Worst ATV I Have Ever Seen! - How to Reassemble a Yamaha Blaster Bottom End Step by Step - Part 5 

That’s awesome! glad it helped. It’s one of those things that’s once you know you’ll never miss again.

Glad it helped.

Awesome, I realized I couldn't find many videos on the subject so I'm glad my making this one helped.

Have you looked at your clutch? When I've had hard shifting the clutch basket fingers often have deep grooves worn in them from the clutch friction plate 'ears'. Filing them out smooth really helps. In my latest series rebuilding the Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 I cover doing it as I had to stomp on that one as well.

I think you're referring to about the 31:15 point in the video. In my case I did not have to adjust the nut. If I did I would have turned the nut to shorten/lengthen the rod until the 'arrow' on the clutch arm points straight at the mark on the case. I could have shown that clearer on the video. If you do adjust the nut I would hit it with some loctite so it doesn't work out of spec on you after you assemble the case. You can adjust the nut with the more installed by draining the oil and pulling the clutch side cover. I hope that helps.

@@VermontLife yep thanks man i got it pretty close then adjusted the clutch hand lever just a little works pretty good now

If they spin freely and smoothly you should be fine. When I’ve had bad crank bearings there is usually a ‘sticky’ spot when I try to spin the crank because a bearing is burned out. If it feels ‘Grindy’ I’d swap it.

Can you confirm if you have spark, fuel runs through the carb or if you have compression? I’d start by checking for those three things. Was it running and just died? Shoot me a little more info and I’ll take a stab at offering some thoughts.

Shift fork 2? hmm. You have it installed... For me things would spin to a certain extent. I never tried to spin indefinitely but everything moved smoothly on the gears etc. In my experience I could only get the shift forks to go in one way. 1 and 3 are on one post and 2 is on the short post. I'm working on another blaster motor now so I'll look a little more closely and see about posting that up.

@@VermontLife I figured it out I had it all right but it really helps to spin the gears clockwise while turning the shift drum since everything kinda needs to be moving for any of it to work.

Awesome! I filmed a segment today on the blaster I’m building that I’ll put up on YT in the future for folks.

Are you talking about the snap ring on the dowel that holds the lifter forks in? If so I don't remove that, I build from the other side of the case. If you can give me a time stamp of when I have that snap ring on the video I can confirm.

@@VermontLife We are talking about the same clip. It is shown in 9:04. Do you think if I use a crankcase puller on the case that it will pull the transmission and leave it on the left side crankcase. My blaster has been down for a while now. The only thing that is holding me back is that clip. Thank you for the help.

@@fabiogalindo8982 In my experience the transmission fits in rather loosely and will want to fall out of either side of the case. It's the crank that typically is stuck to one side or the other. The crank being stuck on either side hasn't hurt me putting cases back together. Sometimes everything is on one side and sometimes I have to marry the crank side to the transmission. When I've pulled apart the transmission I've usually been able to wiggle the shift drum/star enough to take pressure off the dowels and be able to pull them out with a pair of vice grips. You mentioned the star was a bit pushed in so that might make it tougher. Also, remove the retention arm for the star on the other side of the case to make your life easier. I have also tapped on the star with a rubber mallet to get things moving to pop out the transmission. I've never had to remove that clip to disassemble or reassemble a case. It just keep the dowel from falling all the way through the case but due to where it sits under the forks I can't get at it. I should also say that I have only ever built transmissions with that dowel clip down in the case. I haven't been able to successfully build the transmission into the other side of the case with the clip up. For whatever reason I can't get the shift forks in when I try. I hope this helps.

@@VermontLife I will see if this works. Thanks for the help!

@@VermontLife Thank You! I just hammered out the shift drum and the rest of the transmission came out. Im not sure why the shift drum was pushed in. But all I need to do now is grind down the welds where the cracks are in the case and reasemble in the left side of the crankcase. This video is also very informational and shows every detail. Thank you very much for the help!

Thanks, there was no stamp or markings on it. Just the crank had wiseco markings.

In hindsight, I totally agree.

Vitos sells them, I just bought one, but haven't put it on yet. Vito's stuff is usually pretty good.