Thank you sir. I thought that this was going to be mission impossible and did not look forward to the task. You have given do it yourself guys like me some great guidance here. Thanks...
I do this procedure every year or so. But I always check to make sure I don't miss (forget) something. Thanks for the Video! I usually forget about clamping the brake pedal down. until I'm trying to get the dang brake rod back in! I'll remember today!! Review is always good! -Thanks man! Oh, and nice arm! :D
50 ft-lbs of pressure to tighten those 4 bolts that go into the final drive seems like a lot. That housing is just aluminum. 70ish pounds for the axle nut seems about right. Geez, has anyone out there stripped their final drive housing threads tightening those 4 bolts to 50 pounds?
@@pablo.chacon666 I did not have to purchase any extra parts. The spacer is about 4 inches long. It sits inside the final drive and is not mentioned in this video.
Im in need of the driveshaft part you skipped.ive never done a driveshaft bike.all the other stuff is simple .thats why i looked at ur page .it dod not help
These four nut's, these four screws, these four bolts.... any guesses? No, not nuts. You could almost get away with Machine Screws.... but the proper term is Bolts... these four BOLTS.
Jimmy, at 3:31, the video show the slot which the final drive shaft goes into. There's a rubber piece that prevents dirt from getting into that slot. What is the name of that rubber piece? Thanks.
Grease the splines on the drive shaft before putting it back into the motor. Always grease those splines as that is the only lubrication that they will get until you have the back wheel out next time.
do not "grease" the splines! they are lubed at the factory with 60% moly paste that will last 100,000 miles if you wipe it off and put ANY kind of grease on the splines in about 2000 miles you will be pulling the wheel off again to put a replacement universal and $500 wheel hub on the bike because all the splines will be dry and destroyed! You can ONLY use 60% Moly paste on them, Loctite 51048 the proper lube. and BTW: you can download the official Yamaha Factory Service manual for the Vstar 650 FREE in pdf format from several websites. Then you wont need to watch videos like this that only tell you half the process....
How do you make the gap between the to parts on the final drive unit even, and why will it leak if you don't? Mine started leaking and i noticed the gap is not even....can i take it off and even it up to make it stop leaking or did i screw something up?
Can you provide any advice on the jack itself, I'm having problems sourcing a model suitable, also with regards to the jack will you always have to take the pipes off to be able to jack it up?
It's not the shaft thats backwards, it's the housing. Notice where the 4 bolts are suppose to go. 2 of them go into that bolt on housing where the back of the shaft meets the hub.
Ok I understand. I have to put shim on nut in case of the gap is different between up & down and left & right. The space mut be equal all around the drum. www.650ccnd.com/shaft2.htm
This looks like a job I could do. I am hopefully, goig to go look at a 2008 650 this weekend, which is in Kona, Hawaii. I have heard that driveshaft problems do occur on these (and the Suzuki C50/M50, and wanted to find out how much work it would be to pull the driveshaft and lube all the splined areas. It doesn't look too bad. THanks for the video.
The final gear oil? I have seen a couple of these videos and no one mentions having to drain the oil and if you notice when he removed the tire, the drain plug was still there. None of the other youtubers removed the drain plug, just the bolts shown on this video.
You don't need to drain the gear oil to do this. I just changed my rear tire and I drained the gear oil while the drive was off the bike. I let it sit overnight trickling out. It worked pretty well. Just had to prop it up because it is kind of awkward.
the split between drum and tire housing should be equal all the way around. If not use hands and feet to pull it into place. Then tighten. He failed to mention that the shaft splines should be greased every time you remove the rear wheel. Honda Molly grease is good for that.
You won't see all 4 holes to reinstall the wheel. 2 will be facing towards the wheel which is incorrect and you won't be able to put in 2 of the bolts. Rewind to that part of the vid and watch again. Once you see it it's obvious.
@@ijabbs143 there are no spacers or shims to line up the rear wheel on the 650. The 4 BOLTS that hold the hub to the swing arm hold it tight in place google the Yamha Factory Service Manual for the vstar 650 - its a free download from several websites
@@kenwittlief255 I made my own plastic washers to help with adjustments when it wans't lining it once. 4 the 4 bolts dont always line up perfect and needs help getting lined up
