But I had the privilege to learn what I learned from master carpenters. A single piece of wood in this application would actually be weaker. Its all about aligning the grain to prevent fracture. The wood is strongest when load is applied perpendicular to the grain, loads applied parallel to the grain cause the wood to split along the grain. If he drilled large holes through the journals and glued in hickory dowel rods through the journals it would have lasted longer. Using laminates of thin layered plywood built up to the needed thickness for the webs of the crank would have also increased strength. Better yet, make the journals out of solid round dowel rod, hickory or ironwood, or osage orange, something like that, and make the webs out of high grade plywood comprised of thin laminate. I still dont think it will work, but it will last longer. You will be able to get the engine to fire this way. How LONG it will last is another question.
🔥❤😍👌awesome video nd love from INDIA. the reason why the crankshaft have broke is because you are running the motor DRY without oil, because u have tried to start the motor alot of time and during that process the oil in the main crankshaft bearings have dried out nd that resulted in the breaking of the crankshaft 😅😅
It's unbelievable guys, You nearly made it. I must say that You have incredible ideas, great workshop possibilities, but You must work on Your engine skills - if You would set the ignition properly without sprark plugs to avoid a compression it would be running for a few seconds instead of flame torching thru the exhaust, but still congratulations it nearly worked :)🤘
Now there's an interesting one, and on a standard 4 cylinder it would be possible but requires a redone camshaft and after that simply change the ignition to fire 2 at the same time. Massive torque peaks but uneven RPM I would guess.
The 2000 mpg(yes that is miles per gallon) vehicle efficiency projects have motors that only fire every 10 or more revolutions with a massive(by comparison) flywheel. There are lots of interesting experiments that could be done by varying the crank and cam setups like you suggest.
@@jonahcottrell2879 No, it does not need to be made a two-stoke. There is simply a delay between the firing of the two sets of cylinders. Not hard to understand...
@@murmenaattori6 not hard to actually read my comment either lol I never said it needed to be 2 stroke just that it would be how it'd fire in a 2 stroke configuration
This is a great idea to test, and it would be cool to see the difference in performance between this wooden crankshaft and one that is carved from one piece of wood.
He could make a forged wooden crankshaft by forcing a tree to grow through some iron pipes welded in a jig in the shape of a crankshaft. it would take about two years to grow though.
Thinking the same thing. There are woods like that which would work and get it to reliably idle with tensile strengths exceeding 3ksi but the cost and availability is outlandish for some of them. You'd also need a pretty large blank to start with and Ironwood may not be available in such a large size.
Wood is such a wonderful material. It makes great tables, guitars, stakes for killing vampires, etc. Why wouldn't it work well for crankshafts? I'm deeply puzzled by this.
For your second revision I suggest drilling holes in every link and use wooden dowels to strengthen the connections. There are ones being long enough to fit the cranks in full length and noone could honestly tell you didn't just use wood because you did! Another thing I was a little concerned about was that every wood glue I know needs loads of pressure while curing. I am not shure, if you have put enough pressure to the linkages. And one last thing would be to lube up the pistons with Motocoty and the crankshaft with something along the lines of wax to give you more time to play with the engine.
Need is relative; the pressure is there to minimize the gaps so there's as much wood and as little glue as possible, and no air. In this application I doubt it made much difference. I fully agree with your idea to reinforce the joints with pins; that would make it MUCH stronger because you'd have solid pieces of wood taking the shear instead of glue joints.
Wood glue is significantly stronger than wood, so if your glue is failing to hold it's because it's not being used correctly(or is the wrong type of glue). For maximum bond strength, impregnate your surfaces with the glue by pressing it in with your fingers or something, then apply more glue and clamp the pieces together. If your glue is properly set, the wood will get shredded long before the glue even thinks of failing, assuming it isn't being damaged by water or chemicals.
Im a mechanic if somehow you were able to machine a wooden crank out of a solid piece of wood I recommend soaking the crankshaft in a big bucket of oil for at least 3 days would be less rotation friction from the flywheel to the timing gear might hold up longer maybe long enough to run the engine
Fun fact: early heatshields for spacecraft and (allegedly) nuclear warheads were made out of wood, one side used a incredibly dense wood fixed with a epoxy, the other used laminated wood like a airplane prop. As they encountered the high heat of re-entry a layer of carbon foamy type material formed, and protected the payload. Took years and years to beat simple wood! 🤣🤣🤣
Maybe if you drilled some holes and put some hardwood dowels through each joint. I would LOVE to see this tried again with a 2nd gen wooden crank with a bit more engineering.
My father is 83, mind and memory is ok. He is a retired mechanic. He was laughing away at it, and suddently surpriced by the fact it turned around a long time. After the video he said, take a new wooden pole, of dense trheetype, and let a bigger machineshop cut a new cranckshaft. All in one piece. I do think it will work, on low compression. Is it worth considering?
I have an idea.. but you need a stronger crank and some ignition mods. MAKE ALL 4 CILINDERS FIRE AT ONCE LIKE A 1 CILINDER ENGINE. OR 2 AND 2 AT ONCE LIKE A 2 CILINDER ONE!
Use some harder wood to make the crankshaft,like oak and as you mount the pieces together,drill holes 2-3 holes on every glue point and put some wood screws in there. Also lubricate those bearings better and it mite work for a while. Crazy ideas need crazy ways of doing them😁
I think if you also use a wooden insert in addition to glue, I think it will hold (it can be a square, triangular insert) and maybe try to plate it with metal, as the wood swells due to temperature and oil. I don't know if there is a varnish for wood to withstand high temperatures.
try A; using drilled holes & dowl between the joints, B; using a glue a bit more hardcore then what appeared to be PVC glue (wood glue) C; try letting the glue set for a week instead of a few hours
