Hello! Couple of tips from someone that has been in the laser abalation industry for over 10 years. 1.Continuous Wave lasers need to be set at the right frequency of the substrate that is being cleaned. (major difference between chassis frame and truck body substrate frequencies)2. Paint remove on a autobody or anything thinner than 7mills need to be done with a Pulse laser as it uses a diference spectrum type of laser and will not heat the substrate (aka will not heat or warp substrate). 3. Using a 2nd Air source to blow on substrate while cleaning improves colling effect and causes less damage. 4. Have a controller/wand that will let you use multiple patterns and "heavy duty" verses "non-destructive" settings, makes a world of difference in ablation results. Hope this helps!
I believe if you angle the laser so that the angle isnt 90 degress pointing straight down at the object but more at 40-45 degrees itll create a smoother finish. I noticed this finish when he was lasing some curved parts and at times the angle of the laser to these parts was no longer 90 degrees and the laser appears to "scrape" the rust off instead of shooting it off popping up the rust without scratching deep into the surface since its pointed at an angle like a spatula flipping a pancake.
I've seen these before but never thought one of us average folks would have one so this is cool to watch CT. Interesting how sometimes it cleans off the surface rust but not totally down to metal? Maybe going over the areas more or turning up the power on thick rust areas would work?
Did it etch lines int he Magnesium or was that just the laser marks? the seats were really cool. they are super hard to clean with anything laser seemed to be the best option.
I tried to demonstrate that in this video with the 1950s VW Karmann Ghia engine lid. I monitor it with a laser thermostat. It appress to be ok. Of course this could vary depending on how long you stay in one spot and how you spread the heat. Also, you can adjust the power from 0 to 100 to achieve different results.
Does this machine have different patterns? Ive been researching lasers for about 3 weeks now to decide what one to get. Can you adjust the width of the pattern?
I would like to get one of those so I can compare the two. I hear they work good but make a bit of a mess kind of like sand blasting. They all have different surface results.
Thanks for sharing this content. I have a degree in Laser Science from RU-vid University and I can conclude lasers are NOT the way to go for removing rust off auto panels, and wheel rims. Lasers appears to leave a rough surface covered in scratches from the laser and noticed some areas where the rust was heavily built up where the laser only removed the surface rust of the rust piles and left these corrosive piles whereas a sander would knock down everything to a flat and smoother surface than the laser. HOWEVER, the laser cannot be beat when it comes to very detailed, narrow, hard to reach, hard to maneuver tight crevices. Then again a sandblaster could probably match the area coverage in these tight areas if not better since the sand can travel out of a straight line path whereas the laser cannot. (a good example was when he was lasing bolts sticking up creating a perfect shadow of rust behind them. The laser couldnt stretch or bed around the bolts.
I have a 1500cw and a 100w pulse machine. Here’s what I suggest to try, on heavy rust or even the white paint, set your frequency to 5 to 8 khz, maybe even slow down your swing, what I found is you will cut through rough stuff faster, then afterwards I raise my frequency and speed as well as width, this makes like a clean sweep as well as spreads the heat out further and making the heat less direct. Also, between this video and your other video, you are sometime shooting on an angle, it’s more efficient to stay perpendicular to what you are aiming at, keeps your entire beam in that “sweet spot” Try these things out, I’d be happy to hear back what your results are
I recommended it in the comments of last video, and avoided the comments in this video until he got to the VW motor because I didn't want any spoilers. Gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed.
i think that anything you can get in a sandblasting cabinet, then do it, but the laser comes into its own with big metal stuff like the chassis, and parts you cannot get too
Yes, they are pretty cool. Here is a link if you are interested. Check out SFX Laser! www.lyxcmachinery.com/sfx-laser-cleaning-machine-blc1000w1500w2000w3000w-p4390034.html
Simply crazy results looks effortless those rims come up magnificent ready for paint the old wire wheel don't cut it anymore new business on the side CT laser technology its a real blast
Cool machine However, the results are just not quite "finished" quality. I guess the line finish is making the parts look 3d printed gross. Is there a different head attachment to change the rastering path?
Interesting... reminds me, as a kid, of when I'd use a nozzle on a garden hose and write stuff on dirty concrete. ;-) There's a sort of satisfaction. ;-!
Man, I'm so glad I don't own one of those! I'd never get anything done on my projects! I'd spend the entire day zapping stuff. Wheelbarrow? Zap zap zap. My tools? Zap zap zap. My old Dodge D100? Zap zap zap. Storage shed? Zap zap zap.
-- Eventually... you run out of things to zap. It isn't any different than using a media blasting cabinet or even an external blasting setup - you run out of rusty parts at some point. Or the blasting media. Don't ask me how I know that! Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Hi. Your moving the laser-head much to fast. It's not a airbrush-pistol. And when you want to have a really clean surface you must use the beam until on the actual position there is no "sparkling". Greetings !
I think it would be better not to use the device on bearing seats, camshafts or sealing surfaces. Unfortunately, the devices are very expensive and I think if you use them inexperienced you can cause damage.
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