Join me on Patreon! / tony3599 #electronics #repair 𝐁𝐮𝐲 𝐦𝐞 𝐚 𝐜𝐨𝐟𝐟𝐞𝐞: www.buymeacoff... 𝐓𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐫/𝐗: / tony359 I purchased a faulty Yamaha RX-V371 Home Theatre Receiver. Will I be able to fix it?
This is awesome. The first thing I ever fixed was a Sony receiver from 1997 that my father put on the sidewalk because it wouldn't turn on anymore. This was 2005. I thought to myself, "I wonder what makes this thing work" So I brought it up stairs to take apart. Turns out the plastic power button was just misaligned and wasn't pressing the switch to turn it on. That receiver worked until 2015. Now seeing receiver's repaired always brings a smile to my face.
That was worth the effort! So many things end up in the rubbish because of such simple issues. I'm glad I brought back good memories, thanks for watching!
Part of this video did help me : system stopped working abruptly ; too much heat this summer season ? Finally I followed this advice : pull the main plug - then plug in again = system works again ! Thank you.
Really liked this video. I spotted that bulged cap early on, but you went through every option which is a great learning experience to detect WHY this power was not working to spec. Some caps look bad but aren't some look good and are bad. I am NOT good at this but try anyway, haha and would like to learn. I think a couple thousand$ in meters and tools and learning to read schematics (which you actually gave a quick tutorial here) and getting service manuals (for free too ;-) would get me on that path, maybe. But your Video made the detection process so nicely transparent and logical. The camera work with very useful macro and the attention to show the real part associated with the schematic was lovely. Cherry on top was your backing music was ancillary and nicely quite low in the mix so didn't interfere at all with your narration.
Hey, that is very very kind of you to say, thank you a lot! I'm thrilled to hear you enjoyed the video! I did spot the capacitor too but I like learning things and replacing a capacitor and call it a day wouldn't have been fun at all! :) I'm glad you enjoyed the journey! It took me some time to get to a point where I can (barely LOL) understand schematics so please don't give up! Also tools are not too expensive nowadays. A good tool will make your life easier (I absolutely LOVE my fluke meter, it destroys my EXTECH hands down) but there are buckets of cheap tools on the market, some of them are actually pretty good. I don't think you need thousands - say hundreds! A decent meter, soldering iron and I would say a scope. I hope to see you back soon! and thanks for watching! :)
@@tony359 you're welcome. I've now taken my HTR-5960 apart to get to the bottom PCB of 5 boards and test the caps that looked slightly pudgy on the top. They all tested good though (sigh) so it's put it all back together and try to do in circuit tests now.
@@tony359 well I don't have a service menu on this model I'm pretty sure, if that's what you mean. Setup menu, but not service, unless I'm missing something.
@@Carlsings on the 5960 the DIAG menu can be accessed by pressing INPUT and MULTI-CH while powering up. You should get a message telling you why the receiver powered off last time (something like "I PROTECT A"). I just downloaded the service manual and took a look, it's on elektrotanya.com :)
I bought the same amp used, with the same faulty cap, and did the same repair, around when you released this video...but only now did RU-vid recommend this video to me! :P
First of all, thank you very much. so it couldn't be explained so well. You are like a real teacher. I met you for the first time with this video, but I am very pleased. You explained very well. Thank you so much. i have the same problem and i will try all the steps in the morning
I feel like a have taken a trip from Paris to Madrid via Los Angeles. However it was the educational route, and I wasn't that much in a hurry anyway 😊. I like the approach you take on fixing electronics
Another in-depth and insightful set of techniques ! I usually start with a Sniff-Test for that classic fried electronics aroma, a slow visual (as I figure out the labels & circuits) , and a needle probe to check for loose/un-soldered pins.... THEN get TECHIE !! LOL
Good job on the video. For years Onkyo had bad HDMI boards. Many are in the trash. Seems the Texas Instruments DPS chip often failed because of heat, etc. I think in the last 5 years, those problems have gone away. Hopefully.
Don't mention them! I have two which are paperweights because of that HDMI boards. Nothing to do with heat, it was a manufacturing defect from Texas Instruments. No (reliable) replacements available so 25KG of good electronics go in the trash. I hate that! Thanks for watching!
Spotted the bulged cap straight away. Tony also sees it, but fails to check it for ages. Finally after chasing his bum for ages he checks the cap, and low and behold it is causing the fault.
As mentioned in the video and on many other comments, it was totally intentional. Swapping the cap and fixing it would have taken 5 minutes, I wouldn't have learnt anything from doing it and it would have been boring. Thanks for watching!
I have the same V371 receiver with a similar problem but I get DC 138H as the protection fault. The silly thing is when I run Test All then all the 5 channels work fine. If I look inside, unfortunately there are no obviously bulging capacitors to be seen.
DC should mean that you have DC out of the terminals. If too much DC is output, you risk to damage your speakers so the amp shuts down. If you have a multimeter, probe the channel outputs and see if you actually have some DC - I think the receiver will only tolerate a few hundred mV before shutting down. I am not an expert but in that case it may be a faulty amplifier module - those are difficult to source and expensive I'm afraid. Still, I would check the 7V output with a multimeter set to AC: it should read more or less zero. If not, the capacitor has failed and it lets AC through. I am not suggesting that capaciors are always at fault here but that particular capacitor seems to be a common fault with the V371.
@@tony359 Thanks for the pointers. I checked the 7V output and it is 9.24V so that could be where the problem lies. It points to the bridge rectifier but I have never seen one fail and give you more volts.
@@BabyFruitBat my oscilloscope read 8.27V, I found the values from the service manual not very accurate, not sure why. That voltage is going through voltage regulators if Memory serves so that shouldn't be a big problem. Did you also measure the AC component of that rail?
@@tony359 The output from the voltage regulators is 1.2V and 3.3V. The AC component of the ripple is minimal, about 20mv. I also measured the DC level on the loudspeaker outputs and they are all less than 3.5mV. I am stumped now. Any other ideas?
@@BabyFruitBat You've done a good job! Does the unit shut off immediately or every now and then? Some thoughts. 1. The issue may be intermittent so you need to measure exactly when the unit shuts down. If you watched my video you saw that the 3.3V was ok until it wasn't! :) Is the 20mV on the 7V line? If that's the case, I would say that that is not your problem. 2. I think the unit would shut down when even ONE channel has DC on it. So you should measure DC while the units shuts down on each channel. 3. From the service mode, check A/D Data check. This will give you real time DC reading on the outputs - I think they are all joined together, you won't get channel by channel. It may help to see if and when the level is increasing. Normal values are 27 to 88. Reference is 3.3V when reading 255 so 27 = 34mV and 88 = 1.13V. You get 138 so the unit is somehow reading 1.78V at the outputs. Really not sure whether this is a summation of all the channels or not - should be. Anyways, if you see the value increasing and then the unit shuts down, I would then follow that route: is that a false reading or is there DC on the outputs? Detection is on pin 87 of the main chip. The signal is probed on all channels (and mixed together) via a resistor if not wrong. Page 83 of the service manual. It feels a very basic circuit which is pulled down by a 100K resistor. I hope this helps, sorry it doesn't seem like a super simple fix!
You mentioned about de-oxit in the UK not being available but I’m in the UK and have used it for years and indeed bought some the other day and is available quite readily online even Amazon. It's around £21 - £25 a can for D5 and around £30ish for Fader Lube version.
Thank you! I'm glad you liked the extra explanations. I could have just replaced that capacitor and call it a day but where's the fun then? :) Thanks for watching!
When the sinewave notches just a little bit that's about 1% THD. When clipped off enough like you saw, that should be around 3%. Helpful to quickly visually estimate output power. Solid state amps are usually characterized at 1% and tube amps at 3%. To be more precise we need the FFT analysis.
Absolutely. Mine was a rough estimate. As you say to get proper values I’d need to calculate the THD. But a visual check gives me a ballpark which should be telling me if all is in order or not. Thanks for watching!
This was really fun to watch. I'd like to learn electronics and how to repair stuff. I'm curious to know what gadget that was that you used to test the capacitors, powered by a 9v Energizer battery
Thank you! It's a very inexpensive component tester. There are a thousand different versions, I think it's called the LCR T6 but there are so many variants and copies :) It's a must!
Thank you! It's a long time ago but I remember seeing the bulged capacitor when I opened it. Still it was nice to play around a bit to find the fault rather than just replace parts. Thanks for watching!
That was still 600 quid new and nearly 100 w per channel and the amps have been replaced allready and I know itsthe bottom end of thr line but they still sound nice and rattle the neighbours windows nicely😊🔉
Of course but this is for fun and to learn things. Had I just replaced the cap immediately it would have been a short and boring video 🙂 Thanks for watching!
Hello - you mean my current limiter? Yes, I should probably make a video, thanks for the idea! but the base idea is that you have a lightbulb in PARALLEL with the device so if the device shorts, the most power the mains line will provide is the value of the lightbulb, no more.
Great work, i have a Yamaha rx v767 with no sound, i was told its the dts chip and its not financially worth repairing, would you repair or scrap it? It seems to only work in multi channel mode
I’m not familiar with this issue unfortunately. That is usually how Onkyo fail. But then you don’t have any sound whatsoever. I can’t really say if it’s an easy fix or not I’m afraid. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 no it doesn, only multi channel mode shows the speaker symbols, also like on RU-vid if you heat the dsp chip, it also doesn't work, im in Cape Town South Africa
@@thechronic6708 Then it might be something else? I'm sorry, I am not familiar with that design - not that I am with other brands! :) I've downloaded the service manual out of curiosity and I have a couple of pointers. 1. Indeed the multichannel input - or analogue inputs - don't go through the "digital board". They go straight into IC153. So that seems to point to an issue in that area (digital board). Unless IC153 is faulty. 2. Those AVRs have TONS of diagnostics in the service menu. I did not go through them but there are literally pages and pages of very interesting things. Maybe that could help you pinpointing the issue? Sorry I wish I could be more helpful!
loved your video. I need help my bluetooth on my unit is failing, keeps disconnecting from my tablet and im sure its not the tablet because the tablet works good on another unit. how do i replace or fix my bluetooth in my avr rx-v681?
Thanks Joey - I'm really not familiar with BT. Was it working before? BT is a protocol, there are many versions around, I've had BT devices not working well with others but not for a HW fault. Before I'd think of a fault I'd try another device. Does your unit have a firmware update available by any chance?
@@joeydelmarsjr.646 It could also be that your tablet got updated - updates sometimes break things! Yes, try different devices please. If still not working, I'm afraid I wouldn't know where to look at, sorry.
Nice repair, i didn't know some of the Yamahas used to build in these goddamn STK amp modules. Technics used to do it and Panasonic too, since they are under the same company, but not too many other companies used them. They are very hard to find, and expensive too. If 1 channel fails, you need to swap the whole module, which is nonsense. I like more the transistor-based amps, easier and cheaper to repair. I do similar repairs as a hobby, in the future i will avoid these cheaper yamahas for sure. I know, some of the higher-end models from Yamaha using transistors in the amp sections, they are more repair-friendly.
I agree with you, those monolithic models are bad. I've worked on a small Onkyo as well featuring one of those. As you say they're expensive and not great. Thanks for watching!
What kind of cap did you use I have the Rx v1600 one of the capacitors is blotted I see the Amp board is X7094-5 the same as The 5990 2 would you say it is the same board Thanks
Hi Marc, the capacitance and voltage is indicated on the capacitor itself. The capacitance, in uF or micro Farad, has to be the same. The voltage must be the same or higher. Ideally you want 'low ESR' capacitors and rated for 105 degrees. If you can't read those values on the capacitor itself, you should be able to download the service manual of your AVR. Good luck!
Greetings and great video!I have the same amp but recently suround and center speakers gets no signal and stopped working. I ve run the self diagnostic Test All and no sound come out,while front,right and sub works.Could it be that the dsp chip is faulty or perhaps the relays for Center and Suround?Although i am getting the front unit display DSP logo and the suround and center speakers normally. Any advise could be useful!Thanks!
Hello Harris and thanks for watching! The are two "monolitic" amplifier chips in the 371. Looking at the schematics, Surround and Centre are not on the same chip. Anything is possible but I doubt those chips are both faulty. It could be anything I'm afraid: faulty relays as you suggest or also faulty muting transistors. If you have an oscilloscope, the sound is converted back to analogue in the IC263 and then it gets into a selector/volume chip IC21(that could also be bad). For reference the centre channel gets into IC21 on pin 92 and gets out on pin 22. If you could probe that pin and see if anything goes in (and then out), it would be a start. On the main amplifier chip, centre channel is entering on pin 15 and getting out (amplified) on pin 6 before it reaches the relay. Without an oscilloscope it may be a bit more complicated but I guess you can still see signs of noise using a good multimeter. I hope this helps a bit - the schematic is available online at elektrotanya.com. Good luck!
Great video. I have a 481 outputing very bad static sound. Unit powers up but just the sound is very bad. What are you ideas on this if you may. Thank you.
Hello - thanks for watching! It's difficult to diagnose from here. Does it happen on all channels? Does it mute when you change input? Does it follow the volume fader?
I put a new fuse in and it didn't power on. but got a protection mode. I did combo button push to clear the protection mode and just about when the displays showed the fuse blew with a big flash.
Great video! I have the exact same model. One of the channel recently stopped working (Front Left channel) during music playing ( starts normal but suddenly on and off and then no sound at all), I switched the speaker connected to another channel - Front Right and it worked, which means the speaker and cable are working. Any suggestion as how I can fix that channel (Front Left) ? Really appreciate your advice. Thank you!
If it was intermittent maybe it's a bad solder joint? Try moving the unit while sound is being played and see if it comes back. If it's the "amplifier module", those are hard to find and pretty expensive I'm afraid. Good luck!
Hi everyone, I followed this video as a guide and changed one of the capacitor, now it seems to switch on but the display doesnt show, do you have some idea what can it be?
Some meters have a frequency reading. If yours doesn’t, then I’m afraid you can’t do that. There are very cheap oscilloscopes available though. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I hacked an older Yamaha receiver RX-V630RDS that was doing this but now i'm thinking it might be the super cap for the processor memory, but to get around it i took i think a 4.8V line from the processor vcc and ran it back to PRY. This bypassed the lack of PRY i just advised owner not to leave it plugged in. It was working after fixing a 5v reg. until i dismantled the front in order to clean the volume encoder. After replacing the front panel it no longer had it's PRY. I am now fitting a phono stage for him. About to tackle it now. With the ones with the power amplifier modules they can have different numbers because one can have more channel outputs than the other for central and surround etc. I have also encountered issues with DAC chips in the range that you have there or the ones that use the PCM1681
I have the exact problem on my 371 and the same CAP is badly bulged. Mine after trying to figure out what was going on just stopped powering on altogether. Power button does nothing, no clicks, no nothing. The unit is totally lifeless. I am going to attempt to change the CAP but concerned as to mine went from being just like yours to completely dead. Any idea?!
@tony359 Thanks for the detailed explanations, Refreshed my past quest of electronics. Picked my faulty Yamaha RX-V365, It was in the dead. No AC volts in the secondary of standby transformer, Replaced the fuse in the standby transformer, Started seeing the AC voltage. However, Don't see 9.4 rather getting higher voltage approx 20V AC. Looks like the load is light or no load at all. The schematic looks similar to V371. Any suggestion's, Do i need to look into primary/ secondary circuit or both for faulty resistor or capacitors.
My schematics are always "incorrect" when it comes to voltages. A transformer is a transformer, either it works or it doesn't, I doubt it would suddenly output twice as high voltage. I wonder if some schematics are for 120V and others for 240V? Anyways, I would focus on te voltage regulators. Do you see the correct standby voltages coming out of them? That's required for the CPU to start.
Check the 3.3V generation then. Also try unplugging the cable going to the PC board: if 3.3V are back, then there's a short on the board. What happened to the 24V you were reading before? :)
you did not mention and just wondering did you first try waking it up by pressing a sequence of buttons after it might have gone into damage protection mode, which is what happened with my rx v671, I thought it was dead and gone, eventualy found the right sequence and now working again. Did a overdue firmware update as it was connected to a new 2023 4k tv.
I have the same Av receiver, it went in to protection mode before I bought it second hand , I took it out of protection mode and its been working fine ever since , im guessing in my case I think who ever had it before me just over loaded the amp , with speakers that were drainage to much wattage , however im not really sure , as its not gone back in to protection mode since , I got lucky as I only paid 30 dollars for the amp
If I remember the service manual right, that is a possibility yes. Mine would also work once reset but it would fail after a while. You can check WHY it went into protection mode from the service menu, which is quite comprehensive! Thanks for watching!
It is indeed! It's one of the many testers available, you can find it on ebay. There are maaaaaaany versions but they are inexpensive! Thanks for watching!
there was nothing wrong with it in the first place. These things are notorious for being throw away as the owner thinks theyre fried. I just got one for 20 bucks at Goodwill in perfect, brand new condition. Took me two days to get it to play......like I said--there was nothing wrong with it in the first place
I’m not an expert on Yamaha but I had a look around. Did it happen out of the blue or after a power cut or firmware update? Try unplugging, disconnect everything and then powering it up again. Does it work? Thanks for watching!
My yamaha Rx-V371 receiver is not working, it is on "Protection" mode. Technician said DST chip should be change, but unfortunately i couldn't find it. any solution from you?
it's hard to say. To be honest the 371 is a budget unit so I am not sure it's worth any money. Not sure what the DST chip is but if it's one of the amplifier modules, those are hard to find and kind of expensive so...
Tony I have a Yamaha rx-v367 and I can't control the volume. The control just spins without reaching a minimum or maximum. I suspect that the control in no good. Do you know where I might be able to find a volume control for this?
According to the service manual the volume encoder (it's not a trimmer) is EC12E2460802 and you can find it from electronic distributors. That said, I would maybe inspect the boards and the traces. The little volume PCB (operation(6)) goes to the main OPERATION board. There must be 3.3V and GND going to that board and the volume will return VRA and VRB (volume control pulses). Those pulses only travel through the OPERATION board to then go to the DIGITAL board via CB101 connector. From there, the pulses reach the CPU directly (IC221). Before replacing the encoder I'd check for 3.3V and GND at the little volume daughterboard. If you have an oscilloscope you should be able to see the volume pulses on the VRA/VRB lines (which eventually become VOL_RB and VOL_RA). Good luck! :)
Hi, I need a help. There's an issue with my YAMAHA HTR AVR. Its not turning ON even after following the steps like pressing simultaneously Info+Tune Control+Power ON/OFF button. But when i tried buttons Straight+Tune Control+Power ON/OFF button I can hear some tick tick sound inside the system. What could be the problem? Please share the details how to solve this issue. Thank a lot in advance. Please reply.
I am not a Yamaha expert I'm afraid. Start with downloading the service manual for your exact model - which you haven't mentioned. See what's the correct procedure to get into service mode. Remember that if the unit shut down at some point is for a reason so you'll have to find out what's wrong with it even if you manage to get into the service menu. Good luck.
hello brother, I have an issue on a technics svi , 4.2 millivolts on one channel, all the parts are hopefully okay , what do I do now to get rid of the 4.2 millivolts, and the sound is also a bit distorted at high volume
I have the same problem but with a TSR 5810. I can't even get mine to boot up into diagnostic mode. No reaction. No clicking. I tried all the button combinations even holding power for more than 15 seconds. Won't power at all. Do you have any idea what this might be? I think the microprocessor is frozen up like yours was. Where do you find the service manual? I need one for mine.
I found all the Yamaha service manuals are available here: elektrotanya.com/keres In your case I would go back to the start: do you have voltages out of the power supply/operations board? Please be careful and open the unit up at your own risk. :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Okay, I was able to find mine on hifiengine. It’s got 120v coming in. When I am looking at the schematics page like operation(1), (2), (3), etc. is that the order in which the unit operates? So I should begin looking in operation (1) for problems and then go to the next one if I don’t find anything?
Hey Francisco, I usually google it. I see it's available on elektrotanya.com - I checked and I see that they also have the service manual for the RX-V383. Good luck with your repair!
I'm afraid I am not a Yamaha expert, sorry! If you download the service manual, you might discover the service menu on your 5000. Maybe the tests will point you to something.
You're a master. I wish to have that knowledge for diagnostic my receiver. Maybe you have any ideas why on Audio channel source it has loud noise like pink noise, but on HDMI source working fine? Please see my video about Yamaha RX-V475. Thank you
Thank you! I am no expert but I took a look at the schematics, the block diagram. If HDMI works it means that that route is ok. The difference with the analogue sources is IC 61 which is the ADC (Analogue to Digital Converter). HDMI also goes through there but HDMI is digital already so that section is not used. It looks like the ADC section of IC61 might be malfunctioning. I see this receiver has a very extensive self test and diagnostic menu, take a look at the service manual (available online) and experiment! Good luck!
@@tony359 I took apart receiver and multimeter continuity test showed 1560 between audio signal input and ground connection. Is it normal or it shouldn't show anything? If I good understand signal touching ground? Thank you in advance for any help :)
1560 doesn't seem bad - whether that's intentional or not, I do not know. An input issue wouldn't sound as pink noise. Pink noise is likely digital data. If your input was in a ground loop you'd hear buzzing noise I think.
@@tony359 ru-vid.comX8TXN3KxoGE?si=hzDIEh0fXQBTrrfz This is what I hear though this channel. I surrender. HDMI working fine so I'm not sure what to do and better will be don't perform any other damages ;)
Thank you! The signal was 1.72V peak to peak - 590mV RMS. To be honest I did not think too much about the appropriate level for the test, but the amp was clipping the output around reference level so I thought it was ok. Consumer input level should be -10dBV or 0.316V. If this is RMS - I am not sure - then I wasn't too far away from that! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 thank you. In my case I have the 3.3V rail, but no obvious bulging capacitor, and absolutely no visible reaction when pressing any of the buttons. Could hear a buzz some time ago after a few hours of running, but this morning I woke up to sounds of relay, unplugged it, and it never did anything else ever since. Probably will cost a few hundred bucks/euros to repair, which is borderline uneconomical. Could be a good learning opportunity though:)
I'm not familiar with the 6230 and I don't know what TV you have, I'm afraid I cannot do much from here! Make sure you use the "ARC" HDMI ports - ONLY those ports will send sound back to the receiver - assuming BOTH your TV and your receiver support that. If not, you'll have to use an optical cable, again assuming your TV has an optical port. Good luck!
Excuse me sir, may I ask? I have a Yamaha RX-465 receiver... the bass sound vibrates abnormally... I use a 6" 8 ohm speaker on the front and 2 4" 6 ohm speakers on the R and L... the display flashes when the bass sound? Can you help me?
Hey what if the factory reset doesnt work neither does it have a bulge cap you here the clicks but nothing still happen but only seeing 2.0 at the processor pins how to fix?
All the voltages are coming from the operation board. Disconnect the rest of the AVR and test on that board. You must see proper voltages there. If not, then it’s a supply issue somewhere, likely on the operation board. If you download the service manual it’s easy to follow all the rails and trace them to the source. I hope this helps!
Wondering if anyone can help.. I need to order a remote for a Yamaha RX V573 AV, I am trying to program a universal remote to work with this machine..Thx
Help me find the firmware for the EEPROM chip r1ex24128asas0a. I can not enter the engineering menu. Standby voltage is present. yamaha rx a810. I will be very grateful.
@@LearnTricks1312 16V with 63V is fine. Ideally you want a 105 degrees one and low ESR. A larger capacitor sometimes fits anyways - or may fit with some tinkering. Otherwise you'll have to find a different one.
