You'd better check your polyurethane and tung oil... 

▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ ISOtunes is a small, family company in Indiana that makes Bluetooth hearing protection for the shop, yard and everywhere else. (Support a small business and save 10% when you use this link, or the discount code: STUMPY) shop.isotunes.com/stumpy #ISOtunes #ISOtunesSport @isotunes @isotunessport *My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/ *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

I like your comparison that "Finish" on a label is like "Food product" at the grocery store. A "cheese food product" isn't cheese. A "Tung oil finish" isn't Tung oil.

Fun fact, Danish oil is neither made of pastries nor Danes. I live in Denmark and have never seen Danish oil here.

A number of years ago, I worked for a coatings company. We made high end finishes for boats, planes, cars, furniture, and musical instruments. Our finishes were not cheap because they used real polyurethane resin. Some had UV inhibitors, some were made for outdoor uses. Quite often we would analyze other companies products because clients requested it. More times than not those products only contained 5% poly in them. Some had no poly resin at all yet they claimed to be a poly product. You have to read the MSDS sheet very carefully to be sure of what you are about to purchase.

I've been making my own finish(es) for a few years now. Once you start to understand all these points, it's so easy to make your own finish that's appropriate for the job you're working on. For a fine finished jewelry box or something, I love to make my first coat more thinned down to get a great penetration than work up layers with less thinner as you go. But for quick easy projects, use less thinner and 1-2 coats is just fine. I save the marketing money for my own business needs 😉

The ready-made stuff is useful for someone who is doing a small project and doesn't want to have to store or dispose of extra materials.

I totally agree. I've been using 100% pure tung oil diluted with a citrus solvent (50-50) as my go to food safe finish. The solvent helps it penetrate quickly and the tung oil polymerizes in the wood after about 30 days. It does take a while, but once it does, your home made kitchenware will last years. This is especially important to me because I give a lot of my projects as gifts and I don't want my family to perform a lot of maintenance.

I agree Jim, 'Its varnish but not as we know it'. Sorry I couldn't resist it. This is a bit removed from wood working, but I do a fair bit of gardening too and use a natural product to repel bugs from the vegetables called 'Neem Oil'. Its available in all sorts of formulas and spray bottles for premium prices. And just like rubbing finishes as liquid as you can get; almost thinner than water! Neem oil is the consistency of contact adhesive and to mix it with water for spraying you drop the required amount into a hand spray bottle with hot water where it mixes up well. Off you go and spray your veg. Its very effective and harmless to humans too as Neem is actually a nut. A half pint bottle cost the equivalent of $15, I'll be using my bottle for years. So its not just the paint and finish guys having a dip in our pockets. Excellent video as usual.

Stumpy, you never fail to deliver. Thanks for this invaluable (without fillers) information.

I love that you leave open the alternate possibilities instead of jumping straight to raw castigation of those who might do things differently. In addition to the wealth of knowledge and experience you bring to your videos, this level-headed attitude is part of why I LOVE this channel. Thank you for all you do.

When I was a kid, I got a soccer ball that was made with “genuine synthetic leather” 🤔

I anticipated, and loved the quip about Danish oil being "squeezed from danishes."

You know things are gonna get spicy when James dropkicks known brands in the teeth. Go for it, mate.

Now I'm suspicious if there's polyurethane in my Kraft singles, LOL.

Bob Flexnor's book on finishes was a great read. This is a good video

I do gun stock work and have been using boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits with a little raw umber oil paint to finish the stocks for about 30 years instead of name brand stuff and works better. Great video and thanks for the info

I thoroughly appreciate the detail in which you delve into your topics in your videos; stripping away the uncertainly and double-speak and get to the basic meat of the matter at hand. Thank you.

Thanks for the refresher about finishes. I have mixed finishes for years (decades?) just to see how the differing ratios act on wood. I have an uncle who swears by Danish oil and Craftsman tools. They make him happy. God bless and Happy New Year.

I'm and old-time hobby wood worker and had no idea of all that info. Thank you again for your wisdom.

Thank you for this! I'm down to my last can and a fraction of Formby's, and while I look forward to trying the formula out that you mentioned, I have to say that it worked very well for me over the years. It was easy to use and produced a high quality finish that I couldn't be happier with. I'm glad there is an affordable alternative, because there was no way I was going to pay collector's prices for another can. In fact, if people are really paying that much, perhaps I will let go of my last one. After I try your formula 🙂

Wow , great explanation. You should make this type of video fo EVERYTHING ELSE out there.

Your comment about how buying premixed finishes is more convenient hit the nail on the head. Any convenient product always costs more. Just as a cake from the bakery costs a lot more than the ingredients would cost separately, different blends of wood finishes cost a lot more than their pure counterparts. Because it's more convenient for me to buy a quart of something that has been made from a blend of different substances that will do what I want than it would be for me to buy the ingredients, mix them in various ratios, and test them out, trying to achieve a specific result of appearance and protective performance. I'm not a chemist, and my woodworking projects need to look right the first time, so I'll just buy what the chemical engineers suggest to meet the needs of my various projects.

Really appreciate the research that goes into your videos. Thanks so much.

Excellent video. I still remember decades ago ,learning to mix oil with varnish to create custom material, from George Frank's book.

Thanks James, your videos continue to teach us and save us money. Your honest and informative videos are invaluable.

I’ve been preaching the very same tune for many, many years. I make my own finishes and they work just fine. I’m blessed because my father worked his whole life for a finish manufacturer. We were making our own at home when I was growing up. And I’m 79. Great and informative video! Thanks.

One of your past videos taught me to buy regular oil poly and cut it myself. Thank you!

Once again, you’ve provided great information for us Shop Dwellers. Thanks @Stumpy Nubs

"Danish Oil" is as real as "Corinthian Leather".

Man I am really loving your channel. Whenever a video pops up in my feed, it’s an easy click.

You said it at the 8:00 mark: "Convenience." Like so many things in this world, you pay dearly for convenience. Thanks Stumpy for this video. I've been using a super-secret "3:3 Finish" for years on a multitude of projects. It's 1 part paint thinner, 1 part polyurethane, and 1 part boiled linseed oil. I Love the stuff, though it takes weeks to fully cure. It can even turn MDF into something extremely water resistant and quite durable.

Thank you so much. It is unreal of people rip you off without you ever knowing.

🔥🔥🔥Excellent content! He is 100% correct...my go to for most clear coat finishes is a 1:1:1 lindseed oil, mineral oil, and poly mix, varied according to application and sometimes tinting with a stain.

Thanks for the info. I was looking for the right wood finish, and now you have answered that question for me.

I must say, another excellent presentation - very informative!

Thank you for your no-nonsense comparison of finishes. I've known about the Tung Oil Finish issue for years. And, I always did wonder where Danish Oil came from. My uncle always swore by Danish Oil as being the only "good" finish to use. I guess the marketing worked on him. Thank you again and happy new year!

Much appreciated the easy to understand explanation and examples. Thanks!

Great content! I remember an article in probably 'Fine Woodworking' way back with suggested mix ratios for oil finishes from raw ingredients. That may have made it into one of their books on finishing. Same gist--you can make what you need.

I have been finishing some reclaimed ceiling boards with wiping poly. It works great, I don’t need a durable finish, and it is so easy to apply to the less than perfect reclaimed boards. For my last batch of boards, I think I’ll try to make my own.

Excellent information as always. The details are always in the fine print.

Thank you for these in-depth and transparent reviews. I started using The Milk Paint Company tung oil.

Back in the day, i attended a lecture by Formby in Hartford CT. And yes, a good part of the lecture was how to use his fabulous tung oil product!

Great video as always James thanks for sharing such helpful information. Happy New Years to you and your family 🎊🎉🍾

Yup! Excellent PSA James! I have a great wood finishing book that breaks down exactly what you've said. I've been making my own wipe on poly (1:1:1 tung, quality spar varnish, mineral spirits) for years. If it was good enough for Sam Maloof, it's good enough for me.

Good video loaded with useful information. Cheers!

I appreciate the bit towards the end, about what you would want to mix to get whatever outcome your trying to get. I was pretty excited 6+ months ago to buy tung oil. While when it comes to food, I'm aware of all the word games, with finishes? Never thought about it. I'll be using that can I bought for a while haha. But I'm glad to have this information to look into more for future projects.

Good video. I've been using a home-brewed finish for 15 years. Started with equal amounts of spar varnish, BLO and mineral spirits. Looks great but not a lot of protection. A professional finisher recommended 3 parts spar varnish and one part each of BLO and mineral spirits. This mixture allows building up layers of varnish that provides more protection.

Thanks for the video, I usually learn something and always enjoy watching!

Thank you James.

You didn’t mention anything about driers that are commonly mixed into off the shelf varnishes. That’s a very important thing to consider when choosing whether or not to make your own varnish

Well done, Mr. Stumpy!

HAPPY NEW YEAR, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO

It's like "100% juice" drinks. It says made with 100% juice to make people think it's better than soda, but in reality it's sugar water with a smidge of juice. The trick is that it says "made with". All they're actually telling you is that drop of juice they added is in fact juice.

Brilliant! I learn something every time I watch one of your videos.

Dang James, you hit the nail on the head with this one. In aviation we advise to Read The Flipping Chart to get the approach right. As a woodworker, especially in these inflated times, READ THE CAN. I could not agree with you more Sir. Get what you pay for, know what you pay for and apply the finish you hope to get in the end!

Wow!!!!! This is so funny! What a coincidence! I just got started on a gun stock.....and have always used Forby's. I checked my 20+ year old can, and didnt think i had enough. So, I jump online to see where to get it.......And I'll be damned!!!!!! That stuff costs more than gold!!!!! 2 hours later, I sit down and pop on youtube, and here you are!!!!!!! Just blows my mind!!!!! Thanks Stumpy!!!!! I'll be looking into some of your alternatives. Have a great 2024!!!

I'm happy with shellac. Thanks to stumpy, I get a nice finish without the hassle.

Great video. Good to be aware of what we are actually being offered.

Thanks for this video. I make a finish from polyurethane, boiled linseed, and mineral spirits. I found it equivalent to Watco Danish oil. Ratio 3 parts thinner, 2 parts poly, 1 part linseed. Long drying time, but I like the results.

A fantastic explanation for some finishes. I’ve used polyurethane for a long time and didn’t know why. I just preferred it. Now I know why my subconscious mind was helping me go in the right direction.

Thank you for doing this. As a new woodworker I don't know anything about finishes. I've only used finish once so far and it was shellac.

Great video and explanation, well done. I do a lot of woodworking and trim carpentry and my cost structure is such that the money spent is not in the finishes, so I use what works for me and is quick and easy to use.

Stumpy, Thanks for reminding us... or at the very least me... on how easy it is to get duped!

Good informative video. Wish more youtubers made them like this. Subscribed

Thanks for all the tips, James! 😊 Happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Great video. Contains much valuable information. I feel I have just had a chemistry lesson. Thank you for sharing. Happy New Year. I am wishing you and yours a great 2024.🙂🙂

You’re a great communicator!

Exactly what I’ve always wanted to know- thanks and happy new year

I have no idea how this cropped up in my feed but the production quality is excellent.

Great video that takes some of the marketing mythology out of wood finishes. Amusing too!

Thanks for the video and how to save money on our finishes! I remember when anti-freeze manufacturers started offering one gallon jugs of 50-50 antifreeze. It was $1-$2 less per gallon, but you only got half the regular amount of pure antifreeze. What a ripoff!

Thank you for dispelling the myths about finihes. I didn't know, and I bet most others didn't either. 😊😊😊❤❤❤

Very good video. Especially since finishes have gone up in price significantly the last few years. I learned about most of your comments several years ago, but some I wasn't aware of until this video. Thanks. Oh yeah, if you could please tell the audience what is so expensive about Odie's Oil and the new-to-me N3 rub-on finishes I have heard about. I checked, and both are very expensive for a very small amount. Thanks again.

What a great video to start the year 👍👍👍 I was never the wood guy to use a lot of oils on my projects very little

Thank you so much. I have just recently discovered the word 'solvent' on the back of my Watco Tung Oil. I did buy it thinking it was pure.

Very well said Mr Nubs! !! !!!

Good points Stumpy!

For a few years I used a blend of poly, boiled linseed oil and solvent. equal amounts worked well.

My finish Trifecta is blo, shellac and mineral spirits. They work fantastically for 90% of my projects

I'm good with linseed oil myself... cheap, effective, & when I'm done, nobody knows the difference... I don't use any solvents either, just pour it out, wipe it around, let it set & soak in overnight, if the wood is dry next day, I use just a little more, then wipe the excess... good to go usually...

Great information, thanks. I use OB shine juice and mix it myself.

Good Vid, as usual. For added background, Sam Maloof was using this 1/1/1 mixture decades ago on his rocking chairs.

Even after I retire from my hole in the road I poured money in to ['74 KW W-900 single screw day cab) I can't get away from the Calipornia Air Resources Board [CARB]? (The MSDS VOC [Material Safety Data Sheet, Volatile Organic Compound(s)] percentage listing.) "They stopped making it" explains why my partially used can of Johnson & Johnson Paste Wax is now worth its weight in Unobtainium. Good tips. Thanks.

Making your own finishes is surprisingly easy. For cutting boards and kitchen utensils, I make my own mineral oil and beeswax finish. I add a little pure lemon oil to it, just to make it smell nicer. Like you said, it's easy (and kind of interesting) to play around with the ratios to make the finish that you need. There are several recipes that people have posted online to get started with. I bought a second-hand slow cooker pot for $10 to heat up the mineral oil and beeswax to melt the wax and mix it with the oil. I'm going to buy some tung oil and citrus solvent and play around with that soon.

I have been making my own for years after reading an article in a painters trade journal. One part linseed oil, one part poly or varnish or whatever you have laying around and one part paint thinner. takes one to two days to dry depending on temp and humidity. I always do the glass test when making a new batch and have yet to find a combination that hasn't dried hard on the glass. I used watco for years in my cabinet shop but now use this. Also works great on wood bowls.

Wow, I learned a lot this video!

Thanks for this video. I like to use shellac cut with alcohol or poly cut with mineral spirits; usually mix my own to get the consistency I want for a given application.

Thankyou for exposing these unscrupulous thieves.

Wonderfully explained. Thank you for sharing. Pure Tung oil is the best there is. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

Love your so much knowledge and unique learning topics

My dad used oil from oil changes to stain the fences and front gate. Looked great.

I live in Italy,we don't have these brands. I have never seen in any store "Olio Danese" Danish oil. I use what I know. Boiled linseed oil and I mix in a drop of solvent to make it thinner. I also use a base colouring stuff called "Mordente"There are a lot expensive tins on every shelf, but I dont know what they claim to be..Thank you for your videos Especially this one!!

Yum, a polyurinestain finish! My two favorite finishes are Waterlox Original Satin and Watco. I wipe them on, unless I'm in a real hurry and the piece just needs some waterproofing. Then I =might= brush on Waterlox. Both are clearcoat tung oil blends.

Very informative video, much thanks

Our 8th grade wood shop teacher taught us how to make Danish oil, linseed oil & turpentine.

Thank You!

I keep a can of Watco Danish Oil in Natural tone in my workshop for only one reason: It's great for the handles on the Chicago Cutlery knives. Whatever this stuff truly is, the knife handles like it and it makes the knives look great! Also, I believe another reason why manufactures make a dedicated Wiping Poly product is to comply with the laws in states like California which govern (limit) the total amount of solvent that a finish can have. Wiping poly can have a greater solvent content (therefor, it does and you pay accordingly). I read this once, but can't remember where.

Very helpful as always!

Thanks for the information. Fits nicely with your video on shellac. Would you consider making a video on turpentine and its advantages as a solvent in wood coatings?

Great stuff!