Woodworking ideas and projects. Easy way to get the perfect cut. Amazing woodworking skills! A Beginner's Guide to Woodworking. Carpenter Tips and Tricks #shorts #diy #woodworking #carpenter #howto #tips #tricks #skills #project
The shit after the first cut isn't even the same piece.. plus it would have wasted about 1-2cm of wood. I also figured the length mattered here. But the technique still has its place
For those hating that he isn't using tools designed for this, consider that he is showing an alternative or more rudementary way of doing the job? What if you can't afford those tools yet, forgot them at home, or someone else is using them on a jobsite and you don't want to wait, etc of many different scenarios? Also, in my mind, if you can build, do or figure something out using the most basic building blocks of that field/method, it means you have a good understanding of the job, subject or whatever it is. Good example was NDT's (Neil DeGrasse Tyson) interview and anecdote on interviewing someone for a job and asking about the height of the building they were in. Someone may give the correct answer because they googled it or worked in the records office, but the next candidate went outside, calculated the angle of the sun and the length of the shadow and used that to get their answer. So many ways to get the same answer, some are more impressive and show your underatanding, perserverence and ingenuity more.
After only having the stomach to read the first three lines of your comment, correct tools or not, that structure is guaranteed to fail with no adequate fastening to the cinderblock wall. There are far better and inexpensive alternatives than to have a roof collapse on people due to not having used sufficient brackets.
Ako ova osoba pokušava da podučava nekoga bolje da ode u muzičare jer smem da tvrdim da kao tesar ne vredi ama baš ništa,,,ovaj posao je sramota tesarskog zanata
@@johnrobertson7583thanks for telling everybody you have absolutely no clue what you are speaking on. You determine what your height for your stairs are going to be as well as the length and then you determine your rise over run but then after that there's a few other avenues that you can do to find the angles for your skirts and yes I've been using a speed square for this or framing square and a myriad of other tools since I was around 9 years old and I'm 37 now. So please don't speak on things that you're uneducated on and you're speaking to somebody who's been doing it for almost 30 years.
@@Jason-TheChad-Muska_circa1995 Only 37 and you’ve already mastered the language of the condescending boomer that can’t figure out why nobody wants to be around him.
Once you find the general rule , it becomes easy. The key in this cutting skill is" TRANSFER Of PARARELLINES " use any objects. it can be an offcut wood, set square or rulers to transfer the joining line on to your connecting timber. This method works for me I hope does it for you too
As long as you can hold that 45 degrees off the wall perfectly this will work great. Otherwise it would be usefull to have a tool for that. Something to quickly mark it square.
To all the people who dont get what he is doing and calling it crap, well its not, it works, its easy, its accurate on both ends, and its quick. So If you want to pull your tape, put numbers into your calculator, mark and cut your lumber then realize reality isnt perfect like your calculations, scribe it in place and cut again. Jump on it. But its another trick in the box for me.
What I struggle to figure out in these situations is what if the board is 12ft long and you only need about 8ft to anchor to ground. How do you know what angle to put the board against the wall for the 1st cut?
One cannot use tap cons, or any other type of screw to join would to cinderblock/concrete block the way you have assembled and installed this framing first of all you need to have leg bolts and I’m not certain whether you are familiar with the amount per linear foot it’s great if you’re doing a deck at your own house and things don’t work out well then you can certainly change it. Hopefully no one gets hurt. In the meantime I’m not certain where you’re located, but as I stated in ONTARIO there is no difference between the installation of a deck and the installation of living space or an add-on extension etc. an existing structure or HOME first and foremost once you attach that sill plate…. To the existing structure for example yeah I want to add a 10‘ x 10‘ deck onto the back of the house well as mentioned as soon as you place that plate or attach that board to the house automatically you’re now increasing the living space in which case your town city whatever it might be they might be wanting to have a talk with you to increase your property taxes Because you’re increasing the living space you can build the deck but it can’t be attached to the house. If you do attach it to the house sooner or later somebody’s gonna come around mainly inspectors and they’re going to start nitpicking and saying well you just added another 200 ft.² for example to your living space now we’re going to have to readjust your property taxes, believe it or not this is the shit that goes on secondly, as mentioned, if it is on the outside of a house, you cannot make direct contact with concrete, concrete block, cement, or any other aggressive acidic structural medium. In other words you must place super six at a minimum, which is vapour barrier between, the wall which is or should be concrete block and what should be a pressure-treated sill plate….. I can almost hear it happening as I’m writing where the government has stepped in and basically will ask you to dismantle this deck and again as I mention, don’t attach a cell plate to the house you can put sono tubes in the ground and you bring up 4 x 4’s and attached to this with a let’s see half-inch gap between the back of the house and the beginning of the deck you can certainly run your 4/5 boards or whatever you’re planning on and extend those over the last choice so there is a gap, but then you can bring your horizontal boards pretty much right up to the house so there’s no gap when you come out the back door but it cannot be attached to the house unless you’re looking for an increase in property tax at least that’s the way it is here in Ontario here in Canada any chance they get, unfortunately they’re all over us. Godspeed be well and be safe please… I truly apologize if I’ve offended anyone as this was not my intention
First ..where did you get the first angle from ? Second .. the wood it a known width ,, if its 1½" ..just measure in 1½" and up whatever height you need ..
The video says "perfect cuts" not cinder blocks, therefore, the cut is a great idea, it works for me, the rest is just an argument about a different topic.
You know this guy is probably improvising, plus hes not experienced. Just doing some DIY and finding a way of solving his issue.. Yea there is better ways to do this but hes working with what he has... and at the end of the day it still works.
Не так-то всё грамотно для незнаек но в конце саморез в газобетон😮😮😮 для такого соединения возможно какой-то несущей конструкции👏👏👏👏👏браво это заслуживает аплодисментов даже с таким длинным саморезом и под таким углом...
Fine for a hack. But, any one familiar with building can lay out those cuts before the board comes off the saw horses. And the ledger should be at the top of the rafter, just like a ridge beam.
Make the pitch mark with block on the concrete block not the ledger after all that is where the rafter rests. Slide the rafter back in place to make sure your pitch cut is proper. With rafter held securely use a block or your rafter square to mark the seat cut then measure the depth of the seat cut. Then measure the bottom of rafter at far side or heal of rafter witt block or any straight edge. Adjust the bottom out equal to the depth of the top seat cut with pencil mark and make plumb line. Make sure your bottom seat cuts are the same depth and after cutings seat cuts it will drop in place in parallel. If bottom seat cut is less than 2 inches take a little off the bottom seat to make 2 inches as per code. This will work perfectly well. If you make full depth seat cuts at bottom of rafter to match header the depth of seat cuts gets unnecessarily deep and compromises the depth of remaining rafter tail especially with pitches over 6/12
Unless an identically thick piece of timber was laying flat under the board being notched, then the math doesn’t work, as it has to drop down to sit square. I will assume that step is missed from the video to save time.
The block isn't concrete it's a thermal block that fixing won't last 5 minutes an won't pass any building regs but that's done on purpose to boost comments and views
The truth here is the angle will chage because making the 1-1/2" notch loweres the pitch if this is a relatively short run on the slope it would be noticeable both on the peak and on the seat. The best fits come from actually understanding a little geometry and math, not cheats. Just saying 😎
My concern is the screws in concrete with no anchor or even the right screw. Fuck the fact the way he measured it all that shit falling out with the smallest weight.
