14:40 your video helped me again, I drained my oil drain pan (which at the camp is a cut in half 2 gallon water jug lol) found that stupid little spring in there and didn't immediately know what machine it was from, id been working on wheeler, dirtbikes and sleds... Frig, glad I found it. Luckily I was waiting for a new bolt for that lower sprocket... I had a bolt backout and drill a hole in the chaincase cover near the end of the winter... the old bolt had no evidence of locktite on it, I suspect that was why it failed
Awesome video! The chain case on the Phazer MTX is very similar with the Nytro so this video was great help. Doing a track change for the first time so I appreciate it!
Thank you! Turns out on mine the driveshaft bolt that holds the bottom guide and big spring was sheared off at some point and is a common issue. But its not even necessary. The chaincase holds it all together. Also all 3 bolts holding the driveshaft bearing were loose and backing out! Glad I went in there.
Wow…Glad you discovered it before the DS bearing detonated. That bearing should be looked at every 2 to 3 yrs. A lot of snow gets in there and rusts like crazy over summer
can you tell me if theres supposed to be a dipstick on the right of that chaincase? I just noticed mine either went missing or didn't come with one... only the screw in one on the left... the hole on the right looks like its missing the stick....
I don’t have my Nytro anymore, but I believe from memory and from my video, that “spout” should have a plug on it. I’ve never had mine apart or opened, and never had to do anything w it in 10 yrs of riding. Hope this helps you out.
Great video GC! Can’t wait to work on mine. Recently purchased a used 2009 Nitro XTX with 9000 km. Getting-into reverse is a little rough. So definitely going to check that out as I’ve got to replace the track on it also. Thanks again!
Hey man..thx for the reply. Hope the vid can help you. It's quite straight forward to get to your reverse issue. First, leave everything alone and simply clean up your reverse linkage....be alot of break dust and crap on it no doubt. Then apply some silicone spray lube, or light coating of ur favorite grease or lube, on the moving parts of that external reverse linkage system. Then move reverse handle back and forth several times. Easier if track is lifted off the ground.. After that, it's a matter working ur reverse handle smoothly when you need to engage reverse, and back to drive. ALWAYS make sure sled is fully stopped on the trail, b4 you engage reverse! And..sometimes if sled does not want to go back to drive mode, reverse sled a little bit more, stop fully, and slide handle back forward again to drive. It's a very robust system, and works very well. I love it cos it's mechanical..not electrical.!! It may take some getting used to working that handle, and can sonetimes feel like it's not working, or sitting into place, but if everything is working in the chain case properly, the reverse sometimes just needs some gentle manipulation of the handle, and/or backing up a tad more..or moving ahead a tad more....but always fully stop to engage. Just some tips b4 you open chain case. Dan
Awesome man, thx for the comment. A little intricate, but pretty simple if u take ur time. Just keep an eye out for that little rubber O Ring when you pull the cover off from the shaft
Thank you for this video. I subscribed and liked. You explain everything so well. I am going to take mine apart just to check it out inside. I just got this sled and it has 20’000 km on it so better make sure all is good in there.
Thanks so much for the comments, and the Sub man! Happy you’re getting value from that vid. Just take ur time and reach out to me if you have any questions. It’s a lot of fun diving into it(chain case), thx again Dan
@@GnarlyChicken thanks for your help. I do have a question. The shaft or pin that the gears go on with the spring. Does that have play. Like does the shaft move a little? Mine seems lose. When I drive my sled it has a wine like a supercharger. But the guy before me had the chain to tight. Other then that and the pin having play everything looks ok.
@@joerutkowsky3261 Yes it will move a bit. And it should certainly move in one direction when it’s all put in place. Should be able to spin it effortlessly with your hand. Should be able to push it in (compress spring), and twist. As far as the whining noise you’re referring to, I always where ear plugs because of my motor, air box and full Hindle Hurricane System, so I hear nothing but good ol Braaaaaaap…. Lol.
Ya great video man. Extremely helpful. Was searching for a video on a break down on these. I have a 2010 nytro W reverse. I can turn my secondary quite a bit by hand, seems like a lot of play in mine. Like way to much. Maybe chain is just loose ??
Thank you for doing this video! Very helpful. I am just getting ready to tear down my 2011 Nytro XTX case to replace the track and some bearings/seals etc. while in there. I know the clutch side bearing by Speedo is a given to replace but what other bearings have you found that had wear? I don't know if I should order ALL chaincase bearings or leave some alone? Like the ones that see gear lube? Wondering about the secondary clutch bearing as well? My sled has 5500 miles/8851 km. Does the driveshaft just pull out at that point to get the skid out? Thanks again
No problem man, glad the vid is helpful. To answer some of ur questions. I wouldn't worry about the sec or the chain case bearings. CC bearings get lubed all the time. You'll have to take apart ur CC to pull ur driveshaft from clutch side. You can check those CC bearings when you have the cover off. I'd say they should be good w your kms. Speedo and drive shaft bearing are the most important. They get all the snow and wet. I changed mine out every two yrs...cos I'm like that..lol
Great vid! very helpful. I have a 2005 Yamaha Vector that wont start. After trouble shooting the list of things, Battery Check, Celenoid Check, Starter replaced, it still wont start. Just goes click when I turn the ignition on. Any idea how I replace the bearing where the starter plunger throws into? I'm an armature at best when it come to snowmobile mechanic.
Thanks bud appreciate the great feedback! Did you replace the celenoid? They are prone to going bad. I always cleaned the contacts and dielectric greased mine every fall. Also check the fuse in the celenoid box. Some people refer to that celenoid as the starter relay btw.. Also, take your battery out take it to a shop and have them load test it. If your battery is below 75% full capacity charge that may be your problem as well. I change my battery every two years because those puppies are not exactly easy to start when the battery doesn’t work. I would check these things first. Dan
Lots of tips man…mostly to make the ride better, and a few fixes and tricks to help you on those nasty cold nights when you’re 500 miles from you’re truck, and it’s-35! My first piece of advice would be to just drive it first and see how you like it. If this is your first four stroke and also your first nitro, compared to two-stroke sleds with different suspension, steering, weight and a whole whack of other things, you will find it to be a terrible Handling snowmobile at first LOL. The Yamaha nitro is a very top heavy, harsh steering, snowmobile. The motor, however is second to none in my opinion. What I like about the nitro is you can work around the motor and make everything else very good. If you want to hear more just let me know and I will tell you everything I can think of about what I’ve done to mine over the years. Keep in mind however, that mine is a long track XTC. Totally different handling sled on the bumps and trail then RTX
@@GnarlyChicken Let me know everything you know! My sled has the fox float X shocks, tuner skis, did all the a arm bushings with oil lites, ski spindles, ski bushings etc. I find it to be a bit stiff and haven't tested it out all that much due to lack of snow. I previously had a skidoo mxx 600 etec and find the steering a lot heavier on the nytro.
OK, I just checked your channel and see that you are no stranger to Yamaha‘s or sledding LOL. I also subscribed to your channel as well. As far as the nitro I see you have already taken care of the front end with oil light bushings. Very important, you’ll never need to change those probably again. The next thing you want to consider is the steering angle of the sled. You will notice when you turn full lock the steering bars turned at a really strange angle. The first thing I did to mine was put a steering relocate on the steering stem. It brings your bars forward and more vertical like a normal driving snowmobile. The next thing I did to my own nine was replace the god awful, shitty headlight. It is an absolute nightmare at night on the trails. I went with sledge start H IDs but any good LED will be 100 times better than that junk that’s in there now. After that I put on yammer heaters. My 09 has almost no hand grip warmth until you get the revs up past a certain point for a continued time period. The llama heater grip warmers and thumb booster are an absolute must if you’re in cold weather. I see you’re on Muskoka Lakes so you’re probably no stranger to the cold weather. The next thing I will suggest is to buy a spare starter solenoid and keep it on you. The solenoids are known to freeze and unless you want to pour steaming hot water or take a piss on it the sled will not start. I took mine apart every fall cleaned the tabs and added dielectric grease and never had an issue after the first year. Also, change out all of your relays except one. By the red solid-state relays and replace three of the four. They will freeze on you and the sled will not start. You should probably do this first. You have the fox floats which I don’t like, but as far as Suspension goes I’ll added the star relocate suspension kit to mine it transformed the moguls and washout bumps at the end of the day from all of this lead traffic. It is an unbelievable upgrade at least to the XTX model. I also had him rebuild and re-do all four shocks for my weight driving area and ability. Including a fall revolve. Along with the star relocate and rebuilt suspension my sled was a completely different beast altogether. I also change the skis several times I had the tuner skis but couldn’t make them work right even after I shamed the skis at the spindle. I ended up going with the curve XS skis and never looked back. Sly dogs are another good option. Pilot 5.7‘s and a bunch of other skis. However I have buddies who love the stockers lol. I rebuilt my skid every year just because I have OCD and you should definitely look at your drive shaft bearing down below the secondary and change that if it hasn’t been done in the last few years. They will rust out quickly in the summer because they get so much snow in that area. That should keep you busy for now lol
Oh and a couple more important things. Change your sliders if they haven’t been done in the last couple years. The stock sliders were out extremely fast until they hit about 75% then they were out much slower. I switched to DuPont’s six years ago and never replaced them cents. The problem is the nitrile idler wheels are too small. This puts pressure on the sliders especially at the front of the skid. I switched out all my idlers except the rear ones and the top track idlers, two skidoo idlers they are 5 mm wider in diameter and as such put way less stress on your slides.
@@GnarlyChicken Good tips. I have dupont sliders and a low snow wheel kit on the front of the skid where it starts to bend. Forgot to mention...I also did a ski alignment. I'm going to ride it a bit before I really start messing around with suspension settings / upgrades but it is good to hear what you did to make it perform better.
No probably not needed. That speedo bearing is very common and will deteriorate much much faster than its oil bathed bearing in the chain case. Speedo bearing gets all the snow and water...and goes bad quickly when it sits all summer. Should change that bearing every 3 to 4 yrs max.
