I have two model 14s and one started to drip a little from the washer inside (not the stem & packing nut). I have been dragging my feet on tackling this and afraid of what a plumber would charge me, but I was also afraid the drip would freeze and block the line and create a disaster. Your video was all I needed, and a big thank you to whoever said the parts kit for the model 17 would fit the 14! I went to my local big box store (Menards) and they only carried the kit for the 17, but thanks to them I knew it would work. I had a day off work and it is warm so I couldn't wait for an order from Amazon. Another thank you to whoever said to remove the packing material first and the rod would come out much more easily; it worked like a champ as soon as I dug all that petrified packing fiber out.
Thanks for sharing. I looked all over(Lowe’s, HD,Ace,etc) for a repair kit like this without any luck. I had just ordered the parts online but after seeing you mentioned Menards, I looked up the nearest store and sure enough they have it. Beats waiting days or weeks for parts to arrive in the mail with a leaking faucet.
Thanks you! A project I wasn't looking forward to turned into a 15 minute job and kept a couple hundred bucks in my pocket. You made me look good in my wife's eyes :)
Very informative. I watched a few before this one of yours. None of the others, including the This Old House guy, explained every detail -- you did. Thank you.
The heat tip was clutch. Thank you for this video. Just finished the job. I had trouble with the valve seat rubber and the retaining screw. Could not get it to screw in after I set it. The new valve rubbers seem almost too thick. Had to keep the old one for now since it works and isn’t worn completely down.
Thank you. Model 14 is similar. A leak from the threaded spigot on mine was solved by replacing part 3008- valve seat rubber. Also need to replace 30560 EPDM packing washer because the old packing is destroyed during removal. Rather than spending $20.00 on repair kit RK-17MH at the home improvement store, see if you can just order those two parts and save yourself the money. All the metal parts are reusable. Mine does not use 30418 check valve but yours might. You won't know until you have it apart, so you might as well just order it too so you have it during the repair if you need it. 30421 packing washer does not work on the model 14. You'll need to reuse your old one or find an equivalent size. Go easy on tightening the packing nut. You can tighten it further if necessary while you're testing the faucet after the repair.
Thanks stuntcardriver! Your video gave me the confidence to try and succeed at this repair. Saved me $200+ bucks for front and back hose bibb and future water bills! Pandemic house repair FTW! Thanks, my dude!
Thanks dude. I have the same brand as yours and I couldn't pull that thing out to save my soul. I knew not to use excessive force but every video I would watch showed them pulling right out, well pretty much anyway. So then I see your video and you show that it has to be screwed out...... Helloooo!..... BINGO. No other video has shown me that. So after a half dozen unsuccessful attempts I tried your way and it's now out. Funny thing as I was watching your video I was telling myself that I know that voice. Then I looked and recognized your channel name. I'm also a tractor guy. I have a X758 and I have a few videos under my name. Thanks again, I did appreciate your help.
My faucet was wide open. I didn't know a little wear would cause it act like that. I could turn it all the way left or right and it had no effect, it was just wide open. I followed your repair and it works great now. Thanks.
Great video on Woodford Model 14 faucet repair. It was extremely helpful in performing the repair with the model 14 repair kit. I experienced similar issues with un seizing the value rod, but by removing the old packing nut (same wax/fiber material as in the video) and working the corroded faucet back and forth I was able to release and then replace with the model 14 kit. The result was a perfectly working faucet with no leaks. Many thanks for a very informative video.
Excellent and very detailed video! I can't thank you enough as I have three of these model 14s at our 50-year-old house which are leaking. I ordered the parts and I'm excited to give it a shot. Many thanks
We just did ours. I wish I'd known in advance that the stem was so far gone that I was going to need a whole new one. I did not realize it was just the packing material and the metal washer (no wonder they leaked). We now have a new stem and handle on both spigots, and it no longer leaks! Sure, it's not compliant with modern codes due to the lack of an anti-siphon valve, but they're soldered on, and replacing the entire spigot was a definite no-go. Ours would not come out at all until the packing material was removed. At all. Once it was removed, it was super easy (because of course it was)
A nice long fairly detailed video. I suggest NEVER using a wire brush (let alone one a power drill) on any soft (brass) landing/sealing surfaces. For the landing surface at the stem packing area, a fine emery cloth is a better choice just for the reason you mentioned (won't rapidly change the conentricity). I use a narrow strip and wrap it to have no high-pressure point while running the cloth completely around the landing in one direction (NO back and forth) to mnimuze concentrated surface removal. FYI I have two Model 17's. Those can be opened so far that they will release completely from the internal threads that drive the washer to the valve seat. I suggest opening the valve the full amount every use to ensure the threads are cleared of lime/calcium, let the line clear, then push the stem back in and twist COUNTER clockwise until the stem goes in quickly so the threads are aligned then twist clockwise 1/4 turn slight engage the valve at full open.
This was helpful, thanks! Especially the part when you have to turn out the assembly with quite a bit of force. It felt like I was going to snap the handle or the rod as hard as I was going at it, but the parts are actually quite beefy. In the end, my handle was calcium welded to the rod and it was unsalvageable. Woodford's website shows the same rod for the Model 14 and 17. Lowes carries the Model 17 and it turns out the guts from that fit the Model 14 housing perfectly.
You can remove the knob by heating handle with propane torch after screw is removed. Hold stem with a good pair of channel lock pliers or a vise. . Then the handle can be tapped off. Use no more force than necessary but it comes off without too much trouble.
@@edmc1000 The rebuild kit was $26. The new assembly was $37. Taking a torch to crusty parts is not worth saving $11 or worth salvaging the crusty parts. Not to me anyway, maybe for the next guy...
Thank you so much for this video! I've been dragging my feet for years on doing this to one of my faucets because I was scared to break it, because it would mean having to remove tile in one or both of my adjacent bathrooms if I needed to get into the wall to fix a broken pipe!
Thank you for your video. I couldn't unscrew my Model 14 stem either, very similar to yours. The packing (part# 30560) was frozen in place on mine. The stem wouldn't unscrew further, because it was trying to push the packing forward. I tore the old packing, out with a pair of needle nose pliers. The stem screwed out freely after that.
I did that too. Albeit the washer behind does not come free and I can't remove the stem. I would need a new kit and stem as someone prior to stripped the handle end.
It was stiff unscrewing shaft because the packing nut or packing material had not been removed . You really need to remove the packing with a a small screwdriver or tool . Then the stem will unscrew easy . I had same problem then realized packing was the issue…
Many thanks Sturncardirver! You saved me calling a plumber ($$). NOTE The faucet had been repaired before and the head had been broken off the retainer screw. I removed the old valve seat rubber washer and put the new one over the stub of the old screw. I was a bit worried but it worked just fine when I put it back together. No leaks and lots of adjustment left for the EPDM packing!
FYI - there is a tool for pulling faucet handles off the stem. Also Power Blaster spray works well to loosen up frozen or corroded screws so you can get them out without breaking, I use it on car nuts and bolts all the time.
I replaced all the washers but still have to really tighten the handle for the faucet to turn completely off. Can you please give me your recommendation on how to fix this.
The washer that goes on the end of the stem is what shuts the water off. Is there some debris in the faucet housing causing the washer not to seal? Do you have the correct washer installed? If there is debris maybe try a bottle brush and scrub the housing and then turn the water on to flush it out before installing the stem.
Any chance you can use an anti-seize compound on the handle spline and the screw that holds the handle on to allow easier maintenance in another 20 years?
How did you figure out which model of faucet you had? Mine is old as well just curious how you determined which one you needed. I’m not seeing a model number on my faucet.
What do you do if the threaded piece on the inner end of the stem where the washer goes is loose on the stem? Got one these style (different brand) and I have replaced the washer twice and still won’t stop leaking. The only thing I noticed was that piece was loose on the stem, and I don’t think it should be.
I've sometimes found it's easier to turn off the water for the whole house at the street than to try to screw around with non-functional shut-off valves.
