You will throw your die handles away after you watch this !!! 

I’m guessing the fuzzed out box reads “Elect a clown”.

I love how background details equates to 'putting politics' into your machining videos. Wow, people. Just wow. Great video, though. I don't actually have significant machinery at this point in my life, so it's rare that I can really engage with the content of your videos.

If I owed you a beer for every useful tip you've taught me you'd own a share of a brewery by now. :)

Boy, the comments on this one are gonna be something else..

I wanted to make such a die-holder for the last ten years. Maybe this year, haha. Thanks for sharing, always enjoy your videos and opinion Joe!

Hmmmm, not a Trump fan then? Good idea about the cardboard protector. Hadn't thought about that.

Always found the lead on a die is the same side as the size inscription

Yet another “why didn’t I think of that” moment, thanks Joe I’ll make one tomorrow.

that is nice for plastic and small diameter threads but as soon you go slightly bigger in metal (like 3/8" = 10 mm and bigger) the forces can become dangerous to your fingers, i speak from experience sind i tried a similar method.

Key board WARRIORS abound, as one scrolls down. Thanks Joe for your time!!

My Father taught me way back 51 years ago that the only thing thread dies were good for was chasing threads out in the field . We have the lathes in the shop use them .

another informative video lesson from prof joe. as some of our youtube creators have been moving towards infomercials and less towards machining you continue to stay the course. thanks joe. beautiful bike.

My ancient seer said that the side with the etched writing was the lead - apparently the side the die is cut from gets the etch tool. Now I am ancient I am passing it on 🤗

I use a very similar system but I dont have a lathe. I use it in the drill press.

I'm glad I knew this in the past, and that I was able to use such a device, but a few days ago I had to cut a thread on a piece, where the tread was followed by an od of just 1mm more (aluminum) and the problem was, that the die always "gripped" onto the chamfer... I ended up stopping the lathe 2mm before that critical part and cut the rest by spinning the chuck carefully by hand... Your Cardboard trick is genius, I imagine it would be even better if you use a "credit card thick" plastic (especially for aluminum) Thank you :)

Are you kidding? Showing us the Honda but not letting us hear the engine and do some rev sound check?

Didn't know that you could reverse dies to finish the last bit of thread Learn something every day

On point, will share this one also. Too bad some viewers aren't happy with white board. Wtf they need to grow up. Great tool and camera work as always, NICE way to get to work !

A sliding tailstock die and tap holder have been around for years.

Joe, I love the tool holder, but what about chip loading within the die and holder ? I know nylon or Delran wouldn't be a problem but what about other metals ??? P.S. nice ride. I have a older Kawasaki Vulcan Classic that I loaded up with LED's for show. Lol

The writing is always on the lead side

I made a tailstock die holder like that in shop class long ago, its really too short and too small in diameter for anything I do though, so I have a better device which I use to clean up single point threads for a precise fitment. Also I have had to deep cut grade 8 bolts to get rid of the shoulder, and realistically, you can't very well chuck one and single-point it, not enough material on the head to grab hold of, plus it brings the tool too close to the head, so a die is the only real way to finish, its just painfully slow with a lot of oil and a lot of gradual passes from super wide [shallow cut] to final fitment.

Nice idea. If I need a perfect, straight thread on a piece of work, I usually chase it on my lathe. I have used dies in a holder and had drunken threads. Usually the dies are not for precise work.

Quite agree with many of your observations... good many things I have found that help over the years. I often point cut first and run a die round thread to finish - plus, rarely use a die for course thread - way too hard! I made my own tailstock die holder long ago which of course maintains axial truth - at least for a start over first couple of turns. Nice refresher Joe. :) I had a VTX 1300 until I had to sell due to hip trouble. Miss the 13 years of riding i had on it.

With taps and dies after the newly cut threads start to self feed on to or into the work DO NOT push the cutter into the work as you can over cut the thread. Also when you are removing the cutter let the threads push the cutter off of the work DO NOT pull the tap or die for the same reason. I know most everybody that watches Joe knows this, but there might be somebody that doesn't.

One thing, in order to help center the die on the shaft, I was trained to machine a nub at the minor diameter of the thread to guide the die onto the part. The nub is faced off after the threading operation is completed. Is this something you would be comfortable with?

99% of dies have the size/writting on the lead

how can this be news to anyone that runs a lathe .... and remember dies are kind of a last resort , if you have a lathe you single point the thread, much better quality

After 40 yrs as a Tool & Die Maker, my threading die set is virtually in mint condition... ie: used ONLY as a last resort or for simply chasing a thread.

Always worth my time. Cool bike...for a cruiser.

unloosen is a perfectly cromulent word.

Great video. I enjoyed it. I drive a 2002 vtx 1800 to work every day for the last seven years. I've gone to work on it in 23 degrees cold at 90 mph more than once. It's been in 40 mph gusts with lightning and rain and never missed a beat. It has never not started one time since I've had it and never left me on the road even while needing to change the feul pump. It has carried my miller STL 150 amp tig , stick welding machine to work more times than you can imagine. And the machine won't even budge from the bike even at 100 mph. I was forced to ride on some flooded roads where the muffler was under water and it still didn't stop. The Harley guys laugh when they see me with the welding machine on the back seat, but they are laughing from way behind me as it smokes them. Thanks for the vid. Dan

Wish I'd watched this 20 years ago. I worked as a machinist for a company who serviced industrial sewing machines. I've threaded thousands of remade off the wall looking screws , but I'd always use a single point over a die because of all the issues you brought up. 👍

Great.. I made a holder that slides over tailstock spindle and a screw that locates in the keyway no hands near chuck would love to show you

I was a land surveyor 40 years and used precision instruments. Always wondered how they were made and considered taking a machine shop class to learn. Watching your videos is a real education. Thank you much!!!

Hey Joe great video as always, I'm just surprised you have a Honda Davidson lol . But she's gorgeous

Back in the day you could buy split dies with guide collets. They gave excellent results but just don't seem to be available new now. Available 2nd hand on ebay or in shops dealing with old tools. Grand old names like Greenfield and Little Giant and others.

I made an adapter for my tailstock 1 1/2" dia. die holder to do the same thing with small taps (under 1/2"). Made up a fake 1 1/2" die button out of 1018 crs and adapted a T type tap wrench to it. The outer body is knurled. Works real well with spiral point taps if you aren't in a blind hole, or have enough depth for the chips. Tactile feel keeps from breaking taps. Let's me power tap in the lathe.

Thanks Joe, My tailstock die holder has a shaft with a MT2 on one end that fits in the tailstock so you don’t have to use a drill chuck. BTW getting some popcorn to read the comments, quite amusing being outside the US and looking in 😂😂😂 Cheers

it is impossible for me to watch one of your videos and not learn something useful in the shop. Even a topic you have clear disdain for and may be extremely basic for most machinist - I can find inspiration and some nuggets of knowledge. keep up the great work.

Iv been a machinist for almost 20 years. I thought those round things were mechanics tools designed to make my job harder kinda like easy out's. 😊

Several months ago I finished making a die holder for the mini lathe. It is 2 sided, one side fits round die and the other side I press fitted a hex holder into it. It was a bit of work and took time as I only worked on it and hour or two a month. Also, I made a morse taper #2 for the tailstock to hold the die holder. It was a rewarding project.

The screw is there to make the die smaller for a 90 or 100 % thread. Most threads are 80% deep. Some hard materials might need to start at 60 and work up.

Thanks Joe I'm going to make one, Lowes have got a special on jeans 2 for the price of one. Nice bike cheers from OZ.

Washington is a circus. Now we have the right clown running it.

A: Thumbs down for the clickbait. I will not throw my die handles away as I use them for in place threading on studs, and for repairing and threads on things that are impractical or impossible to chuck. B: I don't think those little 2" handles will thread 3/4"-10 in steel. So once again, I will keep my die handles.

Another good tip with an un-necessary click bait title

How does this work on steel? I can not believe you can run it powered (unless your lathe has a ton of torque at 20rpm)?

Why blur out "elect a clown" at the top of the white board?

Hi Joe, over here in the UK and majority of our dies being metric are without the split for adjusting the thread to be tight or baggy, rule of thumb we go by is that 99% of manufacturers etch the lead in side having the thread size information on that side. That’s one we remember, keep the good work going as we enjoy your shows....Phil

I watched this and threw my dies away. Now I have no dies

As always another great video joe! Although you could of started the Honda up🤔😉. Keep the videos coming

Great idea. How does that work when your threading steel or stainless ?

Bahh - if dices are so heavy they need handles, it would be nearly impossible to throw them.

I've never seen a die like that before. America just seems to have alot more engineering workshop stuff compared to Australia :(

Nice video. Nice bike, I have to drive to work in... my memories - I'm retired!

Some of you guys are so paranoid, he sneaks in a clown comment and you all immediately think of ol' shreaded wheat head. Joe could be better informed than most and could well be commenting on our MPs voting for the next UK prime minister. Just saying,

I'm here for all the "doesn't your drill chuck fill up with chips" comments! But I feel more validated now.

One of the very first projects I did when I bought my new lathe: photos.app.goo.gl/StrRqSaxo2ETWoHU8

Loosen = un-tighten dosen't it? LoL ( sorry just had to) Have you found that the entry side usually has the size markings or Mfg's name on it?

Crank it up Joe , we want to hear it !

Been using a slight variation of the floating holder since 1972. 1.5 inch diameter aluminum, knurled with a 1/2 inch diameter through hole. One end takes round dies the other hex. The clutch is my hand. Just let go when the end is reached.

I'm thinking about making one... with a Morse Taper including the free-wheel effect. Good video. I want to learn all I can about Manual Machining. I know a little bit, but not enough.

Joe, Joe, Joe.... you can't show us such a lovely bike without letting us hear it purr, now that's just a tease! Great video, once again, and yet another usefull tool to make for the tool box. Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom Joe, much appreciated.

12:30, nono, that's not a mistake that's uhm just the threading gutter.

The practicality of this obviously comes from a long experience of thread cutting but I can also see how it would improve the quality of work done with my lack of experience. PS. I've owned cars with smaller engines than your bike!

"Elect a Clown, Expect a Circus" :)

WOW, Joe I bet you didnt think that a shit storm would happen over that comment! Lol,,

11:48 Must be the Russian's fault

I'm not a machinist, but I just bought a nice set of tap and dies second hand and I'm getting some minor rust off of them now. I got them for $15 just in case sometime I needed to repair or make something work. My dad and I had a small MOTORCYCLE, (loved the end of your vid with the bike) and he never thought me the details of the way to use these. So glad I found this to teach me the proper use of these tools. You're a master teacher as well as knowing your stuff about machining. Grade "A" THANK YOU!

Hahaha. Elect a clown, expect a circus.

Thinning out the weak links.

Flippin' awesome! Who the hell gave this a thumbs down?

Floating die holder is the way to go! Thanks for all the time you dedicate to these great lessons.

Are you a teacher? Because you should be one.

Siome dies have a draw screw instead of a spreader screw, and some are bi-directional. Depending on the expected FIT, you can start with a wide cut, then come back tighter and tighter until you reach the proper fitment, AND you take lighter cuts with less spalling, less tooth strain, and less 'shredding' (surface fracturing in the threads).

Joe : Video good as far as techniques and adapters go. BUT - your suggestion of reversing the die to finish the thread to the very end is, I think, faulted. Dies do have the chamfer on one side to indicate the starting side for your threading (making the start easier), but it is also the side which has the internal die threads cutting in the correct direction. To explain, think of the typical drill bit; besides it's sharpness, the cutting edge has a relief so that only this edge cuts, and the rest of the drill's front body doesn't contact the material it cuts through. The same is true of a die's threads. They also are relieved to cut only on the leading edge, and produce the "chips" we are all familiar with. And are designed to cut in only ONE direction (usually CW). Reversing the die in the holder and screwing over what threads are cut puts the non-cutting edge to the front, and forces the die to sort of 'climb over' any new material it encounters rather than cut it. Hence the 'broken teeth / broken die' you refer to. Probably works with your plastic or nylon, but not so much with metal. Haven't seen other comments re this; though I'd add it.

Zoom, another 20 min and a new lesson learned (Handles on the holder), Thanks teach.

It's not a die handle. It's a die stock!

After watching the video and learning to thread with the tool upside down and running away from the headstock I am a lot more comfortable single pointing threads now, but there is a definite case for having this floating die tool - a lot more simple than some of the "clutched" tailstock die holder designs and just as good.

I hope this is solely for plastic threads, I wouldn’t want to cradle that with two hands on a steel thread.

A wise man told me " never become emotionally involved with inanimate objects " best advice ever .

No offense, but this isn't exactly revelatory. These types of tailstock die holders have been used for ever. This is not even the best implementation of a die holder I've seen either, since it is at the mercy of your drill chuck being of high quality. Go check out the die holder made by Chris from Clickspring, made to fit straight into the Morse Taper of the tailstock, just seems infinitely better made and more robust than this.....

A floating die holder is a very cool idea! Think I'll build myself one. The Dies with the screws are nice because you can cut threads a litte at a time as if doing it on the lathe. You don't cut full depth on the first pass.

Elect a clown, expect a circus...........well said.

Dang !! clean fingernails for a machinist 4:30 , Joe ain't doing no shitty job like me, love your videos

"elect a clown expect a circus" that's awesome!!

I always use the tail-stock chuck jaws for aligning dies, especially the smaller ones. Your point about the diameter of the shank of the bit of to threaded is very important. A few thou under nominal is OK, but a few thou over is asking for trouble... :-)

I won't throw any of my tools away after watching a video, you can be sure. My tools are precious and they costed a huge buttload of money. I use them and if just one breaks I become angry and frustrated.

Some screws are literally cut that way [like the acetyl] for clearances on some precision pumps so that they can put compressible single use copper washers which not only seals the hole, it acts a little like a lock washer or like using loctite, only without the undesired clearance [leakage] of the lock washer, and without the undesired difficulty of removal often experienced with thread locking compound.

You know I watch A lot of these type of videos, and and I always wind up rolling my eyes because of the way people deliver the information… Either they’re trying to be some sort of “character “or I just can’t stand them… You’ve got it perfect. I can listen to you and learn things without feeling insulted if that makes any sense. I appreciate it

I'm missing two small gears for my lathe to do the other 50% threading sizes in mm and sae my lathe is capable of, otherwise, I would thread with just the lathe. I don't like the die either. Great video!!

Good video.... I have often made dies from nuts and even made taps from dies made from nuts as well as making taps from bolts then with those cutting dies ... Just get hardened steel nuts or at least harder than what you are tapping..... Of course in your video you did plastic and a steel blank being threaded would put more torque on the tap holder and so you should use longer arms and turn slower for safety.... When in doubt do it by hand

Thanks Joe. Another great video. Enjoyed meeting you at the Summer Bash. My wife says we are coming back next year. She had a great time with the raffle. Once again, any time you want to come to the desert you have a standing invitation to visit us in Lake Havasu. Shannon & Diana Stebbens.

Most videos that demonstrate a machining process are done using steel. I liked how you used the the nylon or similar material. Even if those blanks were as expensive or even more expensive than the steel it would still be worth it when you consider tool wear, breakage etc. It reminded me of my college CNC Programming course. It was a "bare bones" program that nobody had ever heard of before and I've never heard of since but it was a CNC Program and the basics were learned using it. To make the part for the final exam we used what they then called, "machinist wax". It was a very good idea as many people messed up and the tool would traverse right through the blank workpeice which would, if using steel, break the cutter and scrap the part. I suspect that's a handy medium for doing prototype work as well as being used for teaching/demonstration. As for your die holder, very impressive. I think I need one of those!

This is cool, I would certainly do this in my home shop on my bench lathe but if they saw me holding the tail stock with hands this close to the spindle of the 24" shop lathe while turning the spinde on and off they would kick me out of the shop.

Lipstick on a pig anyone?

Now you know all the "fussy" Machinest are cringing at your mangled pants. Excellent content, as usual.

One less subscriber Joe, I enjoy watching machinist videos because until tonight its been about the only way to get away from all the politics.

Ok , now show how it works on metal , like iron or inox (chrome nickel )