Scott is a Retired Civil Engineer. He's decided to try to put his 40 plus years of DIY knowledge into the public domain. Doing the sort of projects you'll see in the videos were things he and his son shared.
The emphasis is on DIY projects, repairs and modifications on cars, motorcycles and your home.
Did this and worked a dream but must have put too big a spot on it as now 4wd low and engine prewarm not working which require neutral to be registered to work. There is continuity when in neutral, will have to remove and grind back a little - don't suppose anyone knows what the exposed length should be?
Wonder if anyone can please, Vito 2017 euro 6, was blowing out lots of greyish smoke slight blue tint, cleaned the DPF still the same, so changed the DPF pressure sensor and it stopped smoking and drive great fur about 6 hours with no smoke at all, But it’s now back smoking, engine idle is a bit rough too, any ideas what else I can check? Would a bad a PCV Valve cause these issues? Any help and advice appreciated
Hi Scott. Thank you for your videos. Still using the catch can on a W639? No more oil leaks? Is steel wool mod safe? I thought about pieces getting sucked in the turbo
Thank you Scott, most helpful. I found I could do the job by turning the steering to full lock & removing 4 trim clips & one screw to pull the liner back far enough without removing the wheel. My light was smashed following a trip.
the serial number for my rain car senser is A204 820 1285 i replace it by another one under number A 204 901 7801 unfortunately is not working please advice me thanks
@Aardvark49 yes the audio is sub standard as it's an early video. As for talking too fast, others have said I talk too slowly, so should I use fake AI generated speech? It's easy to criticise. Feel free to make a video tutorial about pressure bleeding brakes ... explaining at just the perfect speed so you can show the rest of us.
scott thank you very much for this informative video. i went for ride out last weekend and could some grinding noise in the front wheel, i think my wheel bearing are on their way out, now i can go and check them thanks to your help. got my sub
Thanks for making this, my electric kick scooter does 85km/hrs and without a damper I would die from death wobble and today my damper cap came out and leaked all over the sidewalk ...now with this I can fix it myself
You have to squeeze the release tab to "unlock" it while pulling at the same time. It tends to get stuck because it's under the car and obviously gets dust/dirt in it. Give it a good squirt with water before hand and some silicone spray to hopefully free it up.
@@ScottElliott152 Yep its fairly gummed up, also have you heard of or experienced surging and black smoke going uphill related to the NPS not working correctly?
@@kymf06 No I've never experienced that nor have a I heard of it. The CC is just operating the throttle based on a feedback loop from the speed signal so I can't see how that black smoke problem has anything to with the CC system. It would also happen if you were manually applying throttle to go uphill. As soon as the NPS switch is triggered the CC goes off and stays off until you hit "Resume" or set it again.
As I state in the introduction ... some manufacturers recommend a pressure bleeder is used in cars with anti lock brakes (ABS) ... which is all cars these days. As for the reasoning I don't know so perhaps some google searching might shed some light on it. From experience I've found you can still do the old fashioned method by having an assistant pump the brake pedal, however a pressure bleeder is easier and it's a one person job.
Amazing Video, We need more solid pure information like this here in RU-vid. Most of the RU-vidrs made it like source of income from misleading others and advertising useless products. This video should get millions of likes . Thanks Scott 🙏
Thanks. You can buy on Aliexpress and the price varies depending on your choice but around $AUD600 for a HDD with the preloaded software and the multiplexer/cables. Search for MB Star C4. The easiest way is to buy the full package loaded onto a refurbished laptop for about $AUD1200 to $1500.
Hi there. I have a question, i have 2007 cbr600rr i replaced the fork seal and bushings. Im trying to set my rebound dumping and the service manual says 2.5 turn from full hard and so i did, i notice that the other is higher than the other. Also when im turning my preload, the rebound is turning as well, is that normal?
@phantomrenegade11 I'd take a guess your fork caps need the damping screw adjusters reset so they're both the same. I haven't done it for years because I've been running Ohlins 30mm R&T cartridges. I know you can download the workshop manual for 07/08 CBR600RR so that's worth referencing.
Do extended upper arm ball joint add positive or negative camber? I lifted my truck and now the negative camber is maxed out . And planning to install an extended ball joint. What do you prefer ? Lower or upper arm ball joint?
On my Nissan it added a slight amount of positive camber which was corrected with a wheel alignment. I'm not sure what your second question means ... do I prefer upper or lower arm ball joint so you need to clarify.
At 1:59, I removed the earth lead first. Not only is it good practice, but it has to come off first to slide the battery out to get access to remove the +ve lead.
@@marcjianpastrana9707 There is no drain plug other than the lower bolt that secures the cartridge to the bottom of the forks. The video is a factual record of what I did.
Thanks for the video, are you sure its MB235.3 as that comes up as diff oil when I search for it, in your comments you say 236.3 but the video says 235.3.
@@dunk8157 For interest I use Penrite oils which are available in the UK. I use this power steering fluid in my Vito and W204 C320CDI. If you look under specifications it quotes MB236.3 and MB341. penriteoil.com.au/products/pas-fluid-power-assisted-steering-fluid I also use their engine, diff and auto transmission oils and their engine coolant all of which comply with the Mercedes MB numbers.
@@ScottElliott152 Thanks, I had a look and the Penrite is £24 in the UK, The Febi Bisltein part no 08972 was £7, I think Penrite is maybe imported from the US wheras the Febi is I think German so common in Europe. The Febi matches MB236.6 but I'm not sure about MB341.
hi.. your videos are brilliant..thanks for taking your time on doing this ... i have om642 3.0 v6 viano... should i use as it says 5w30 or 5w40 oil(mercedes genuine)? thanks in advance
I've been using 5w-40 full synthetic in my Vito and my C320CDI (OM642 V6) for years without any problems. However Australia is a hot country so you need to make sure you choose the right grade of oil for your climate.
@@bc-mr1si No I don't but there's plenty of information out there on adjusting preload if you do a search. It's also detailed in the owners manual which is also available online.
What brand exhaust is the one from the thumbnail? I believe it’s what’s on my new to me bike right now and I can’t seem to figure out what the brand is.
I want to flush my c180 w204 with flusing detergent prior to changing the eo. I want to extract the oil using vacuum extractor. Do you think it is safe instead of draining through drain plug. What amount of detergent left is ok with new oil
If the suction hose of the pump is on the bottom of the oil pan, then you'll get all the flushing oil out. Modern engine oils have detergents anyway, so in my opinion, flushing oil isn't necessary. Having said that, if you're happy with the additional expense, it won't do any harm.
My sensor works sometimes (No reasction vs over reaction in rain) and auto lights seem slightly unreliable. No error codes. Just know it had a replacement screen at some point. Any ideas on fix? Thanks
Hi Scott, how's things? It's a long time since I've seen a new Mercedes video from you and I trust you are well! Anyway, I am just about to replace my thermostat on my 2011 Mercedes ML300 with 642.820 engine and I am wondering if you have access to the technical data sheet for the torque specifications of the the thermostat housing bolts? Thanks Andrew
Hi Andrew and yes I'm going ok. I haven't made any Mercedes videos for a while because I haven't had to do many repairs ... which is a good thing. Those thermostat cover bolts are M6 and tightened to 9Nm.
Thanks for the video. I had hoped that KONI had a more customer friendly way of adjusting the shocks than how I used to do it decades ago but maybe not possible without external and more expensive adjustments. I'm planning on going with these or the 90s on my 2015 Xterra Pro4x (U.S. spec,) but I'm thinking that adjusting the front shock/spring assembly will be much more of a hassle. I'm trying to curb side to side movement while on uneven dirt roads and trails as well as taming washboards. I'm not doing any rock crawling or high speed desert runs. Slow and steady Baja California and California mountain trails and dirt roads/trails. Also, I'm not looking for a stiff ride. I do load up my Xterra from time to time taking lumber and tools down to Baja but I also happily use my Firestone air-ride system out back for when needed. Then I can still air it down when not needed to keep things from being always harsh when unloaded. Your thoughts? Thanks much.
These adjustable Koni's are great for the rear on a leaf sprung solid axle. As you can see it's not too difficult to set the rebound damping. It takes a few trials to arrive at a setting. However the front is a different story. If I wanted adjustable front shocks I'd buy something with external adjusters as unbolting, compressing and twisting is not practical or easy on the front struts ... it's certainly not a trail side adjustment. Experimenting with more rebound damping will probably help with the side to side movement but appropriate springs for the weight over the front are also important. I have the King springs KDFR-70EHD on the front. I have a bullbar (weighs about 50Kg) and 3mm steel bash plates and found the EHD spring better than the HD version. My ride quality is good on the highway and is definitely not too harsh or stiff I've just returned from a remote expedition on the south coast on the west end of the Great Australian Bight and experienced sections of severe washboards (aka corrugations in Australia). From experience I've found low pressures and high aspect ratio tyres are the most effective mitigation strategy. I dropped my pressures to 18 psi hot and the washboards weren't really an issue providing I didn't try to go too fast. I run all terrain Kuhmo AT52 235/85 x 16 on 7" wide rims. These give me a long footprint like a dozer when the pressures are reduced. At 12 psi to 14 psi my Nissan pads across soft beach sand like a camel.
@@ScottElliott152 that’s the exact same tire size that I used to run on my 96 trooper. Tall and somewhat narrow, but still never failed me in the traction department in all sorts of terrain. They were Yokohama Geolanders which have a very tame tread pattern, but still were excellent tires on and off road. Thank you for all of that information. It’s going to be a great help. I didn’t want to spend crazy money on the suspension since I honestly don’t drive that much at all anymore, but I’d rather have what is right with my grievances when I do go off-road. Have a great day.
