Hey Captain Leon. This video is awesome, thank you and nice work... I have a 2015 212X with a dual axle trailer and would like to do the same. Do you have any knowledge or guidance on how things are different there? Seems i'd need a different hub assembly that includes a rotor?
Thanks Roland. It would definitely be different. I would contact the Shorelandr Trailer company to get the exact specs on what you would need. Good luck with it. I'm sure with the right parts the job will go easy.
If I can clarify: let out the front anchor, back in, put out the back anchor on the beach? I almost had my rental boat stuck on shore on Lake Powell because I had no idea how to beach the boat. I thought I just pull on up and back out when ready lol
Yes sir, that's my approach. Let out front anchor, back in to beach. Rear anchor on beach to keep vessel straight. Now if it's an outboard you may want to pull in bow first, up to you. Thanks for watching.
Just FYI, if you have a PC or laptop, the Active Captain website also has Navionics charts (Garmin also owns Active Captain), just choose MAP from the home screen. I don't know if they have all of the functionality of the app, however.
Nice video, how are the registration numbers holding up? Have any fell off? Did any fade? Also if one number of letter falls off and is gone, are you able to order just one number/letter replacement?
All good questions David. The letters still look brand new, they are holding up great. No fading at all and they are not going anywhere. Check with Jetboat pilot about the ability to order just one letter.
I'm sure you can. Just take it slow and watch my follow up video where I learned a few things with the passage of time. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sgQvRjvSiWw.htmlsi=nuxR_itHjYxcNW8m
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore your welcome Only reason I recommend is I live in the northeast and spray my 98 truck every fall before the winter snows and salt is spread on the roads and my truck has 0 rust underneath it works so much better than paying a garage to undercoat which eventually will peel off
Your ebay link doesnt work anymore and the only option is Yamaha part# F2J-U783E-20-00. Do you have an updated link to the part like the one you originally had posted here?
This is different than what Yamaha is putting out now..Keep in mind these boats are well under 100k fully equipped and Yamaha dealerships are all over the place for maintenance. Of course it’s not going to stack up to lots of center console’s on the market at double the price. They are good boats for what they are and the 222 FSH is under 70k fully equipped. The 2023-24’ FSH sport e are a big improvement from this
I hear ya Matt. Everything you say is true, for what you pay compared to what you get, it's not a bad deal. Most of the imperfections however are not costly to improve upon, they just need to put a little more love into their work on the assembly line.
Ahoy there Captain. Thanks for that. Im am right now attempting this on my 2017 FX Waverunner. I think it’s actually harder than on your boat. After a couple hours I have just got the holding bolt out. Can only use a open ender spanner, one flat at a time then spin it around 180 do another one flat etc after 4 I have to take a break because it’s so awkward. Can just get 2 fingers on it but can’t move my fingers so back to one flat turns with rests. Anyway bolts out and just started trying to turn the other bolt to hopefully break the bond of any corrosion on the anode and make removing easier but can’t get anything well seated on the anode bolt as it’s recessed in and don’t want to damage the flats. All tools are tied with string in case they drop. That’s when I came looking for a video for some moral encouragement and I find the Captain just about ready to commit hurry curry. I’m hoping that is the only one internal like that. Do you know. My Yamaha outboard has 5 internal cooling system anodes. One doesn’t seem enough. I can get a ratchet bit on the anode bolt but can’t get the lever part on it. Can’t even get vice grips on the bit, to big to fit in. Trying to loosen the anode now. Cheers
People don't realize how important grease and/or replacing your hubs is. I've had bearings explode on the road and it's terrifying. Once those bearings blow up and that spindle gets red hot it doesn't take much to sheer that pin and back the castle nut off. Having a tire (with hub attached) go flying off on the highway, will def clench your butt cheeks a bit. Takes an hour to replace both sides. If you have a trailer from '99, just replace the hubs and Lube them up like it's 4am on prom night
Cap, Ever consider doing a service video on lubricating the steering cable from thrust nozzle to helm wheel? Mine is dry and tight so I have Prep. It now. Didn't catch this at summer prep.
Hey Greg, mine always feels stiff and is sometimes stuck in place when the winter covers come off. I slowly have to work it back and forth. I spray some CRC Marine 6-56 on the parts of the cable I can see which is at the jet pump and under the console behind the steering wheel, turning it as I go. I'm not sure what else could be done short of replacing it.
@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore Consider this, Disconnect the steering arm from the stern jet nozzle. Remove the fittings from the arm and remove the plastic seal.Where the arm penetrates the larger size tubing. Hook up a clear vinyl hose and pump in some Gear oil with a light duty compressor and it'll fill the tubing all the way back to the helm. Steering is much easier now.And this preserves the steering arms life.
My first mate is at helm turning the wheel left and right as the oil in the hose enters the tube. The wheel should be noticeable easier to turn. When it is easier I shut down the compressor.. Reassemble and reconnect to the jet nozzle.
Hello ipg, yeah it appears since the making of the video they have made some changes, I didn't think it was $50 per year, heard it was much less. That's not good.
Thanks Jay. The bolts on the brackets did come with lock washers and the nuts on the pivot bolts did come with locknuts. It's not going anywhere, especially as the rust sets in.
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore you inspired me to do my engine anodes BTW..twin engine lol .. I used some barnicle buster on rag let soak and started engines with anode out water pours not shoot out nicely and rinses all debris out into bilge area . I am now considering flushing with this stuff although it's very expensive as a once year treatment..check it out barnicle buster it's called recommended by someone at marina ..they flush outboards with it in a pool troff for 1 hr and solution turns nasty..it's mild acid claims to disolve lime , scale and corrosion . My plan is to pump in as would rv antifreeze let sit soak for 12 hours as we cannot do it like outboard guys can .
I recently just learned about this engine anode and low and behold, of course you would have a video on it! haha. Great video, although after watching your video, this may be the hardest thing to date. I have a 2013 ar190 with 260 hrs on it. I have never changed this internal anode. Up to this point I have pretty much done all the same maintenance myself that you have done to your boat (impeller replacement, wear ring replacement, trailer leaf springs, etc) so I am just as handy as you are and confident that I can do this myself, but I am not looking forward to it lol
Well, I won't lie, it wasn't easy. But you can do it if you have done all those other joyous tasks. Just go real slow. If you can get the mounting bolt to loosen without snapping it, then the rest is just patience. Reach out if you have any questions and schedule it for the end of season incase you run into a problem.
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore that's a good idea. Perhaps I'll wait till end of the season to do it. I'd hate to run into a problem and delay my season that's just begun here in NY. I just worry that the anode is completely destroyed. It's a 11 year old boat. I've always flushed afterwards but even with that I'm sure the anode isn't in good shape being as old as it is
@@prosurfer92 can't hurt to see if you can loosen the mounting bolt now, then snug it back up, one less thing to worry about when you do decide to begin the job.
@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore I just replaced mine today. To my surprise it was super easy for me to get the mounting bolt out. Once I got the bolt out I was able to pry the anode out in about a minute using a flathead screwdriver. Once I got it out I did have a lot of corrosion inside just like you did. I used a small flathead screwdriver that I bent to a 90 degree angle to scrape it all off. After about 30 mins of scraping and cleaning it out, the new anode fit right in. Definitely wasn't as difficult as yours seemed to be in your video. It's crazy though, my old anode was in just as bad of shape as yours if not worse. 11 years old!
Great video once again. I did my leaf springs last year on my trailer, they were in really bad shape just like yours were in your leaf spring video. I think I am going to replace the bunk hardware on my trailer next, just as you did here. I honestly think I can get another few seasons out of them, but I'd rather be safe than sorry...
Hey Jeff. For me the problem was getting the little guides out of the old housing. Not sure why they would be stiff going into the new. They only go in halfway obviously as the other half fits into the housing remaining on the boat. Try a little emory cloth and grease perhaps and tap it with a light hammer and block of wood. Good luck.
Captain Leon, you have gone from entertaining videos (remember the how much can I fit in my boat video?) to super informative videos. This is one of your best videos. Thanks for all the details. Keep 'em coming!
Thank you Rick, I appreciate the compliments. Knowing that I'm helping folks is certainly part of the motivation to keep making these videos. Be well my friend!
Hi captain, when starting my yamaha ar190 second season. I habe no crank but clicking repeatly from starter selonoid. My battery is charge up at 12.8 volts . What do you think is the case here ?
Thanks, I have these blue bearing buddies on my boat trailer, and I greased them for the first time today. I didn't know what they were. Now I do. I'll have to add more grease to one of them. It didn't come out like the other 3 did. Cheers!
Captain Leon out of topic on your post, not know how to directly email you. I subscribe to your channel and reality appreciate your help through your videos. I have same model 2013 SX190, recently I’ve seen random, intermittent, not consistent oil leak on the bilge, I did tape a paper towel to find out where it’s coming from, initially thoughts could be from bolts, I also read someone post that could be on the oil cooler right where oil filter attached. I have telescopic video camera but still can’t pinpoint leak. Just want to know if you’ve seen same, or is it something I should be worried about, oil leak does not impact the oil I see on dip stick so far, but will keep an eye on this. Appreciate your help.
Hey Edgar, I have not experienced this. The only thing you could do is keep wiping everywhere with a paper towel to see if you can find where it's coming from. Any chance it's weeping from the bottom of the oil filter? Watch this video from "Boating Propless" it may shed some light on some possibilities: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xSPrmd_oe2M.htmlsi=432co72T96HPNvcp
I’ve got a different trailer and hub but I think my old hub is missing parts. The washer behind the lock nut is not even on there and the new hub I bought the outer bearing is flush with the hub but other then that it looks the same as the old 1 . I’m getting aggravated lol
Justin, check with the trailer manufacture to make sure that what you have is right. You don't want to mess around with wrong parts in this important area. Good luck!
Hi Captain, I replaced the spark plugs today and wasn’t sure if I should be concerned about something. Two of my plugs didn’t really require any turning with the ratchet past hand tight. The other two did much like how you illustrated in the video. Any thoughts? I remember them all turning equally and needing the ratchet in years past. Thank you, Jeff
Hey Jeff, the plugs when new have a compression washer on them. Once contact is made while hand screwing in you should thereafter be able to tighten more with a ratchet which you will feel some resistance but not too much as the compression washer flattens out. It only compresses once so if you remove and replace that plug you won't feel the same thing again. The plugs should be tightened to only 18.4ft. lbs. of torque. If you don't have one, pick up a small torque wrench. Hope that helps.
Prices vary by size and they occasionally have a sale: www.westmarine.com/c-e-smith-trailer-hub-kits-P017_513_005_004.html?queryID=76e605e1b3406c99c67d7f0bed41865e&objectID=368441&indexName=production_na01_westmarine_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US
Fantastic video!!! I do have a question. Do you think it would be beneficial to spray paint on some kind of a rust inhibitor like rust reformer from Rustoleum on the springs and hardware or even hub assemblies when putting on new parts? I boat mainly in salt water and know first hand what salt water can do. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks for all the great videos!!!
Hey Miah, so I thought about that and decided to just leave it be. If these new parts last the same ten years as the original ones did, then I’m good, by then I would probably replace the trailer as the cross members would be rusted even more so and they can’t be replaced. Thanks for the compliments!
Hi again Capt! Here a suggestion for next time you need to install something that has to be leveled. Place a level in the boats waterline, and with someones help lower or raise the boat with the tongue jack until the boat's water line is level. Once leveled, you can use the level inside the boat to mark and install anything you want to be leveled when the boat is in the water. Hope this is usefull for future projects!!!! Take care and see you in the water!!!!!
Hi again. Once more, Great video. Just be glad it is not as hard as the Yamaha outboard engines, those you need to remove the engine valve cover to reach two hidden anodes in there. Any way here a tip for next time: Once you remove the screw securing the anode in place, with a 10mm socket and wrench, loosen the anode by turning clockwise on the center screw securing the anode element. The entire assembly should turn loose. On another note and as a suggestion, can you make a video on the features and operation of the GPS System found on Capt Ken's new Yamaha 252SE? I am on the market for that boat, and no one has made a video on that subject.
@ja_everything I must admit that I rely on my Navionics app on my phone over the Yamaha system. I would like to do the video so that I could actually use it more!
