This is such a great tutorial, all details covered! The effort put into this really works out. Looking forward to apply this to my printer, just using an arduino pro mini instead of an uno since it is 10x cheaper!
Thanks! it was a good bit of work putting it together, but I'm happy to hear it's helping some people out. And yeah, go with the cheapest stuff you can find. this is just the stuff that I used.
If this isn't working it's highly likely your proximity sensor is not rated for 5V. I picked up a 6V-36V sensor by mistake and it doesn't work correctly due to the fact that the sensor physically needs the minimum 6V to function correctly. The light on the sensor would barely glow when running on 5V and always outputs 5V. This is why the printer would crash into the bed, because there's never a drop to 0V on the output.
Thank you sir. Somebody on the Facebook group asked the same thing. I found this Instructable that claims to work for the i3 Plus. I don't own one so I can't test, but it may be worth looking into: www.instructables.com/id/Wanhao-Duplicator-I3-Plus-Auto-Bed-Leveling/
Derek Ward I wouldn't regret getting the plus st all. I have both a V2 and the plus (cocoon create touch). Out of the box, the plus has a much better print quality and consistency. With the latest cura however, some options and geometry printed with the same gcode on both machines are done differently on the print bed. For example, the V2 will stutter or stipple printing some of the circular prints, where as the plus interprets the circular motion properly and lays smooth filament. The result is wildly different and it physically interprets what to do with the gcode differently. I can only put this down to firmware. I think the marlin on the plus does a much better print than the repetier on the v2. Especially with the new cura software
Hey I did this mod awhile back ago and I love it just saved me so much time and effort. But I’m running into a problem now I keep getting a corner that doesn’t seem to stick causing my whole print to fail Just one corner
hmm. that's odd. Have you tried printing something like this? www.thingiverse.com/thing:3183346 I would print one layer of something like that and look close at the printed layer to compare and see if the filament lines are smashed flat equally across the whole bed. The layer should be roughly as tall as a piece of paper. Depending on what you're using as a printing surface on top of your aluminum bed, is it possible that surface is uneven? The sensor is only going to sense the aluminum, so your nozzle is going to follow the curve of the aluminum, not what's on top of it. The Auto Bed leveling routine in Marlin isn't perfect by any means so it probably won't be 100% the same width everywhere, but it should still be flat enough in most places on the bed to hold down the print. If it is at least partially flat (not just a squiggle of filament in that corner) I would try putting some glue stick at least in that corner to see if it helps. Or, if you're positive there is no physical issue, you can try doing a reset on the Marlin firmware by sending M502 and M500 back to back from your computer. That should load up the default Marlin settings and store them. Anyway, good luck!
Remain Indoors I ran the print And the entire LHS of my printer is not coming out at all (nozzle to close to the bed) the RHS is pretty lines look pretty adhere. What could cause this? I ran this printer multiple times with this mod and never had a problem until now :(
@@cesarrenteria838 it could be a wire or the sensor going bad. In theory, if the hotend cables stretch to one side of the bed and the sensor has a harder time reading when it reaches the bed, then the auto bed leveling calculations will be wrong when it tries to print. Prusa has some functionality built into their printer's firmware to correct for an issue similar to this - I think due to inconsistencies in the bed manufacturing process, but the Monoprice Maker Select board can't fit that kind of functionality on it, and that isn't a standard part of Marlin that I'm aware of. Are you running the Auto Bed Leveling routine at the start of every print? (using G28 and G29) - if not, that could be a problem. Otherwise, you may want to Google around for ideas, I'm not sure what else would be causing it.
Thanks for all the very detailed videos on the Maker Select V2. Can you please tell me what version of Arduino did you use to compile the Marlin Firmware?
Great video and very helpful...I am having one small issue in when I go to do auto home the z axis just continues to go down. I have checked all the wiring and everything is correct. I show some others have had similar issues just wondering if you ever figured out what is causing this
Remain Indoors, I am having the same Issue as Doug Johnston. I tried switching from digital 10 to 11 and the nozzle just keeps heading toward the bed. The sensor light is turning on when I put the plyers under it... Any other ideas??
Hey. I followed this tutorial years ago and its been working great. It's been about a year since I last used my printer. When I go to print now, the z-probing is not working anymore in the (9) spots. Instead of down->up->down->up at each spot, some of the spots are randomly doing down->up->up. This messes up the distance between nozzle and bed. Any idea why this randomly does this in spots? Different every time you try to print. Thanks!
hmm. sounds like maybe a short in a connection somewhere? I'm not sure. I haven't printed with that printer in a few years, but last time I did a few years after this video, it was still working fine.
@@RemainIndoors Would having a magnetic flexible print bed cause the sensor to freak out as described? Would you suggest reflashing the firmware to the printer?
@@RemainIndoors Would this installation work the same if using a BLTouch sensor? If not, do you have a step-by-step on how to convert from an inductive sensor to the BLTouch sensor?
@@davemantey2653 hmm. for this printer specifically, the motherboard isn't directly compatible with the BLTouch. I wanted to install one when I was still modding this printer, but the ways to do that are pretty hacky and seemed unreliable at best. it's probably easier and not really that expensive to just buy a different motherboard that works with it. but that's a whole different can of worms really since you'd have to make a mount for the new motherboard that fits in this case, and possibly replace the LCD screen since the existing one may or may not be compatible with a different motherboard. in my opinion, the inductive sensor was the better choice, because it was the least amount of effort for not that much money, but installing a BLTouch on this printer is pretty risky at best.
Sorry I don’t see the Marlin update. I purchased a new in the box never assembled Maker Select Plus 3D Printer think it a bout three years old and the Cura SW mentioned in the manual is no longer available. Can I use the Marlin, newbie here. Thanks
I think you would have to follow a guide like this one: iotrant.com/2019/06/03/customizing-the-monoprice-maker-select-plus-custom-firmware/ The firmware in this video isn't setup for the touchscreen on your printer.
not sure what other mods you've done to your printer, but if you still have the original cable chain setup that goes from your hotend over to the X-end and down to the base of the printer, you should be able to route it along with those cables. you may have to cut the original cable chain off if you're wanting to replace it, but you can always either print another one or use something like Spiral cable wrap which is pretty cheap and some zip ties for holding wires together.
Every time I try to verify Marlin it says there was an error with the Sanguine Board. I have the same Arduino software version and using the links in your description. Any advice or could you walk me through it? I used your other video to upload a boot loader and the new repetier in your description of that video but now want to do auto level.
What's the exact error you're getting? it's been a few years since I made this video, so I've uninstalled and reinstalled the Arduino IDE (version 1.8.3) a few times since then. I just downloaded the firmware from this video description, selected the Sanguino Board and the Processor as ATMega1284 16Mhz, and clicked the Verify (checkmark) button, and it compiled successfully. Offhand, my guess would be it's either a different version of the Sanguino board installation or a different version of the U8glib library.
Actually, yeah, you may want to remove the Sanguino board you installed first and install version 1.0.2 from this page: github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/releases That's the one I have installed on my machine. it looks like they released a newer version that may not be compatible. Let me know if that works for you and I'll update the video description.
@@crashmaster6814 Alright, so I just re-installed it and here's what I did to make it work: I went to my Arduino - hardware folder and deleted the existing Sanguino folder. Then I made a new folder and named it Sanguino. After that, I went to this page github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/releases/tag/1.0.2 and downloaded the Source Code zip file. I opened that zip file and copied all of the files to the new Sanguino folder. Then I closed and reopened the Arduino IDE, I went to Tools - Boards - Boards Manager. I got a few errors about Could not find boards.txt, but that's fine, because it still added Sanguino to my Boards menu. Then I selected the Sanguino board, and selected the right processor, and when I clicked verify, it successfully compiled. Hopefully that should work for you. Let me know if it doesn't and I'll try reinstalling everything from scratch to see if I can figure it out...
Thank you for your great videos! I have succesfully burnt the bootloader, but the firmware cannot be uploaded... The error message is the following: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory. How can I fix it?
I don't remember if I covered it in my Firmware and bootloader video, but this is from the video description: You will need to install the u8glib.h library in your Arduino IDE if you haven't done that in the past: code.google.com/archive/p/u8g... Download the above zip file, in the Arduino IDE go to Sketch - Include Library - Add .ZIP library and choose the zip file you just downloaded.
Ever heard of the EZABL system created for the purpose of doing exactly this? that was a ridiculously overpriced auto bed leveling system that a guy made and started selling to people because they didn't want to learn the specifics of circuits and firmware modifications. This is basically a cheaper alternative that you can do yourself without having to pay some middle man for what amounts to a more useless board that only serves one purpose. Yes there are better ways of accomplishing an auto bed leveling system. This isn't a video saying "Hey do it this way!" it's saying you can do it this way if you want, and here's how.
Great video, used your other one to burn the bootloader. I'm trying to upload the linked firmware, however I'm getting 'exit status 1 'msg' was not declared in this scope'. Anything you could suggest?
Thanks, sorry this video is kind of old. you may want to try installing the 1.8.3 version of the Arduino IDE - I believe some people have had problems with newer versions. If you do that, you may need to uninstall the current version and delete any existing arduino folders from your Program Files folder(s). Also, I believe you would have to install the u8glib and Sanguino library/boards again. Or if you look through some of the other comments on this video, somebody may have suggested another solution without having to roll back the Arduino IDE version.
I am having under extruding issues since flashing this marlin firmware. How certain are we that the linked firmware does not need any further configuration and will run a 2.1 Maker Select as is?
you may want to check your Extruder steps per mm. you don't have to change the firmware for that. Mine seems to work fine with this firmware and the original extruder gear that came on my printer, but I bought mine about a year ago and there's no guarantee there haven't been changes made to the design between when I got mine and you got yours.
I'm confused, maybe someone can help me out. I'm not sure how this actually levels the bed, as the bed doesn't move during the G29 command. Since you zero it off of the center of the bed, how does it level at the corners?
The G29 command cause the autoleveler of your choice to go torwards the print bed in 9 different places. It then will adjust your gcode based on the values that it recieves from the leveling process. Say it sensed that your bottom left corner is 1mm lower than center, then as the extruder nozzle travels torwards your left corner your z axis will lower that 1mm. Its not that the code physically levels the bed, it that it adjusts your gcode to account for the variance in the bed. In theory you code use this code and print with your bed at, lets say, a 20 degree angle. While not recommended you could in theory do it.
it doesn't tilt the z axis. it just raises and lowers the whole z axis as it moves across the bed. so your z axis lead screws are constantly turning to make sure the hot end stays a specific distance from all points on the bed.
@@RemainIndoors Sorry, I wasn't specific enough. I meant the virtual z axis, as in if it tilts the model to be printed or it skews it due to the difference in height. And thanks for the quick response 😁
@@coolbionicle ahh no worries. Yeah, there are a couple different options in Marlin, one option uses a feature called ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT that over the course of a certain height slowly corrects the skewing. The older versions of marlin aren't the best at this as if your bed is slightly out of alignment with the z axis, you can end up with some weird layer lines near the bottom of your print, but as long as it's reasonably well aligned, it's usually not a problem. I think if that setting is turned off, it just keeps correcting for the shape of the bed throughout the entire print, which could possibly make it slightly skewed. The firmware that's in the description of this video has ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT turned on in the Configuration.h file, but it's pretty easy to turn off.
@@RemainIndoors Oh man, thanks for the reply! At least I know it covers all bases then. I bought this printer a couple of days ago so I'll be keeping this video in my favorites for when the time comes. It looks like a pretty solid mod so I'm eager to test it out. Thanks! 😁
I was able to get everything loaded and working. Except for the SD card. I checked the configuration H file and it appears you have it activated, correct? if so any other ideas on what to try?
yeah, the SD card is enabled in the marlin firmware attached to this video. you may want to try uncommenting one of the SPI Speed settings below that in configuration.h - but it should be working without that.
@@RemainIndoors remain indoors after loading marlin to my board, I can no longer connect using the usb port to my computer..any ideas? it was working with the stock software.
Has anyone else printed the mount and it doesn't fit? Mine seems to be hitting the nozzle cooler shroud. I've got a MP Makerselect V2.1 if that matters.
I am a noob to arduino. I purchased everything you recommended and the power supply came in non functional. I know I can power the uno from a usb on my laptop so can I power it with the sensor hooked up via usb still or do I have to get a power supply? Can anyone recommend one that do work if I have to use it. Thanks and great job on all the tutorials I have learned so much.
You may be able to get away with powering it through USB. you can test by hooking up the power from the sensor to the 5v and ground pins on the arduino then plugging in the USB and testing your sensor on the bed. it should trigger every time reliably about 4mm above the bed. Sorry to hear the power adapter didn't work. that's the one Amazon recommended for the Uno. I'll look to see if there are any better options out there.
www.amazon.com/Adapter-Arduino-Tbuymax-Listed-Positive/dp/B06Y1LF8T5 This one has 4.5 stars and claims to work with the Uno. I'll change the one in the video description as well. Thanks for letting me know.
I don't know much about the monoprice mini offhand, but assuming you can find a version of Marlin firmware to work with that printer, then it's a pretty good chance the firmware can be modified to work with Auto Bed Leveling like this
This sensor specifically won't work with glass. capacitive sensors will sense glass, and you can most likely find one the same size and settings. you just have to dial it in to trigger at the right times as most capactive sensors have an adjustment screw to fine tune the sensitivity.
@@LankyFrank something like this should work, but I can't guarantee it. It's supposed to take 6v-36v but the Arduino only outputs 5v max, so it may not have enough voltage unless you go by the Voltage Divider method (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t3nzSxEpCrU.html): www.ebay.com/itm/Capacitive-Proximity-Sensor-Switch-LJC12A3-5-Z-BX-NPN-NO-DC6-36V-5mm-Distance/332629350705
So I see 3 people here having an issue with the z axis just going down and not being triggered by an object...Make that 4. I have triple checked the wiring, checked the code in Arduino, etc... Has anyone resolved this yet?
As long as the Clone arduino provides the same voltages and works the same as a regular arduino uno, it "should" work. but I can't guarantee it. One person was having problems and had to return their Uno, but it turned out it wasn't the same one as mine. If you're comfortable with soldering, I'm working on editing a followup video to this one right now that shows how to do this without the Uno. you would still need a way to burn a bootloader to the board if you haven't already, so pretty much any Arduino should work in that case, but the new video will show how to hook up the sensor straight to your melzi board using a few resistors.
should i wait for the new video then i ordered a Arduino UNO R3MEGA328P ATMEGA16U2 Compat ? btw what did you use instead of the springs on the bed thanks for the reply
you may want to wait for the new video before you get started. I should hopefully have it uploaded in the next few days, but assuming you already have a soldering iron and a multimeter, the only extra parts you need are a couple wires and two resistors (a pack of a couple hundred resistors is less than 10 bucks on amazon) everything else is just referring back to this video.
Yes, everything's the same in both. the only difference is instead of connecting the Arduino in between the sensor and your printer's Endstop, the new method involves connecting the sensor straight to your printer. it's a little harder, but less likely to fail for inconsistency in parts.
I am getting this error when trying to update to the marlin FW: C:\Users\derek\Desktop\UnoSketchAndFirmware\MakerSelect Marlin 1.1.3\Marlin\Marlin.ino:45:110: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory #include // library for graphics LCD by Oli Kraus (github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino) ^ compilation terminated. exit status 1 Error compiling for board Sanguino.
you'll have to install the u8glib.h library in your Arduino IDE. code.google.com/archive/p/u8glib/downloads - download that zip file to somewhere on your machine, then open the Firmware and go to Sketch - Include Library - Add .Zip library and choose that zip file.
My brain hurts. I have everything working but its just slightly too high creating a gappy rough first layer. I tried moving the Z offset a few more ticks but it doesn't change anything.
This has been asked a few times in the comments, copying and pasting my previous answer: I found this Instructable that claims to work for the i3 Plus. I don't own one so I can't test, but it may be worth looking into: www.instructables.com/id/Wanhao-Duplicator-I3-Plus-Auto-Bed-Leveling/
So after flashing the board with the marlin software and I put everything back together I have a blank screen on the maker select. Any suggestions on how to fix that?
First thing I would do is open the box back up and make sure the LCD cable is plugged into the board and plugged all the way into the LCD screen - Also make sure the cable isn't plugged in backwards. if everything is plugged in correctly, I would likely try flashing the firmware again to make sure something didn't go wrong on the first try. if that doesn't work I would try flashing the Repetier firmware to make sure that works. If neither of those work, I would assume it's something hardware related. But, after that I would probably just open the box up and exhaustively try to rule out what the problem isn't until I find the issue. That's not a common problem people complain about on these videos, but if the LCD cable was left unplugged or plugged in backwards, that's a guaranteed culprit. Also, you may want to make sure the LCD screen works before you close the box back up so you don't have to keep taking it apart. HOWEVER, I would be very careful with that, and keep my hands away from the power supply if I'm turning it on while it's open.
First I wanted to thank you for the great videos! I was hoping for some help though. I finally got around to doing this upgrade. I followed the instruction and am at the point where its time to test the sensor. It lights up with my pliers however when I auto home z axes only travel up about 10 mm. So I switched the wires to the uno for 2 and 3 and it does the same thing. I have tried 3 uno's now and I'm getting the same problem. So I'm guessing the auto bed leveling software but that looks so simple I cant see how that would be the issue. If you have an ideas please let me know. Thanks again for all the videos!
hmm. so, the uno board should be passing through the signal of the endstop wires. it's been so long since I've looked at this, I don't remember if it's normally closed or normally open, but I do remember there was some issue with the sensors I originally recommended as only some of them had enough voltage to trigger the uno correctly. if you have a voltmeter, you could test to see if putting your pliers under the sensor changes the voltage between 2 and 3. I made another video after this one about using a voltage divider method where I talked about some of that, but again it's been at least 3 years. You could try changing the firmware to invert the endstop direction which would solve the problem of the hot end always going up, but then when you trigger the sensor it might not stop moving and you'd have to shut off your printer before it crashes into the bed. Sorry to hear it's not working for you, but those would be the first things I would try. my guess would be the sensor, but I'm not sure.
@@RemainIndoors Thank you for the fast response. I looked up my purchased history and noticed My sensor is actually a 5v not a 6 vote like you suggested. I test 2 and 3 and there is no voltage on them with the light comes on or when its off. I am going to follow your next video and but the same sensor you recommended and let you know what happens. Thanks again for your help!
This is so inspiring. I should do that too. I see another arduino used for simple multiplexing, I think it is possible to replace arduino with simple logic chip or even just a transistor plus few resistors. Or course you can get arduino nano these days for just a few dollars so that probably does not even matter. On the other hand transistor multiplexing can be working off 12V and be hidden away inside the power unit.
When switching to the Marlin FW, do I need to make any setting changes in S3D to reflect the use of a different firmware? What about settings on the printer itself or is it pretty much Plug and Play? I also have upgraded my extruder to the Flexion HT? Anything I need to do differently?
the slicer settings are the same, Marlin Firmware for the most part reads gcode the same as Repetier does. if you have a different Thermistor in your hotend, you'll want to look online to see which Thermistor value they suggest you use for Marlin to match your thermistor specifically. In the Configuration.h file where it says #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 you may need to change that 1 to a different value. Also, if the sensor is in a different location compared to the tip of the nozzle, you may need to change the Configuration.h file to match that as well, which it explains how to do at the end of this video. -- Otherwise, yeah it should just be plug and play
Any chance you can update the link to the sensor? Amazon shows it as no longer available. Also, there are 5v sensors on there now, any reason you wouldn't just use those and save yourself the stepping issue?
Shoot. Thanks for pointing that out. I updated the link in the description to a 5v sensor that "should" work. I haven't tested it to verify. Also, The sensing distance claims to be 4mm but there is a review on the amazon page that says they used it for their Monoprice Maker Select and it only got 2mm, which worked for them, but it is a very short detection distance. Also, I vaguely remember around the time I put this video out somebody else commented saying they tried a 5v sensor and it had the same problem as the 6v, - some work on 5v and some don't. If you do try it or another one though, please leave a comment so other people will know if it worked.
@@joboyogi The one I linked claims to be the same diameter as the one I used in the video. (12mm) I measured the one that's on my printer currently and that's how wide the sensor shaft is. unless you're using a different mount I guess?
Thanks Mike! The stock bed will work fine for this method, but if your original printing surface is worn out, you may want to look into BuildTak or PEI to cover the aluminum if you don't want to use masking tape (masking tape is awful but PLA sticks to it)
it shows in the video. Marlin has a feature called "Z safe homing" that homes X then homes Y then moves to the middle of the bed so the sensor has a place to test
Amazing instructions. Thanks a million, very greatful. Learned a lot as a brand new newbie from this exercise. I used a different mount other than what was suggested, thus I had to make mods to the configuration.h. I followed the instructions for measuring the sensor to the nozzle... Never updated or changed a firmware of any kind prior... Do I need reconnect the arduino to upload the firmware after making changes to the configuration.h file? Or, do I simply connect a usb cable to the melzi board and upload the new changes?
yeah, after you've burned a bootloader you don't have to take apart your printer to update the firmware again. just plug in a USB cable and the Arduino IDE should let you overwrite the last firmware any time you need to update
I got all the parts I needed, and successfully uploaded the bootloader to the melzi board. However, when I flash the marlin firmware to the board, everything seems to work ok (i also had to flip the direction of my Y-axis) except that the right half of the LCD screen displays everything somewhat jumbled. The left half is pretty much fine, but the closer to the right edge of the screen, the less the pixels are correct. I checked and all my connections for the LCD are correct, and to double-check i flashed the Repetier firmware from the link in your other video - that firmware has the LCD working perfectly, no text jumbles or anything. This tells me that there's something about this configuration of Marlin that's not working properly with my LCD. I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2.1. I have tried downloading and adding various versions of the u8glib library in arduino and compiling->uploading with each version gives the same problem. Any idea what could be the problem or if there is a fix? I'm hoping perhaps there's a simple change to some part of the marlin firware in Arduino IDE... BTW, Thanks again for the very helpful videos. If I can't get Marlin working, I've already learned a lot and at least have the better version of the Repetier firmware to enjoy.
That's strange. I found a possible solution on the Marlin forums. would you mind testing this version if you get a chance? www.dropbox.com/s/zb4eqabzpthhmr4/MakerSelect%20Marlin%201.1.3%20v2.zip?dl=0 Also, thanks for pointing out the Y axis was reversed for you too. I probably have my stepper driver plugged in backwards or something. - I fixed it in this version.
to expand on what's different, the firmware tells the board how to communicate with the LCD and since that communication can happen too fast for some LCD screens, or there can be interference nearby that can muddle up the signal, there are settings in Marlin to limit the communication speed to a point where it can decode correctly. - Drawbacks, if you set the delay too high, you can have a very slow performing LCD. If you set it too low, possibly garbage on the screen. if that doesn't fix it but seems to help a little, the delay can be increased a little more, but I'll have to test to confirm it works on my printer.
Thanks for the super fast response. I tried flashing the updates version but still having the same glitches with the LCD display. for reference you can see a few images of the screen glitch, and one of the properly working screen with repetier, here: www.dropbox.com/sh/ir4rhsnx8ceqv1q/AABbv695sD5heQtv0UmRATava?dl=0 The Y direction was correct in this one. I know nothing about screens or coding firmware, but if I had to guess it kind of seems like it is set for wrong model or type of LCD.
Sorry had only seen your first reply. I didn't notice any less glitch on the screen with the updated version, seems to be pretty much the same, if not very slightly worse. All the info about the delay settings makes sense, though. Is that something i can test by changed values in one of the tabs of the marlin firmware file in arduino IDE?
yeah, I may have set the values in the wrong place in that version since they were getting overwritten downstream in the code. I'm testing a new version that's setup correctly for those values. the original firmware was somebody else's modification to make it work with the Maker Select, and I didn't notice they had removed some functionality related to those settings. Let me make sure this works on my printer first and I'll upload this version and let you know where the variables are to test with.
Sorry to bother you again.... new FW has been uploaded, however when I home all axis, the bed is moving forward rather than backwards so it is not hitting the back stopswitch. Where do I make the change to flip the bed direction for homing?
Open the Configuration.h file in the firmware, search for this line: #define INVERT_Y_DIR ... if it's true on the end, change it to false.. or vice versa
it's not really impossible, but I haven't done it. Here's a video of somebody doing something similar with a CR-10 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ioL-7oEBI1Q.html the CR-10 and the Maker Select both have a Melzi board, although they look different they're both limited to a certain number of usable pins. the sensor used in this video has 3 wires, a power wire and ground wire to power the sensor, and a signal wire to let the board know when it senses something. The BLTouch on the other hand has 5 wires, a power wire and ground wire to power the BLTouch, a signal and another ground to make a circuit with the board to let it know when the pin senses something, and the last wire is a signal to let the BLTouch know when to deploy/stow the pin. There aren't any open pins on the Maker Select board, and since the Melzi board isn't talking to the Arduino at all, the arduino wouldn't know when to tell the BLTouch to do it's stuff.
I understand the extra wires. Would I wire the extras to the UNO or to the Melzi board? Does the sketch on the UNO need anything extra to work with the BLTouch?
all of the wires would need to go to the melzi board, and the firmware would have to be changed to control them accordingly. but it might be easier to just replace the mainboard all together. However, if you want to keep the original board, you may be able to use the beeper pin from the lcd as the BLTouch control pin, then you could use 5v and ground from anywhere on the board that supplies power consistently, and the remaining two wires would just replace the wires on the Z endstop. Like I said, I've never tried it. this is just theoretical and based on my understanding of how Arduino works.
