Hey! I'm Jon, a self confessed greasemonkey and a passion for fixing and repairing cars, motorcycles and almost anyting else! I love to reduce waste and extend the life of items that still have lots to give.
For sponsorship enquiries, please email: fixitwithjon@gmail.com
Good video, I’ve just replace mine this evening, just undid the top drop link nut for easier access and ARB tension release and managed to replace the bushes, definitely a fiddly job! Around 90 mins start to finish, on axle stands
Thank you for your guide. The trunk handle on my E90 works fine but the rubber is deteriorating rapidly, so a change may be required. Two questions: 1. What thickness of pry bars did you use? 2. Other videos suggest removing the trunk inner lining and such. Any clue why they go those extra steps ? It doesn't look to me they are needed unless the license plate needs removal, and even that.
I removed all the bolts last night and my issue is really figuring how to get any room to play with for your hand(s) while the wheel arch liner is still there, but most screws are unscrewed. I did manage it eventually after a lot of swearing, but now I start to wonder how I'll be able to mount those screws again when I'm putting it all back together. I use a drill with a long bendable attachment and another drill attachment which is a 90 degree extension so I can alter the angle dependant on what I need. Even though this works wonders for many applications, it was proper hell to find a way to reach especially the innermost bolt of the two, because I just cannot see what I'm doing because the bloody liner is constantly being in the way. I thought before I was going to do this that I would have clear sight and good enough access to those two bolts, but given how hard the liner is it is giving you hell. EDIT: I have to say though that my car is on the ground with wheels on(obviously) which does not help. I do not have a flat and hard surface to put my car on stands, so it is what it is.
I plan on doing this fix for my watch but I'm not gonna lie, I'm pretty terrified that the replacement battery will explode while the watch is on my wrist... 😅
@doezer999 yes almost certainly the same procedure or very very similar. I did one on an old Peugeot 206 years ago and it was almost identical on that too. The process is fairly standard. The Mk2 Octavia was a lot easier to work on in many respects - no need to remove the bumper to change the headlights for example. So you might find it's a bit more straightforward.. Just take your time, and think logically - you'll be fine :-) Let me know how you get on?
Thank you Jon, you are an absolute LEGEND. Was wrestling with fitting the chain and the quick link and then I watched your video and BOOM 💥 it was done. I was in shock. I am going to link your video on my Amazon review to help others. Thanks again. 😀😀🥳🎉
Thank you so much for this video. With the help of this video I was able to replace the bearings on my Siemens iQ700. We actually left the outer casing hanging in the springs; it was a bit clumsy, but that way we didn't have to remove the motor or the heating element or even most of the electrics. Removing the bearings themselves was a hard job because they were broken and rusted into the drum casing (the machine is 14 years old), so it required like 2 days of knocking and pulling and lubricant. But once that was done, putting in new bearings was straightfoward, and the video helped in putting the machine back together. Really appreciate you sharing this, I never would have endeavoured this without a video guide to rely on, and now our machine runs anew :)
Thank you so very much for this detailed tutorial, it’s by far the best I have seen and the only one that really gives me confidence to do this myself. I have owned two polo 9n and this issue has affected both of them on different doors. There are tutorials on how to fix the micro switches that cause this issue, but seeing how much work is involved in this I feel more confident just changing the whole door lock mechanism as you did. I took the boor card off once to take a look and stopped when I saw the steel plate behind the door card, even taking the door card off I would have benefited greatly from your tip to turn the door card upside down to remove the door latch cable .
My VW Golf is from 2018. However, I do not see any inscription “with Sillikat” on my reservoir. Can I then assume that I do not have a sillicat bag in my reservoir?
My VW Golf is from 2018. However, I do not see any inscription “with Sillikat” on my reservoir. Can I then assume that I do not have a sillicat bag in my reservoir?
Thank you so much for posted this. I am a pretty good wrench and I almost gave up trying to do this not knowing how. Now I do know how and WAY less difficult! Thanks you! -Larry
@@FixItWithJon Yes , latest version , the coolant pump attached to the timing belt is pure mechanical, security access is accepted but there is no option for bleed
Great video! Can you tell me if the two drain bolts are the same part number? You listed the bolt for the front of the engine which I'm guessing is the one just above the oil filter. Is that the same as the main drain bolt (down by the shifter)?
Thank you! This was very helpful and following each step I was able to fix this myself without too much hassle. Those metal clips are a bear to get the dispenser loose though!
The Shimano instructions state: 'Loosen the chain' which makes no sense. I suspect they are nervous about heavy-handed users causing a permanent bend in the link, so they decided to be ambiguous or misleading. Thanks for confirming what I suspected was the only option.
I followed Shimano instructions but no joy. I followed the video which helped with the bending but the best I could manage was to locate the link on the pin but not fully home. The bending kept pushing the pin out at the back so I only had a slight bit of the end left to play with. A gentle nip with some pliers gave me the satisfying click that it was fully home.
