I’m a snowmobiler with 50 years of powersports experience. This channel is here to share what I know and what I learn to help those new to the sport feel more comfortable and enjoy the sport as much as I do. Thank you for stopping by, and I sincerely hope we meet some day “on the trail.”
I really appreciate your videos. I've been riding for 30+ years, but still learn things from others every day. I've watched several of your "beginners videos", and still managed to learn a few things. You're never too experienced to continue learning. Thanks!
I'm not as familiar with those, but have no concerns. I think that would be an excellent choice. Edge Touring means you'd get an updated suspension, both front and rear. The "Edge" suspension was the best in the industry before the advent of "rider forward" chassis designs. Those are really flat cornering and handle the bumps as good or better than anything before it from any manufacturer. As far as the engine goes, it's still the same Liberty 600. Polaris used essentially the same block for the 600 when they switched to fuel injection, even though they changed the name of the engine when they did that. To me, that's proof of how good the engine was/is - it took a long time to develop something better. Depending on price, of course, you can't go wrong with a sled like that - it will just keep running and running.
Great question. As a general rule, always match red-to-red and black-to-black. Depending on the age of the machine and if anyone has repaired those wires in the past, it's possible that both wires will be black. In that case, you'll need to trace them back to where they came from. A battery cable that goes back to something that looks "electrical", like a starter solenoid, will be the red positive wire. If it goes back to something bolted to the steel frame, then it will be the black/negative wire. I don't recall where the Sportsman's wires go, but that's a general rule of thumb for virtually any engine that has electric start.
That sucks. Are you wearing a balaclava? I wore the Fly Ignitor Air under the 509 helmet and that seemed to help. Otherwise, if there’s still too much pressure on your ears when wearing the helmet, try removing either the ear cups or the air bladders underneath the ear cups. Those are just held on by Velcro. The air bladders have little air hoses attached, but those are way to unplug. Worth a try, hope you can figure out how to make it fit better.
@@ponycarfan I tried the balaclava with no luck. The helmet itself just crushes my cranium and the rubber rims forcefully grab a hold my ears. I even noticed that my ears were bruised for a few days afterwards. Besides that, my bottom half was actually a perfect fit to this size. Disregard 509’s size chart. I definitely recommend getting a helmet that’s one of even two sizes larger. The website says it’s designed more for oval-shaped heads, but I’ve noticed the helmet has been more forgiving for riders with a more round-shaped head instead, despite it pushing their cheeks together as seen from various RU-vidrs. Truthfully, for any rider, it’s a hit or miss when it comes to the fitting of this helmet. I have an oval-shaped head, and like I stated, the original size I put on had already fitted to my lower half perfectly. I know for certain that if I go one size up, the lower half of the helmet will be too wobbly due to slack.
Thank you! It was terrible all over, which is very unusual. I spent a few decades snowmobiling in SE MN and when the snow is good down there, I loved it. The problem has always been that you never know. Northern MN should in theory be better off, but it wasn’t this year. I believe it will bounce back next season.
It looks like the reason you have holes in the back of the tunnel is because of an aftermarket tunnel extension that was riveted on and your skid and track were then extended several more inches.
I can understand why you’d say that, it does look aftermarket. However, Polaris offered a longer skid to accommodate a 133.5” track and the extended tunnel on the Trail Deluxe - it came from the factory that way, believe it or not. On the original Indy chassis, other models were offered as an “SKS”, and it was the same thing. www.vintagesnow.com/Polaris_files/85%20models.pdf
@@ponycarfan Wow, I would have guessed that was an aftermarket Frankenstein job. Good on you for knowing what your were getting in to. I would have bailed on that one.
I actually left my kill switch on the other side and then used the holes in the hand guard to make each side pretty even. It works either way. I guess it’s whatever is easier for the operator.
I have the same sled and noticed you have that same belt noise at low speed, kind of a whining sound. Whats your opinion on that, my first new sled in 20 years. Btw, managed to get about 400 miles on mine, really like it.
I hadn't really given that much thought. From last year's photo shoot until today, every Catalyst I've ridden does that. I'm not sure if it's related to the new belt drive (that replaced the chain case), or if it's on the other side of the drivetrain. Congrats on the new sled!
I have both a Tekvest and the 509 R mor vest. The Tekvest is bulky and can be bothersome while riding. The R more is super light and you forget you're even wearing it. I put it on over my base layer, but under my riding jersey. That way, when you stop to eat, you don't even have to take it off. The Tekvest definitely has a lot more protection than the R mor. That being said, I haven't wore my Tekvest since I bought the R mor and wouldn't go back to the Tekvest. Bottom line, if you want max protection, buy a Tekvest. If you want some protection without any "side effects" get the 509 R mor. I would recommend the R mor.
I have a Tecvest, I haven't used it in years because it was too stiff and it was uncomfortable. That 509 looks interesting and it's pretty cheap at $140 on Amazon.
Glad you were able to get a few miles in this year. I was a little better in Maine. I ordered a ZR 858-137 with ATAC. I currently have a ZR9000-129 with Fox QS3 3-position shocks (same shocks as the ATAC). They are outstanding shocks but I only ride them on the softest setting. What a ride! I expect to use the softest setting on the new sled too. I will miss the pure acceleration of the turbo 998, but I love the looks and ease of steering on the Catalyst and will make up for the power.
I’ve never worn a chest protector. Of course I’ve also been lucky to never break ribs either. I have broke a collar bone getting thrown from a sled though. I don’t know how much it would have helped though with the angle I hit at.
With the economy and the rising prices of snowmobiles in going to keep my 19 Indy xc800. We did a total of 200 miles this winter. Thanks for the content
Ordered a 858 Riot with the cobra track. I use a Troy Lee dirt bike soft protection gear for off trail riding. It breathes and is flexible enough for comfort. I have a TVeks but it's to bulky and stiff so I think it hinders body movements to much for my liking.
That's awesome! I have a 1.6 Cobra on my 21 Riot and it's a good track. However, I think the 1.35 is a better fit for majority trail riding (which is what I do). Compared to the ProCross Riot, the Catalyst platform is unbelievably better. The 858 is going to be a great engine, too. Thanks for the advice on the chest protector, that's kind of where I'm leaning.
@@ponycarfan I bought the 2024 ZR600 137" ATAC Catalyst and was able to put on 1050KM this weak winter. Only 2 things I needed to do was upgrade the carbides (6" Woody Slim Duallies) and adjust the limiter strap to the middle hole. Super fun, light and zippy sled. Love the 600 motor for trail riding. Can't wait to ride the 858 Riot with the 1.35" cobra track.
We had enough to make riding worthwhile. It was light and fluffy here, and with no base underneath it, it felt like I was riding on a parking lot - nothing for the skis to grab onto. However, it was still fun and I’m glad Mother Nature gave us one last chance. Melting has started and it sounds like this will all be gone in a couple more days.
So I just bought a new 2024 Riot 600 1.75” IFP because my dealer was having a big Spring sale on left over sleds. It was time to trade off the 2016 SR Viper. The Viper was a good sled, but was at that point… when are things going to start going bad like bearings etc. Anyhow I cannot find a tool kit with my sled. Has Arctic Cat deleted it to save money or did my dealer forget it? I would have kept mine out of the Viper if I had known. I used several tools in there often for adjustments or changing plugs.
Congrats! The Catalyst Riot is a good machine. You'll appreciate the overall ergonomics and the super light weight "feel". Every time I go from my 21 Riot to a Catalyst, it's instant relief, so much easier to stay flat in the corners and feel at home on the sled. I love my older Riot, but the new catalyst truly is a game changer for Arctic Cat. One of my buddies from the Catalyst photo shoot bought the exact sled you have and loves it. He went out to Wyoming this year and said it did a great job off-trail, as well as on. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.... I think the last Arctic Cat sleds to get an actual toolkit were either the 2019 or 2020 model year - nothing since then. The only thing you get is the L-shaped bolt for changing drive belts. I come from the old school of sledding, where anything could - and often would - break on a snowmobile, and a toolkit was a lifesaver. So, I built my own toolkit for each of my sleds. Fortunately, except for a 10mm wrench to tighten the handlebar riser, I haven't needed much for tools on the snow. But, I'll continue to carry a kit, just in case. Unfortunately, the other thing that's missing on the Catalysts is a rear storage bag, so there isn't even a place to put a toolkit (from the factory). I bought a 17L tunnel bag, mainly because it fits up tight against the seat and looks "factory". Let me know if there's anything I can do to help your transition. I think you'll be very happy with the Catalyst.
@@ponycarfan Thanks for the information. We are in a winter storm watch in the Black Hills so maybe there will be enough to ride it around. If not I’ll have to wait until next winter. Fingers crossed with the El Niño going away the weather patterns will be better next winter.
There isn't a bag there under the seat any more, it's just an indentation that looks like a compartment. The seat release is back there and is blocked by the tunnel bag I have. Some of the accessories don't block it, though. However, since it's a quick release latch, it's still pretty easy to access the battery under the seat if needed.
Back in the old days, skis were steel and the ski loop was also steel. You could bend a ski loop, but it wouldn’t break, so that made a good spot to hook onto to tow a dead sled. Now that the skis are plastic, you never want to pull a snowmobile by hooking to the ski loops. You always want to hook to steel or whatever is strongest. Depending on the kind of tow strap or rope you use, you can run through the ski loops as long as you actually hook to steel. That will make the dead snowmobile follow the tow sled. But, if the rope is too short, it will put too much pressure on the ski loops and could break them. So, in that case just hook to the ski spindles. In summary, with plastic ski loops, always hook a tow rope to something steel like ski spindles. They are much stronger than plastic ski loops. Does that make sense? Next season, try it with a buddy to see how it works.
@@ponycarfan Thank you for the explanation, I will try it sometime next winter. One question that I have submitted is how to start a snowmobile when the electric start is not working. I have seen videos for using a rope on the primary clutch. Those are for two stroke sleds. My ski doo is four stroke and I am trying to get an answer for that question. Thanks again
