Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard motor, 50 hp, How to remove the Lower Unit for water pump impeller access. 

That was just about the best comment I have ever received. I'd like to catch up with you later this summer. I'll send you a message in a couple weeks when things are caught up around here.

I think it is a Strongarm. Great Unit.

Hi Harold, Unfortunately without seeing the motor in person there is no way I can advise. It could be simply some carbon from the exhaust tube being washed out, could be signs of unburned fuel caused by an overly rich mixture, could be oil carbon from damaged rings or valve guides or who knows what else. If it is a concern I advise you take it to an experienced marine mechanic to inspect it. Thanks for watching.

You do not need to disconnect the battery, but it is recommended in case you turn the propeller while the engine is in gear and the ignition is on in case the engine starts.

@@CanadaWideMarine thank you so much ❤️

That speedometer nipple is connected directly to a very small hole in the front of the drive to pick up water pressure only. It is not connected to gear oil in any way. First I would want to identify if it is engine oil or gear oil. you can usually tell by the smell if there is enough of it. You could also check the lower unit gear lube for water. Usually if gear oil is coming out, water is getting in. Remove the bottom drain plug and see if there is water there. May as well change your gear lube while you are there. If you did a gear lube change, and/or an engine oil change, is it possibly just residue from small spilled oil, say from the oil filter?

Do you happen to have a F40 TLRA? I have an 02 and I can't drop the lower unit. Seems this model has not just the speedometer tube to disconnect, but also the shift linkage??? Did you find that? Thanks.

@@jessicablack2138 the shift linkage connect was just a spine shaft looked like about 10 mm that just slid into the female shift linkage it was a little bit tricky, lining both things up. If you’re doing the job by yourself, you can use a ratchet strap wrapped from the top of the engine, holding the foot suspended, allowing you to line up everything.

@@jessicablack2138 I think they’re pretty much the same all of the 40 horse. Mine was a LEHA which just means it’s got a tiller handle.

@@jessicablack2138 make sure you’ve got the bolt underneath the corrosion plate . That’s the only one that’s hidden I know because I thought by pulling the corrosion tab I was releasing the last bolt . I think it’s a 12 mm the rest I believe are 14. But still use the ratchet strap so when you bump it with a rubber mallet, your foot doesn’t fall if you don’t have someone to help you.

Yes, they are all very similar.

Order the PDF for that year and model I did for my 40 LEHA and it is extremely descriptive and it will help you get that lower unit free

@@shannonfishkill8957 it's free! I find videos more helpful than a PDF. The diagrams are a bit overwhelming. Oddly enough there was what looked like one of the arms of an impeller in the housing, yet mine is intact. Also the top of the housing where the drive shaft goes through looks chewed up so I am ordering a new housing.

@@jessicablack2138 that’s awesome. I’m glad you got it freed up. If you want to check the seals while you have it broken down you can use one of those adapters from a lower gear unit fill kit and attach it to one of those Mityvac type vacuum pressure test or you can hook it up to a bicycle pump with a gauge pump it to about 10 psi spray a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water. Leave it sit for 10 minutes the pressure should not drop very much a pound or two but if you do have a leaking seal it will make a bubble showing you if it’s the shifter seal or if it’s the main drive, shaft, seal, or prop seal. I mentioning this because he said there was. A bit of debris. Make sure you clean that out really good use of shop vac, toothbrush and dawn dishwashing liquid I think there’s actually two seals in each of the uppers there’s an upper and lower shift seal and an upper and lower shaft seal. You usually have to use a slide hammer, but you can use a piece of angle stock with all the holes in it like people use for shelving and use a drywall screw to punch through the seal just don’t go deep just one or two threads by using that piece of angle you can tap it with a hammer getting the same affect as using a slide hammer just be gentle as soon as it moves switch sides so you’re not pulling from just one side making it want to jam use to one and a half inch sheet rock screws you can get all the seals out without having to buy special tools. Just cut that angle into two pieces. That way you can apply pressure evenly from the two screws simultaneously a few taps on each side and the seal will start coming out. I had to do this because my gear oil looked like it may have gotten water in it. While you’re doing this maintenance make sure you pull your prop clean out all fishing line and clean the seal surface again just dishwashing liquid and water. Don’t use any harsh chemicals.. no when it comes to things being more helpful the PDF we did have to purchase it wasn’t that bad it was 10 bucks but they going to great detail on a lot of things especially when you’re talking about your fuel system and the VST tank and it’s confusing number of hoses. It also gives torque specs for everything. Are you also changing your sacrificial anode‘s on your 40 horse on the intermediate and lower unit? There are two on the foot three on the intermediate, and you also have sacrificial anode’s that need to be replaced on your cylinder walls. The anode’s under the cowling are the ones that are rarely changed along with the thermostat. You definitely need to change those. If I’m not mistaken, there about seven or eight dollars each. There’s also a sacrificial anode on your tilt and trim hinge at the very bottom of the hydraulic piston without the PDF. I would’ve never known it was there because you can’t see it unless you were laying down under the boat it’s only attached with a Phillips head screw which I think is kind of bullshit so if I’m not mistaken, I believe there are seven or eight sacrificial anode’s also, there are in-line fuel filters, one between the main one on the back that you can visibly see and that goes without saying because it’s obviously there but if you follow the line to the VST you will find another within the fuel line itself. Just make sure you check different websites that sell genuine Yamaha parts because I had to toggle between two different websites writing down the part numbers for all the things that I would need because both companies carried everything but some of them did not show part numbers or that they were even available instead trying to sell an entire kit rather than an O-ring but if you got the part number from the other site entered it in a parts search I found the part on the cheaper website. I know it was a little bit of a pain in the ass why it wasn’t even listed as part that you could buy on the schematic microfiche. Definitely get the PDF the maintenance alone that you’re supposed to routinely do that honestly when you take it into a dealer to have this routine maintenance done, they rarely ever change the sacrificial anode’s on the cylinder, heads . I think the reason for this is it routinely changed every couple of years they are not hard to get out, but they can build a lot of scale inside the cooling chambers, and you would never know if you did not pull those sacrificial anode’s, which would ensure the shop would get your outboard overheating, if you run and salt water like I do all the time, use some salt, buster or lime away, put a bucket under the foot to catch the rid lime(that’s dollar tree brand) it’s much cheaper to buy 10 of those rather than go buy a gallon of Salt buster I think that shits around 30 bucks but hook up a bilge pump put it in the bottom of the bucket under the foot and have the hose running into the thermostat hole and then switch it over to the anode hole, closing the thermostat back up and have it just circulate through your system. You would be shocked at the amount of sand little pieces of shells and just general scale and dirt. You can also use radiator citric flush you can get that at AutoZone. It comes in a powder and you just mix it in with a few gallons of water . Helpful tip put the bilge pump inside of one of your old socks so scale and debris are not re-introduced into your cooling system, but it will clean out the scaling that has been building up all around your cooling chambers which will save a shit load of work or even your motor itself with this preventative maintenance. The way we would do mine as we would just hook it up (the cheap bilge pump, )to the trolling motor battery. let it run for a few hours, then flush it thoroughly with fresh water, put in new anodes and thermostat along with new fuel filters. Sorry I know I’ve been a little long-winded definitely get the PDF for your particular motor. It really is a very good investment as it is a very in detail Yamaha shop repair manual it is step-by-step. You could rebuild the entire motor using that book and do it better than the shop because they won’t really give a shit when it comes to torque specs except on crucial things like head bolts..

@@shannonfishkill8957 was there supposed to be sorta dark oil covering the drive shaft or would that inply a bad seal somewhere?

Also, make sure you put grease on the spot lines of both shift and main shaft. It is crucial also try to clean up where the shifter spline went inside the tube, because there may be a little hardened debris. That’s probably what made it stick in there. .. but definitely grease those two when reassembling also take a wire brush to all of the bolts that you took out to remove the foot and clean up the powdery residue left inside the intermediate holes spray some WD-40, and then run the boat in and back out a couple of times cleaning them and that way they won’t be hard for you to get next time and they won’t strip out . OK I think that’s it. I’ll leave you alone.😂

Yes, sorry about that Chuck. I have a new microphone coming for future videos. I am new to making videos and have a lot to learn yet. Thanks for the feedback.