For anytime doing this install the u bracket the opposite way this guy did. It’ll help it from walking off the step. When u face the open end of bracket towards the rail it has no end to to bend and fall off
I got a question you might be able to answer. On my 2008 2500 cummins, i have the same setup there, and the fan seems to move with a reasonable amount of resistance, and it moves plenty of air at idle. My issue is that sometimes the fan just seems to be locked in for the whole duration of the drive. Checking the temp gauge, and it reads just under 200 degrees. When rpm goes up, the fan is just noisy as can be, and same with idling down. Would this be an issue with the fan clutch, or would it be an issue of the ecu telling it to kick on? Mind you, i dont use the A/C.
How much roughly did you run the screw to adjust pressure? Like are we talking multiple turns or just tiny amounts? I don’t have a gauge and don’t wanna turn it too much
You are a life and money saver! This is all it took to fix my low voltage signal. And credit to the Napa fellas for NOT selling me a new battery when I didnt actually need one!!! Thrilled to have found this video!!
I have a 2005 ram 3500 , béen having this problem recently , my alternator was bad and i noticed when i baught the truck 2 uears ago that the positive terminal on the passenger side was melted a little i replaced the alternator and seen the terminal glowing red and the alternator was pushing 19.0 volts , so i replaced the terminal and just checked it this weekend and its still pushing 19.0 volts , so i figured i would look into it more , seen this video , do thats the next thing i will check , probably wont be able to get to ot till next weekend.
Don’t buy anything but a genuine Mopar fan clutch. Did some engine work, went ahead and changed the fan clutch with an off brand from Rock Auto. Don’t! Just lost the warranted clutch. Going back stock!
Yeah…think got mine from the innerwebs and it was like 450. Rock auto was like 179 but when it quits going through the Rockies, I wished I’d have gone back stock. Funny thing is, the factory one was fine I just swapped out a bunch of the auxiliary stuff sense its 20 years old and I had the engine apart. Probably threw away a good fan clutch for nothing!
I’ve got the same AC issue on idle. Live in Vegas and we are peaking at 115 degrees these days. The truck will stay right around 180 on idle since the engine isn’t under load but will keep climbing as long as it’s under load. The part where I’m confused about is even at highway speeds I’ll climb sometimes even past 210 degrees. I have an oem 180 degree Cummins thermostat. I think I’ll try the fan clutch and see if that changes anything
You’re an idiot dude saying the sway bar linkage is supposed to be 110 foot pounds. Are you out of your mind? Wonder why your snap and bolts talking down gearbox steering gearbox. I just looked it up and I have a 2005 and it says on a 2005 2500 Cummins turbo diesel. 40 foot pounds dude that’s a big fucking difference in the top one is it supposed until it crashes but the bottom linkage and I don’t give a shit who are you who’s Makes the sway bar linkage is even there you don’t even do that exhaust manifold bolts 110 foot pounds. I believe the head bolts are only torque at 220 final torque foot pounds.
@@hogie1685 no I do not have one. the kit from o'reillys was cheap and the wrench ended up bending lol. My old neighbor is a mechanic and is going to come over to try with his kit. funny thing is, I replaced the clutch a year or two ago but cannot remember the direction to turn it
Well thats exactly what my truck did. Except i disconnected the passenger side and the voltage when back to normal and truck ran good. Ill try it i smoked on battery put a new one in and it started boiling in about 45min into my next trip
I'm a single woman who has to do everything on my own. I think you just saved me thousands of dollars. This might explain while my left battery. Looks like the post or fried. And the battery look like it was leaking. I put new batteries in and still had a charging issue immediately. Things were wrong, so I'm going to check that. Thank you.
Yes these auto meter factory match gauges just light up green. I wanted these particular ones cause they where factory match. I like auto meter and think they make a good quality gauge.
I’m not gonna lie to you, I appreciate what you’re trying to do but this video is incredibly unhelpful when trying to do this. It’s impossible to see what you’re talking about from so far away
I just clicked again! Just keep cables tight, clean and keep tight. There's a sensor under batteries. 14.1 volts. That crossover can get corroded in the middle. This has been sinse sensors were added.
Thanks for putting this up. Your video helped walk me through the project. I used a loaner tool set from Advance Auto. On reinstallation of the fan unit I found that using a wood working clamp on the upper shroud compressed it allowing a bit easier access to the shaft nut. Be very careful not to crossthread the fan nut as you reinstall. I used a Dorman replacement and found the last inch of the wiring harness was exposed. I covered the bare wire insulation with electrical tape to protect it from exposure and chafe.
My truck is doing the same. I had warranty on my batteries so i swapped em both. I let the truck sit over night, and went to start it the next morning....dead. like dead dead. Is this another symptom?
@@hogie1685 yes yes. I had literally all the same symptoms as you. Cleaned the terminals and battery ends, put a brand new battery end for the cross wire on the passenger side, and put the new batteries in both sides. I was done and test started it around 11p.m. I went to leave around 6am the next day, and the truck has zero power.
Had this happen after changing the alternator. I checked the voltage of each battery and driver side was at 12 and passenger was at 15. Cleaned the wires on the battery post and it fixed the problem. Thank you
