FPV is an amazing hobby with such a supportive community worldwide. I love everything about it from the electronics, old and new tech, physics of aircraft flight, innovation, cool-factor, and most of all, flying!
I started making content because although the likes of Joshua Bardwell, Mads Tech, UAV Futures etc make plenty of extremely awesome content that have helped me along the way, I felt some info on the cheaper parts and combinations available to users aren't available, simply because they all don't have the time to cover everything on the market.
I enjoy continually learning stuff about the hobby, sharing the knowledge I've gained, and hope that my content helps others out there.
If you like my content and wish to support me, please consider joining my patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=87203595&
Fancy buying me a coffee if my videos have helped you? www.buymeacoffee.com/nxp200
Main reason was at the time I couldn't source 300 mAh High Volt 2S batteries where I am. In fact they're still hard to find, although there are more these days. The other reason is lighter weight. 2s batteries come with extra battery lead lengths and the balance lead. Also I'm cheap 😂 and like to reuse what I have on hand
@@nxp200 fair answer I was just curious I’ve seen a few builds like this. Definitely a little lighter with that setup. I am going to build one soon. I have a vista I don’t really use anymore and want a nice small whoop. I will be following your video during my build. Thanks
Saludos. Ala fecha de hoy necesito el mismo firmware o ya en las actualizaciones nuevas hay soporte para las caddx nebula?? Disculpa estoy por recibir mis googles 2 y mi Unidad de video nebula saludos
It's likely that new units will be shipped with latest firmware, but it's best to check when you receive it and update if necessary. You'll need to use the DJI Assistant 2 (Consumer Drones Series) software.
You can also set up a second aux channel for throttle and activate air mode only at low throttle rather than using a switch. This helps to keep the quad from getting sucked into the wall if you tap it. I also like to turn crash recovery on in the cli, which briefly throws you into angle mode if you hit something, then straight back to acro.
Awesome tips! I do like the crash recovery but forgot about it during this video. I'll have to try out the low throttle air mode! Thanks for the comment!! 👍
There's a 4.5v pad next to the SBUS pad (which is also next to UART1 pads). That should provide power when the USB is plugged in. Use that to power the receiver and GPS
@@ko1n570 yep. That's correct. Components that have 5v input specified (such as receivers and GPS) actually can take a slightly lower voltage input such as 4.5v.
Personally the only changes I made were reversing the a30 plug and waterproofing with 422c conformal. I suppose the conformal has the same effect as your tpu. I am getting a lot of static when armed though. I'm on raceband 8 at the moment.
The new Gemfan 1219S. The only choice for the '24 Mob6! I've also kitted mine out with a tpu canopy (Mobula 6 HD canopy also works well) and a 1200 TVL Ant Nano!
Oh nice! Didn't know about the 1219s! Gonna have to put an order in. Been thinking about changing the camera too. I'll look into the 1200 TVL ant nano. Thanks!!
@@nxp200 Yeah they're lighter and smaller than the regular 1219, and as a result, they will never pop off or bend your shaft. You'll be happy with those!
On the new board V3.3 is much easier now to disable the VTX. Is just removing a bridged solder joint. Also has a video out pin now too. Much easier to fix it.
Firstime building this speedybee35 thank you for this video..im all set but i dont know how to set my props correct in bee35 do you have pictures or video sir?
I've only had a very short test flight line of sight. Haven't had time to take it out for a real flight yet to tell if there's any issues, but still far it seems to fly well.
@@nxp200 thanks for the response. I plan to do it in my Mobula8 (2S). Is it possible to convert the onboard Analog vtx by using an external Digital vtx? And maybe need changes in VTX settings in BF?
@@NBALMNBALM I believe the mobula8 runs the HappyModel X12 flight controller which does have a solder jump pad to disable the onboard VTX. I have a video on installing a Vista with the X12 here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UlwLXfdlgWM.html . Hope this helps
The flight controller in this video is the Mini and does not have the plug for the air unit. If you are using a different flight controller that has a plug for a digital air unit, make sure the pins are in the correct order, especially the ground and power.
Hey question about the radio settings, if betaflight recognizes my radio inputs sticks/switches do I need to program inputs/mixes in the model settings on the radio? it's a tx16s
I wish I had seen your video before I soldered leads to my flight controller. From high school I was told to heat the lead sufficient to melt the solder, I fried two flight controllers doing that. Your technique is what I learned to do.
Yep. I used m2x8mm for the HQ props I showed in this series. Make sure to double check the screw only expose approx 2mm when fully seated in the prop hub to avoid damage to the motor windings.
@@rattusrat yeh. My understanding is they're different in the fact that the Pro version has the aluminium mount moulded specifically to fit the O3. The carbon plate version is flat and has standard VTX mounting holes of 20mm and 25.5mm. But please do check with SpeedyBee to confirm.
Brilliant series nxp200. Thank you so much for creating this. This is far and away the best Bee35 series on RU-vid in my opinion. I plan to install the 03 Air Unit in mine in early May and it will be complete! I will continue to refer to this series when I have questions. Thanks again for such informative, interesting, and entertaining content. Happy flying amigo 🫡 🍻.
I'm using version 10.9.0 which you can download here: github.com/betaflight/betaflight-configurator/releases/tag/10.9.0 The install files are down the bottom in the Assets section.
your builts series of the speedybee bee35 are the most complete on internet. I just finish tunning and flying mine and I am pretty happy with the result, I used a pretune from UAV tech is far better than the speedybee you have used here. I added GPS and meteor led controlled by Pinoi so I can change color or even turn off the leds from the transmitter. My Only mistake was at the begening I was using props out and yaw washout was horrible, I just change to props in and it flies on rails. if you want to add meteor leds to a switch you have to solder the yellow cable of the meteor leds to uart3 and put this lines on CLI: resource SERIAL_TX 3 NONE resource PINIO 2 C10 set pinio_config = 129,1,1,1 set pinio_box = 0,40,255,255
That's awesome to hear you got a great build going! Those extra LED and GPS sound pretty good and I'll definitely give UAV Tech's preset a go! Thanks for your comment and sharing your info. Really appreciate it! 👍
@@nxp200 and I forget to mention but I screw the o3 unit to the aluminium plate and I didn´t use the 2 screw tpu mount so you can give some room there for the stack. I think speedybee modified wiout warning the alumnium plate a put 4 extra holes that matches bottom holes screws of the o3 unit.
@@moriwaky Ah that's a really good point. Not having to use the TPU and getting more room for the stack if using a different brand/model that's too tall.
Can I get someone to just say what needs done instead of their opinions? I don't need your opinion to fly a drone, I need the drone information!!!!!! Holy Shit be useful or don't be!
Hi man, watched all 3 parts but you didn't mention anything about he props how to put them in the correct order, I am struggling to put the props cause the 6mm screws wont fit right can you help?
@@SahilMore19 that's the next episode of this series. Apologies, but I haven't had time to finish editing the video because I've had to move house. Hopefully I can release the video soon.
