Again your attention to detail is excellent the car is a beauty and your skill level are off the scale thank you for another great video im waiting for the summer hill climbs thank you keep safe .
Looking good. I’d have preheated the brass in the oven to save a bit of time and gas. Actually, that’s what I would have thought about having run out of gas a couple of times.
Traditionally to stop a bonnet rattling they would use a some braid (I think) or at least something which look like an oil lamp wick, someone will know the proper name and a supplier.
It's looking really good and sounds splendid. when The Phoenix pub used to have a vintage car meeting in the summer months and there was a chap that used to turn up in an Austin 7 single seater racer, he got around the lack of charging issue with 2 Everyready rubber torches strapped to the front axles and a rear cycle lamp at the back for the return trip home. Neat solution with the Kubota alternator .
Have you ever seen @paulbrodie braze and solder? He's been a legend in the bicycle frame industry for 50 years and he has numerous videos of tips and tricks when working with brass and aluminum. For a 4 banger, that's a sweet-sounding engine.
Great work as always. I see one major issue with using the temperature switch. You need to get a twin terminal switch as your brass block is insulated by the top hose.
@beenhambracketfactory depending on how the temperature sender is internally wired, there could be an awful situation where it tries to earth through the sender unit causing problems at your temp gauge.
Flux? Didn't look like you had any/enough. The flux also reveals the temperature by watching the melt characteristic. Flux in the joint, most heat on the largest piece, wait until both are dull red and dip your rod in flux too. Once you get the hang of it silver solder (and full brazing if you've got oxy acetyene) is much easier than the TIG which you appear to be pretty good at! Your car is seriously beautiful.
