This channel is dedicated to our own small Motorcycle/ATV/UTV repair shop, we love all things powersports related, we love to have fun and get weird and we LOVE our furbaby's (who doesn't?) We appreciate all of our subscribers and followers who are helping build our channel. Thank you all so much!
You can do what I did, go to a Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki and/or Polaris dealer and start as an apprentice, work your butt off, take advantage of any classes the mfgr's offer and if its a Honda dealer, work towards the much coveted title of Honda Factory Certified Technician, this will take a minimum of 3 years, Honda will not let you do it faster than that ( I did it in 3, some guys never finish, it's hard). Save as much money as you possibly can and when you feel the time is right for you, find a small, inexpensive building to lease and just do it. You won't become a millionaire on this side of the business, but you can live comfortably if you're good with numbers and know how to budget if your area is seasonal. In Texas, we are pretty much year round.
Hi JWS How can I tell if my enricher is leaking? Bike 1986 yamaha maxim x 700cc, Mukuni bs 33 cv> It starts and runs with idle mixture completely closed. where is the fuel coming from. I get high idle 5k and then idle downs, then shuts off. Any help would be great.
I doubt you have an issue with your enrichener circuit, your problem sounds like a classic case of clogged pilot jets. The high idle is because the idle screw has been turned in too far to try to get an idle but actually causes the slides to rise slightly allowing fuel flow from the main jets into the intake. Clean your carbs, set the idle properly and synch them and you should to go. This video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LI1ecmr2eLY.html is a Suzuki but still an inline 4 and will be similar in many ways. I loved those 1980's Maxim's, I even had the privilege of throwing a leg over the Seca Turbo, awesome machine! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Take your time, if you notice I even placed a spring upside down in the video ( I corrected it before fully re-assembling ) but even I after 30+ years, still make ooopsies.
I have a 1988 force 50. It floods and a little bit of gas comes out the air side when it runs for a while….can you fix it if I mail it to you?…..or, can you tell me how to fix it? I’ll gladly pay for the service.
If you haven't already, replace the float valve needle, part # F10265, note that they will be branded as Mercury/Quicksilver, sadly Force has gone the way of the Dodo. If you have replaced it and the float itself is floating and undamaged, you may have to find another carb body as the seat is not replaceable by itself and may be worn and not round. We unfortunately don't repair mailed in components as we have had issues in the past that the carb or whatever component may not have been the actual problem and the customer is very upset that they paid for it to still not run correctly and were mad at us even though it wasn't our fault, so we adopted a strict policy of providing advice, rather than direct service. thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC your video gave me the confidence to remove my float needle and I discovered that a piece of the rubber broke off into the needle seat and made the float either get stuck open or stuck closed. I was able to force it out with my ryobi bike tire inflator. I reused the old needle since I didn’t know what part# would be correct and it’s working well as is. Now that I have the information I will gladly order a new one! Thanks, you save a lot of us by making this video and answering comments!
@@Kirk-md2he Thank you again for watching! I'm glad it was an easy fix! I have updated the part numbers and vendors in the video description to make part finding easier. Thank you for sharing your feedback and helping others to feel confident to "take the leap" and get that feeling of accomplishment when they hit the lake in their smooth running boat, that THEY fixed!
Question: any thoughts on stopping gas from leaking out of the carburetor? I thought it was initially the gaskets (bowl gaskets) so i replaced them all and it looks like it is leaking from the intake. Suggestions on a solution? (Its the 75hp version with the similar carb)
75hp is the same carb. If it is leaking like that it can be that the float valve is no longer seating, or the seat in the carburetor itself is worn. The float valve is replaceable, the seat would require the carb body to be replaced. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the informative vid. I have the same bike same paint and year just trying to figure out what’s going on with the way it’s running and wasn’t sure the best way to pull the carbs. 😎👍. Going to look for part 2 now
A very accurate and technical video, great job! I was wondering what you think of sea foam and similar products? Based on what you found in the carb bowl and jets I doubt that such products will work on that green sludge. I am interested to hear an expert opinion though.
Thank you for the nice comments. I will tell you like I tell everybody, if the jets aren't completely clogged, Seafoam "might" work, but if they are completely clogged, nothing is going through them, including the Seafoam. Using Seafoam as a periodic additive is not a bad idea to help maintain a good running machine, but in 35 years, I have never seen a "miracle in a bottle" make a non-running engine run all by itself.
I have this exact bike and i dont seem to have much acceleration or pull for that matter beyond half throttle. Bike starts great idles great and revs without load normally.... shift to next gear and power returns until half _ 3/4 throttle.... any ideas?
Typically what you're describing is related to the vacuum slides not opening under acceleration. The butterfly opens ( it's mechanical ) but the vacuum slide does not, this causes a lean mixture and lack of power. Check your slides closely for debris and the diaphragms for holes or tears. The slides should move all the way up and down without resistance, other than the spring of course. Also, be sure to check the main jet itself and make sure it is not restricted, that will also cause a lean condition and lack of power and acceleration. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC am i correct in assuming that if one is restricted from sliding, the other will not work simply because of laak of pressure from engine or would they both not work? Any ideas on how to avoid removing carbs and still correcting this possible issue?
The carburetor slides can and do work independently of each other, I have seen many cases where one works fine and the other doesn't. It would be great if these inspections and repairs could be done with the carbs on and not disassembled however, this is not possible, the carbs will have to be removed from the bike. Good luck!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC so after the first stages of the job, the left side tube was off the carb.... i manualy moved the slide and it was free.... put the tube back on and will test it later today... As of now lucky break!! Your quick response was amazing and very much appreciated.... Thank you sir!!
Awesome video! I just had the original one rebuilt, but now I have a high idle and very rich smokey exhaust. Also when you give a good blip on the throttle, the rpms stay high for a few seconds then drops down to the higher than normal idle. Never had done that before. No matter what I do with factory settings which are. The pilot screw spec in manual is to lightly seat then back out 1-7/8 turns. Jet needle in the middle 3rd groove. To resolve I tried to move it 2nd groove from the top, no change. Then highest groove and doesn't start at all. Moved back to middle, starts back to high idle/running rich. Helps if I had the rights tools as well. Trying to get to the pilot screw is a pain. I didn't know there were 90 degree 16 inch screw drivers till I seen your video. So I got one of those to help tackle this. My question is, why would this be happening? Going to try some ideas this afternoon. First is to turn on the choke to see if idle goes down, if so then it's more pilot screw adjusting. Second is to inspect the slide on the throttle cable. I've see others report the screw was stick on a burr on the slide and not letting it drop. Lastly to spray break/carb cleaner around the intake to see if there is a intake leak. Any other ideas are welcome if you have any. Thanks in advance!
I would check the pilot jet (low speed) really close, it could be idling off the slide, meaning that the idle screw is turned in too far to make it run at all. The slide should drop all the way down and bottom to allow the pilot jet to take over. That being said, the 200 cc series of engines for Honda were the first ones that I ever saw that would actually wear out a carburetor. The clearance of the body to the slide would increase causing a drop in atomization of the fuel, therefore causing the engine to run rich (sometimes VERY rich), I have replaced dozens of these carbs for that reason.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks for the info. I'm just about to start over again and rebuild with original parts cleaned up the best you can get it. Try that and test. Otherwise a replacement carb would be last option. I also made a video of what's happening. Check it out here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4oTFUzRZChk.html&ab_channel=Dirte883
I have a 1985 honda 200m 3 wheeler would this be the same carburetor procedure and is the carburetor for the 1984 the same as the 1985 which is the one I have...Thanks
Fantastic series of videos on the 500 engine. Do you have a recommendation for break in oil after a top end rebuild? Thank you for taking the time to make these vids.
It does just what @roo1670 says. Pretty helpful as those spouts do tend to dribble from time to time. I was going to reply with a picture of it hanging off the bottle, but that doesn't seem to be an option.
Agreed, RU-vid encourages cards but then they cover the video, they should pop up at the very end. I have asked about that and so far have received no response from YT.
This is a great video. I've never done this before but recently got a 2002 Trail Boss 325. I don't know any service history. It does run and is in pretty good condition. It seemed like it had some carb issues so I decided to try to rebuild the carb. It would start with the use of the choke, it hesitated but it would idle after disengaging the choke, with a little patience and restarting. It would die as soon as I gave it throttle. I was able to gradually work the throttle and get it to rev up and went on a quick test ride to make sure there were no major drivetrain issues. All good, so I've dug into the carb rebuild. Based on my research, I thought it would have a factory 145 main jet. I looked up the engine code, the manual said either 145 or 120 depending on the engine code. Seemed like mine was the 145. I live and ride at 7,500'+ in elevation so I ordered a new 137.5 jet. When I opened up the carb, the jet that was in there was a 115, based on the markings. I'm not sure which one I should use. Could the 115 jet be the problem? The carb and jets didn't look too bad when I pulled it apart.
What I've found is that the factory calls for a 120 and that's sea level to 8,000 ft. If you're at 7500 ft, that is so close to the 8,000ft limit, it might not be a bad idea to use the 115 and just see how it runs. The higher the altitude, the thinner the air, the less fuel you can burn with the oxygen available, so when you go up, the main jets go down. That being said, what you are describing sounds more like a pilot jet issue. The pilot jet supplies fuel for starting, idling and running up to 1/4 throttle, then the main takes over. Double check that the pilot jet has a hole through it and is clean. I would also screw the pilot screw in a half turn die to the elevation, for you 2 full turns from seat, instead of 2.5. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the response! Hopefully I can start reassembling today. Still need to empty the gas tank and replace a couple leaky fuel lines before I'm ready to test it.
Very informative video . I screwed up before I found this video.I thought there was a jet under the brass cap at back of carb and started drilling it out thinking it was a plug with a jet underneath.Pretty sure I just messed up my carb.Anyhow thank you for a great video!!
You might not have screwed it up. There is a brass cap near the throat of the carb on the bottom near where it connects to the intake manifold. It should be round and protrudes from the body maybe a half inch or so. That is the pilot mixture screw ( they are capped off from the factory ), if the carb has never been cleaned, or properly cleaned, that factory plug could still be intact. If this is the plug you are talking about just gently drill through it, don't use much force. Once you get a hole all the way through it, use a coarse thread screw to remove the plug, after that, you should see a slotted screw head under it, remove that screw, along with the spring, washer and tiny o-ring. If you don't see the washer and o-ring, use the course thread screw and "screw" it back into the hole just a bit, it should grab the washer and o-ring and you can remove them and clean the port. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
I like your vid.... in your opinion, which model of 4 x 4 has the least amount of repairs or lowest cost for repairs, assuming proper owner maintenance... thanx
That's a tough one, it really depends on the year, in the past I would have said Honda, nowadays? I would have to say Kawasaki. Yamaha's were great in the late 80's and 90's, they were TANKS. Sadly, I feel the newer these things are, the more fragile they are, and more expensive to fix.
Very good video. 03 660 grizzly keeps backfiring, only runs on choke, off choke it will idle somewhat but won’t let me give it throttle without backfiring and dying. New jug, new piston, valves in spec, new timing chain, valves lapped, at first had the camshaft 180 off😂 but still ran good. Same issues as above. It’s driving me nuts. Put the carb back in sonic cleaner and will try again. Thinking my float height maybe off too. But about to address it tomorrow.
That sounds like a classic clogged pilot (low speed) jet, it has a tiny hole and many think it doesn't actually have one, trust me, it does and it must have for it to start and idle correctly.
I realize this atv is long gone and out of the shop, but maybe you could do a video of a atv that comes into the shop for services and doing a before and after would be a nice touch. Keep up the good work
Thank you for your excellent video. I have a 2004 Grizzly that stopped running with its original carb. The bike will run with a new AM carb, albeit with poor throttle response. I have rebuilt the oem Mikuni carb with an oem Mikuni kit and can’t get the bike to run. It seems like the Venturi slide isn’t opening. Any help you can provide?
Thanks for watching! Now, your slide is operated by engine vacuum but is in a "ported" configuration. What does that mean you ask? I'll explain, ported vacuum sources on engines are ones that supply MORE vacuum under acceleration rather than most of the other sources that will basically fall to zero when the butterfly opens. This is achieved on your engine by 2 small holes on the bottom (needle side) of the slide itself, as the butterfly opens, the engine attempts to pull an increasing volume of air into it, as this happens, high speed air rushes past those 2 little holes, drawing out the air above the slide diaphragm and creating an area of low pressure, this lifts the slide and the needle allowing the engine to get both more air and fuel. This system is very efficient and works flawlessly as long as, 1. The diaphragm is intact, it should be soft and flexible with no cracks or tears. 2. The slide is not physically hanging up in the bore of the carb, you should be able to push up the slide and it will return freely all the way to the bottom. 3. There are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the engine, this is usually a cracked or delaminated intake manifold (common on Yamaha) or a bad O-ring behind the manifold $. Lastly, if your engine will not start at all or is very difficult to start even under full choke and/or has a tendency to "run away" or rev very high by itself and then spit and sputter and die or idle very rough, many times with a noticeable back fire, you may have a tight intake valve that is not closing all the way or is closing late due to tight clearance. Check your valve clearances, Intake should be .004 and exhaust should be .006. Check those things and let me know what you find. We'll get your machine running again!
What about the main nozzle in the carb bore? It seems to be able to be replaced in either direction. One side is a square cut, and the other is cupped. The needle goes into the part I am referring to. Am I correct in the assumption that the cupped/parabolic relieved side goes into the bore?
@@albertferrara4139 The rounded end goes towards the emulsifier tube (main jet holder) facing down, the cupped part does go into the bore, otherwise facing up.
Lol i just went thru this pulled the carb like 10 times until i relized this and its almost press fit so you dont even think it should go in you have to have it right inline and pretty much press it in @JWSRepairServiceLLC
So for using the drain screw to drain the carb, is that for simply removing fuel so it doesnt ait for long periods of time? Or do we need to do that every time we stop riding for the night?
It is for draining when you will not be running it for sometime. With the "quality" of today's fuel, we suggest draining if you will not be running it for 3 or more weeks. thanks for watching!
I'm assuming your machine is the 125 version. The 2 fuel lines both go to the tank, 1 is for On and the other one is reserve. If the tank has been replaced with an aftermarket plastic tank, you will only need one line as the petcock will be located on the tank itself, rather than the carburetor where it is now. If you do have a plastic tank with only one hose you will need to cap one side at the carburetor itself. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and good luck!
Let’s not forget chassis !…look for rust at welds especially at control arm brackets, engine mounts, carrier mounts even if it’s fairly new ..look to see if someone shot paint on chassis and there’s overspray on things that shouldn’t have It could be hiding chassis rust..
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC ..I’ve learned the hard way on my ‘17 rancher and had to fab up and weld in new lower rear control arm brackets and the lower front diff brackets…it was barely hanging on …had to cut off all the mount bolt heads too just to remove diff and lower arm…buyer beware !👍🏼
Have a question I’m struggling with adjusting the valves on my 2002 Polaris sportsman 500 HO. When I bring the cam to the highest point I have zero room to where the rocker arms rest on the valve spring. It’s the correct cam, correct valves, correct springs but I have zero room for a .006 feeler gauge. What am I doing wrong?
I'm a bit confused about what you mean by bringing the cam to the highest point. You should align the T mark on the flywheel with the pointer in the mag cover, this is TDC ( top dead center ) then align your cam marks with the pointer cast into the head. This will position the cam lobes at their lowest point and allow the valve lash ( clearance ) to be adjusted. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC yep thank you, I had the valve head off the motor and was confusing myself. The moment I put it together and put to top dead center everything worked as expected. My own fault trying to adjust off the engine
I have watched this video and the top end rebuild. Very good stuff. I have coolant mixing with the oil and leaning towards it being head gasket related. If these water pump seals fail would that make coolant mix in the oil?
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC I also watched you top end rebuild and had a question. I have purchased 2 top end cylinder kits and both the hole for the water port tube is too big. The water port (from the stock cylinder you remove) just falls in with 1/8” or more all the way around. Have you had any issues with that? 2013 ranger 500
@@bradleygarst9119 Strange, I have not had that issue. I only use Niche cylinders and make sure that the application is 100% correct, they all may look similar, but there can be slight differences from year to year and model to model.
