Yamaha Jet Boat - Preparing for Summer 

Thank Kris, appreciate you watching. Happy boating to you too!

Great to hear Zaro and always happy to help. Congratulations on your boat! While boating requires being responsible and safe, it comes with great pleasure. As soon as you float away from the dock, you're on vacation! Subscribe to my channel on check out dozens of Yamaha related videos that you will enjoy.

Glad to help, enjoy your boat, my 2014 is purring along like it's brand new. Safe boating.

Thanks 👍

Glad to hear it JC, your comments make the work and effort of making these videos worth it for me. I love my SX190 and keeping it in tip top shape is part of the fun. Be well and safe boating!

Thanks Marcus. After just cleaning up the seats and carpet I stood back and realized that it still looks like new, even though its now in its 7th season. All good! Thanks.

Excellent, congrats! How many hours does it have?

Thank you Cato, I appreciate you watching. I try to balance entertainment with education. Have a great one!

Glad to help Nate, there is no smoke and mirrors to this stuff, you can do it, just take it slow. We love our boat, check out my other videos depicting how much we enjoy our boat.

Glad you enjoyed it Mr. Jones, be well.

Well the Ethanol Free is probably what saved you, but I would get out there and go WOT for a bit and burn off that fuel, will cost you a bunch more unfortunately to fill back up. Thanks for watching!

Hey Jeff, the plugs when new have a compression washer on them. Once contact is made while hand screwing in you should thereafter be able to tighten more with a ratchet which you will feel some resistance but not too much as the compression washer flattens out. It only compresses once so if you remove and replace that plug you won't feel the same thing again. The plugs should be tightened to only 18.4ft. lbs. of torque. If you don't have one, pick up a small torque wrench. Hope that helps.

Thanks Rustybucket. To be honest I have not earned a dime with my many videos and over 800 subscribers, but comments like yours motivate me to keep moving. Thanks!

Thanks Rashid, makes sure to subscribe to my channel for notification of future videos.

Nope, 3 quarts is about it. The filter once removed contains a little bit more. You did great B Z!

I'm assuming you're referring to the bearing buddies. You should fill until the spring starts to move. I have learned from my mistakes over the years, this will explain it best: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-023JKosRVDw.html

Thanks, and thanks for watching Juan!

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it and hopefully it helps, enjoy!

Happy to help Walter! Thanks for watching.

Hey Jeff, more concerning than the lack of water flowing from the flow indicator on the side of the hull is where it is flowing out by the jet pump. Water leaves the jet pump in three locations while on the hose. 1. Out the exhaust port, mixed with exhaust and cools exhaust. 2. Out the hole on the top right, which is water that passes the thermostat. The flow here increases as the engine warms and the thermostat opens. If the flow continues as a dribble even after the engine is warm, it could indicate a thermostat problem. 3. Back flow of excess water out the inlet strainer and out the center of the nozzle on the pump. Watch my video which covers this midway through. Hope that helps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WMV89Ua0xAA.html

All the best Alara, great boat, we love ours, congratulations!

Thanks Frank, appreciate it. Safe boating!

Thanks RP, working on a new video as we speak, stay safe!

Hey Septv, yes I do use antifreeze. I'm going to link two videos here. The first covers my antifreeze process during my winterization steps, while the other covers what Yamaha truly recommends. Watch the winterization one first. Happy to help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n5XsbIGUKEo.htmlsi=KG7mLZHw9NaytERz ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EP_860dB7jc.htmlsi=vg-0jH5KTgCFf5QT

Thanks! I'll check those out. One more question; When I've pulled kids on a tube, my engine says it's overheating after only 30 mins. It seems like it should handle more than that?. When this happens, I l shut off the engine and let it cool off for awhile. Have you experienced this before with yours? My boat is 2019 with only 40 hrs (sx190) Thanks!@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore

Thanks Adam, appreciate that! Be well.

Hey Tyler, first congratulations on entering the world of boating. You will come to realize that the moment you float away from the dock, you are on vacation. You do not need to change your oil in the Spring if you changed it in the Fall. As long as the oil gets changed seasonally, or in accordance with the Yamaha maintenance schedule you are fine. There is not much more to do but perhaps give everything a full inspection, put a little grease on your steering and directional cables at the jet pump, and if you're inclined the intermediate bearing gets a little grease too, although many don't bother. The most important is to start the engine up and run it a while on the hose to ensure all systems are functioning well.

Thanks for watching, my air filter has remained clean so therefore never changed it, it looks brand new!

Thanks for watching Darrell!

Hey Glenn, I have been buying the oil from Amsoil's website and the plugs and filter just from Amazon or Ebay. The oil price has gotten quite high, has me thinking of cheaper alternatives.Should I go back to Yamalube? Not sure yet.

Hey Luis, congrats on your purchase of a Yamaha! Yup, still using Amsoil. It's expensive but I don't mind. Compared to Yamalube I found it to give me a few more rpms and mph. Early on I stuck with OEM too, sounds like you're on a great path of self maintenance and care for your vessel. Thanks for watching!

Yeah its easy, just take your time. Here if you have any questions. Cheers!

Thanks bud, just trying to help folks realize that they can do things themselves before having to pay significant money for others to do it for them.

Salesh Sharma what's important is that you use the 10w 40 viscosity from an oil brand that meets or exceeds the standards of Yamaha. While I did find good results with the Amsoil synthetic Marine oil, the Yamalube OEM oil does just fine.

Hey Chris, great question. The manual provides an amount of grease to add at the initial servicing followed by routine maintenance periods thereafter. I believe it's just over an ounce at the initial, followed by a quarter ounce at 100 hours or 6 months. So now I have to start measuring the weight of grease? This is not easy. In answer to your question, I gave it a few pumps at the initial, and then 1 or 2 pumps with a pneumatic grease gun each year thereafter. I have since stopped after seeing grease oozing out the front. Perhaps I overfilled it. All seems fine regardless. When in doubt, follow the manual, but follow it carefully.

Hey Ryan, I believe they are the same engine, but can't say definitively. There is the new TR1 engines that are making their way into the newer boats. I'm sure you will be able to repeat what I did on my engine with ease. The process of siphoning out the oil is the same for almost all engines in similar applications. Read your manual and search online, you will be fine.

I recall the first service in 10 hours, perhaps its changed. I would definitely change the filter! Here is why. New engines can sometimes shed metal shavings and foreign material as all the parts work themselves in. This is why dumping the first oil timely is key, and the filter with it. Just my opinion.

Hi Lisa, the Thrust Vectors make a significant difference in low speed handling, the boat is far more responsive and provides greater confidence in controlling the boat. Years after owning them I then installed the Lateral Thrusters. This device made a great difference in reverse control. You will enjoy this video, and if you like it, subscribe to my channel and hit the notification bell to be notified of all upcoming videos, I have a few in progress. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qDprMhu1vJY.html

Jaspion, you are correct. Subsequent to the creation of this video I became aware of NGK's direction regarding the use of anti-seize. If you are careful to not over torque, its a non issue. That said, my plug change this season was done without anti-seize. Thanks

Lately I have been using wheel bearing grease, not sure its the best to use but it seems fine: www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--14oz-refill-for-heavy-duty-wheel-bearing-grease-gun--3704699?recordNum=1

Top of engine, this should help, I cover it here in this recent video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J0Rb42B2MfQ.html

Hey Ben, I agree it looks like I tightened the plug a bit much. I will say that after making contact by hand tightening, it was still turning easily with the ratchet attached. I believe you have to go almost a full turn until the washer compresses fully, thereafter the 18 or so ft.lbs. I may have slightly over tightened it, although I never had a problem unscrewing the plugs, they come out real easy. Now if you were inspecting your used plugs and reinstalling them back in, the washer will have already been compressed so once it makes contact, it would not need to be tightened much more. Hope that helps, glad you liked the video. Making videos is a lot more work than changing oil and plugs..lol.

Thanks Leon. Im changing the plugs in my 242's engines today so I will follow your advice. I bet that video took some time but I sure do appreciate it. I watched it while on a flight cross country and took notes.

You're welcome Chris, glad to help.

Hey Hary, I think you will be fine at the 17 hours, no worries there. This is just another example of uneducated dealers. I find that by the time I'm done learning my boat, reading my owners manual and service manual, I usually can teach the local dealer a thing or two. Learn to do things yourself, besides the huge cost savings, it will generally come out better in the end. Cheers, Leon

Leon Adler Thanks Leon

Is there a specific grease that I am supposed to use in the bearing housing

I'm not sure to be honest. I use West Marine high temperature trailer wheel bearing grease. Its designed for boat trailers.

Thank Andy, The intermediate bearing and housing is one of the big mysteries of our boats. According to the manual, at the 10 hr service it needs approx. 1.1 ounces of grease. Thereafter, at 100hrs, or every 6 months .25 oz. So how many grease gun pumps is this? Depends on your gun. You are supposed to use a fine scale to measure 10 pumps and then divide by ten to get an average. Some say you can damage the seal by over filling. I usually give it one or two pumps at the start of the season. That said, I have seen some grease oooze out the front after pumping, not sure thats a good thing. Requires the whole engine to be moved to replace it which is poor design in my opinion. Just take it easy on it.

Sounds good Leon- roughly what I thought too. I’ve observed the same ooze out of one of my two housings on my 2016 AR240. Doesn’t seem to impact performance. Less is more here, maybe. Get ready for winter up there! I used to live in Old Saybrook. LIS is great boating. You still have a few good weeks left! Cheers, Andy

Chris Findley, you are correct on the cost of Amsoil and filter, more like 75.00. Last year though I bought in bulk with some other Yamaha owners, helped with the cost. The Amsoil was great, engine ran smooth, and hit high RPMs at full throttle. I just changed it on Saturday and put in Amsoil again. I think any oil meeting Yamaha specs is fine, but using a good synthetic is like spoiling your engine, so I'm sticking with it. Thanks

Leon Adler Thank you, sir. Love your work. Informative, inspiring, and entertaining. Have a great season!

Most people do recommend changing the oil at the end of the season. I only put 30 hrs. or so on it each season so the oil is not really all that dirty. A high quality synthetic oil shouldn't harbor acidic contaminants as much. After I burn off the fogging oil in Spring and replace the plugs I like to start off the season with fresh oil, just personal preference.

Hey Rich, I'm not sure but I would guess 300 to 400 for this service. The manual indicates an initial greasing, followed by maintenance greasing every year on the intermediate bearing.. The amount of grease is difficult to measure. I give one or two pumps with a grease gun each season start. Some oozes out so clearly it's full. Good luck!

Hey Jeramy, congrats on your boat. I flush my engine with fresh water after every outing. I start the engine and then thereafter turn on the water almost right away. You can run the engine without water for a little while before the overheat alarm goes off, but you should not let that happen. When you're ready to shut it down, turn off the water and then spend the next 10-15 seconds rapidly increasing the throttle to 4000 RPM's, and then back down, to push out residual water. Let it idle for a second or too and shut it off. Do not run the water without the engine running. The reason is simple. The running engine's exhaust keeps the water from entering the engines internals. With the engine off, high pressure water could enter the engines cylinders causing serious engine damage. Hope that helps.

@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore Thank you! I'm confident in changing oil and spark plugs next season...

Thanks, I will look into it! Appreciate it.

It's an easy adjustment right there by the linkage. Back off the stop nut and turn the threaded part until it takes away the slack and then tighten the stop nut again. Anyway I love your boat and your videos. I am thinking about upgrading from my current 17 foot boat to the AR190. I am looking forward to taking one for a test drive to see how it handles rougher waters, namely offshore in South Jersey. My only other thing I want to look into is fuel consumption. My current setup after running full day I burn maybe 15 gal of fuel, just cruising (at various speeds, lots of full throttle) around the back bays and a little out front when it's calmer. I am curious to how much fuel you burn in a day doing similar. Keep making the great videos.

Got it, you can delete your email now so you don't get spammed.

Hey Kevin, Yeah I have cleaned the cable ends before applying new grease. The old grease gets tacky and dirty. I suppose you could use brake cleaner or even WD-40 and a rag. I thereafter apply a light coat on the cables with my finger. So far it seems to be working well.

Leon Adler Hey when you change your oil how do you level your boat to make sure you get as much oil out or as much out that you can

I put a level in the floor of the boat, usually over the ski locker, even when I do the engine is at a slight tilt to the rear. The manual says to make the boat level, so I feel what I'm doing is sufficient. To some degree we can overthink everything...lol.

ok i leveled the boat putting a level on the ski locker and checked the oil (not warming up the engines ) 70 degrees out don't know if that matters and the oil in both engines are in the middle of low and full. Do i have to much oil in there and if so should i take some out before i warm up the motors. I heard its not good to put to much oil in Thanks in advance

Sounds like you are perfect. Mine is actually closer to the high dot on the stick, but not over. You're fine, go enjoy your boat :)

Ted, to be honest I'm not sure. Not owning that design in my boat I can only say that I have seen different instructions for things like fogging the Supercharged engines. Beyond that it's probably the same.

Got it at Westmarine Boating store, but any decent one will do, it really works well.

@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore thanks. Thought I was all set with the one I had then I realized it didn’t have the think tubes that go in the dipstick hole.

Thanks glad you liked it, not sure if this is the right stuff to use but seems to meet the criteria: www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--refill-for-heavy-duty-wheel-bearing-grease-gun-14-oz--3704699

I bought it at West Marine when it was on sale, but any decent one will do I'm sure.

@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore Thank for getting back.

To the comparable water connection, which can vary in location depending on the model.

@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore I'm going to look at an ar240 2014 tomorrow. 40 hrs on it. Any inspection tips? Won't be able to test it in the water.

@@harringtonkyle2 Well first I'm curious how a 5 year old boat only has 40 hrs? Assuming its legit, I would lower the trailer tongue all the way down giving the most clearance in the rear to crawl under and inspect the condition of the impellers. Bring a flash light. Then start the engines one at a time and let it run until it warms up fully. Should be smooth from idle through higher rpm's. as you rev it. Look for any hull damage too. Good luck.

Some people do change the oil before Winter. The concern to them is leaving dirty oil with impurities sitting for months. For me with only 30-40 hrs. on the engine each season, the oil is still pretty clean. I like starting off in Spring with everything fresh. Either way is totally fine, in my opinion.

Sorry Theo I really don't know, perhaps 80ft.lbs. or so. We should call the trailer manufacturer and find out.

Sounds good...lol. Thanks.

The point of the video Kevin is to give you the confidence to do it yourself, you can do this!...lol.

No one!

@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore just checking. Lol Amsoil is a cult. Lol Btw, that advice about jacking the trailer up on blocks is gold. I agree 100%

@@DoyleHargraves thanks Doyle, and this year I'm not running Amsoil. Escaped the cult! Doing an experiment.

@@CaptainLeonsBoatingandMore yamalube smelled too different fir me to stray from. It smelled like gear oil. I can't imagine why unless yamaha had a reason for it.