by far the most interesting and informative video I've seen i just picked up a lightly crashed r3 for a track bike build and I'm about 9 or 10 g's into it and not quite done yet can't wait to get it out on the track up here in Canada we only get 6 months to ride so we spend our winters in the garage wrenching thanks for the info
Jesus 9-10k already? What did you buy so far? I'm having a blast on my near stock r3 (only got the tst tune done) and I'm thinking about getting some new goodies once I get to level 2 pace in stock form.
Knowing nothing about racing, I was just curious how much those 300-400 make when they win a race and does the 2nd 3rd place winner earn anything? How do they get paid and can you do it as a living?
😄 If you're looking at racing as a means to make money in 2022, you're going to be sorely disappointed... The only people that actually profit from actually riding anymore are doing it via sponsorship and their limited contracts with teams. And those guys are doing it more for the love of the sport than as a realistic way to make a living long-term. There was a time when race winnings, (purses), themselves were significant, and you could make a go at it as a full-time privateer. But that day is long gone, and even then, you had to be in the top 1% of competitors to make it work as a viable source of adult level income. Most folks out there now are either kids who's parents are footing all the bills, or older people who have a highly profitable day job that enables them to pour large amounts of money into a weekend hobby with little or no need of a return. Even if you are both young and VERY fast, it takes years to hone your skills on-track to a point that you can be competitive at a pro level that would attract any meaningful sponsors, like in a MotoAmerica or Spanish Moto 2 type of series. And if you're not well on your way by your mid teen years, you're basically fighting a losing battle. There are a few guys with exceptional talent that can squeak out a go at MotoAmerica Supersport or something for a while as adults, but they are pouring everything they have into it because they love it more than anything else, and would be far more financially successful just starting a lawn care business or something... For every guy you know the name of from the world of roadracing, there are 10,000 other guys that had incredible talent and potential that weren't lucky enough to either get the right opportunities to show it or got hurt and weren't able to fully recover and never made it to a level of notoriety that enabled them to move on to a full-time position in the sport like a team manager, race official, or manufacturer rep. It's a lot like most other pro sports at this point. Think about what it takes to make it to pro baseball or football and actually make a decent living. There are a lot of guys that do it for 2-3 years at lower levels. But they are absolutely incredible athletes, and even then, the average career is very short and takes a massive toll on them physically and often emotionally. And 99% of them are back to working a regular job and making a regular income pretty quickly. My advice would be to give amateur racing at an affordable level a try and see what you think about it. Find a "mini bike" league or supermoto series in yiur area and see what it's all about. If you love traveling 4-8hrs from home every weekend and sleeping in a trailer or van in a parking lot and working your ass off every single day of your life in order to win at all costs, racing may be for you. I was definitely that guy for a long time. But if you aren't straight up obsessed with the whole lifestyle and heat of the competition, you'd most likely hate it pretty quickly.
Yea, sure! Just the normal stuff... -Ohlins Shock -Custom fork upgrades to oil viscosity and level, preload, and damper rods -Bridgestone slicks -EBC wave rotor and race only pads -Braking radial front master cylinder -Goodridge stainless brake lines f/r -Yoshimura Alpha full exhaust -Norton Motorsports ECU flash -MotionPro quick turn throttle -eBay clip-ons, steering damper, and clutch lever - Vortex rearsets -DID non o-ring chain -Vortex sprockets f/r -Hotbodies Racing bodywork and front fender -CRC tail/seat -Shogun frame and axle sliders -R&G case covers, chain guard, and exhaust hanger -MWR air filter - a bunch of high end titanium and aluminum replacement hardware and aluminum screw off gas cap -Woodcraft ignition eliminator -Graves cam chain tensioner -and some other trick secret shit I can't reveal 😉
That’s awesome! I’m hoping to race here in Oregon on my 2020 R3. It’s all street for now, but I plan on really tricking it out as soon as I can get familiar with the racing community here. What’s the top speed on yours?
I'm not 100% sure about actual top speed. But I can say that I picked up at least 8-10mph more with the Yosh system than I was able to pull with the stock or chinese pipe I had in 2019. It will now get to the limiter in 6th. Where as before, I would certainly not.
Do you have any airbox mods and tune for the bike? Norton motorsports has a great write up showing nice gains. Also, idk if quickshifters are allowed in the races that you do but I've had really good luck with Healtech quickshifters on all my bikes. Nice vid
TST says the cut-frame sliders are better than the no-cut ones. I trust them. What is your opinion? Should I put both? I'll also be getting the norton tune but with graves exhaust.
I would say the cut sliders are definitely better. I used a set from shogun, but also trimmed them down so that they wouldn't protrude from the fairings, as I was not concerned with fairing damage as much as aerodynamics and frame shielding.
Yes, many times. Depends on the track as to how well the R3 competes. Obviously, it's at a displacement deficit that is pretty significant. But at a course without long straights it holds its own just fine. Places like Fontana, Willow Springs, Road Atl, Road America, ect, where horsepower is a deciding factor, it's tough to maintain the pace of the 400's. But on the other hand, I've beaten many 400's on tighter tracks like Vegas, Little Talladega, and Buttonwillow.
@@roadraceguy Thank you for the reply. Super cool seeing racers getting serious and having fun with the small displacement bikes. The other day another youtuber supplied a link on 400cc lightweight class race at the Isle of Man. Small bikes can be a real blast. Take care.
@@EBthere they're super fun and you have to be more accurate and precise than on the higher HP bikes. You really can't make mistakes, especially against the 400's. Also, tires last about twice as long. I've never had much money to devote to racing like most folks out there these days. So, tires go twice as far and that makes all the difference when your budgeting ever dollar spent.
@@roadraceguy The fact you're on a budget has to make it that much sweeter when you go around the bigger bikes in the curves! I love the bigger bikes too but it's cool to watch the smaller bikes come out on top sometimes. From what I've watched, your comment of needing to be more accurate and precise are spot on.
@@EBthere If you're running one at a track day or something, and are a good rider, you can really stick it to most 600's and even a lot of liter bikes. However, it can also get dangerous. They always put me in the "A" classes and I pass so many people coming into corners on the brakes and even on the outside midcorner only to watch them rip back past me on the next straight that it can be ridiculous, and you'll see the guys getting really mad about it. Must be a shot to their ego... But if you're wanting to improve your technique, there's really no better way than on an R3 or Ninja 400. I'm a big fan of riding TTR's and 85's on kart tracks and in parking lots, but they're not quite the same. I have raced a lot of different classes over the years, and honestly, I learned and improved my riding more in 2019 & 2020 on this R3 than at any other time.
I run Bridgestone S22's on my streetbikes. They have excellent grip, and are not too expensive. They also come in R3 sizes. (110f 140r) However, if you do a lot of commuting and/or highway miles, as opposed to canyons or mountain riding, the T32 may be a better choice. But I think they've been out of stock at a lot of place, and I don't believe they have a 110 front. The 120 will work, though.
@@roadraceguy definitely was looking at s22 . Some say to go 150/70 in the back is ok and some say to keep 140. What do you think? And what about brakes ?
@@mightymykell id say go for the 150 if you want to, but the wheel may distort the profile a little, preventing full use of the edge of the tire. I have to run a 120/165 setup with the Bstone V02 slicks on my R3, and they are both pinched a bit, so you can't actually get to the edge. But grip is still amazing and they were used that way for several track records across the US. I use Goodridge brake lines on all my bikes, and have some special small diameter race lines on .you R3. But last I looked, they don't make a "kit" for the R3. You have to purchase the lines and fittings separately, which can lead to a poor fit if you're not careful. I don't think there's a huge difference in the quality of name brand braided lines, though. The Spiegler kit is probably the easiest way to go. Be careful bleeding the stock master cylinder. It traps air and can be nearly impossible to fully bleed. If you want better brakes, take a serious look at upgrading to a small bore radial MC and more aggressive pads. Brembo and Braking both make a 14 or 15mm MC, and EBC has some crazy good "race only" pads that work very well on track. May not be good for street, though. They need more heat and aren't made for normal use.
@@roadraceguy yeah, not in track mode yet tho I want to hit APEX out in Temecula california. My last R3 had a 150 on the back and It was fine. For brakes , I just know the stock brakes heat up if you ever ride aggressively and that’s how I learned steel braided lines are better. I’ll look Into getting spiegler , and I wouldn’t put them on myself lol.
So i am making a 2020 R3 build to race in FMRRA and i was wondering what you thought of the braking master cylinder (if i could get the link to that, would be great) and do i really need one ? Because i see alot of people race with the stock master cylinder.
I have used Braking MC's for years, and consider them to be very high quality and a great upgrade from stock. I can't give you a link, as I purchase them through Parts Unlimited. The stock master cylinder on the R3 is OK, but it is nearly impossible to bleed properly and limits your feel. It has a defect that traps air in it and you need to remove it from the handlebars or lay the bike on it's side to completely purge it of air. It is also not a radial, and as such, will never have the same level of feel and control as you'll get with a radial master cylinder. You can certainly get by with the stock mc, but I am a hard braker and trailing it into corners at high lean angles necessitates perfect control.
Hi thanks for video. Does CRG tail/seat unit with pad really raises ride height by 2.5/3 inches? Did you measure it? If yes the ride height should be 84-85 cm. Comparing to standart 78cm? Thanks im advance.
@@roadraceguy So you mean if I buy this unit www.crcfairings.co.uk/yamaha-yzf-r3-2015-2018-crc-fairings-seat-complete-seat-unit-seatpad-seat-support-2831-p.asp it will raise seat height as per yours? I am asking because I have contacted them and they say no
With a good flash, I don't think a Power Commander is really necessary on the R3. If I had wanted a quick shifter it would be a different story, but my goal was to keep this bike as basic as I could and stay competitive. I'm sure it would translate to a little time on track, though.
A lot... and I got 90% of it at dealer cost. I used to tell people I only had a few thousand in it, but then I actually sat down and added it all up. Well over $10k.
@@Nathan2692 im 6' tall and the mods I have done are covered in detail in this video. I can't give you personal setup information, as all rider's needs, styles, tracks, and conditions you may be dealing with are different. Getting the ground clearance, weight distribution, and rider position correct are major factors in creating a competitive R3, but they will be different for everyone.
@@Nathan2692 I really can't make a definite statement about YOU on YOUR bike. But for me, I needed everything as high as I could get it. Raise the rear, raise the pegs, raise the seat, AND raise the forks in the triple clamp. All of that made me faster on my bike, and worked for what I do and how I do it. (But I also got my spring rates and damping perfect and have a style that is heavily dependent on front end feel.) My style is to carry as much corner speed as possible with high lean angles, and I am very late and very hard on the brakes. With the R3, that usually means you're only braking for 1-3sec at the hardest points. The R3 has little HP, so I don't need stability on the gas like you would trade off for on an R1 or something. So, I set mine up for maximum cornering ability to keep momentum as high as possible. Personally, my overall advice is be wary of what "people" on the internet are telling you about geometry adjustments and pay for a pro suspension person to help out. In my experience, 99% of riders don't have the slightest idea what they're talking about or are just regurgitating what someone else said.
