I'd use an XT60 on that 6S battery without even thinking about it. While you might pull 90A on a 6S quad (or 4s even), you won't pull it for anywhere near long enough to melt the connector, or even for it to get warm. If you pulled 90A continuous from a 1300mah battery, it would be empty (completely empty as in dead) in about 50 seconds. That would also be a 69C discharge, and no lipo can deliver that, no matter what's printed on the label.
Even if it doesnt melt, wouldnt any heat produced be wasted energy? Why not get that power to the motors instead of wasting it on heating up the connector? Btw im new still. Im not speaking from experience, just what seems logical to me. Just trying to wrap my head around this. Ive got a 3" quad with a 28amp esc, 1407 3600kv motors and im running 4s 80c 850mah batteries with a xt30 connector. Part of me thinks I need an xt60 but I cant decide now. Its only a 3" quad so if its truly meaningless id rather save a couple grams with the xt30. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
With a properly connected and soldered XT60 being able to take up to 180A for quite a few seconds, with its weight being minimal, its size being ergonomic and its compatibility with most modern chargers being 100%, it's no wonder most people consider nothing else for both their drones and their small & middle-sized surface RCs... I use XT60s on pretty much everything, never had a problem...
Isn't it all about Ampere? Cell count affects only the voltage. XT 30 => 30 Amps XT 60 => 60 Amps XT 90 => 90 Amps This is what i used for my calculations and continous load.
Almost forgot, the other bonus to running an xt60 on all your stuff is you can plug a horizon hobbies ec3 (e-flite etc) battery into an xt60 esc connector in a pinch
i have a 5in armattan marotte running Hawksky 2207- 2600kv motors on 4s- 1800mah Venom lipos with XT60 conectors and i melt or weld a set together about once a weeek and i run Amass XT60's a lost of quads today are to much for the XT60. thats why im here looking for something that will hold up !
Thanks a lot... I have a FPV getting dirt because of the LiPo battery I didn't understand... just bought the famous balance charger and only comes with xt60 lol
If you can't see the flat side of the connector and force plug it in in reverse then you can't possibly see and control your aircraft LOS. BTW I use ALL the same type of connects on my Aircraft and Batteries. If the connectors on the batteries I buy are not the same as what I use, I change them. Then I have a common battery connector for my chargers.
A bit of information - bigger battery doesn't mean your amps are necessarily going up at the same scale. Power equals voltage * current (P = VI) so if you double either, you're doubling your power. Double both and you have 4x power. If someone tells you their quad, or whatever RC vehicle, pulls whatever amount of amps that's not the full story if they also haven't told you the voltage (which is implied if you know 4s, 5s, or 6s). My 6s RC heli with 480mm blades might pull 120A, but it's not the same if aheli with 7000mm blades pulls 120A. The latter is certainly a 12s setup so certainly is demanding more than double the power.
Just because you go from three cells to six cells does it mean you are drawing more current. Just means more voltage and in that case double the voltage so you don’t need an XT 90 just because you have a 6 cell. The reason you see six cell batteries often times with an XT 90 it’s because they are really large batteries for eight scale and bigger which does mean they drawl a lot of current. I do realize that little racing quads can draw a lot of current in a burst situation.
On the xt30s, be careful mixing connectors from different sources. I bough a bunch of xt30s from hobbyking which have the TGY label on them and have had really good luck with them. I bought some more from progressiverc and they were so tight, I still have a set I cannot seperate. You can use needlenose pliers and squish the male pins together and this worked well for the ones from progressiverc as long as both connectors were from progressiverc but they fit VERY loosely into the TGY connectors. My recommendation is the TGY xt30s from Hobbyking
So your 6S batteries will have the same amperage as your 1S batteries. The larger connectors are only needed with higher amperages and amperage only scales when cells are in parallel. That 6S1P battery you were using to demonstrate with won't produce any more amps than a 1S1P. Now, if you were doing a 1S6P battery, that connector upgrade would be VERY important.
What the hell? 20awg max for XT30? You have no idea what you are talking. XT 30s will fit 16Awg, and it fits well. If you wanna pull 30 amps you should probably use 18 gauge atleast. Not needed for burst loads, but very good for efficency.
i have a 5in armattan marotte running Hawksky 2207- 2600kv motors on 4s- 1800mah Venom lipos with XT60 conectors and i melt or weld a set together about once a weeek and i run Amass XT60's a lost of quads today are to much for the XT60. thats why im here looking for something that will hold up !
XT-30 fail at my house. My daughter plugged the battery in backwards and fried the ESC. It desoldered almost everything on the ESC including the power leads. Yes it really does plug in backwards that easy. It sucks because she still has yet to fly the new micro. New ESC is ordered though. So gonna do the Sharpe trick you did here. Thanks
Doesn't matter how many cells you have. A 3s 1300 and a 6s 1300 are both still 1300 milliamp batteries. The voltage doubles with the 6 cell, but the current stays the same.
That's just not the case at all. The 1300 you're talking about, if you mean the 1300 written on a pack. That's not current, that milliamps per hour. It's a measure of the capacity of the battery, it can deliver 1.3amps for an hour. The current is determined by the motor and props used and how much current the battery can deliver. (lipo) Batteries have a C rating. If it's a 50C battery and the cell is 1300mah, then the battery can be discharged at upto 65amps. Motors have a Kv rating, which is the speed the motor will spin per volt. So a higher voltage would make the motor spin faster. Depending on the motor/prop combination this may result in much higher current. I think I covered everything...
It's actually not miliamps per hour, it's miliampere hour. To be specific it's the amount of miliamps it can supply continuously for 1 hour. It measures electrical charge capacity. In theory (a perfect world), if you double the time you would be able to supply half the miliamps continously over that period. Or if you half the time you could double the miliamps it could continuously supply. In the real world. If you doubled the current you would get less than half the time, though.
all the people that say you can put them in wrong and so on then lets put it this way if you cant tell the difference between black n red positive an negative ect then think they have a problem
We actually need an XT15 (7.5 amps) and XT45 (22.5 amps) connector !! There are drones that have 20 amp ESCs for which an XT45 would be ideal as XT30 is too small and XT60 is too big and heavy. Then we very often have drones with 5 amp ESCs, here an XT15 connector would be ideal.
can i put a xt60 on my led cables? the cables are onyl 0,09mm2 thick, wheni hold the cable inside they look kind of lost i didnt soldered yet want to make sure its working... it should work right?
It could work. The main point would be to make sure they aren't able to bend too much and break loose. You wouldn't want either wire flopping around inside a quad.
can i use this connectors on a bike? i would like to use on my bike alternator which is 12v and 5a and in the ignition coil, they will melt if i use them on this situation?
Would it hurt to use the xt90 with just 2-3s? I’m getting an arrma outcast soon and it uses xt90 connectors so I was just gonna convert all my batteries and my vxl slash to xt90 but I don’t run anything higher than 3s in the slash vxl
Fuck it...i got three xt90 with the screw holes and rubber lid bembrane...im just going to order 2 of the other two...oh well what kinda person only gets one kind anyways...gotta get them all
It's funny, nobody seems the know the exact max amps that a XT90 can handle... I have a 16,000 mAh 4s 10c lipo, and it came with a XT90. The max amp output for the battery is 160. Some people are saying the XT90 can handle only 90 amps and others say it can handle 160 amps. Can some brave soul please straighten this out for me? I'm losing sleep over this lol.
That is because the max amps correlates to time, 60 amps continuously is the safe rating with some amount of safety factor above it. But max amps in electrical world depends on application. So for example it could be 1800 amps for .01 seconds and be fine or 250 amps for 3 seconds and still be fine, because the heat buildup hasn't occurred yet. Heat(resistance) is your enemy with prolonging any connector. Surface area, tightness, shell material, and contact plating are all key to a reliable connector
not sure why go to an xt90 for more cells... by simple ohms and power laws.... higher the voltage, the lower amperage for the same wattage motor... so honestly a higher cell the smaller connector that would be needed...... in the end all that matters is the surface area of the contact surfaces... more contact surface, lower resistance, lower power wasted in the connection.
honestly hk is right, they designed the xt connectors, so anything you get from sources other than hk isn't a genuine xt. most places making the xt's do them to same spec as hk so it's really not an issue, I've ordered xt60's that ended up being an off color, like an un ripe banana, the big deal is making sure they list high temp nylon as the plug material. As for whats better an xt60 or a deans, xt60 hands down, they don't get anywhere near as hot, they don't get loose and unplug randomly. much better connector than just about anything else on the market currently, traxxas plugs suck to solder, same with ec type horizon plugs which also have the problem of not being reusable, and deans have vastly varying levels of quality with very little resistance to getting hot and twisting connectors which lowers connection area and ups heat, you won't beat a circular connector for durability or current capacity.
