Thanks, any questions on the mill just ask. It's not a Woodmizer, but for $3500 difference, I'm satisfied. I've found that the second cut on a log is key to getting straight lumber, and have learned that I shouldn't push my blades past a certain point of dullness.
thanks, I think the mill is good and I am looking into one for myself. Just cant decide if I want to build or buy. Thanks for the info and look forward to more videos.
Matthew Prestine, One thing to consider is not just the cost of mill, but all the ‘extras’. I have a 32 hp four wheel drive tractor, but no FEL. Bought a used boom which will pick up to 20” log 8 foot. Some front weights would allow more. Already had a 20’ tandem axle trailer, but added 9500 lb winch & winch mount, for parbuckling, and a log arch on the end. With a deep cycle battery, that cost me $700. Then there’s extra blades, cant hook, chain saw, etc. I am going after a dozen large pine trees (free) next week with my new winch setup. Should be at least 4000 bd ft. That will keep me busy for awhile! I’ll do a video of how that works out. Thanks for the subscribe!
Great review. Just about ready to pull the trigger on the Woodmaxx. Question, if you had the chance to do it again, and money not an issue, would you still choose the Woodmax?
Brian, if money wasn't an issue, I'd probably go with a Cook's. Followed closely by Woodmizer and Timberking. Sure would be nice to have hydraulics! Good luck, you'll enjoy whatever you get. Saw dust gets in your veins!
I would definitely get the same mill again...if my budget was the same. And, if you are just planning on milling for yourself it'll do it all, just takes longer with an all manual mill. Just the mill setup not counting a way to go get logs and to load them on trailer and on the mill, I've got about $5500 in it. If you've got double the budget, then go with a Woodmizer Lt15 with a trailer pkg. It's just faster cutting per log. And they finance. I could make a little money with a portable, trailer package, but that's not what I want. I've cut 15000-20000 board feet and only replaced a set of bearings. Cheap and quick to do. I'm about due to change one of the two belts. The blade belt, not the drive belt. That is quick to change and cheap as well. Any more questions just let me know. Thanks.
I paid $4250 delivered, which included a 10 pack of blades. That also included electric start and bed extension. That was over 3 years ago. And I can cut around 17’. Haven’t pushed length limit yet but did cut a 16’ 3” log.
Matthew Prestine, There are two 'spots' which appears to be the start of rust. I plan to use a wire brush to take it down and see what's up. Then just probably spray primer on it. Not sure if it's the steel used or the galvanizing method used. I assume this is made in china and assembled here. But even if I didn't do anything, rust would never weaken 1/4" angle enough for me to worry about that. Just an appearance factor. There are also a couple of spots where paint is coming off. Same thing, brush and paint will take care of cosmetics. I understood when buying this mill that it would not be quite the quality of some other mills. But, for the price, which is half or less of others, it is a bargain. I really am quite pleased overall with performance and the quality of cuts coming off the mill. If I was in business to saw for others, then I would have went with a Woodmizer with hydraulics at 9 times the cost. I'm 60 years old and only want to mill for myself, family, and some close friends. This mill is more than enough to handle that. Look for an upcoming video on what the channel is about, building a homestead for retirement, energy independence, etc; which is the main reason for the sawmill. Thanks for the question, I'll always be honest with viewers. No sugar coating here. -Moondoggie
I'm on the look out for your wench video also it looked like you had two pieces of pipe on your trailer also I wasn't sure that was part of your lift or not.,im buying 2 20' pieces of angle to set up my tracks before even trying to install them 9 pieces of aluminum that's only 9' long lol.
Ba'rad 's, the two pieces of pipe are for the parbuckling over the side of the trailer. I used treated 4" x 4" the first time on some pretty big logs, which worked fine. But, I saw those pipe, asked the guy if I could have a couple, and he said yes. Which is about helping someone out and a return favor. I'm not saying my setup is the best as far as base. I would have rather set up on concrete, but I plan on moving the mill as soon as we find our retirement homestead. That's what the channel will be about. I will put up a video on what all I will cover on the channel this spring. I've just been kinda throwing things together and working trying to set up a new business for my wife also. I looked at the Hudson mill. I originally was going to purchase the harbor freight mill as I am only cutting for myself and a few friends as well. Happy I stepped up a bit on the mill. It was down between the Woodland and mine. Price took a lot of others of the table. Thanks for the questions. I think this format is great for learning the ropes. Btw, I'm looking at a quick dog system, that I'll fabricate or have someone do it. Look into that, as it will save a huge amount of time at the mill. To me, they'll be worth their weight in gold! My biggest disappointment really has been that I can not cut but to 2" off the bunk. So, I always plan on a 2" x , on the last cut. Not a really big deal, as long as I plan ahead.
yea after you said something about parbuckling I had to look It up,,it looks to be a simple and easy way to load logs and probly easier on the wench,and my trailer is just right for it,its just a flat bed I have about 8 eyebolts mounted on it.16' by 7.5' home made out of 3" channel I bought from a farmer down the road.i also looked at the harbor freight mill it was like 1947.00.then I ran across harbor they was stating they were the biggest seller of mills ,not sure if they were correct but ill find out shortly lol .oh the dog clamping assembly that's on the frontier looks like its pretty good and may be simple to build something close to it.im sure others has some like they have.
Southern Sawyer 's, on the log arch, it ain't gonna bend! Welder talked me in to 3" tubing, it's heavy. I have it set up with 2- $30 sleeve bolts. They go thru a welded on plate on either side of my trailer. If I had to redesign it, I'd add another 12" to the height. l loaded the red oak log that in the video labeled huge red oak. That log was 27" diameter, 13' long. I only had to hook up three times to load it all the way on the trailer. My tractor nearly couldn't drag it off! I also recommend putting a couple small logs or limbs 3 - 4" in diameter under your logs in the trailer for ease on offloading. Rounder logs will roll under weight of logs.
I think he was gonna make mine out of 2 and a half I think,yea I seen the bolts you had holding yours with was wondering what they where,i was just gonna let them build a foot for it to fit in until I seen ur bolts,i was gonna make it 10' high that was mounted in center but I went back told him to mount to the rear of the trailer and make it 5' high,yea yours looks well built,the welder had also talked about welding a plate over the joints like yours are. that was a grown log you had working with,i don't plan on getting nothing bigger than the cant it can cut and that's only 19'
