Nissan Patrol 3Litre 2000 GUII ZD30 DI, The old 3L DI is a much maligned member of the Nissan family, my intention for the channel is to show ongoing improvements to reliability and performance I have made over the years and continue to make, I have had my 3L Troll for just on 16 years now and I still love it, I love driving it, I love making improvements. I get low to mid 10L/100k regularly and it goes very well even if I do say so myself.
You don't always need to spend a heap of money to pick up Hp, there is a lot of misinformation out there that would indicate bigger is much better but that is often not the case.
I'm not after the most Hp I can get, that leaves bottom end power at risk, I'm after a good combination of and transition from, torque to Hp, giving the vehicle improved 'driveability', while maintaining the reliability I have built into the old ZD30DI.
Old video, but I've been messing with this on my GU ZD30Di (before the VP44 died last week :( ) I had the opposite trend, it sat on requested boost (what I had it set to in the tune, 100km/h was around 6-8psi) but it would occasionally just climb to the max I had set at full throttle, then with a slight change of the throttle position it would go back to where I requested. So strange, other than that the factory boost control was much nicer than the dawes/tillix. Have been attempting to disassemble the ECU code to find out why, but its proving difficult, even for a 256K file lol.
I fitted an independent system years ago, totally independent of the ECU, it controls max boost as well, but, as an added safety I refitted my old Dawes valve, I run 25psi on an aftermarket turbo, so the Dawes is set at that but still allows the other system to function as it should, it is just a safety. So you can use your Dawes/Tillix to that post vacuum solenoid and it won't do a thing until the max you have set is hit and only then. It is not uncommon for boost to 'wander' with pure ECU control. I run 12-13psi at 100k in 5th.
When you adjust the normal idle up the Aircon idle goes up by the same amount automatically. Heat switch idle stays at 1200rpm though. After over 9 months since doing it I would take it to 790rpm, I'll get around to it one day, no hurry it is working fine.
Great video mate! My daughter and I were only just talking about how rough it idles and rattles everything yesterday. I smoothed it out with a little bit of pedal and thought if only I could turn the idle up. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you, it is a bit hard to get at initially but once accessed so easy to do, the difference it has made on mine is quite significant, so smooth, even helps taking off in 2nd when the need arises. Wish I'd done it years ago.
Yes, my days of bush bashing just for the sake of it are well and truly over, it is the scenery along the way and the destination that are the 'driving' force.
@@sportyman1992 no worries mate that is what it is all about, the one I fitted in the vid is still in there and working fine, I often give it a good workout on dusty tracks.
Go to here and look for the schematics I posted, there are several optiuons with easy to follow pics. www.patrol4x4.com/threads/nads-zd30-di-nads-steps-and-logic-with-diagrams.88214/
I have 2 reusables I use, a K&N E-9267 and a BMC FB229/07. The BMC is a slightly smaller dia than the K&N which is slightly smaller diam than the std air filter. The BMC gives almost 30mm around the filter allowing better use of the filter area, instead of getting the round black spot on a std one you can see a larger area being used and will notice dust even around the corner.
@@Geeyoutoo im looking to do pre turbo methanol injection and i know i dont want to use a small volume nozzle to keep droplet size down so that my impeller doesnt get torn up. what size did you end up using and what were you spraying
@@bhearts77 Funny this should come up just now. I have changed my whole system again after becoming aware of study done at a university in the US, I have removed the pre turbo and throttlebody injection points. I now have pre intercooler injection with a CM3 nozzle, the difference was quite amazing and the setup a little strange until you think about it the nozzle is as close to the IC body as possible and angled so that the spray actually heads towards the back wall of the end tank, this cools the wall which in turn cools the air. I did this in stages because the next step was quite a big one, injecting straight into the inlet manifold working on the same principle as the IC inlet, luckily I was able to experiment on an old inlet manifold I managed to get my hands on as I was going to drill and tap 2 nozzles into the manifold without removing it, tricky but can be done (and I did). the difference that made was the icing on the cake, I only have small nozzles in there at the moment but I'm looking at re installing my TPS controlled solenoid I used for the pre turbo so I can control usage a little better and only have that work when I really need it, so may be able to go slightly larger there, this is still a WIP. I will put together another vid on this when I get a chance, in the meantime if you have any questions then ask away. This is one of the best mods I have ever done.
There were two springs available for the Dawes Valve, I know Darren Dawes from when I was working in US, after a discussion the competition spring became the norm, he actually sent me 50 springs to be distributed to the people I knew who had a Dawes and the original spring had gone soft. if your spring is around 23mm x 7mm then it is the original spring, the comp spring is around 22mm x 9mm. you can stretch the original spring to a certain extent, I actually still have 2 comp springs on the shelf. measure what you have and get back to me. We will see what we can work out.
@@Geeyoutoo bought it for a good price. But is it a good price really if it doesn't start 🙆 will have to figure out what's wrong with it. Worst comes to worse it's the fuel pump
@@tunex_ What turbo does it have? is it a Zexel VP44 pump? Does it have the primer on the fuel filter? If so are you able to prime fuel to pump in 1-2 pumps?
I have 2, a K&N and a BMC, both work well, bothe are smaller diam over the std without forsaking filter area, this gives more room around the filter in the airbox, therefore greater area use. I do prefer the BMC as its diameter is slightly smaller again, so you get at least 30mm gap around the filter. People will 9ften say don't use them as they don't filter as good as the std, that is totally incorrect as I have proven over many years on outback roads, the secret is in applying the filter oil correctly and evenly after the filter has been washed. I swap, clean and re oil after 10,000k. Hope this helps.
@@Darkrider998 I bought mine from Bursons, from memory I may have had to order it in, the part number was FB229. What you may need to do is carefully remove the top and bottom rubber rings from the std air filter and glue them to the top and bottom of the BMC, mine was many years ago may not be required now. Remember sponge type ring goes to top of filter and the seal type ring goes to the bottom.
@@Geeyoutoo Excellent! Thanks for the reply. I bought one on eBay about the same time you did. Intending to use it grey nomading. But here it is 6 years later and still haven't gone. Hopefully within the year I'll get a 4wd and take off. I'll put it to use then. But might take a backup in case 6 years sitting unused had degraded it.
Geeyoutwo I think I need to modify maf voltage unless I'm missing something? Have blanked egr, needle and Dawes, 2002 Di still hitting limp or boost bounce? Not sure how to tell the difference, thanks
Do you have a boost gauge? If so what boost are you seeing? Do you know your MAF voltages? if as soon as you lift your foot off the accelerator and accelerate gently again the vehicle recovers then that is limp and as said mine has 3 limp zones, 2500, 3,000, 3500 and these can be tripped by quick turbo spoolup and a boost above 15-16psi (some vehicles may have that a bit lower), you maybe able to get rid of it by slightly reducing boost and/or spoolup. Does the engine light come on while driving? Unfortunately the device I was building is no longer available as a kit, so quite difficult to put together these days. If you are going to hang onto your Patrol (I still have mine after 21 years) then it maybe worth spending a few dollars, there is a unit called an ECUTalk it connects easily to the vehicle ECU and gives readouts on many ECU sensors, including MAFv and engine temperature in degrees. I will add a link. The second thing is an ECU remap, this can be personalised by the tuner to suit your requirements and will remove all limp zones, this can be done on a dyno or send ECU to the tuner and they do a mail order tune. Unfortunately there are not a lot of tuners who do the DI remap anymore, I know of one and he did my last update after changing turbo. www.ecutalk.com.au/ www.powercurve.com.au/
@@Geeyoutoo hi mate thanks for the reply. Yes it's boosting around 15psi, pyro is around 400° post turbo at 100km/h If I button off and back on it goes normally again. Seems to happen every time you throttle on when cold and less often when warmed up. I'm planning to read maf sig voltage with a multimeter and do some tests. Ideally I'd like to find what resistance I need to remedy maf voltage range. First I need to confirm it's going out of range. I've put in a filter out of a skid steer next to the vnt actuator. Only thing I haven't done is adjust vnt screw. I have a complete td42 but am just trying to make the zd30 more drive able until after summer before swapping engines. Thanks again for your help.
@@johnnywadeson9335 Sometimes 15psi can do it, you didn't mention whether you had cleaned the MAF or whether it is a genuine one. When testing MAFv remember that the general limp zones are hitting 3.88v at 2500rpm, 3.98v at 3000rpm and 4.18v at 3500. Air is more dense when engine and climate are cold, we call it cold limp, sometimes when you are just on the verge it will only happen when cold, as engine warms so does incoming air.
Hi . John here , i always read you on patrol forum . Im not good on computer. Could you please give me some advice on leaking diesel near injector pump. Crd zd30. Thank you
I have noticed on my filter change & Mass air flow clean out (Yesterday) how restrictive those darn mess type filters are, More of a bottle neck for the air intake, no wonder the Patrol y61 (zd30) is so darn slow amongst other issue of course.
I haven't even checked mine! I found bugs of all types in the old filter I am just replacing. Goodness knows where I'll find that seal, but nice to know. Thanks for sharing. Be well. 👍
mine was doing it also on a 4.2lt diesel Nissan patrol, I just swapped it over to a 4601 today and I will see if its different after the thread sealant sets. I haven't got a dedicated relay or special power source though which I think it need but the 4600 survived for 2 years in harsh conditions in rugged far north QLD Australia under a 4wd so no complaints about its performance. I only got 3psi after my filter on the engine side on idle so I upgraded today as I said to get more flow when I am pushing it.
Hey mate, I'm looking into this and want to know if there's any mods I can do 1 at a time as I don't have all the money right now for the lot of it. But I just brought a 2005 Nissan patrol gu st and it's done 360,000 kms. The motor is in really good condition but should there be some things I could be doing to maybe keep it going for as long as I can before a rebuild? Thanks Taylor
Works bloody marvellous, I only use 10% meth just to keep water 'clean'. Have since done a turbo up grade to an Eclipse which is a larger turbo that doesn't lose anything down low and gives good performance right throughout the range, makes a massive difference. The turbo inlet is larger so a larger bend is comes with it which I have modified to accept a very similar setup, but this time the nozzle is only a couple of mm away from the comp wheel shaft, have close to 10,000k on the new turbo without issue and the old turbo had close to 100,000k of pre turbo on it with no issues when I decided to go bigger.
