I did this 4 years ago and I came back to you video to ask you how to update the firmware? Do I need to repeat the process? My biggest concern right now is my dial is no longer very responsive and kinda just does what it wants
did you leave your printer sitting unused for a long time by chance? I stopped printing anything for almost 2 years and the dial on a couple of my printers got corroded or something, so I had to turn the dial back and forth a lot to get them to start working normally again. something like Deoxit probably wouldn't be a bad idea if so. potentiometers tend to corrode over time in guitars, 3D printers and anything else. But, if you want to flash the firmware again, you should be able to connect your printer to your computer via USB cable directly and flash it straight from the Arduino IDE. Since you burned a bootloader to the board, that should be all you have to do. I haven't modded printers in a long time so I don't remember all of the steps, but it should be mostly the same as this video, minus the need to use an Arduino Uno.
I installed the provided FW where that he proved an it installed fine. However, something weird happed to the Z axis and I can't seem to fix it. No matter which direction turn the dial on the control box, the axis only goes in one direction, down and makes a horrible rough STEP motor sound. The Z wont go back up. I have to disengage the motors and manually back the Z axis up. Any suggestions?
I'm gonna be honest with you, I haven't done much with writing firmware on 3D printers in several years now, so newer versions of Marlin may be different, but the old version had a setting in the Configuration.h file called Z_SAFE_HOMING, and it had Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT and Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT. if you turned on Z_SAFE_HOMING by removing the // from the start of that line, it would set the homing point to the middle of the bed.
Hey! I am using a sony nex-5t and when I test to see if gphoto2 can capture the image, it gives me and error saying that my camera does not support generic capture. Any idea on how to fix this?
that may be a limitation of gphoto2. I remember reading it only supported specific cameras when I set this up, which isn't great. There may be other options for ways to setup timelapses. I know this video is kind of old by now. sorry I don't have that camera so I wouldn't be able to test. you might be able to find other examples in octoprint that don't use gphoto2 by this point, so you may want to search around some more.
yeah, this video is pretty old. I haven't updated my firmware in at least 6 years so it's possible that option doesn't exist anymore. if I ever get around to updating my firmware, I might look into making a new video.
this video is kind of old, so the newer versions of the Marlin firmware may not work exactly the same way. but assuming you have the version of firmware that has these settings, and assuming you have an auto bed leveling sensor, it should work. the type of extruder shouldn't really matter.
Great tutorial! With a Sony A6400 I had some issues where gphoto2 couldn't save to SD, so I'm using gphoto2 --auto-detect --capture-image-and-download --filename="/home/pi/timelapse/photo-%Y-%m-%d-%H-%M-%S.%C". Also I had an issue where triggering the command directly from Octoprint wouldn't save the file, so I made a flask web server to run the command and then my custom gcode simply runs curl localhost:3000. Bit more complicated setup but it works perfectly.
you could try something like the following: G60 S01 ; This stores the current location of the hot end to memory M220 S200 ; set speed to 200% G0 X200 Y180 ; This moves the hot end to X200 and Y180 M220 S100 ; set speedn to 100% M400 ; wait for previous commands to finish before continuing G4 P0500 ; This pauses the hotend for half a second OCTO1 ; This tells Octoprint to send a command to gphoto2 to take a picture G61 S01 ; This moves the hot end back to the location that was stored in memory. there might be a better way, but that's worth playing around with.
Why would you edit the full calibration, you cut the part I wanted to know about. Does the paper need to be pinned down (cannot move) or just touching? Does after it’s pinned down RDO you raise it .5 or .1 ?
It was common practice in the United States through the early 1900s to use lead pipes for interior plumbing. Since the 1930s, copper pipe has been used for residential plumbing. Until 1986, however, lead-based solder was used widely to join copper pipes. Lead-free solder and lead-free materials are now required by federal law for use in new household plumbing and for plumbing repairs. the amount of lead in a brass nozzle shouldnt be of any concern you breath in worse stuff just walking down the street
I'm sat here watching this great video with my newly delivered, 1st time ever, 3D printer. Plenty o assembly for me later. Loved that kitchen roll holder.
bruh... if you're referring to the video description, that's a problem with the visible spacing on youtube. if you copy it from the description and paste it somewhere like notepad++, you'll see it is gphoto2 (space) --auto-detect if you're referring to the way I said it in the video, apologies. I'm not a terribly eloquent speaker.
@@israelCommitsGenocide Nah, some people were calling for peoples kids to get taken away of they stepped inside a shop without a vaccine. Don't forget how crazy people went.
