That’s a great tutorial ! You’re awesome 😎 Thanks for sharing this . I feel confident enough to perform this maintenance task after watching this video . Save myself $100’s of dollars not having to take it to a dealer and pay their hourly rate . A lot easier than on a DRZ400S with the bucket and shim type ! You made this look easy ! Well done 👍
Gee, Thanks man! What a nice comment. Ya, those dealer shop rates are outrageous aren't they? I never go to a dealership unless it's a warranty issue. If I have a hard issue, I hit RU-vid and the forums. It may take me longer but, I can usually figure it out. I had an ABS light on my pickup that gave me hell for a few months but I finally tracked it down. I'm glad I helped you out. For the XT, the exhaust valve on the front of the engine is the hardest due to tight access but with a little persistence and patience, it's very doable. Be sure to view the short video on finding TDC Top Dead Center before doing the adjustment as it clarifies getting both valves to the closed position with the piston at the top of it's compression stroke. I used feeler gauges in the middle of the range so even if a bit too tight or loose it will still be in spec. Happy to help. Ride safe. Craig
Thanks Chester. Glad to help. I’ve had my XT since 2011 and I’ve done all the work. It’s still runs like new. Try to burn non ethanol 91 fuel if possible. If not available, durning winter storage run it dry ( shut off the gas, run until it sounds rough and just before it dies, choke it.)Then drain the tank, burn the gas in your car. Don’t leave ethanol fuel over the winter it will draw water and cause rust in the gas tank. If left in the carb, it will cause the jets to become fouled and the float bowl to gather debris as the fuel degrades. Have fun, safe rides.
It's funny, some bikes will adjust perfectly on the first try, others are temperamental like your XT seems to be. To err on the side of caution, I like to be closer to the large/maximum dimension than the small/minimum feeler gauge dimension, (but always within the stated tolerance). As with anything, the more you do it, the easier it becomes. Also I want to point out that because the camshaft turns once for every two revolutions of the crankshaft, you can be at TDC on the compression OR exhaust stroke. You have to have the piston at TDC on compression for the valves to be completely closed, and therefore in the correct position for adjusting. Easy - peasy, just hold your thumb over the spark plug hole and turn the engine. You will feel when it's on the compression stroke. Then bring your marks into alignment.
Ya. It could be I'm too much of a perfectionist. As long as you are in the middle of the adjustment specification window, I'm sure thats well enough. I have a tee shirt that says "Can't leave well enough alone".
Or use the timing marks like my short video shows. Then you will be on compression TDC every time. The cam gear pointer dot on the arrow indicator on the right side and looking through the viewing hole on the left side, the H mark aligned with the notch. Both of these only occur on compression TDC and, both intake and exhaust rocker arms will be loose.
Or use the timing marks like my short video shows. Then you will be on compression TDC every time. The cam gear pointer dot on the arrow indicator on the right side and looking through the viewing hole on the left side, the H mark aligned with the notch. Both of these only occur on compression TDC and, both intake and exhaust rocker arms will be loose.
You are welcome! I also added a 3-4 minute clarifying how to set the motor to top dead center. And in a day or so I’ll have videos on changing the brake fluid both front and rear, setting chain tension and tire removal both front and rear. I just replaced my tires so I thought I’d do a video on how to remove and replace both ends. Cheers!
Hi.. Did you ever disassemble your ignition lock? I live in a very dusty area and i have mine just over 6 years and its getting hard to operate the lock even if i lubed it up well and tried a new Key.. I wanted to dissassemble it and clean it in the hope it would make it better.. I just dont know how to take it off the bike..
@@marcokauenhowen773 No I haven’t. I’ve not had any issues with it as yet. Most of the time those sorts of switches are riveted together or worse yet, crimped. It should be fairly easy to figure out removing it. But first I would go pick up some Lock-Ease. Or some such lock specific lubricant. Drizzle that in the opening while holding the dust door open with a very small screw driver. Then start working it. If that fails, I’d try taking it off to see if it comes apart. Failing that, replace it but keep the old key for the helmet lock if you still have one on your bike. Good luck. You may need to remove the headlight fairing, headlight and the gas tank to get to the wires and fasteners. It shouldn’t be too tough to figure out.
@@usethenoodle yeah it is kinda riveted together and the problem is the dust door is stuck open for a couple of years now and id didnt help to oil it so it would close up again and loocking from underneath there seems not to be something like a vent where stuf comes out if sprayed with brake clean or other sorts of cleaners or greases... Thank you.. Il figure it out somehow...
I don't have one on my bike. Is your a 2 stroke? I suspect it is. Mine is a 4 stroke. As far as I know, the compression release is an engine brake sort of device. I had one on my 1980 Suzuki PE250 which was a 2 stroke enduro. Is it controlled by a small lever below the clutch lever?
The two motors only vary by fuel injected vs carbureted. The FAR (fuel air ratio) of ~13:1 shouldn't change the valve clearances. But, be sure to consult the model year service (not owners) manual regarding the exact specs. You can purchase a factory service manual as a download from several online sources for around $21.00. The owners manual probably won't tell you the clearances as the real money isn't in selling the bike, its getting you to bring it to them for maintenance and repairs at sometimes the ridiculous rate of $160 per hour and selling you parts at a 300% markup.
@@usethenoodle Thanks so much for your reply. I subscribed to cyclepedia and it has what I needed plus step by step pictures. Last weekend I checked my valve clearance and they were spot on. I had a feeling they were before I started. I wouldn't doubt if the whole 600 mile valve clearance check wasn't something the manufacturers and dealers came up with just to screw the customers. If I would've brought it to the dealership they probably would've just pushed it in the back until I returned to pay them for doing nothing. My father bought a used 2013 PCX150 two years ago from the dealership and gave it to me after putting only 100 miles on it. The dealer claimed it was fully serviced but the $5 air filter was original.
@@not1au You’re welcome. I agree a ton of the stuff on the service schedules is basically “Inspect” and I highly doubt they actually inspect all those items and carry out all the listed service items. The charges are ridiculous like $700 plus for the “5000 mile service” or whatever. Mainly as long as your bike gets stored inside, kept clean, keep an eye on the schedule items and do them, fix the broken stuff correctly and do the oil regularly, your bike will go the distance.
@@not1au I worked at a Honda - Kawasaki dealership about 40 years ago. We NEVER skipped any of the maintenance tasks on any bikes brought in for service. There are some unscrupulous places, I will admit. Last fall (2021) I bought a CRF250L, went on line and purchased a Cyclepedia workshop manual for it. It's a really well written manual. The only thing I didn't care for is the table of contents. I made an excel spreadsheet and organized my own table in what seemed more logical to me.
Just a word of advice whenever I do follow check on any of my bikes I always take a pencil or something and stick it down in the spark plug to make sure I'm at top dead center because it won't go down very far if it goes down then you know you're in the wrong marks
Good idea in most cases. It won't work on the XT though. The spark plug hole isn't over the piston. It's way off to the side. :0) I tried it. But on a lot of engines, the old pencil down the spark plug hole tricks works fine. I suspect the placement of the hole toward the side is to allow spark plug changes without having to remove the tank. On this bike, you have to use the timing marks. Look at my video short on setting to TDC. Thanks for the input though!
