Good review. I have 2 Fender Malmsteen's from the 90's. I've built 2 strats that are similar to the Malmsteen using Warmoth. They have all my personal preferences and cost $1,000 less. And play as good or better.
It's good to mention some differences between the different year ranges. Before the 2007 year, every Fender Official Yngwie model only incorporated a few things that Yngwie actually used on his guitars. 2007 is the first year the guitar was built with all the features Yngwie used on his 70's guitars - deep scallops, Dunlop 6000 frets, brass nut, bullet truss rod classic, fender 70's tuners, machine screwed neck, 3-way switch). The fact that Yngwie himself plays the signature model after that year is proof enough that they are the best examples of his spec. Perhaps the only thing missing is the amber colored neck verses the clear poly.
Very true, but he didn't use them almost exclusively until he got the Duncan YJM pickups in there! The early 2012 up until 2014 are the best quality YJM's IMO
@@xounlistedxox Yeah makes sense. I think lots of year ranges have their own unique properties. For example the 2001-2006 models have many examples that have amazing flame maple necks (some are like custom shop quality)
I just got a 2018 model that plays amazing and has nice figuring in the neck, good wight and plus resonance. Not sure about the duncans vs hs3 though, the duncans have some kind of compression whereas the hs3 and hs4 were weaker but had a more even frequency closer to regular fender single coils. The duncans sound kind of "hyped up", but im not going to swap them. The neck and middle ones have a nice tone but it is the bridge that im not sure about
@@ludvanlazarz very nice guitar you got. The Dimarzio vs Duncan is really preference based. I think if you like Yngwie guitars you have to have both in your collection :D
Yeah, unfortunately the other colors were discontinued in 2010 according to Fender, other than the Custom Shop. The newer ones also seem to have a lot of complaints with the string spacing, or how the fret ends are formed, causing the high and low e to slip off the board very easily.
I have a candy apple red 1988 that i purchased in 1988! i think that was the official first year of the usa made? not 100% sure but I still pull this thing out and blast away on it, never did anything to it. has brass nut, all original and sounds amazing still. the brass nut is expensive... back in 88 this thing cost me a grand! so pretty expensive for the time. i bought this and and amp on store credit lol not a good idea but hey i was young and dumb and wanted this thing! no regrets..
No, I haven't experienced an excessive problem with this, but I've been playing scalloped boards since the mid 90's, so I'm probably a little more used to it than many folks. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can you show more in depth the different scalloped necks how they are different, how deep and the shape of the scalloped using a zoomed image. I didn't know yngwie used active electronics for the 1995 has a treble bass boost tone knob? I guess he used this for the early 90's yngwie records? Does yngwie prefer the thinner bridge blocks instead of thicker bridge blocks?
Yeah, I can do an actual video of the scallops. If you check me other videos I made one with a scallop representation with drawings of the different scallops. Yngwie didn't use active electronics, the TBX on his guitars is passive. YJM has mostly used to traditional large steel bridge blocks of the early 70's
Thanks for the info. Do you feel much difference in playability between the 1st version (vintage frets and shallow scalops) and the later versions? Tks
Glad to help! Good question! The answer is absolutely. The 1st US Version also has a fatter C type neck, whereas 98-Current have a slimmer profile D shape. That's the biggest playability difference. The fret size is noticeable, but you won't touch the wood with any of the US Versions. I would pick what you like based on the features and get it.
I have had 2 2006 models and they both suffered from the high e slipping off the edge.Obviously a Callaham bridge can sort that.Are they all like that?I was thinking of a 2020 model but was concerned it had the same problem?
@@xounlistedxox not really, I have a really light touch, and a friend lend me his V2 with rosewood fretboard. The high E is definitely slipping even when I'm trying to be mindful of it. Other than that, really great guitar. Just wondering if I'll buy it or get a V4 instead.
I'd love one but I have three major issues: No candy apple red version anymore 21 frets instead of 22 And (apparently) the pick up selector is only 3 way which is a massive no-no for me
Sounds like you want a ST71-140YM Japan YJM Signature. They made them in CAR, 5 way switch as well. 21 frets though. Only 22 fret oem scalloped board was the Schecter YM-1
Can you tell us please what is the difference in tone / sound between all the four US YJM Strats versions and wich version you like the best and for what reason ?
@@xounlistedxox Do you think the US YJM Strat vers. 3 (from 2007 to 2012) sounds better than the US YJM Strat vers. 2 (from 1998 to 2006) ? I have an US YJM vers. 2 from 2005 like yours with rosewood fretboard . But i want to buy the second one with maple fretboard and I can't decide between US YJM 2 vs US YJM 3 . Do think the one with rosewood has a deeper sound ?
@@CalinRo1981 versions 2 and 3 are nearly identical. The main differences are the scallop shapes and bullet truss rod or not. They sound pretty much the same. You'll definitely notice more of a difference from a rosewood board vs. a maple board than version 2 vs. 3
@@xounlistedxox Can you make please , when you got the time , a clip comparation between US YJM vers. 2 rosewood (2005) vs US YJM vers. 2 maple (2005) vs US YJM vers. 3 maple . To play the same parts on all three of them , with the same amp. and od pedal , to be able to hear the difference in overdriven tone on the riffs also on the lead sound . Thank you so much for your answer sir .
