Worlds Best Streamer ? Bits are Bits RIGHT? 

Good idea about mounting in an old cd player. Thanks for that great idea. My biggest issue is the case and that is perfect. I will make a video on that and give you credit.

@@ThriftShopReviewsI completely removed the pcb board, cd transport mechanism (sold it for €5), glued the cd transport front to the chassis, and kept the original power button.. I made an opening in the back for the Raspberry Pi ports, and fixed some high-end chassis connectors.. Cleaned the unit, and it is my stack. It looks super-tight....

​@@gerrit-janslettenhaar4252 Did you ever consider leaving the cd transport in the case, for the ability to play from cd? I guess you could use a SATA to USB converter in order to connect the transport to the PI if the transport has SATA interface. Your idea is very cool.

@@oscarwahlstrom5426 The Marantz has a very good Philips CD transport, and I kept it as spare part. Let try to connect it to the Pi...

I purchased the crysteks from Digi-Key and accusilicon from Aliexpress

I use this streamer to reclock the digital stream and then go to a dedicated DAC. You can add a dac hat to this streamer if you want.

I’ve tried a lot of streamers!! This is the best I’ve heard. Other though have better software and apps. I might switch to roon or plexamp soon to fix that issue.

@@ThriftShopReviews ah good to know, thanks i will probaly get mine soon for this reason i currently run dietpi and the rpi is setup as usb audio gadget which bascily means you can hook it up to a pc, it runs pretty flawless with camilladsp and sq seems quite good, but maybe not a purist solution

Yes please!

You can just pull them out. They aren't soldered in.

I got it from eBay. I will try to post a few links

I made a video of the assembly. Super simple. I think the difference between xmos and unison will be very subjective and based on the system being used. Most of the xmos implementations I’ve heard are not as good. Perhaps some higher end components using xmos are better. I will be building a new streamer soon.

@@ThriftShopReviews Do catch that on video too please! :)

@@ThriftShopReviews can you link me to the video please? Can't find it. (or are you talking about this video?)

@@Thoughtflux I will try to find it.

​@@ThriftShopReviewsthe assembly video seems to have disappeared -- any chance you could re-upload?

I believe Ian does. Check out the models at audiophonics.

If you feed ANY dac with a lower jitter (and phase noise) digital audio signal, it will always be better. Even top of the line reclocking modules, don't do magic. If you can help the process, it's always better. That's why there are audio differences between clocks. And price too of course... And never forget, the cleaner the power you supply to the clocks, the better they will perform. The batteries and supercaps used are exactly with that intent.

But I personally would test this streamer withe the usb connection with your DAC....I suspect that it will outperform the optical (spdif)...

I don’t have the eversolo to compare but would guess closer to the eversolo master edition due to using the higher end clocks. Keep in mind the raspberry pi software is not as good. Would be good if you use roon or title or have a local NAS. Volumio works but can be a pain compared to streamers that you can you use streaming services.

@@ThriftShopReviews I appreciate the response. Yeah I’ll be using Tidal only. So you’re saying if I’m using tidal it’s easier to get the necessary software in? Also what was the entire unit with all the parts and modules rough estimate? Lastly I saw you M3SI video and I just ordered a M2SI on eBay last night because of it. Was able to grab it for 470 out the door. Has some nicks on the front plate but it seemed like a decent price. Hopefully it pairs well with the JBL 4309s I have. Thanks for all your input and btw love your videos. You get into the details which is rare now n day on YT.

Good idea. I will post a video since many have been asking. Thanks

I was looking into that one also.

@@ThriftShopReviews basically it's the old TeraDac design very Vinyl like & detailed

@@ThriftShopReviews it also runs on ASUS Tinker with an older image, selecting Hifiberry

@@thinkIndependent2024I compared a Tera DAC 1543 with 1387 DIY and different others. The chifi 1387 is extremely good, much better than 1543.

Benefit is for the wallet of the snake oil seller.

Here's the way I think of it. Upon close examination (i.e., via oscilloscope), you'll see that the power output of the Pi power supply (even good ones) is not a flat line - it's not even a flat line coming out of your wall socket. While the rPI doesn't draw a lot of power, you are affected by everything else in your house, your street, and the power grid. These fluctuations will change the operating frequency of electronics and since digital music (see I2S) is totally dependent on a clock with a precise frequency, you are affected. These capacitors effectively isolate the power source from all these variations. As stated throughout, this is for people wanting the *best* sound quality possible. If you're listening on your PC speakers, you probably can't tell.

​@@imkressiveWe're talking about logic circuits bro, use async USB and not those dumb, old and low tech interfaces... Never thought about why does a CPU with multiple layers and billions of transistor running at multi-gigahertz, powered by a totally average quality switching power supply never makes any error? The very easy to understand principle dates back from the first TTL logic gates, we call that detection levels = immune to noise... And for the "clock fanatics", jitter is just noise and not detectable by human ears unless you have a completely broken component...

They are about 2.7 volts

There is more danger from a 9v battery than the super cap.

@@clivestevens3547 then you can lick them safely

Waste of money anyway...

Then build one and let me try it. Would be interesting to try. Most people are not that electrically educated to make something like that. Sounds like you are though

@@ThriftShopReviews I building It. Of course I'm not going to use picovolt noise floor LDO, I'll go for simple cap bank, and linear PSU based on some LM338 or LM350 IC. But this is secondary detail. What's really important - I own precision ADC (-128dB SNR, 0.00007% THD+N), that I think able to catch difference of distortions added by the DAC fed by the bare RPi, and RPi + clock. And objective measurement is the thing, that way better than statements like "I heard huge difference that changed my mind about the whole essence of the nature of things". It's even more objective, than those blind tests, that so carefully avoided by most of audio bloggers.

@@Anatoly_Panchenko love to try it

​@@Anatoly_PanchenkoOk I built several PI(s) 3,4 boards then I looked a all of the top rated MFGs are using the CM4 module so I tried a PI400 with a linear power & additional LC filtering .... All the extra work went away I will never build a PI board transport again just use a CM4 or just an x86 on a Linear clean power supply either has better thermal management therefore better clock performance . I get my power noise down to the microvolts with over the counter parts ( ChiFi module)

@@thinkIndependent2024 I contacted Toppling about their E30ll DAC, and asked if there is any benefit to use a streamer, with precision clock. And they answered that their DACs stuffed with circuitry that eliminates jitter at usb input. Either PLL or reclocker. But I ordered OCXO board already, so I’ll try to measure differences with, and without precision clock source.

So what you're saying is that a linear power supply would make your pc "more precise", isn't it?

I guess you need to try one to verify your logic.

I mean thats correct but from a technical standpoint how would it differ, it is not like my laptop has missing pixels etc I just dont get what a streamer would add above easthetics. As far as I know Speaker>Amp>DACs

Trust me my logic was like yours for most of my digital music life. I kept finding that expensive gear was using reclocking with high end clocks so I thought I would find a way, the cheapest way to find out. The Ian Canada streamer boards are extremely high end. You can do a lot of things if you look at what he offers. I went with the simplest items and was blown away. Keep in mind I’ve spent over $5k in my analog system to get good sound and this simple streamer blew it away. All I’m using is a reclocking device on top of my raspberry pi computer. Now with this said synchronous and asynchronous are two different things. So if using usb you must rely on the Dacs conversion which I find to absolutely suck unless using high end clocks. You can also use a digital to digital converter and get similar results. I suggest you try a cheap ddc and see for yourself. If not return it.

@@ThriftShopReviews- first off, thank you for the video. I am still learning & it helps. @StagnantMizu makes sense from what I understand - that is unless you saying that a DAC is unnecessary via your build? I had always thought that the optical output of your device would have to be decoded in a DAC in your preamp/amp still. Any insight is appreciated.

After some good sleep, re-reading all comments, and help from bard, I think it's starting to gel better in my head. Since the output via SPDIF is PCM's data, clock, and channel info it makes me think that having gitter-free clock signal has value. Yes, I expect that the a downstream (high quality) DAC may also have re-clocking, but having higher quality input data will lead to making that DAC perform even better. Prior to this research, I was thinking that the source data stream was being transmitted over SPDIF - this would lead one to think that you're essentially copying the original byte stream from one component to another (i.e., like copying a file, clock is irrelevant). I now think of it as being 3, 4,or 5 separate streams that all must be synchronized by the critical clock data as it travels to DAC.

Have you built one with Ian Canada boards? I’ve built many pi’s before and this is hands down the best I’ve ever heard. I’m aware of other mini computers but stray away due to top board options. Also, I keep volume control turned off as it degrades sound quality. A noticeable step down when using Ian Canada boards. Really thinking of going the room route as endpoint as I’m tired of Volumio. Thanks for sharing.

@@ThriftShopReviews 1. Roon requires a server. 2. @ $12 a month Decided 20 put that into 512 USBs and local rendering 3. Just use a retired cell phone to control the steamer. 4. 12 volt AGM or Gel Cell are very quiet forms of DC supply and are very prevalent and easy to procure.( Over super capacitors) 5. yes ICAN stuff is interesting I built the EVO Saber DAC 6. As I said also " Tested with Oscilloscope" The the Mini I tested didn't shoot noise back into the mix that was my comparison basis. 7. This stuff is fun!!! My personal electronics journey started in the mid 80s HIFI earlier than that. 8. Beyond subjective I measured to reduce noise because I could tell there was more detail available and I found it. 9. you never asked which Mini PC because it's definitely not all or any of them 10. I have no position to defend I tried roon outside metadata & the 3db checkbox in their software is smart because lowering digital to prevent digital clipping changes almost any DAC to more than adequate.( Vinyl tops out at 70db) so lowing digital a little doesn't hurt anything

@@thinkIndependent2024 I get what you’re saying. No issues with that at all. Just to be clear my review is not about the computer but the top hats. I do agree that better computers can and will help along with power supplies, reclockers etc. I do appreciate your comments and attention to detail. Love to see if we could build something amazing. Let’s talk about it.

@@ThriftShopReviews BMAX B1 Plus allows direct connect to 12 volt AGM battery I took have noticed instability of the PI with Volumio and thermals when heavy use. What's good is that the B1 takes the image perfectly and runs stable booting from the EMMC and the Music pulls best from the USB3 My bigger project is fixing Interaural crosstalk This problem has been there since HIFI was invented in the 1930s look it up! I have built my prototype now I need to combine it with the best DAC so it's all under 1k when you hear music without Interaural crosstalk it's like you are right there in the room where it was recorded everything comes @ you and her even hear it go past your ears and body ( it's that last 5%) and you keep your same speakers,amp just upgrade to this new DAC like watching a movie in 3D multiple people can have the same experience at the same time not just the " Sweet Spot"

​@@thinkIndependent2024you need to make a video explaining things please. Your experience will be of great value. Just use your phone camera. (I'm a computer engineer and have no clue about electronics. Never used a soldering rod in a circuit. I'm intrigued by dyi. I do tinker a lot with my humble setup.)

have an first gen Ygdrasil with gen5 usb. but currently i run a 5m usb cable tho advice is not to exceed 2m. hence they idea to use Ethernet as the "transport" and aes/ebu as the connection. not sure how hard it is to make something as a complete noob.

Ian Canada makes a transport card (to use in place of the one shown in the video) that transmits AES. But, its via traditional balanced AES interconnect - not CAT6.

@@chrisd1405 got a holo red streamer with AES ebu/outputs. unfortunatly on of my ams and speakers stopped working. will take some time before i can find out if it is even repairable without having to sell a kidney. shit happens i guess

No need, use USB to hook up to the DAC in async mode, can't be better than that. Other than that, streaming are just bits put into TCP/IP segment, whatever the format used. It's best effort and with default buffering in async mode, you're all set. No need anything special, and don't fall for the peddlers that want to sell you "audiophile grade ethernet switches", complete BS...