This guy doesn't know what he's doing. He's just touching buttons. LOL. By the way, got my first Matag and supposedly the marketing ploy is that Maytag guy just sits around waiting for customer to call with issues and no one does. Well, its a bunch of bull shit. Had mine for under 2 years and it broke already. I called customer service and since it had no extended warranty they want $350 for someone to come and check and see if they can fix it. Why would i throw more money to junk when a new one costs about $800? Never ever again will i buy a Maytag which parent company is Whirlpool, associated with Kitchen Aid, and Amana. Just watch for this company's.
If anyone came here like I did, looking for how to unlock your washer because the panel is out or only beeps but nothing else is working and your clothes are stuck inside: 1) Unplug the washer 2) Get a thin flathead screwdriver 3) Lift up the lid a little bit and look underneath, there is just a thick plastic tab that pops out 4) Use the flathead to sort of scrape/push the tab back towards the washer a little bit at a time Once it's out of the way, the sucker opens right up and you can put your wet clothes in a bucket! lol
Mine just stopped making ice after we got back from a 13 day vacation. We unplugged it for hours and plugged it back up but it's still not making ice and it's not freezing like before any help will do. I read the manual but it's not much help outside of calling samsung for a repair lol.
I have the same fridge but the bottom ice maker isn’t working. I did everything you did and top one recycled but not the bottom one. Anyone else with the same issue.
Just tried, it worked! Note: I had to do this 4 times, then it worked just fine. All this happened after putting the machine in “clean the washer” mode. Hope this tip helps!
So, after it failed again, and unable to reach the plug, I tried this: on the main electric panel, I tripped and reset all the GFCI’s. BINGO! Washer power up, laundry in progress. After the July 4th holiday, I will call a licensed electrician to check the panel and install new GFCIs as needed. The washer was built in Canada about 2006, so replacement is likely. REMOVAL will be difficult, but can now be planned. Thank you YOUTube!❤😊
@@neilsherman2680diagnostic lights blinks but it’s stuck at 0. When I press start a couple of times, water fills in slowly but then I soon get LE error, what could be the issue. It’s 8yrs old washer.
This is great information no doubt @baraban916 . The problem is now, there is no manual inside the cabinet, I pulled the top and back open, and I cannot find a single mention of a service manual of any kind anywhere. AND no error codes show. Any hope in finding out what each of the few "modes" of diagnostic are? Someone mentioned up to 14, which there was not even close to that when I hit the start mode to cycle the was stages. Whatever stages two and three are do not move and register a "0" (zero). Cycle 1 spins fine, the rest either do nothing and barely make a noise or, like when the washer is turned on normally for a wash, it buzzes like it is going to start but does nothing but buzz. Any help would be greatly appreciated, no close laundromats - plus why would I want to pay that when I have the machines?
For anyone who can't figure out what he's doing: Turn the dishwasher off Press the power button simultaneously with the L and R Booster buttons. If you don't see the Time Left screen show all icons (like in video) Power down and try again Press the Auto button Press Start Shut door You're welcome.
It's the same 3 buttons for both models. The procedure is finicky/requires precise input, so keep trying. btw, the procedure won't work unless the washer/control panel is OFF. If you've tried a bunch of times & still can't get it, unplug the washer for a few hours/overnight & try again. If diagnostics won't work after that, the panel (or the PC board under the panel) might be bad(?)
I have the same dishwasher. I am putting it in diagnostic mode and it runs for 10seconds and gives me a C1 error code. No where in the repair manual states any C1 error code. I contacted samsung and they said its the Temperature sensor that is faulty. So I checked the resistance of the thermistor with the chart in the book and it corresponds precisely to the chart. So the thermistor is not defective. Whats happening is that the lower dishes do not get cleaned. When i bought it used, the filters at the bottom where clogged and dirty. After cleaning it washed much better but still the bottom didnt clean. only 1 time the bottom dishes got cleaned properly. I wanted to test the waterwall if its working properly in the diagnostics, but I cant get passed the C1 error code. Its getting frustrating.
@@GregB6193 I ordered a new control board just to test if it would fix it. My machine works fine now but will test with new control board when i get it to see if COde C1 is still there. Will let you know
@@GregB6193 So I changed the Main PBA Board this morning and my original Code :C1 is gone, but a new code is now appearing (1E or E1). I then put the machine in Service Inspection Mode by pressing AUTO-DELICATE-POWER at the same time for 2sec. I chose option n2 to test the circulation pump. It tested the circulation pump, but I heard the pump was a bit noisy imo and gave me error 7E. Then I started a normal wash cycle with some dished in it and after 6 min, the machine stopped and gave me an error code 7E. Code 7E: Motor gear is out of order or Sensor Vane is out of order or Vane is blocked. (Sated in the repair Manual) But Google is saying code 7E is the Waterwall is jammed and cannot move. THAT is what the main issue was in the beginning. the bottom dishes weren't getting cleaned. But sometimes they were. Maybe the "Motor gear" that is stated in the manual is the waterwall motor. Probably is. I will take the waterwall motor out and test it on the bench. Most probably that is the main issue from the beginning and also the Main board got fried. i will post my findings here asap. @GregB6193 Update: So I took apart the Waterwall Motor and tested the resistance, and the motor had open circuit. No resistance. So I just ordered part number: DD31-00013B on ebay ( www.ebay.com/itm/313849967243 ) i also took apart the circulation pump motor, disassembled it and saw sooo much sand residue in there. Cleaned it all and reinstalled it.
Update Aug 7 2024: I changed the waterwall motor and now Dishwasher washes amazing. parts changed in this: Control Board, Waterwall Motor, Cleaned circulation pump. I did a self test again and still getting E1 Error. I might put back the old board to see if I get different results. The board I bought from ebay was used, so i cannot know if it already had error in it.
Hey, just a heads up, while my icemaker did cycle with this code. It did not solve the problem then when the GE repair guy came, he said it erased all of the error codes so we couldn’t see any of the history of what was going wrong with my refrigerator. So he replaced the main board. Said if that doesn’t fix it, they’re a number of other things he could replace. He said I would’ve been better off if there were more error codes that could point directly to what the problem was.
I did not know my amana had a filter at the bottom. Cleaned it all up. Did the 3 button repeat...and no error codes. Running a test cycle with some citric acid to freshen up the inside.
