#yamahaboats #anodes #jetboat Sacrificial Anodes are an important part to all boats, including Yamaha Boats. In this quick video learn the differences between anodes and what is right for your vessel.
Ahoy there Captain. Thanks for that. Im am right now attempting this on my 2017 FX Waverunner. I think it’s actually harder than on your boat. After a couple hours I have just got the holding bolt out. Can only use a open ender spanner, one flat at a time then spin it around 180 do another one flat etc after 4 I have to take a break because it’s so awkward. Can just get 2 fingers on it but can’t move my fingers so back to one flat turns with rests. Anyway bolts out and just started trying to turn the other bolt to hopefully break the bond of any corrosion on the anode and make removing easier but can’t get anything well seated on the anode bolt as it’s recessed in and don’t want to damage the flats. All tools are tied with string in case they drop. That’s when I came looking for a video for some moral encouragement and I find the Captain just about ready to commit hurry curry. I’m hoping that is the only one internal like that. Do you know. My Yamaha outboard has 5 internal cooling system anodes. One doesn’t seem enough. I can get a ratchet bit on the anode bolt but can’t get the lever part on it. Can’t even get vice grips on the bit, to big to fit in. Trying to loosen the anode now. Cheers
As you know, I watch all your videos and you are a great influence on the good and bad do it yourself maintenance. Based on this video, I will NOT attempt the engine anode as I have a 212… I will leave it up to the dealership for this one… Thanks again and keep them coming!
Thank you Kevin...lol. Perhaps if changed with greater frequency it would not be so difficult to remove, or if you have longer arms than me...lol. Thanks for watching!
Hi again. Once more, Great video. Just be glad it is not as hard as the Yamaha outboard engines, those you need to remove the engine valve cover to reach two hidden anodes in there. Any way here a tip for next time: Once you remove the screw securing the anode in place, with a 10mm socket and wrench, loosen the anode by turning clockwise on the center screw securing the anode element. The entire assembly should turn loose. On another note and as a suggestion, can you make a video on the features and operation of the GPS System found on Capt Ken's new Yamaha 252SE? I am on the market for that boat, and no one has made a video on that subject.
@ja_everything I must admit that I rely on my Navionics app on my phone over the Yamaha system. I would like to do the video so that I could actually use it more!
I recently just learned about this engine anode and low and behold, of course you would have a video on it! haha. Great video, although after watching your video, this may be the hardest thing to date. I have a 2013 ar190 with 260 hrs on it. I have never changed this internal anode. Up to this point I have pretty much done all the same maintenance myself that you have done to your boat (impeller replacement, wear ring replacement, trailer leaf springs, etc) so I am just as handy as you are and confident that I can do this myself, but I am not looking forward to it lol
Well, I won't lie, it wasn't easy. But you can do it if you have done all those other joyous tasks. Just go real slow. If you can get the mounting bolt to loosen without snapping it, then the rest is just patience. Reach out if you have any questions and schedule it for the end of season incase you run into a problem.
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore that's a good idea. Perhaps I'll wait till end of the season to do it. I'd hate to run into a problem and delay my season that's just begun here in NY. I just worry that the anode is completely destroyed. It's a 11 year old boat. I've always flushed afterwards but even with that I'm sure the anode isn't in good shape being as old as it is
@@prosurfer92 can't hurt to see if you can loosen the mounting bolt now, then snug it back up, one less thing to worry about when you do decide to begin the job.
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore I just replaced mine today. To my surprise it was super easy for me to get the mounting bolt out. Once I got the bolt out I was able to pry the anode out in about a minute using a flathead screwdriver. Once I got it out I did have a lot of corrosion inside just like you did. I used a small flathead screwdriver that I bent to a 90 degree angle to scrape it all off. After about 30 mins of scraping and cleaning it out, the new anode fit right in. Definitely wasn't as difficult as yours seemed to be in your video. It's crazy though, my old anode was in just as bad of shape as yours if not worse. 11 years old!
I am so thankful that youn have this video! Could't find no other video to specific where the adnose in my 2014 sx192. Now i know❤ btw this is 2 bolts what is the size of these bolts? Do i need to loose both of bolts to take the adnose out? TIA
I love the frustration! All worth it when you get it done and think F Yeah, I just saved money. Go in the house and wife is angry you’ve been “playing” on the boat all day! 😂😂😂
Hi captain, when starting my yamaha ar190 second season. I habe no crank but clicking repeatly from starter selonoid. My battery is charge up at 12.8 volts . What do you think is the case here ?
Are you worried that parts of the anode went into the cooling passages? I'm assuming that's where this is correct? Above the head and side of the cooling?
Yes, I am worried about that. I very carefully scraped and vacuumed out the area best I could. Took it out a few times and water seems to be flowing everywhere as it should. Poor design in my opinion all around. Great observation!
Hey Charles, I think around 325 hours. In retrospect, I should have changed it sooner. My friend @boatingpropless is dealing with the problem of replacing it right now.
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore yeah not sure about the older models but the new ones recommend checking every 200 hours, at the low cost and with the hassle of removing it makes sense just to replace it every 200 hours. I know the exterior one is check every 12 months which makes sense because even without the engine running it’s still sitting in the water where as the engine one is only really exposed when the engine is running and water is flowing through
