I did this today on my 1987 Suzuki quad runner 300 that was slipping very badly (it would barely move) and same thing happened, the clutch drum had deep groves and the clutch had worn down a lot. So I did the same(removed the grooves with a flappy disk and used the dremal to regroove the clutch) and it does not slip anymore! THANKS MAN for the vid! Very helpful.
Just bought a Kawasaki bayou klf220 (late 80's early 90's model) that is doing almost exact same, maybe a little worse. Going to try this DIY method this weekend. Great video and very thankful for it!
This is amazing. Thank you so much for showing how all that works. I would have just replaced the whole assembly (which means for some older ATVs, it is cheaper to junk it), but this extends the life with a pretty easy fix.
Even if I dont do it , it was great video that shows the problem real well , explains the clutch workings and shows a cheap fix., well done. Thank you!
No I've been searching all over the place for videos on what my four wheelers been doing and this video is exactly what my four wheeler was doing so great great video it just helped me find a problem with mine
I have a 1986 Kawasaki bayou 300 2x4 and I need to do that same exact job and now I know how to do it lolz. Thank you for that video. I'm gonna be re surfacing the drum and I'm gonna put 4 new clutch shoes and springs in. It's only like 60 bucks. And I suspect that there's nothing wrong with the other clutch pack for the shifter just like on your machine. Sweet now I'm gonna have a good four wheeler again!!!
😅 God Bless You I have one just like it with same problem. You explained repair perfectly I replaced the churches but still won't move I did not know I could recut groves in the other clutch I will give it a try. Thanks so much
Great video..... I have the same problem with my ATV and I'm going to follow your instructions and see if it helps. I'll comment again with the results.
@@rolls3965 Took it all apart but haven't done anything else yet. I ordered a new gasket and primary clutch plates and will wait until they are delivered before cleaning the grooves on the centrifugal clutch. I'll post the results after I'm all done.
Thanks for the video, great explanation and good tips for repairs if you do not want to spend money that does not need to be spent - especially on old bikes that are just for fun rides. Cheers!
Excellent information!!! I got a strange situation going on myself. We bought a used 1998 bayou 300 4x4 1-owner for my daughter. It ran ok after I put stock oem carb on it . But less than 15 min of ride time into ownership the rear prop shaft was chewing up the differentials gear because the rear prop shaft bearing was completely destroyed. This made some load screeching noises an felt like clutch slipping when getting heavy in the throttle . After replacing the differential an prop shaft with good used ones it now will barley move itself you can actually hear the clutch slipping . Oh plus I changed oil prior to riding because owner said it had been 7 years ! I put good wet clutch oil in it . I’m about to inspect clutch I suppose. Also I tried adjusting clutch and it did not work. It almost sounds like something loose inside. Any guesses on what may be issue before I open it up?
Great video. One thing you didn't touch on is the adjusters. I have an 01 Bayou 300 4x4 that all the forums said you only had to adjust the top clutch adjuster. After I got a manual I learned different. I found my lower adjuster feels like it's not on anything, won't tighten in either direction as described. What's your best guess on what I'll find inside? I was going to wait until I got the gasket in, but it's slipping under a load in the upper gears. pulls fine in 1st & 2nd, so I'm cracking it open tomorrow.
I Didn't mess with the adjusters since my shift clutch was fine. They should only be for the shift clutch, which is only activated when you shift. If it's slipping under high load but takes off fine your shift clutch is likely worn out and slipping under heavy load.
Both of my clutches look pretty good. The centrifugal clutch has a few nicks, but not bad at all. I found the lower adjuster moves the cam release piece slightly left, or right. Not sure why yet.
2 questions please,,, When you took the Wet clutch off and Cut the lines in the clutch and reassembled the One way bearing witch way did the one way bearing go back in. mine has a Little Lip on one side about a 1/2 inch long and I'm thinking this Goes Down in the slot of the housing. and the 1996 KLF 300B that I'm working on would not pull at all so I'm just going to replace the clutch that you cut the Lines in. am I on the right track here please inform me if I'm incorrect. the little 11 year old would not change the gears when driving so I think he just burnt the clutch up. but I don't think it is the one with all the rings. I have rewired this Puppy for him and rebuilt Carb and she ran good for about 3 Months but then it stopped Pulling all together. any help would be greatly appreciated and a big thumbs up on your RU-vid Video.
Incredibly helpful, about to do this on my 2003 Bayou 300. Question, what’s the proper torque when I put the nut back on that holds the centrifugal clutch in place? Also: what type and weight oil would you recommend for a quad with these clutch issues?
Not sure about torque. This is rat quad so I just zipped it down with an impact and didn't worry about it. 10w-40 Motorcycle or ATV oil, needs to be rated for wet clutch use.
Use Oil with No Friction Modifiers. This may be what happened to the one I'm working on. I just put regular 10w- 40 Did not Know until I started reading more about this quad.
I got an older yamamaha moto 4, light constantly says neutral when I shift it and get on it the speedometer moves like I’m operating it, but the quad isn’t moving an inch
thank you for info a have a 01 Yamaha wolvine 350and i am haveing clutch problems so i think its kinda the same clutch and i use it to plow snow so its does have a load i noticed it acts up when trying to go at first then now it dont move( it had a oil line brake but shut it off fast) and it dont work right now any good clutches?
My son's Bayou 220 has the opposite problem with the clutch. If you put it in gear it dies. You can rev it up and put it in gear and it will drive but I made him park it until I can get it fixed so it won't further damage the gear box. I'm going to tear it down this weekend. What should I be looking for? Bad one way clutch?
@@roysmith2770 It turns out that the nut holding the clutch on had tightened up to the point it wasn't allowing the clutch to disengage. I removed it and then loctited the nut and let it set up for a couple of days making sure the clutch operated properly before hand. It has worked perfectly ever since.
I have a trx250r and when i go slow i get a gringing sound and feeling coming from somewhere around the front sprocket next to the motor. It doesnt happen when i take off fast
Can you help me out I bought one for like 500 but it doesn't have strength to pull unless I lift it in the air and they muffler is missing screws can that be a reason?
Missing muffler screws won't cause that. If it revs out freely but doesn't move its a clutch issue. If it revs just a little and doesn't move you have a power issue.
I have a Yamaha Wolverine with the same setup. My problem is the engine revs freely in neutral, but when you try to take off from a standstill, it stumbles and hesitates. If I engage the clutch by holding the shifter up with my toe, I can rev the engine, then drop into gear and take off normally. Would that be a clutch or carb problem?
I've been working on one, and it loses power past half throttle? it seems to take off okay, and shifts okay, but once you getting it going it won't go past 20mph, you can push the throttle past half all the way to full and nothing happens? I have no idea what it is, but I've just spent 4 months working on rebuilding the whole front end and part of the rear end as well as a new carb, but can't figure this issue out?
hrmm, don't think its the carb because i bought a new carb, and the old one did the same thing. I thought it might be just the throttle cable? but when I press throttle all the way in it seems to work properly on the carb, although it's really hard to press. I dunno, but I already gave the wheeler back so it's out of my life, hopefully for good, lol. Thanks though, atleast I know its not the clutch.
@@bperley1984 Hey Bob. I know you said you gave the Unit back. but if you ever have that problem again I would look at the choke lever and cable that comes in to the top of the Carb. it has two slots in it and it is real easy to get this Backwards the longer cut grove in the Tube should be the lowest pin of the two on the inside of the Carb and of course if the bent line going into it is broken you will have issues with the Throttle
I’m having same symptoms on my 300 4x4 but I’m getting a clunking noise if I start to go up hill in 2nd gear. Like a pretty bad knocking/clunking. The clunk is there slightly in 1st and second then becomes unnoticeable. Clunk is much less noticeable or perhaps non existent when the bike is in neutral. Is this another issue of a damaged clutch or worse? Help!
No grooves in the drum, for the shoes it's going to vary by how worn they are. You don't want to cut down to the metal, just enough so the oil can be expelled from between the shoe and drum. Shouldn't take much.
Have a 185 bayou have replaced both clutch’s primary and secondary but still getting slip any ideas would it be anything to do with the shaft slippin as it’s shaft driven??
