In this video I discuss how well the Yong Heng compressor is holding up. THIS IS PART 1. PLEASE WATCH PART 2 FOR IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE BLEED VALVE THREADS.
I think there are a multitude of reasons that people's compressors fail on them. I think it's more of a lack of understanding the physics behind it, and less neglect. I've watched several videos of people's repairs on their Yong Heng compressors. All of them revolve around the piston rings, cylinders, flapper valves, etc.... These are all parts of the high pressure side of the compressor. So here is my theory, and here's what I've done to avoid them. #1. You are dead on correct when you say to bleed the air before turning off the machine. Not only does this drain the gross oil/water mixture that has collected in the compression process, but it relieves the massive amount of pressure pushing against the piston head. On the Yonh Heng compressor, there is only 1 piston. But it's a 2 stage compression process. The piston controls 2 functions- high and low pressure. Higher end compressors have 2 or more pistons. Each piston typically controls a specific stage in the compression process. If you ever removed the shroud from the cooling fan on the back of the compressor while the compressor is off, and rotate the fan, you can cycle the piston and hear/create a compression. If you can do that with your hand, imagine the force that would push against that piston if you stopped the compressor mid pump without bleeding off the pressure first. NOT GOOD! But I think another problem people have, even if they bleed off the pressure before shutting off the machine is when they're pressurizing their air hose to charge the tank, and when the hose gets to the "approximate" tank pressure, and they open the valve on the tank. If the pressure in the tank is higher than the pressure in the compressor, then there's a massive push back against the high pressure piston on the compressor. It's very sudden and shocking, and it could be catastrophic to the piston if the pressures are significantly different. Knowing this, here's what I did. I suggest anyone and everyone who owns one of these compressors do this. Buy this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HL1M8XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M37FYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This creates a self regulating, unidirectional check valve. You put this inline between the compressor hose and the tank hose. Obviously the air flow goes through the fill nipple adapter, and out the male quick disconnect. When I use this, I plug the male quick disconnect into the female quick disconnect on my tank, and open the valve all the way. Then I plug the fill nipple adapter end into the female quick disconnect on my compressor. The high pressure in the tank will close the valve on the male fill nipple from the back side (just like it does on the air cylinder on your air rifle tank). When the pressure on the compressor supersedes the pressure of the tank that's keeping the valve closed, the valve will open, and air will start flowing into the tank. It's self regulating, and it's seamless. It adds zero additional stress on the pistons of your compressor. You can actually see the point that the regulator opens because the gauge on the compressor and the gauge on the tank have subtle differences in "actual pressure" readings. You will see the gauge on the compressor move slightly, and the progress of the fill will slow significantly. And because the valve is a 1 way check valve, when you open the drain valve on the compressor just before shutting it off, the pressure in the tank will close the valve again from the back side. Then you simply close the valve on your CF tank, and bleed off the air in the hose. All done, with zero imbalance or unnecessary pressure on your pistons or cylinders. The 2nd issue people are having is with the aluminum (water cooled) heat sync on top of the cylinder head. It's corroding from the inside. When you add heat to unfiltered tap water, it mineralizes and calcifies. Not only does this eventually impede the flow of the water, but it promotes and expedites pitting and corrosion. So the fix to this is simple. Distilled water! Distilled water is evaporated and re-condensed. It has zero chemicals or minerals in it. Get yourself a 5 gallon bucket, and buy yourself 3 gallons of distilled water. It only costs $1.50 per gallon. Keep the water sealed in the bucket with a lid. This can be your permanent cooling supply for your compressor. You just need to make room for it. The way you cool the water is to stick 2 or 3 water bottles in your freezer and get them frozen solid. When the temperature of the compressor starts to get close to the max operating temp, drop in 1 or 2 of the frozen water bottles. By doing this you can actually cool the water without contaminating it. It works flawlessly. Also, when you're done using your compressor, and you shut it off and disconnect the water hose, there is STILL water sitting inside of that little hollow aluminum heat sync. Get a compressor with an air nozzle on it, stick it onto one of the little water intake ports, and squeeze it off. Stand back, because you will be AMAZED how much water comes out. But you can blow air into it for about 20 seconds, and get that thing bone dry inside. So that's my input to your video. I'm not trying to hijack it or anything. I know other people (as well as myself) have spent a LOT of money on their compressors, and they want it to last as LONG AS POSSIBLE! Remember, a wise man learns from his mistakes, but a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others.
Thank you for the information. That all makes sense. I too have put a check valve on my cga347 fill whip. This way I can open the tank before start the compressor with any pressure on the compressor. Then start the pump once the pressure excess the pressure in the tank the one way valve opens allowing the tank to be filled.
Great info and very useful, thanks! However, I am still unclear what is the full process of opening/closing valve knobs on Yong Heng compressor itself. Mine is manual version and has two valves: one is called Pressure Relief Valve (its next to whip hose connection point) and other one is called Drain Valve (located on opposite end of the compressor, next to safety valve). When you say what is the exact sequence to open/close them when used in conjunction with 1-way check valve between tank and compressor as you described?
I just got mine today and the instructions say to have the bleeder valve open on startup, which is even more important. I also blow out the water lines when done. Why let that water stay in the water jacket? I use distilled water too. That was a no-brainer for me since I have well water. Good tips.
They should be sending you free stuff. I am just getting into getting a PCP Air rifle to shoot in my backyard and shot iguanas in south Florida, have 10s of them each day in my yard. All young and going to get big. So i am getting ready for them. I will buy this compressor. can i pump it directly into mt Hatsan Rifle. Hatsan Flash. Plesee advise. I will get a scuba tank as well. They are cheap here certified and on Craigslist for $60 to 100, and infact $6 bucks to fill. don't need the hasssle of going back and forth.
Yes, the yong Heng can fill directly into your Airgun. Check out Erlis Vidal on you tube. His channelm is iguana Hunter. He is also in South Florida. Good luck and safe shooting
The pistons should be pushing the air through a one way check velve so when it shuts off and on the down strock there is no pressure on the piston. I don’t know about this particular compressor but I’ve never seen a HPA comp. without a check valve directly above the piston. If you ever take the piston head off. Usually incorporated with the burst disk (but not always) the check valve should be just a tiny spring and a fitted price of Deleon directly above the piston.
Suggestion On the valve on bottom of the gold filter install a tee, put a 2" long pipe nipple and bleed valve on the bottom of the tee to collect water. Connect the fill line from the compressor to the side of the tee. This will allow water to collect in the pipe nipple. This system is used on nateral gas service lines to collect water.
The reason that the air in your tank smells like oil is because there are microns of oil that slip past the filters and into the tank under the extremely high compression. The particles are so small they are almost vaporized (gas). If you go to the aquarium section of your local pet store, and buy some activated charcoal and mix it in with your desiccant beads, you will eliminate this. Activated charcoal is used in aquarium filtration systems to remove nastiness before it gets into the fish tank. It's also used in gas masks. It's the best filter in the world! And it's all natural. It probably wouldn't take more than 3 or 4 tablespoons mixed in with your desiccant should completely eliminate that issue. Or you could do separate layers of desiccant and charcoal. Maybe a layer of the desiccant, then a separate layer of the charcoal before it passes through the last cotton filter and into your scuba tank. Just a suggestion.
Normally them separators are a 3 part system. An activated charcoal is one of the three layers in identical separators sold on eBay for it. I need to do more research because I was hoping to pick one of these up for scuba tanks an actual breathing air. Maybe I’ll pick up two of the 2 of the 3 part separators and put them in series and get a third blank one and put cotton at the inlet and completely fill the rest with activated charcoal and a inch or two of the cotton. So it travels a full separator length of carbon.
@@AquaTech225 I just found this thing, I’m interested in building into my RV conversion to fill SCUBA tanks. The local shops compressor uses a food grade oil, looking into seeing if it’s similar to the “46” hydrologic oil. I would also fit it with the proper breathing gas filters, and have the air tested frequently.
@@evangelon2 Lube-V is what I used..synthetic food grade. I use my compressor for scuba I previously wrote to him->I use an auto shutoff just for safety in case I'm not paying attention. I saw you get calcium deposits, maybe a little "CLR" in the water when you use it will get rid of the lime scale. Also if oil smell is an issue, you could just get another one or two filters to increase the cleaning effect of the air. I use it for my own scuba stuff. I have four filters including the little tiny one. Cotton, desiccant, molecular sieve, and carbon. Also scuba compressors use food grade synthetic oil, so it isn't dangerous really if there is an issue with some getting in the air. I have a small sailboat, a Catalina 30. I have this compressor tied into our 25 gallon tank with a 1.7 gpm pump feeding coolant water that basically always comes from a watermaker. So the water is blasting through the head compared to the little pump that came with it. Oh I added a vibration hour meter so I know when to change the oil. Another thing I added was a quite long(2x52") whip extension to allow me to fill tanks while leaving the compressor mounted in the cabinet. I also added desiccant filled pvc pipes on the air intake with valves to shut the air off so it doesn't fill the desiccant with water filled ambient air while not in use....since I am on the ocean I need a little drier air to go into the unit in the first place.
Great video. Maintenance is key to everything. As long as you use proper care and maintenance is done this compressor should last years. The other thing is as you said in the video use proper fittings these and any compressor are dangerous. Now i feel that after your video i will now drop the cash to order this compressor. Thank you again for your reviews.
You said you aren't a genius, on this subject, compared to me you are! 😎 I'm just getting into the PCP airgun world and I have a lot to learn, this looks like a pretty good place to start learning about the special compressors and support equipment we need.
Edgunleshiy channel (super cool guy by the way) but I call him the squirrel annihilator 😏, was giving big props to your slugs bro. Incase you didn't know. I didn't know you make and sell them. I tried to go to your site that he had linked and I couldn't find the shopping cart botton. Is it fixed yet?
Thank you! Yes, I close down the shopping cart when orders become overwhelming. I don't want to get to the point where I can not fulfill orders in a timely manner.
It's great that it's affordable and all. Great that parts are easy to find. What gets me is this after market stuff shown here. For fairly new PCP shooters this was like, uh, what did I just hear. It's my opinion that with the amount of money being spent at every step of being a PCP air rifle shooter, at least the air pump should be out of the box ready. I did see someone mention that one of those parts now ships with it. I hope so.
Just an update to a common question! I have not been able to find the correct part to make the bleed valve work properly so here is what I plan to buy to replace or maybe add to the correct yellow filter I have. For $130 this sounds like a good all in one solution. You may also be able to find it on AliExpress. Here is the link to Amazon 30Mpa High Pressure Air Filter External Water-Oil Separator Filtration for Air Compressor Air Pump Scuba Diving www.amazon.com/dp/B077SX5G9V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_YkjFCbJ97FBBS Also, use this one way quick disconnect nipple on the cga347 fill setup to be able to open the tank before starting the compressor and to be able to shut and bleed the compressor before shutting the tank with out losing air in the tank. IORMAN Universal 8mm Quick-Disconnect Plug Adapter 1/8" BSPP Male Thread Paintball Fittings www.amazon.com/dp/B07HL1M8XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_JpjFCb8RBY07E
I don’t see how an auto shut off can stress the unit, there is a check valve that prevents pressure from going backwards in the system. Or am I mistaken?
Dive shops used to charge cylinders in a tank of water. In the event of failure of the cylinder, the water mitigates the bang. There's a lot of energy in a full cylinder...
Well the water may mitigate the bang, but if an air cylinder fails, it can kill people nearby. Incredible amount of energy contained. Years ago, there were several deaths from aluminum dive tanks that people had powder-coated and then heated, thereby weakening the cylinder walls. Some of them exploded upon being filled.
I like my auto shutoff because I don't own a tank and fill the gun directly, My gun is a Wildcat and it has the gauge at the end by the fill probe hole, I prefer to set the auto shutoff and step away vs putting my face down by the gauge to tell when it is full.
I disagree about the pressure putting stress on the piston and crankshaft when the motor is turned off as there are check valves within the compressor head which prevents back flow. Without them, the air would not compress, it would just move back and forth with the movement of the piston.
Great video, but I have one improvement, make one layer molecular sieve and one layer activated carbon or if you want, I don't know how expensive activated carbon is in the US, you can make a complete molecular sieve with activated carbon
Thanks a Million for the great update & info... I've been waiting for this Video... :) I glad for you and the rest of us the the Yong Heng Setup is Going Strong.... Good Stuff man!!! Ive Heard about the 30 year tanks. Ive heard tho. (Hear Say) That If You Have a Tank Extended Thru that Company for The 30 years that You have to go back to that company and that company ONLY to have your 5 year Hydro updates after the extension which depending on prices with them + shipping could possibly get expensive just depending but I dunno... Def worth checking into more. Plus ither way it good that they atleast started extending some SCBAs to 30years ither way regardless. ...Welp Thanks Again for the Update here and You have a Great Day man... PEACE!
What’s your thoughts on also putting one of the little filter/dryer that comes with the Yong Heng on the fill line from the carbon fiber tank before it goes into the gun I’m thinking if there is any moisture in the tank this may help. Just my thought.
So I found your channel and immediately subbed it because you are very detailed in your content! Do you still think that the Yong Heng is the best compressor out there to get now after so many years?
So are you under the misconception that the pressure on the piston, piston rod, and crank at auto shut off is any different than the pressure while it is pumping? Because it is not any different. Now obviously if its pumping as you said for 40 minutes, that is technically the only time it has that pressure, and if you went to sleep, allowing it to auto shutoff, you would leave that pressure on it for hours rather than minutes. But assuming you check on it every 15 to 20 minutes, heck even 30 minutes, you be putting minimal additional pressure on it. I just wouldn't leave it like that for half a day or more.
I have been looking at the Yong Heng's on ebay, I am noticing that these compressors don't have the Yong Heng decal on the side. The ones on eBay have a plate which reads YH. I remember you mentioned counterfeit compressors. Any feedback.
the auto shutoff is fine, the one way valve stops pressure from from leaking backwards and even if some gets to the pistons, it takes very little force to rotate the assembly backwards, so if anything u get one stroke of the piston going backwards, not a big deal ;)
This is my 3rd video I started to watch of yours, I couldn’t get through ant of them. Yes the material is what I want to hear, you’re very knowledgeable and experienced. I know more it’s my issue, but it would help if you would meet me in the middle by working on being more concise. I was forced to move on.
Sorry i'm not convinced by your logic regarding shutting off and auto shut off. Auto shut off surely the check valve closed so there is no pressure on the piston at that point. By opening the pressure release surely you are removing load from the piston at speed where it is working under load and therefore throwing the piston and rod into an over rev condition, causing potential rod failure? i could be completely wrong... thanks for the information
what if you set the auto shut-off valve to a higher value than the one you want to fill. If you forget to check in time by someone who is disturbing you, this safety will still do its job before the maximum safe pressure of the bottle is reached!
Why add the PVC and O-rings? Why not just use pieces of the original cotton filter on each end and your desiccant in between? It seems to me that all you did was reduce the volume capacity of the filter.
if you smell oil in the air I will personally not use it at all . Oil particles will travel to your lungs and big health issue will come out . I think is not worth it but that's me . I have a total of 14 80cc and I always filled at my local scuba shop
So does the compressor also have a water pump in it to circulate the coolant? I cant see a power lead going into your icebucket so i guess you do not have a submerged pump in it and i couldn't see a pump along the hoses from the compressor and to the icebucket.
First off Thanks for the video. My ? is could you post a List of the parts needed for the filter and the fitting Part # or Link to them. I've looked around but can't find what you have. Video time of parts starts at 4:59. Again thank you.
There is a filter made with the bleeder on the side rated to 4500psi. Have you seen it ? The air goes in the top center. Comes out near the top on the side. Bleeder is on the side at the bottom of the air chamber.
I too have the YH compressor and for about the same amount of time and, I too love mine. Yes, a nice new Omega or Daystate compressor would be more elegant but, when you can get these drop-shipped to your door for under $300 (Walmart), why? I can buy 6 YH compressors for less than the MSRP before tax and shipping vs 1 Omega. PS: your channel is coming along nicely. I think your focus on wallet friendly mid-range PCPs is a plus. I've got the money for a FX Impact 700mm barrel but, by buying the Hatsan Hurcules Bully I saved over $1K USD and got a great gun, at a higher FPE and that is comparable in accuracy for hunting purposes. If I were competing for Extreme Benchrest 2019, well I might go for that Impact but, let's face it, 99.99% don't do that kind of shooting so why pay for that kind of accuracy when we will likely never use it?
I know how you can stop the oil fumes form getting into your tank 100% after your new filter put another one made the same as yours but with cat letter in between the 2 cotton ends the clay type this will absorb all oils this will suck oil out of cement .
I also purchased 2 spare shut off relays and a rebuild kit . Have had mine for about as long or longer than you have . I’ve had zero issues and haven’t used my spare parts yet . Like this compressor so much I actually bought a 2nd one just for fun 😂 and before everyone wants one and the prices go up ! There outstanding for the money 👍 only upgrade I did was bought a higher flowing water pump and it cools much better . Fantastic review!!
I am afraid your adsorbent wont work on pulling out the moisture from the air. There is no way the moisture can escape the tube - you are just collection water until the adsorbent is satisfied with water - then it wont work anymore. The physics behind is PSA - pressure swing adsorbtion - meaning you must give time and opportunity for the water to escape the adsorbent by releasing the pressure again. So the hole idea wont work i think - you will collect most of the moisture in your tank. P.S. i see you put a bleeding valve underneath - thats fine but i think you have to use it much more often because the molecular sieve will be satisfied with water quite quickly. I have an oxygen concentrator and it uses two sieves in sequence: one is pressurized and the other one released to get rid of the nitrogen. It changes every 2-3 seconds!
I have had equally satisfying results with my compressor. As usual, your videos extremely thorough and very unbiased. I absolutely enjoy your content, keep up the great work.
Thanks for posting this. Im in the process of adding the molecular seive to my set up. I like your bleeder valve idea, can you list the parts you used ? Thanks
I bought this compressor about three weeks ago to fill my new Nova Liberty. I inspected both the rifle, pump and molecular sieve all seemed to be well made and clean. However, The pump manufacture suggested for first run to open bleed valves then with auto shut off set run pump unconnected until it reaches set pressure. So here what happened. The pump didn’t make pressure because the foster valve was bleeding air. So a checked my bench drawer where I keep the spare pump parts looking for a block off probe. So the question is does the foster valve act like the one on my shop air line or need a block off probe. Now that I’am into this I’am even getting more out of this video. Pumped the rifle up short of its max bars for a first test very little time to fill, low temperature and worked flawless. So question block off probe or no block off probe needed? Thanks again.
You will need the block the air off using a dead head adapter. Here is the one I use. The quick disconnect foster fitting will not stop air automatically. airtanksplus.com/product/dead-head-male-foster-fitting/
I realize this is an older video. can you recommend , by giving a web page address for a Yong Heng Compressor today The warranty seams nice, but some are complaing they're not getting the Yong Heng compressor. Like you I would like one without the auto shut off. thx
Great vid! Just got my in today. Waiting for the desicant tube to come over from China. Anyhow, what size media are you using? 1/4", 3/16"? They come in a couple of different sizes. Thanks again!
what do you think of using auto coolant instead of water. it does protect against corrosion. Or 50/50 glycol solution that is used for high powered LED cooling systems? thanks.
Anti freeze will not work it’s mainly used to keep car engine for freezing. In the summer you can use plain water in your car. Plus the chemicals in it may deteriorate your rubber o-rings.
@@AirVelocitySport I really like your video .i am a disabled Vietnam veteran .i an trying to get a veterans shooting team going for our golden age games .you just may have saved us a whole bunch of cash . mow we can look at Pcp rifles . the cost was a big concern of ours . wow great stuff YOU CAN bet your video will be shared with my chapter of the disabled American veterans and Vietnam veterans of America .very very good thank you some much 👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
Wow! I'm so glad my video helped. Thank you for your service to our country. One thing I want to mention is don't use hydraulic oil as it burning to easy and leave residue on the high pressure piston. plus it smells? I use something called secco lube 500 (1 gallon for $59 at www.filtertechs.com - it will last a long time) which his much cleaner. I have other people tell me they use Royal Purple oil.
@@AirVelocitySport thank you for that .may I ask what you do use .this is so helpful .this is viewed by over 3000 veterans next Monday . I have having our commanders shart to all members in our email list .this is so helpful This saves us 1000s . that means more rifles for the golden age game this spring .👍👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
I use mine for scuba I previously wrote to him->I use an auto shutoff just for safety in case I'm not paying attention. I saw you get calcium deposits, maybe a little "CLR" in the water when you use it will get rid of the lime scale. Also if oil smell is an issue, you could just get another one or two filters to increase the cleaning effect of the air. I use it for my own scuba stuff. I have four filters including the little tiny one. Cotton, desiccant, and carbon. Also scuba compressors use food grade synthetic oil, so it isn't dangerous really if there is an issue with some getting in the air. I have a small sailboat, a Catalina 30. I have this compressor tied into our 25 gallon tank with a 1.7 gpm pump feeding coolant water that basically always comes from a watermaker. So the water is blasting through the head compared to the little pump that came with it. Oh I added a vibration hour meter so I know when to change the oil. Another thing I added was a quite long(2x52") whip extension to allow me to fill tanks while leaving the compressor mounted in the cabinet. I also added desiccant filled pvc pipes on the air intake with valves to shut the air off so it doesn't fill the desiccant with water filled ambient air while not in use....since I am on the ocean I need a little drier air to go into the unit in the first place.
what do you think is the best air compressor? I know air force has a new 1 that's portable & u can even plug it in a wall outlets or car battery $850 ..& air venturi has 1 that's similar but cheaper at $500 it's called the nomad 4500...great video & information
Gerald Williams I like the Hatsan lightening compressor for around $1300. I'm not a fan of the smaller portable compressors because of the limitations. But I can see where the portable compressors could be valuable.
I have this setup, the yellow filter door cap is blocked after single using, now im unable open it to look the filters inside the tube, but the compressor works fine
Some of the basic fittings and bleed valves, NPT only but none of the BSPP or metric thread stuff. airtanksplus.com/product-category/pcp-airgun-fittings/
I use an auto shutoff just for safety in case I'm not paying attention. I saw you get calcium deposits, maybe a little "CLR" in the water when you use it will get rid of the lime scale. Also if oil smell is an issue, you could just get another one or two filters to increase the cleaning effect of the air. I use it for my own scuba stuff. I have four filters including the little tiny one. Cotton, desiccant, molecular sieve, and carbon. Also scuba compressors use food grade synthetic oil, so it isn't dangerous really if there is an issue with some getting in the air. I have a small sailboat, a Catalina 30. I have this compressor tied into our 25 gallon tank with a 1.7 gpm pump feeding coolant water that basically always comes from a watermaker. So the water is blasting through the head compared to the little pump that came with it. Oh I added a vibration hour meter so I know when to change the oil. Another thing I added was a quite long(2x52") whip extension to allow me to fill tanks while leaving the compressor mounted in the cabinet. I also added desiccant filled pvc pipes on the air intake with valves to shut the air off so it doesn't fill the desiccant with water filled ambient air while not in use....since I am on the ocean I need a little drier air to go into the unit in the first place.
so many thx - I need your very good explainings - because I bought the Yong Heng and the water sampler from Amazon - now HPA Tank 68/4500 - has 350 bar - for my Scuba Ringer and small airguns .
I'm the 1000th like ! Mine has a slow oil leak from running it with the oil cap on instead of a breather. I didn't know and mine didn't come with a breather. I don't think it's from the face, so where might be another place for a leak to form ?
The descent will hold a lot more moisture when the temp of the air is higher. But at room temp they both hold about the same amount. When filling your bottle the air will be warm making IMOP desiccant the better option. Good video.
Is there any reason a guy couldn't skip using the PVC pipe? Push the cotton filter all the way to one end, fill it up with the absorption material, add the second filter, screw the cap back in place and be done with it. No unfiltered air could slip between the outside of the 1" PVC pipe and the metal tubing wall.
looks like someone would have come up with a unload-er like large compressor which is a check valve that can be adjusted to activate with auto shutoffs work safely.
Regarding auto shut off verses none. I don't have one of these compressors, but judging the size of the high pressure piston I've seen on other videos, it looks to be about 1/2 inch diameter. Doing the calculations, at 4500 psi, the force on the piston is about 880 pounds. You must realize that the crank and piston rod for the low pressure section was designed to work at that force. It is probably designed to take much more, otherwise it would fail soon after being used for a while. I don't think you have much to be concerned about.
Agreed, looking here the pressure piston that would be under 4500 PSI and indeed is about 1/2 inch, and with the diameter of the piston being about 3 inches in diameter - significantly less pressure than the tiny pressure piston, I'll trust your wisdom and calculation if you say the piston has about 880 pounds. That said, I've read of many others stressing the importance to relieve the pressure prior to shutting down. All manuals seem to stress this point, even if it's a huge commercial unit like this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BHarmjVVw_M.html
good video. watched all of them. The laws of physics makes your point about leaving it in stress. going to do exactly as you stated using the bleed valves
The auto shut off I find helpful as I have 2 of thease that fill my 3 hpa tasks for airsoft 2 medium-sized and a small one the small one I run on one pump that is on auto and leave it to run whilst I keep an eye on the large tanks filling
Marcelo Lima the seller was on eBay but no longer sells them. There are many other sellers on eBay, Amazon, Ali Express and other places. My tanks are 88cu ft. They are awesome. I use two at a time when I go shooting but never need to go to the second tank. One 88cu ft has always been enough to shoot all day.
@@marcelolima4172 two tanks. That's crazyness. I got a guy who sells the 88cf (60 min) scba tanks with plenty years left. For like 200. Where I live they hydro them for 20 bucks. I have that 88cf too. And on a full 4500. I fill my 200 bar pcp 35 times easy to about 3500 give or take. That's a good weeks worth of shooting i On a daily.
I'll give you credit for being smarter than you think! At 19:35 you discuss the bleed valve being BELOW the drying tank . GREAT, it's just where it should be (not within the drying tank itself). Though it should be stressed that after shutting down and releasing pressure, the bleed value SHOULD REMAIN OPEN, with the drying tank remaining vertical and the bleed value positioned UNDER the drying tank. This is critical for the condensed water to drain out using the earth's gravitational force! Otherwise, the beads will remain wet and lose their effectiveness. Also, the main reason for using something strong and non-metallic like the PVC pipe and cotton surrounding the beads is to ensure the wet beads DO NOT TOUCH METAL, which causes the dangerous acidic erosion process to stress the metal. Rusted metal threads can deteriorate the seal and mechanical strength of the unit, leading to a blowout at 4500 PSI - VERY DANGEROUS!! See this video at minute 3 and 30 seconds for more details: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-94_P9urb8jA.html
I have a similar setup but I went another step further with another smaller filter after my gold tuxing gold filter ( that I too hacked with the pvc and industrial grade molecular sieve). This final stage additional filter is slightly larger than the primary cotton one but I have blue / pink indicator dessicant sandwiched between the cotton filters. I don't have a Yong Heng pump but a one that is similar...a Yong Heng knock off I guess. Hard to believe the Chinese would knock off their own products but there you go! Had no issues at all but not had my gold filter vertical so maybe I should change that. Also, I like the bleed valve on the end of the tuxing, I think I will try that.... but my final stage with the indicating beads showed 0% moisture at the end of a full charge of a 4.5l tank. Thanks for making the effort to post this!
It is supposed to hinder acid leaching from the molecular sieve / desiccant to deteriorate the walls of the aluminum tube or the threads. I am not 100% sure if that is fact or just fear-mongering buy vendors.
The simple answer is that excessive moisture in the air is produced while under pressure, which must be dealt with BEFORE entering the storage tank (while under pressure). Thus, a process is needed while under 4500 psi to remove the moisture prior to entering the storage tank. And yes, you are correct about the subsequent acid problems if water is allowed to enter the storage tank.
I have only replaced it once in a year and half. I fill my tank in a garage with air-conditioning so the ambient air very dry which helps to keep moisture down. It depends on the climate you fill your tanks in.
