Some of the things you are doing here are very much going to shorten its life. like shutting it off before letting out some pressure through both bleed valves also putting a fan infront of the unit, while the factory one is pushing forward essentially both fans blowing at each other and the airflow is all wrong and hot air is still hanging around there. I attached a 200 cfm inline blower to the handle and tilted it downwards pointing it at both cylinder heads so that it is pushing it away from the unit but in the same direction. You can feel a ton of hot air coming at you if you stand infront of it. That would have otherwise been just cooking stuff within the unit.
Never shut the thing off without first opening the low and high pressure valves dude... Do you realize how hard that is on the internals when you shut it off without doing that?
Hey Robair - I always loosen both my valves also before turning it off as well. Was I seeing things? Was that temperature gauge reading 964°F that's 518° C. I was told not to exceed that "Yong Heng" compressor temperature to 60° C/ 140° F but that it was safer to shut it off at 55C/ 131F. I never fill my air guns tank from empty, I refill it when it reaches 2,500 psi. My shots always taper off pass 2,500, and I never run my compressors temperature pass 55°C/131°F. I also saw on a RU-vid video where they were using "ionized water" with this "Wetter" solution to cool the compressor. They said using this won't corrode or deteriorate the metals inside the compressor.
You can also make a cool system with radiator and coolent so you don't have to use the beer ice but your right the heat is the death of most of these pumps. Great video 👍✌️👌💯🎯
Nice! Good points and ideas, just ordering gaskets and 0-rings from Ebay.......coming from China so am sure it will be a while before they get here. Had mine for 3 years now and finally the one way valve started bypassing due to bad o-rings. While at it I decided to tear it down and clean things up/inspect them. Really a fairly straight forward machine to take apart. Still don't know where some of the black and little green o-rings go or the white plastic discs....Thanks for the tips.
Noticed you turned off the compressor before unscrewing the two release nuts for oil/moisture and air pressure? Was told that is a mistake and places undue stress on the compressor. It may cause added stress on the system apparently. I also believe that you should run the compressor after releasing the pressure so that the temperature on the compressor assembly cools faster. Hope this helps.
One suggestion and I already know you're not going to like it. lol But try replacing the beer with some good antifreeze. It has inhibitors to prevent oxidation of modern aluminum engine blocks. Water and heat are eating the inside of the compressor head for lunch. Yeah I know, beer tastes better! I said it's just a suggestion. lol
The tanks sold at pyramydair are not just simply repurposed with a regular hydro and visual inspection, they go through a process of recertification with ultrasounds type of machinery and it cost about 300$ to us individuals. Just buy a new one every 15years, save 50$ per year and you will have enough money to buy another bottle, compressor and pay for the hydros test every 15 years.
Actually, when I'm working with plate heat exchangers the flow of liquid is above whatever velocity causes turbulence. That's when the most heat transfer occurs so doubling the water velocity should have more than double effect. Assuming it wasn't turbulent before.
Thank you for posting video. Sorry if I missed the answer, what is aquarium temp. gauge reading/measuring ? It appears gauge would be reading blue sheetmetal of exterior case ?
The gauge is plugged in to the head. It never goes over 98 degrees F no matter how long I run it. As long as I have ice and water it stays well below 100F
I have a hotloop temperature gauge I bought from Walmart the probe that is seeing the original head of the unit is smaller than the probe that I have on the new Gage. The original one is .15 inches the new probe is .19 inches may I enlarge the hole.
I just ordered one of these, so appreciate all the windy tips:) Could I trouble you for some links to your add-ons? Was looking for your desiccant housing in particular.
Anybody reading this...Do not push those pumps to 4500psi! They are 4350psi pumps. You might get away with it or have gotten away with it but you're exceeding the limits.
There is a small hole on the back of the aluminum cylinder head just in front of the carry handle. Just push the temp probe into the hole and that's it. The probe will only go approximately halfway in so don't try to force it all the way in . Hope this helps.
From checking around Walmart Has a contract with them I got mine there with couple yr warranty no questions for 30-40$ extra it does not have the logo on the unit thou but I could careless it works great for my use currently just filling the gun. You can check on Walmart it shows the agreement certification cheers
Do not shut machine off before releasing valves it’s extremely hard on piston and crank and other components you’re ruining it slowly but surely trust me I work on these type of things for a living
Definitely getting a compressor what a joke trying to fill a bottle is lady tells me must be scuba certified but you can go to paintball store they will do it? Am I the only one who thinks that is nuts is it a legal issue? But I can fill it a block away whats the dam difference? If my tank is up to date can I please get some air. So beware if you go buying a 600$ carbon tank you may need scuba certified to fill dam things.
