CrazyEngines channel is dedicated to the practical study of the model engines, it's components, for engines bench testing & tuning, learning about its internal construction and design specialties, as well, as for reviews of different devices and tools for DIYers.
Love to find out from you where you bought the spinner?
13 дней назад
Totally agree, I have 170, same problem from new. Morris Mini Motors converted to petrol, mod back plate electronic ignition, it’s a different engine now, doesn’t miss a beat.
Hello, im new here and enjoy watching your work, GREAT job!! each and every engine here is jewelry. You must try and get hold of a Kavan FK50 also any of the HP and Webra four strokes.
I restored a gemini FT120 II but I can't find proper carb setting. What are the stock screws setting for carb? I can't find the manual for this engine 😢
I would be one of those nuts to convert to glo fuel. 5-8x expense vs gas is nothing compared to a day of golfing, one night out at the movies or dinner. 🤑 Thanks for making the glo plug and spark ignition comparisons and showing the 180 carb installation. I've never had issues with spark ignition with glo on single cylinder engines. My guess is that the ignition timing is not for optimal glo use on that FG60 (too advanced?), or one of the cylinders is not as tight as the others (compression, valve seat/leaking by). Did you ever resolve the vibration issue?
Dear friend congrats for you video ..one question i have a saito FG 20 but it is impossible to set up xnd tovrun with gasoline ....i am thinking about to run it with spark plug and glow fuel like you have demonstrated ... Do you know this configuration could wirks well? Could the engine to be economic in fuel too even if i use glow fuel?
Predictable results....The spark ignition will always give the best results due to the precise timing of a spark ignition system....The Nitro provides oxegen and just helps the gasoline burn faster. Nitromethane and four strokes = Rusty bearings....from Nitic Acid residue.....🤔🙄😳🇬🇧
excellent congrats for the video....... one question does the G5 works better than original spark ignition? more RPM at the maximum? i saw in the video, is it correct? thank you dear and congrats again.
Thank you for your vids, very enjoyable! Just as a comparison, these engines are very strong and are also suitable for aerobatic type models; for example, my TT54 turns an APC 12x8 at 8450rpm static on FAI fuel. Pitch speed will be about 70mph, as the Rolls Royce salesmen used to say, quite sufficient. 😀
I have this engine also, love the sound of the four stoke glow engines. Most of my 40 and 60 size airplanes have four stoke OS and Saito engines. I use the OS F glow plugs in all of my four stoke engines.
Hi and thank you for your question. Basically, eBay is one of the more or less reliable sources, but definitely, I would recommend RC Japan web store: www.rcjapan.net , the only problem is delivery time. Thank you and have a nice day !
Having the engine on a proper timed ignition is very desirable. The glo plug is not really suitable because the timing is uncontrolled. Reducing compression ratio and retardation and advancing timing is crucial to prolong engine life...Get it on an ignition system is my advice....🤔🙄😳🇬🇧
It researched this engine prior to buying it ( two weeks ago ). Didn't find any negative stuff. Now I find this video and comments. Just my luck. I have some of the symptoms described here. Some vibration, # 3 throwing oil and misfiring. I have been in RC for a long time and am now just able to afford this engine. I thought Saito was a quality product. I will check the timing on this propdrive and see how far off it is. It is hard to believe Saito would do this on purpose or the quality control is non existent. we shall see.
Thank you very much for your comment ! Definitely, I was very surprised finding this thing, timing mismatch and uneven fuel distribution. I decide to stop investing the money into this engine, because it will becomes half price more expensive, that stock price ( this is without my personal time investment). Let it be...
Hello Sir Crazy Engines- I’ve recently found your channel and love the videos you produce. As an Engineer I appreciate your thoroughness in evaluation and data collection. For stuck piston pins, I have used a micro butane torch to apply heat directly to the underside of the piston with some penetrating oil. It may take a couple applications. Give it a try. May I ask what part of the world you are from?
Hi, and thank you a lot for your kind comment and for your question. I'm from Ukraine. Regarding cutting the connection rod story - I should say, that before cutting the conrod I spent a tens of hours, going to heat up the stacked piston pin assembly with a heat gun, but with any result. That was the reason, why I decide to cut and to throw away a working 20 bucks part. You can imagine, that in an hours one of mine subscribers, and friend Tom (he is professional aero engines mechanics), gives to me an advice, to heat the piston pin assembly more with a help of a butane torch. I've also two of OS FS 61 engines in more or less equal condition with a stacked piston pin, as well, as a very similar story with an OS FS 40 engine. So, I decide to check, will it works with much higher temps of the butane torch. The result was great, at first, this works nice (I found, that it could be easily pulled out), at second, both three engine were repaired in an hours. All of them are still in my collection, and after its repairing they are in excellent working condition. So, that means, that your advice really works, and thank you for that. Have nice day !
Sir, using that loading press for assembly is a great idea. Especially since I own two of them. I would not think to take a Dremel to the connecting rod. Looks like you had a very expensive but rewarding project.🙃
Hi, and thank you a lot for your nice comments ! Definitely, I spent a tens of hours trying to extract deadly stacked piston pin, and every unsuccessful hour really makes me incredibly upset. But one time, one of my subscribers, which is really very nice guy and high skilled aviation technician, tells me "heat it more, for higher temperatures". This advice was given to me unfortunately, after my conrod cutting adventure. Should say, that I've almost own two OS FS 61 engines in addition, both were in the same terrible stacked piston pin condition, Using my friend Tom's advice to heat it more, both of them were successfully repaired and right now all 3 is in exactly "like new" condition. So, I pay, of course, a little more (especially, if take into consideration, that all parts becomes museum rare to find items), but thanks to Tom's advice, I've got an exceptional repair skills. So, it is up to you, to make a conclusion of that story. Thank you and have a nice day !
Hi, hello and thank you for your question ! So, it's easy. Left nipple ( ! important !) from the pilot's side) should be connected to the pressurizing tube, through the check valve (one side throughput valve), to the fuel tank direction. Second, from the right side (from the pilot's side), is connected to the fuel supply (fuel sucking ) tube, Yamada is strongly recommends to install fuel filters into the both lines, due to the fact, that fuel mix is pressurized inside the engine crankcase, so to filter all small particles. You can find more details in the engine's manual here: www.yspower.co.jp/en/data/pdf/fz120.pdf So, thank you and have a nice day !
@@crazyengines88 thanks for clarify I always install in line fuel filters, i have more question, on left side the nipple that goes to high speed needle, is that fuel supply?
@@YannisGerasopoulos Hi, as far, as I remember, right nipple is for fuel supply, if I understand your question correctly. Please, take care to install "check valve" in direction to the fuel tank. This is crucial.
@@YannisGerasopoulos Hi, I can't confirm anything remotely, please, try to accept this. Better, if you will look personally to the engine's manual, where you can find an exact drawing you can find it and download it here: www.yspower.co.jp/en/data/pdf/fz120.pdf . Thank you for your question and have a nice day !
Heating the crankcase using a Heat Gun you can avoid pressing in new bearings. Using a press on a bearing is never a good idea if you can avoid it....🤔😏🇬🇧
Hi, and thank you a lot for your comment ! Sure, you're totally right there. But can you imagine, how much different size tools for bearings installation I should have with all that amount of engines in my tests and repairs ? I think, at least, 10 or even more. Also, should say, that all my engines runs very nice, without any hesitations to the bearings performance. Anyhow, you're totally right and thank you a lot for your comments. Have a nice day !
All that corrosion inside...?...Nitro methane did that....After running on Nitro, you need to flush out the bottom end bearings and crankcase. Why?...because burnt nitro causes Nitric acid and piston blow by allows it into the crankcase....Its a big capacity engine, run it on straight Methanol, it will be fine then....Better still on petrol...more efficient and cleaner....Only after a good run in period though...😮🤔😏🇬🇧
Hi, and thank you a lot for your comment ! Usually, after all test runs I make partial cleaning of the engine inside, in the style, like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D7irK5xAZ_Q.html, so, my own recipe after run oil works great, protects engine inside well. Was checked engine in the storage over two years - looks pretty like new inside. Regarding the fuel choice - I'm an old-school style man in this, I like the smell of a freshly mixed glow fuel. and I still convinced with a lot of my experiments, that engines runs clearer, cooler and better (less carbon build, more dynamics) on the glow fuel instead of gasoline. This is, of course, is the matter of taste. Definitely, I like your comment, thanks a lot and have a nice day !
@@crazyengines88 Yes, Nitro makes the engine less sensitive to mixture adjustment, it's true. The down side is, Methanol and Nitro aren't just very expensive compared to Petrol, the engine consumes approx 2/3rds more fuel for the same running time. Petrol allows for a smaller tank size in the model and easily obtainable fuel. It's also a lot cleaner running, even on a very generous 15 : 1 mixture ratio (around 7% oil)....No bottom end clean ups or bearing rot either...😳😏😏
@@EnglishTurbines Thank you very much for your soon reply ! Yes, of course, gasoline is more cost and energy wise much more effective fuel, no doubt. This is from practical p.o.v. Being more practical, contemporary technologies left well behind even so effective gasoline engines, too. Contemporary Li Ion batteries with brushless electric engines shows amazing effectiveness and performance, I also working with this in another project, but I'm still standing with my old glow style engines. It's much more emotional, than rational, but museums also need somebody to work in. 😃
@@crazyengines88 Lol, yes, I get it entirely. The smell of a four stroker belching out blue smoke and Nitro fumes...Since retiring, I've spent 9 years flying electric because my interest in FPV doesn't allow for noisy vibrating gas engines...That said, I share your sentiments and have recently purchased an OS26 FS No3....a delightful little four stroke..What set me off is converting an OS forty Surpass four stroke for a friend to run on Petrol. Runs like a dream, despite being a bit short on compression...on the original carb too with minor adjustments to the Needle valve assembly...😮😏😀
@@EnglishTurbines That's great, really. B.t.w., I'm also not a novice with FPW, currently working on 10" power body. Using so powerful motors from ReadytoSky (3115), so I still very afraid of ESC overloads (~ 70 Amperes per channel), every test it runs hot, so need to tune it very precisely in a Betaflights PID's adjustments. Anyhow, this is another story, probably, I'll find the time to make a few stories about this part of my projects. Was very nice to talk with you about this small and very beautiful 4 strokers. Thanks a lot, and have a nice day !
Thank you for your question ! At 7:24 in this video there was a banner with figures, to the standard gasoline mix (20:1), I was add 10% of Nitromethane, this percentage is calculated from the fuel mix volume. Thank you for your question, and have a nice day !
@crazyengines88 I understand that you added 10% nitro.....but how much of it did you add to the gas fuel?? One gallon of gas....did you add 10% of 10% nitro to the gallon of gas??
@@michaelhunt8414 OK, I understand, what you want to know. So, usually, for 1 test run I prepare 0.0792516 US gallon of fuel mix (300ml), so I add 10% Nitromethane from that volume, it means 0.00792516 US gallon (30 ml Nitromethane). Should note, that during my Nitromethane / Gas fuel mix evaluations I found, that maximum amount of Nitromethane, which could increase engine performance, is approx. 30%. Future increase doesn't make any improvement. Thank you for your questions, have a nice day.
Thank you for your Video's I have this same engine and as I mentioned in other places I changed the Timing Hub or Flywheel to the CH ignition version and myself found positive improvements in ease of starting and smoother running in general. I am a "Tinkerer"... one who likes to explore and make improvements when practical. I "Love" this engine, I crank it on the bench to hear it run "Twisted Sick". So to you and anyone else,. here is my question, after this general statement. We all know this engine has it's flaws "out of the box" . First thing I noticed and I must admit I tore my engine down before I started it the first time and did not like the "Cir Clips" on the 2 connecting rod pins. These seem to me that they could be thrown off at higher rpms. Does anyone else agree with me that a real snap ring... the snake eye type that take a set of snap ring pliers to install and remove correctly., Would be better served in this application. The cir clip is nice for ease of removal and installation if a quick manner. But would not a real set of properly sized snap rings give a better since of security that would require a valued effort to remove. I have not installed this yet in a plane, but I wanted to ask the question. Thanks in advance.
Hi and thank you very much for your comment ! I think, that I'm also a person, like you identified yourself. 😊Definitely, absolutely agree with you about FG60R3 engine flaws. This flaws were stopped me to continue with it, because I don't think, that is possible to fly with engine with such behavior. Unfortunately, I've no time to search deeply for circlips tools, for mounting and dismounting it's from the engine. Usually, I use small thin flat tip screwdriver to work with, of course, it's takes an attention and consumes a lot of time, especially if circlip suddenly jumped up from engine to the floor of your workshop. 😃 Thank you very much for your comment, I like it very much, Have a nice day !
Excellent test you carried out, showing us the performance of each glowplug brand. However, I note that the needle was not used to obtain an adequate adjustment for each type of plug.
Hi and thank you for your comment! Definitely, I'm not sure about the overall test conditions, there were a lot of other thing happens this time. Thank you very much for your feedback, I'll improve this moment during next test runs. Have a nice day !
Hi and thank you for your comments ! This prop was OK for whole series of 50 & 60th 4 stroke engines testing, so, for flying in different style of course, you'll choose the best suited prop. For comparison test was necessary to create equal. as possible testing environment, and prop size should be the same for all engines - test contenders. Thank you for your comment and have a nice day!
I saw the same problems with my FG60R3 that I bought in mid 2023. Bought the CH ignition hub and I found it was a tremendous improvement. I have not thermal checked cylinders yet but will in the next run. I notice cylinder 3 is dumping raw oil and 1 and 2 not so much. For now I am only running low rpm's and 16;1 red armor oil. Bench testing... I hand start my engine with no problems now, before it would kick back and would knock off without reason. Not Sure but it could be CH has a patten on their hub, (just a wild guess) At any rate the hub was a big help to me,. in my opinion. and I am happy with the improvements I saw. Now if this main rod timing will fix anything is next move. It is B$#!t to pay this much money for these engines and continue to have to spend fairly large amounts to tweak them further. Again this is my opinion,. be careful over revving these,. they are like a grenade once you pull that pin. Cheers
Hi and thank you very much for your comment ! Definitely, absolutely agreed with your especially with the additional (over a half price of a new engine !!!) price you have to pay to fix the simple engineering mistake. This is BS#, for sure. Due to the heavy workload this time, I can't find, unfortunately, enough time for FG60R3 engine, right now more thoughts about single cylinder Supercharging in automotive style. Thanks again for your feedback, please, keep the heads up. With best and kind regards...
Thank you for your nice comment ! Still has this one, I like it very much, it was very well adjusted, heads were aligned and perfectly lapped to the “zero” condition. Still is one of the best tape machines I’ve ever heard, using it as a “master tape” engine. Unfortunate y, nowadays I’m too much overloaded by my current job tasks, so practically haven’t no time to make videos about my engines, as well, as with my taperecorders , like Pioneer 707, Tanderberg and Nakamichi. Hoping, this time will arrive soon. Thank you and have a nice day !
hi Crazyengine I'm having problems with my Saito fg21, I use apc 15/8, Saito spark plug, the engine has 5 liters of petrol, the maximum rpm it takes is 8000 rpm, and the minimum is difficult to regulate, if I lose weight for having 1600/1700 rpm as soon as I accelerate it dies, to keep it from dying I have to grease the idle a lot, I have to open it even more than what is open at the factory, and so it doesn't puncture, but it is very fat at idle and you can't get low rpm and regular, do you know what it could be? A thousand thanks
Hi, and thank you for your very interesting question ! Definitely, I can't catch up what the problem is, may be, you have some short videos of your engine run ? There could be a real bunch of potential issues. Only one is clear enough - probably, the reason of such behavior is in carburetor settings (if you're not don't dismantled your engine earlier). So, will wait for your videos. Thank you and have a nice day !
@@antoniomoura9347 Understand. Definitely, I've no plans to install this on any plane, don't want to invest more money, it becomes amazingly overpriced.
