You are the first person who knows how to teach and explain correctly. The person who does not learn with you is better to change for something else. Thanks for everything.
Thanks Kendall for the kind comment and stay tuned as I'll be doing one on a dishwasher where it will get a little involved. Much more so that you typically will see. Have a great New Year!
Excellent video, I learned a lot. I was asked to repair one of these yesterday. Turned out it was just a broken belt and was a bit disappointed. Many thanks.
Great thorough video. I've fixed several of these timers because the replacement timers often cost more than the dryer is worth. If you stop the video at 59:26, you'll see that there is a retaining ring pressed around the shaft that holds the cover to the shaft and cam. You can spread that retaining ring out a bit and remove it from the shaft. This will allow you to lift the cover without lifting the shaft and cam. The lever placement on the cam is critical, so it's best not to lift it out. I believe that the contacts are a silver alloy. The flexible copper arms/levers have a hole punched in them and the contacts are pressed into the copper. After years of use the hole in the copper will wear and the contact will become loose. This will increase resistance and cause extremely high heat at the contact, which will eventually fall out of the copper arm. Most of the ones I've fixed, I've found the loose contact laying inside the housing. I remove the copper arm from the housing, place the contact back in position and mushroom the back of the contact a bit with a small hammer. I then solder the back of the contact to the copper. I've done several over the last 6 years and haven't had a repeat failure yet. I also once found the same problem inside the centrifugal switch on the motor. When you turned the dryer on, the motor just hummed. The contact had fallen off of the copper arm that powered the start winding.
Thank you for the added info as I'm sure for the ones who reads your comment and implements it will get some added knowledge and save themselves some money. Thanks again and have a great day!
This is probably the most beautiful video I ever saw in RU-vid. Wonderful material, but also greatly explained and very educated, the language was also correct and very fluent...very pedagogical.
JUST A NOTICE!!! My dryer would not start. I checked everything, EVERYTHING, before taking it apart to test the motor. When I had performed the continuity test on the white & blue wire connect and then the white & black wire connect into the motor switch, everything was good. SO!! I did a VOLTAGE TEST where I put a jump wire for the door switch to mimic the door being closed. I put my multimeter on ACV 250. I plugged the dryer in. Set the timer to heat dry and pushed the start switch. BOO-YAH!!! It worked. So then I removed the multimeter probes from the connection and tried the start switch again. It is still working. APPARENTLY when I had pushed those probes into the wire harness, I snugged up a loose wire. EVERYONE told me that it was VERY rare that a motor would go bad on a Whirlpool dryer, especially a 3 year old dryer. I was about to load this dryer up and take it to a parts shop to put a new motor in. WHEW!!! Saved a few hundred dollars by checking everything.
Excellent content. The only thing ohms can confirm is a bad part. The end of your video about volt drop testing is the best way to understand if a part is good or not.
Thank you, sir! very educational video which helped determine that also need a timer for my dryer I am a fan of fixing before replacing with a new one. thanks again!
This is a very thorough rundown of strategies to troubleshoot appliances using schematics. Thanks for all your work on this presentation! I agree that voltage drops are a much more conclusive way to check not only loads, but controls as well. The drum turned and you smelled the dust burning off the heating element while operating the timer and start button (nice trick, BTW). That tells you those loads and the wires and safeties connecting them were intact. The only thing left is the timer switches. Great video!
that schematic seemed simple but was very complicated. another great video Doctor! Terry. Iam a big fan of checking voltage drop, most techs dont understand this concept. You were able to make this repair without parts. but I agree youl did the right thing.
Thx for posting this very helpful video. I just checked to see if a replacement timer is still available for my 35 year old WP dryer & it is not. Used timers are readily available on ebay but there's no telling what condition they'd be in. So I'm going to pull out my timer & do some contact cleaning & try to maximize its life.
The best video I have seen in RU-vid,Is because you really care about a person learning,,,,If you can do one showing how to add a start capacitor and run capacitor Thank you so much for the videos
Sorry for the delay as RU-vid did not notify me of your comment! I agree with you 100% that older appliances were built much better than today. And that's why we still have our older washer and dryer. Have a great day!
That's wise advice at the end, to vacuum dust and debris from the hose. When the motor has to work harder from inadequate flow, current draw goes up which puts strain on everything.
Thanks Dave for the comment and like the saying goes, take care of the simple things to prevent the bigger things from happening. Have a great evening!
@@stuzman52I agree: cleaning the lint at regular intervals (and especially during the repair since it’s accessible anyway) will not only reduce the risk of fire but also premature failure of the motor through overheating of the windings.
Why are NPC complaining that the video is long? Don't they know how to fast-forward? Why do people believe that we can achieve any purposefulness without sacrifice? I took this vid as a learning tutorial more that mere fleeting entertainment. For it was an opportunity to provide some necessary skills in diagnosing such equipment.
so i have a whirlpool dryer that the timer advances even when the motor is not running. So based on what I have learned in this video, the one side of the motor is the black 120v wire coming in, the other side in timed dry is the white/black wire, the centrifugal switch on the motor, the push to start switch, and the door switch correct? i have checked the push to start switch for resistance, and it ohmed fine, and the same for the door switch, so I guess that would leave the centrifugal switch right???
Possibly, it could be the centrifugal switch. But refer to your wiring diagram as it may be a little different from mine. You could place your voltmeter leads across the switch and before the motor starts, you should have close to 120VAC. When the motor starts and the switch closes, the voltage should be near 0V.
I'd like to try this. My dryer has a digital circuit board instead of the analog timer dial. Is it possible to test a dryer circuit board to see if it is malfunctioning? Tested and replaced all fuses and thermostats. Heat element tests ok No heat???
With any digital circuit board, take a look at the wiring diagram. You want to find all the inputs that's required before some particular output will be generated. As an example for your heater not working, does it have the voltage at the heater? If it doesn't, then most likely it's missing some input that's required. Good luck on your project!
I ordered the thermostats from Amazon. I also ordered the timer from Amazon, but it turns out that the timer was total garbage and I returned it. Since the thermostats were so cheap and of course comes from China, I decided to do another video to check its accuracy. If you would like to see that video, it's located here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ps1JLDroo90.html Have a great day!
does it matter it you switch the white and black wire on the clips of the push start button for my estate electric dryer..I forgot which wire went where
