ZD30 Airbox Inlet Mod 

Yes it certainly does. I put a Safari on it 17.5 years ago when it was 6 months old :).

Yes, very similar

Download this and go to your model drive.google.com/file/d/1Dzz4rwukmsQNgOX6n00QC8nFNUWleMrn/view?usp=sharing

I still have the original Safari piping to the snorkel. Initially I adhered it to the Sikaflex 227, great stuff, but a few thousand K's of outback trips saw that start to separate due to vibration. I made up a thin sheet metal tube that I could slide inside the join, cleaned it all up and re sikaflexed the join, the thin metal tube I made has a fine coating of Sikaflex on it as well to make it stay in place at the join, been in there for many trips now and no issues.

Thanks for the info Ross, I’ve been following you on patrol 4x4 for a long time and have done quite a lot of mods that have worked on. Thanks again and keep up the great work

@@adamraggq Thanks mate, appreciate that, have been a bit slack here, got a couple of things to put up but no time.

There are a few ways, by fitting a resister into the MAF wiring, this way the ECU gets a lower return signal, I used to build adjustable MAF voltage modifiers for people but the kits are no longer available, both of these methods cause at least a slight loss in power as you are telling the ECU there is less air so it compensates with less fuel. The best way to get rid of limp these days is an ECU remap, Harley from East Coast Performance Tuning did mine and fanbloodytastic, had it for nearly two years now. If you are experiencing MAF limp and your MAF is in good condition the reason is you are exceeding certain voltages at certain revs, 3.88v under 2500rpm, 3.98v under 3000rpm and 4.18v under 3500rpm, there is another way around this, but again it costs performance, and that is to adjust the VNT grub screw down 1/3rd to half a turn so that spoolup is slowed and you don't reach those voltages at those revs. Hope this helps.

Geeyoutoo thanks mate, sure does 👍

Lol. Just follow directions, it works well :).

Absolutely, it would be pointless otherwise, the Sika 227 takes very good care of that. You may also have seen I did a vid on the lid seal so containment of highly filtered air is very important to me, I do a lot of trips off the beaten track.

Sorry mate no I don't in general, was there anything specific you were after?

I have 2, a K&N and a BMC, both work well, bothe are smaller diam over the std without forsaking filter area, this gives more room around the filter in the airbox, therefore greater area use. I do prefer the BMC as its diameter is slightly smaller again, so you get at least 30mm gap around the filter. People will 9ften say don't use them as they don't filter as good as the std, that is totally incorrect as I have proven over many years on outback roads, the secret is in applying the filter oil correctly and evenly after the filter has been washed. I swap, clean and re oil after 10,000k. Hope this helps.

@@Geeyoutoo where can I buy a BMC filter in Australia?

@@Darkrider998 I bought mine from Bursons, from memory I may have had to order it in, the part number was FB229. What you may need to do is carefully remove the top and bottom rubber rings from the std air filter and glue them to the top and bottom of the BMC, mine was many years ago may not be required now. Remember sponge type ring goes to top of filter and the seal type ring goes to the bottom.

Thanks mate appreciate it