Every time i consider starting racing, i realize how difficult the art of racing is. The knowledge behind the technical know how, makes my brain have melt down. So much knowledge here .. nice video as always bro.
I've known of anti roll bars for many years. when I was young my dad always taught me to focus more on suspension and setup than pure power in racing. but this is the most concise and detailed explanation I've ever seen anyone give before. lots of people don't understand it because there are few good explanations of it out there.
I'm applying some of your techniques to off road carpet racing and it seems to be working. Fast lap times for stock 17.5 blinky class is mid 17's and because of your videos I'm running low 18's and breaking onto high 17 second lap times . I feel like I'm finally catching up to the faster guys
lol i wasnt wrong. i used to debate with my friends at the track. they claimed thicker roll bars increased traction. i would counter that thicker bars decreased traction. i knew i was right haha. thicker bars do increase traction on the opposite end of the chassis, and no one believed me ...
The course is awesome, watched all of it, totaly worth the money many times, go and get it if you are racing. For me it was i finaly understand why i made that change not because of previous expirience, but because of knowledge. Last race was for me like drive 1 tank, completly changed car in 1 go with my new knowledge and it drives nearly perfect, and then i made only minor changes trough the day. Get it it will change your rc racing life for sure.
Can you make a video on how the height the roll bar is from the arm changes its effects I assume shorter distance engagement will be sooner but idk if it's a factor
JQ you must've read my mind on this topic I was just wondering for the past week about which way I needed to go on changing my antiroll bars thank you for dropping this video just in time!
Excellent video, JQ... a well-deserved *THANK YOU* from me! *Question:* what about anti-roll bar preload, or the choking-up of the bar in the collets? What is that used for? If it's used for increasing "thickness" (tension) of the bar in use, as intermediate values, then at what point does one increase, or step up, the thickness of the bar?
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Wow, I’ve finally found someone who not only gives great advice, but also goes to all the trouble of fully explaining why, and what does what do you truly can think for yourself instead of just making quick decisions. This definitely is the best R/C channel I’ve come across yet. And I’ve already subbed, and hope to make my way through the library of old videos! Thanks so much for putting in your time and experience for our benefit. I’ve always been a monster truck guy, but recently got my hands on a very decent buggy, with great options for set up and can be adjusted with the best of them. It helps me so much! Again, thanks for the information, it shall go to good use! 👍👍👍👍👍🍾🍾+🏆🏆= 😀 Maybe? Lol!
Awesome video ! This may help me out with my recent experience with my kyosho TKi2 on a loose track . Being that the car is setup out of the box for high grip tracks . The car felt amazing every where on the track other than it pushed really bad on slow sharp corners . It pushed initially at the corner . The rolls bars are 2.6 front and 2.8 rear . So I will try reducing both roll bars . I was afraid to change anything else on the car because it was so good that I didn’t want to go backwards . But the anti roll bars totally back sense without loosing the balance . Thanks JQ!
I feel that reducing is going in the right direction. I'm 2.3 front on my ebuggy and 2.4 nitro. Seems to really work well with 2.6 rears. However I do feels slight difference between the two. I may run the 2.3 on the nitro. I feel as tho the ebuggy isn't pushing as much like you mention.
Theoretically, could a gyro be used to provide information that would help setup a vehicle to run various features in a more stable fashion? Where are the smart RC'ers...?
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Because roll bar increases load transfer for that end, reducing traction. Initially the increased load transfer creates a peak in traction (initial grip) causing more response, but then the tires are more unequally loaded reducing grip (mid corner understeer)
When talking about high grip..what do people mean when they say steering is more aggressive (when using a thicker anti roll bar). Sounds like aggressive steering is not “good” steering?
Wow wow wow, i love all your vidéo. So much interesting and so much well done. Please keep making such great video about RC car. Then, please play a song with your guitar. My 2 passions, RC and guitar.
I been watching your video and I'm trying to understand. Most advices is basic layman stuff I already know. Been watching your videos and trying to understand . Not sure if I get it but my lap times have improved. I'm not as fast as I want to be but I'm a lot faster than I was. My car feels like it's in the track. If I make a mistake and flip over my car always seems to land on its Wheels. It feels like it's in the track now, my lap times have improved my consistency has improved
Interesting. I recently changed my Tekno NB48 2.0 sway bars from stock 2.3/2.5 (mm F/R) to 2.6/2.2 in an effort to stop a traction roll issue on a higher speed, somewhat bumpy, left sweeper on my local track. If it helped, it's not much as I still traction roll. I have a 2.8 front bar to try too and I suppose I could try running no rear bar as an experiment. Might try wider hexes. Ride height is stock and I don't want to go lower as there's a big double jump. Maybe could go lower with bump stops added to shock shafts?
These videos were an awesome find and definitely worth the watch but if you are trying to save time, money or effort, just you know, like take up gardening or some shit racing probably isn't for you 😅
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???
Great video , if you only had one sway bar would it be more affective on the front or rear of the car ? And would your choice of position change from high grip to low grip surface?
Great!! Thanks for this AAA quality video!! How can we send you a video from our track from Argentina to get some advice about it. (It call "speed paradise track" with a new design since 2020) Thanks in advance!
OK here's a response to a low grip track I would get from 3 different people. 1-go softer springs, 2-lower the roll center, 3-thinner anti-roll bars. I mean it still confuses me on what I should be changing first, and then there's thinner diff oil, softer shock oil softer tires, I mean does anyone out there have a proper strategy or are we all just guessing?
This isn’t mathematics. There isnt one correct answer. It depends on so many variables. The only one thing we know is tyres is first. That’s the most important thing, after that it depends on what you want. That’s why you have to learn to understand the difference between all those changes. You can get thr online course for more info.
Just what I need, I've been having trouble getting my four wheel car working (overstreering on astro like crazy) and this video was like a punch in the eye, thanks a lot!
A good driver, at least in real race cars is that a harder rear end allows for a pointier front turn in, but you need to pick up the throttle gently on exit as the rear will be taily. If you dial in more rear toe in, you can help mitigate the rear end sway bar stiffness and sort of have your cake and eat it too. This is not an amateur set up IMO, but you can be very quick on a tarmac course if you learn to drive it with finesse and patience. Having this setup also needs a more gentler approach to trail braking into a corner as the back can come around. A more front biased brake adjustment is def a good safety margin to start with and can set it rearward slowly from there. I know this is off point from your video, but I race in 1:1 cars as well as instruct, setup race cars etc. I think you are def on point here and I have raced 1:8th buggy's many years ago. I wish I knew what I know now back then.............lol. Great video, thanks.
Good job. BUT can you help me out. My son runs carpet only/two wheel drive team associated buggy 6.2 The buggy class here where I live is the number one class, (high compilation) four wheel drive cars have a lot of leeway because of the push /pull design So any ideas that you have for two wheel drive BUGGY would be helpful Thanks Rick
I know this is an older video, but it took me 2 hours to get through 38 minutes of video. I was pausing, note taking, looking at my Typhon 6s, then back to the video. Very thorough video, thanks for taking the time to explain this for us all. The Typhon 6s BLX comes with 2.4 front, 2.7mm rear.
Hi! Please help me dial my 1/5 Hpi Baja 5sc. I was racing it on a open 2wd category. I put same thickness swaybar on front and rear. I notice if the track high grip it turns great but once the track is dry I suffer fish tailing . Can you help me please. Thanks.
Thanks for the 📹, very educational and interesting!!! I like specially the final comment saying something like try yourself and don't copy the best drivers because they have special requirements, search to be confident and safety with your driving. Great tip!!
Awesome video, going to check out more and your site! In the video you mention 1/8th and bars sizes(thicker rear than front), where would you recommend starting for short corse 2nd trucks? Thicker rear bar than front like 1/8 scale? Factory front is 1.3mm and no bar rear.
Unfortunately this explanation is incorrect. For a given cornering force, total load transfer is fixed regardless of relative bar and spring stiffnesses. Stiffening the rear bar will cause the rear inside tire and front outside tire to transfer more load to the front inside tire and rear outside tire during cornering, therefore transferring grip to the front end via more evenly loaded front-end. Vice versa in all aspects as well. It’s as simple as that. Same exact thing occurs with relative spring stiffnesses. Same thing happens with relative damper stiffnesses but only during loading and unloading (not steady state). You cannot change how much total load transfers occurs- that is dictated by the variables shown in the prolific weight transfer equation
Total load transfer isn’t fixed. What you are doing when adjusting a car is changing how long it takes for load to transfer. A car has a limited time to transfer load in each section of the track. Also, a roll bar most certainly increases load transfer at the end that you install it. If you think it doesn’t I would like to hear that explanation
@@invisiblespeedrc I already explained in my initial comment. It just re-distributes load among the tires such that the tire-load sensitivity favors the softer axle. This science has been fully fledged out in full-scale motorsports. Your explanation starting at 9:56 is incorrect. The rear axle should have a larger red circle at the inside tire and a smaller red circle at the outside tire. If the front increases load transfer, then the rear decreases so total remains constant. You touch on the idea and say the rear is affected slightly but no- it is equal and opposite and has nothing to do with roll. Roll has zero effect on weight transfer. For a given cornering force a softer car that rolls more does not transfer more load than a stiffer car that rolls less. Make sure that at any given moment In your analysis the load among all four tires adds up to the total weight of the car, and the percentage of total L/R load transfer is fixed for a given cornering force such as 1.5g Your statement at 11:47 is the most significant misunderstanding that if you re-evaluate will likely help you understand better. Total grip is not reduced- it is simply redistributed between axles. As someone who shares your elite enthusiasm for motorsport dynamics, I like your channel a lot and want to help you understand this topic Regarding your other note that it increases how fast load transfer occurs: yes that is correct but not relevant to the topic in question
@@aaronsnd2 no you are incorrect and it is very easy to demonstrate how. Load transfer is not only affected by one thing, you have to break it down into monents in time, entering a corner, entry when not slowing down as heavily, rolling, beginning to accelerate, exiting, for example. All of the natural load transfer throughout those actions determine which axle is more heavily loaded. If you want to simplify, and break it down to nuts and bolts level, what the anti roll bar does is exactly what I mentioned. You can experiment yourself. Put the rear of the car on scales, roll the car with a known force without an antiroll bar, and note the reading. Then do the same with an anti roll bar. Also, the time it takes for things to happen is the majority of what we are doing when we set up a car, so I don’t understand how it can be irrelevant.
Hey awesome channel mate, not many uploading this kind of topic and I've been learning a bit too because I've gone through two RCs already, (I don't see myself changing to electric anytime soon) basically I'm a complete amiture the only thing I am and have always been naturally really good at is is destroying perfectly good RCC anyway I didn't really want to get into that I Just wanted to say well done on your channel, thanks for sharing your knowledge but he is the negative feedback coming at ya.... Too much of your voice is boring and putting me to sleep, I like watching your videos but I've never finished one from end to end because I get so bored (you already know how to fix this I know) but you had a video with some real nitro RCC performing as an intro and that was great, I really suggest you put more clips like that maybe every five minute intervals you know just random footage of one flying off a jump ramp or another crashing really badly or one hitting a squirrel or something. I think the best place to get some footage is taking your rrc to your local skate park perhaps on a lighty raining day that way you'll have the whole park to yourself because no one likes skating in the rain , it ruins their bearings anyway that's it thxs again, remember less talking stay straight and Sharp onto your points and improvements and more high speed action footage.. ✌️
so if a thicker anti roll bar increases load transfer is that because it will want to pick up the inside tire reducing the overall grip of the "axle"? if a thicker anti roll bar will want to pick up the inside wheel then why wouldnt that keep the car more level therefor also increasing overall grip?
Totally agree with your first poin. I often say the same thing about guitar I grew up in the 90s when you had to get tablets your books and Rewind your cassette tape a million times to learn a solo nowadays you just pop on RU-vid and you can learn so much more in the same time I think a working guitarist could definitely have been in a massive Advantage if he can have the technology of today and RU-vid excetera while we going up against guys pre-internet era. Injured track racing they say if your car is hooking up good that left front tire should barely be off the ground about 50% of the corner.
i just finished a 30min video and wrote a full details of roll bar on my book at 5am in my room :D thank you for your explaination, i will visit this video again. and yeah, subscribed
Used to be back in the day first step if the car was too tight get rid of the ARB. I used to try and talk people out of doing that, normally people wouldn’t listen.
😊 I appreciate your knowledge and wisdom that you share with us. I’m hoping just to know my car as well as I can the results will come out in the heat once again I think you for your time and I appreciate what you’ve done.
An anti-roll bar resists body roll, and by definition transmits the force exerted on it by the body rolling outwards, into load on the outside tire. Where do you think this force is transmitted?
Tnaks for the video :) I miss the information about mounting position. How the mounting of both ends of antirollbar affects the handling. With this I mean if there is any effect how far are the ends pushed into the pivot ball. Thanks
Well done, I might be an outlier but Im about .5 seconds a lap faster and more consistent without roll bars. That said I play around a lot with camber link and shock position to make it work. lol (rough and dusty track)
I’m running on a very low grip dusty and loamy Sandy and extremely bumpy dirt track I have totally removed both front and rear roll bars to try to achieve more grip. Is that a good idea?
Awesome tutorial. My favorite so far. So many thanks. One thing to add is checking your roll bar for flatness. It's common to bend you roll bars making your buggy handle different left right and vise versa. Again thank you for this video.
This is the most comprehensive breakdown and analysis with step by step explanation. Thank you for your hard work and time sharing this insight and knowledge. Keep up the amazing work its inspiring.
