How to Burn a Bootloader and firmware to your Maker Select v2

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In this video I explain how to Burn a bootloader to your Maker Select v2 main board and flash firmware to it.
*Note: You may need to download an older version of the Arduino IDE as a lot people seem to have problems getting the latest version to work with this firmware. I was using 1.8.3 in the video, but another commenter said they got it to work with 1.6.9*
Arduino Website:
www.arduino.cc...
Sanguino Board Github:
github.com/Lau...
You will need to install the u8glib.h library in your Arduino IDE if you haven't done that in the past:
code.google.co...
Download the above zip file, in the Arduino IDE go to Sketch - Include Library - Add .ZIP library and choose the zip file you just downloaded.
**Note: if you write this firmware to your printer and the temperatures of your hotend or bed are unusually high when they're turned off, you may want to try changing the EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE from 14 to 97 for your hotend or HEATED_BED_SENSOR_TYPE for your bed.
Repetier FIrmware: www.dropbox.co...
Configuration.h file on Github:
github.com/rep...
Arduino Uno:
www.amazon.com...
Jumper Wires:
www.amazon.com...

Опубликовано:

28 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 168

@secretnerd 3 года назад

Sometimes you just click on the wrong video... but I stayed for the sound track. Nice explanation. Thank youj

@nate5234 4 года назад

Clarification for anyone that happens upon this on what he means by not needing the Arduino in the future (because I was wondering this myself): In the future, you just need to connect the computer to the printer, and switch the jumper to the USB side, at which point you can proceed to flash the firmware. At this point, the bootloader has been burned, which is a one-time operation, so when you make configuration changes you just recompile and re-upload the firmware itself.

@MelLocklear 3 года назад

How did you do it, I believe the board gets its power from the Arduino?

@austinbrewer2680 6 лет назад

Loving the channel! Just stumbled into it today! Keep up the great work! Your videos are EXCELLENT!

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

Thank you =)

@puterpro2435 7 лет назад

1st Comment! WOOT! LOL THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for this video! I put an E3D clone on my MP MS v2.1 and had a problem with the thermistor, did hours of research to find there's a complete dearth of info on flashing the MP machines. Fortunately, another thermistor and a PID Tune fixed it, but I found it disturbing that Monoprice will not even acknowledge any questions about Firmware. I find it offensive that a company will try to create a closed system when they're basing the product on OPEN SOURCE! I dreaded having to piece together what was needed to Flash my MP, since I liked what I found about the Repetier firmware. I'm an Electronic & Computer tech, so flashing is not new to me, but I've not messed with the whole Arduino infrastructure. No matter how much you try, you can't swallow the ocean ... :-) So flashing my printer with visions of a BRICK were not good. Beside, I HATE when my Wife beats me, LOL. So Thanks! THIS I can do. Two other things - What's the orange fan holder on your E3D? I have a 40mm Rube Goldberg setup and all the ones I've found so far on Thingiverse are not quite right. Second - not to Fanboy gush, but you, my Friend, make awesome videos, and have that rare gene that so few have of being able to explain complex thoughts in layman's terms. Subscribed. Trust me, I'm active on the boards and you will be mentioned a lot, most impressed. {Small Bow}

@RemainIndoors 7 лет назад

lol well thanks for all of the positive feedback. Originally I had an orange version of this fan shroud www.thingiverse.com/thing:1996758 which is what shows up in the thumbnails, but since I installed a flexion extruder with the e3d v6 I had to design something to fit. so I made this www.thingiverse.com/thing:2423067 which doesn't have a fan mount designed yet. I have some ideas of how I want to incorporate a part cooling fan, but so far it's just an idea. Thanks again for the kind words. it's nice to know somebody appreciates the time I put into this.

@moulson13 4 года назад

Wow, this video is amazing! Just a note that if you want to use the zip that is provided you need to download an older version of ArduinoIDE or else you will get errors. I had no problem with Arduino 1.6.9

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

I got an email of your comment before you edited it. Glad to see you got it worked out. Thanks for the tip, I'll add a comment about that in the Video Description.

@rtaylor3690 7 лет назад

I burned up the Melzi board on my Maker Select v2. I got on Amazon and bought a new Melzi board and an Arduino Uno to fix it, and all is working well now. I added a MOSFET for the hot bed, and hopefully will have no more issues. I only had one issue while installing the Repetier firmware, which took me some time to figure out. I kept getting an error telling me I should be using a “Mega” Board. But switching to the Mega board would always cause the operation to time out. The work around is to tell the Arduino IDE that the 1284P chip on the Melzi board has more memory than a base 1284P chip (the Melzi board *is* modified to have more memory than a standard 1284P). To troubleshoot, I loaded the Simple Melzi Test located here, reprappro.com/documentation/huxley/maintenance/. It worked, so I knew I had a good connection to the board and was able to load the firmware to it. For me, it signaled that the board would not load the entire package, due to some limitation. To correct the error, I found the Arduino Windows folder in “Program Files (x86)”, and did a search for boards.txt. I found three files. Two of the three had (text) code that told the Arduino IDE that the board has less memory than it really does. I had to modify the code (a .txt file) to let the IDE know that the ATmega1284P (16 MHz) board was bigger than it thought. The files are relatively small so they were easy to search individually for “ATmega1284P 16MHz”. In one of the files, find these lines, and change the maximum file size to 253952: ## Sanguino W/ ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P 16MHz sanguino.menu.cpu.atmega1284p=ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz) sanguino.menu.cpu.atmega1284p.upload.maximum_size=130048 the last line will need to be changed to: sanguino.menu.cpu.atmega1284p.upload.maximum_size=253952 Likewise, in the other file, change the maximum file size to 253952: From: atmega1284p.name=Sanguino W/ ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16MHz) atmega1284p.upload.maximum_size=130048 atmega1284p.upload.maximum_data_size=16384 The second line to: atmega1284p.upload.maximum_size=253952 The third file will have no reference to the 1284P board. For me, that was the one thing that worked, but took me way too long to figure out. I hope that saves you all a bunch of time. God bless.

@cube1us 5 лет назад

BTW, the code you have in your zip file will not compiler under recent Arduino compilers. The workaround is: /* long stepperWait = 0; */ long __attribute__((used)) stepperWait = 0; The apparent issue is that stepperWait is used ONLY inside the inline assembler code, and confuses the compiler. JRJ

@BrandonReilly 4 года назад

Thank! I am just trying to figure out where to add this in the HAL.cpp file.

@cube1us 5 лет назад

I saw another video that suggests leaving the 5V power to the Maker Select board OFF, leaving the jumper in its normal place, and just using the normal printer power. To me, that makes more sense than disconnecting a bunch of stuff (aside from the LCD - though even that really ought not be necessary when doing an ICSP unless there isn't room for the connector.)

@_NFE 6 лет назад

Just wanted to say thanks. Your video gave me the courage to flash my Maker Select V2 instead of tolerating all the things in its firmware which disappointed me most especially the growing inaccuracy of temperatures past about 215 degrees. I also appreciate the custom version of firmware you provided. It appears that you did quite a bit of the setup work for us and it seems to print at least as well as the stock firmware did with no changes necessary. I personally had better thermistor temperature accuracy for very high temps using thermistor selection 1, and noticed that the generic temp table had 10k resistor set instead of 4.7k. Aside from that, I lowered the jerk and acceleration settings to my preference, changed the defaults for preheat temps to my preference, lowered the deadtime for extruder temp mgmt, and upped the max possible temp to 275 as I print a lot of nylon and sometimes like to crank it up on a critical layer during a print. I have yet to do any calibrations but whatever you had in there seems pretty well matched to a maker select. Again, I thank you. I dreaded doing this for a long time but you made it easy. Also, I'd like to add that the babysteps feature is awesome! I like it so much I will probably put off adding auto leveling indefinitely.

@CayDieu 6 лет назад

great vid, everything went as smoothly as your video. thanks.

@mattropolis9136 5 лет назад

So, I was able to follow your instructions successfully and am now running Marlin. The next time I want to go to the most recent version do I have to do the same thing again or is it a different process once a bootloader has been burned to the machine?

@regenerativelife991 6 лет назад

thanks a lot for this. We managed to upload new firmware. unfortunately the problem was with the capacitors from the endstop :) however we have new firmware and a way to repeat the process.

@regnad3411 6 лет назад

Great vids on the Maker Select, not many good ones out there, and you have a future in instructional videos! I thought I would add something to help any Arduino Mega boards out there. Pin sets are a little different on the Mega vs the Uno. To get this working simply do the following Wiring wise, pin 10 on Uno is equal to pin 53 on Mega pin 11 on Uno is equal to pin 51 on Mega pin 12 on Uno is equal to pin 50 on Mega pin 13 on Uno is equal to pin 52 on Mega Then in the Arduino sketch, be sure to modify the defines as well 10 = 53 11 = 51 12 = 50 13 = 52 Then your bootloader should burn fine with a Mega

@DirkaDirka07 5 лет назад

Curious if you actually tried this and if so, confirmed that it worked. I'm heading to the store tomorrow and the Mega2560 board is just a couple of dollars more so was thinking of getting that since I think it will be more useful in the long-run.... however if I'm going to cause myself headache then maybe I should stick with the Uno? Thanks and take care!

@DirkaDirka07 5 лет назад

It worked with the Mega! Will I need the Uno for anything or should I return it (It's still unopened in box).

@chrisworley8528 5 лет назад

Thank you man.. your knowledge is appreciated

@vetramiga1 3 года назад

had to use the 10uf capacitor trick across arduino reset pin written about on some forums/blogs to get this to work. constant errors and no bootloader burning otherwise.

@nikimarkieren7848 4 года назад

very Concise delivery which has made this job a great deal less daunting than it would be to someone like me who has never had to wire up Anything before now!....Thank you x 100 I'll look forward to find another ob like upgrade my Wanhao i3 in the form of a Belco printer which I picked up here in Australia for $100 or about 60$ US or 65 euros,and I like the look of your Z axis braces which i hope you have on Thingyverse and maybe youu would like to do a walkthrough with your updates on your MS v2? ,You would get alot of greatfull Wanhao owners I'm sure. thanks again for the great vid M8 Jc in auz

@DirkaDirka07 5 лет назад

Had this printer for a while but haven't been using it much. Want to get back into it so I did the HW upgrades and will be adding the bootloader tomorrow. Is the Repetier firmware you suggest still the best route or are there better options? Thanks again for the video; very helpful!

@AndrewMurphy8383 Год назад

wish you show how you setup up the firmware

@djslawek369 2 года назад

Hello! I have a question about the printer marked i3 v2.1 motherboard marked I3 V2.1 mother Melzi with Repetier Firmware 0.92.9 installed for Wanha Duplicator I3. Arduino Uno repeater installed, can I now use the Arduino ide program and the USB cable to set a new program to keep the belt maintained, do I have a profile step navigation and e.g. I will set the x or y axis posts 1 mm on in fact the trolley will go 0.6 mm and would like to make a step change. if it can be done and advise on how to do it

@xiaoshang6098 4 года назад

Thank you for the guide! This is exactly what I'm looking for. Just a quick question, in your customized firmware, is the thermal runaway protection enabled? Many thanks in advance!!!

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

if you're referring to the Repetier firmware linked in this video, yes - You can look in the Configuration.h fille for the setting MAX_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE. it's set to 290 currently, but you can change that to whatever you need.

@xiaoshang6098 4 года назад

Sounds great! Thanks for clarifying.

@fataxe1 6 лет назад

so, I'm trying to flash this and it wont flash. I get the isp onto my chinese aruino clone, but once i try to burn the boot loader it gives me an "invalid device signature, device signature = 0x00000" i've double checked all of the connections and i'm certain they are correct. Is the clone arduino the problem or is there something else?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

you may want to check out this arduino forum post forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=347441.15 I heard something a while back about Arduino rejecting certain clones of their products, but that they had stopped rejecting them and started supporting them... If that forum post doesn't help, you may want to try changing to Arduino IDE 1.8.3 and starting the process all over again. Also, make sure the Arduino clone your using matches the same board and processor that you're selecting in the Arduino IDE

@fataxe1 6 лет назад

I can get the IDE to upload to the clone, but when i try to burn the bootloader it gives me that error. I tried to add extra power through the power supply and that didnt give anything. I tried to plug and unplug the usb cable from the port on the printer and that didnt help. when did you plug in the usb for the printer? is there anything special that could alter? (i've tried the trial and error method with all the components and nothing wants to budge)

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

Try this: open the Arduino ISP sketch that you wrote to your arduino and look for a line that says this: //#define USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING if there are two slashes before that line, remove them #define USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING burn the Arduino ISP sketch to your Arduino again, then try burning the bootloader. To answer your question, I had the USB plugged into both the Arduino Uno and the Melzi board at the same time and they were both plugged into my computer. it shouldn't matter which one you plug in first. Also, try two different USB ports on your computer if that doesn't work. - the USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING is specifically for every other Arduino besides the Uno, so the Arduino ISP sketch may not be working correctly if that line is commented out (two slashes before the line) Also, I didn't plug a power cable into either board, only the USB cables.

@fataxe1 6 лет назад

I think I'm going to try another arduino and report back. I can get the printer to identify in cura and stuff. I tried to mess with the baud rate because the ISP said it was forcing the baudrate to 19200 and that didnt help either. (either with the 115200 or the 19200. didnt make a difference)

@varazir 5 лет назад

Hmm, I think I'm have to many questions. I managed to install the firmware ones, can't any longer. I get access denied

@t3chninja_official 3 года назад

Could I use an Arduino Nano board to do the same thing? It has the pinouts but you have to use an adapter to get the pins to attach to. I really need to update the Monoprice MSv2 at work as Octoprint reported it has the firmware that does not have thermal overheat protection. Thanks!

@RemainIndoors 3 года назад

Yeah, you should be able to do the same thing with a Nano. You'll probably want to upload the Arduino ISP sketch to your Nano before taking apart your printer just to make sure it works, but as long as you have all of the correct pins hooked up, it should work the same.

@t3chninja_official 9 месяцев назад

@@RemainIndoors Thanks to your video I was able to burn a bootloader to an Arduino Nano board then upload TH3D's marlin firmware for the Hanhao i3 and it's like magic. So much better than the OEM marlin firmware. Sadly this 3D printer needs some maintenance from the years of abuse from teachers and students. Belts are stretched, bearings are shot I think and the bed surface needs replaced. Now that I have tons more experience rebuilding 3D printers this is so easy to do now. Thanks again!

@RemainIndoors 9 месяцев назад

@@t3chninja_official wow, thanks for the kind words :) I am happy to hear my videos can help, especially if you can take whatever info is there and run with it. Wishing you a Merry Christmas if you celebrate, and Happy printing for the year to come ^-^

@ed01987 Год назад

I hate to resurrect an old comment thread, but does anyone know of any resources that are more current than 2017? Specifically for this style of printer? Just in case there have been more updates since then? I'm just getting back into the hobby and I'm way out of date.

@trykusumawardana3014 6 лет назад

hello master,,, when i trying to do, there was a problem while uploading, """ '_SET_INPUT' was not declared in this scope "" can you help me..?| how to solve this problem.. thanks..

@vulrath8154 4 года назад

worked!! thank you for the video. If i wanted to re-flash the firmware down the road for a bltouch or w/e do i have to go through the whole using arduino thing again??

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

after you've written the firmware the first time, you should only have to connect to your computer via USB any time you want to change the firmware.

@vulrath8154 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors yea figured it out! ty for responding though on this old post! following!

@chrismark4666 4 года назад

Using an Arduino Uno as noted in your description above and downloaded this particular repetier also noted above. Getting quite a few errors when trying to compile and looked like the configuration file was set to the wrong board (I believe it should be set to 63?). What settings need to be set before trying to update firmware to get the basics going? My goals are to update to this firmware and then install auto-bed leveling per your other video. Appreciate any help!

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

So, it depends on which firmware you're attempting to write to your printer. The Motherboard in the Repetier Firmware is 63, which is correct as of the version of this printer I own. However, if you're attempting to write the Marlin firmware from the other video for Auto Bed Leveling, the main board is going to be different. (BOARD_MELZI) If you're having a hard time getting either version of the firmware to build, you may need to uninstall the Arduino IDE and install the 1.8.3 version. Also, I believe you need to use this version of the Sanguino library: github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/releases/tag/1.0.1 (Use the Source Code link) and I believe the U8g library should be right. I probably need to make an update video since people are still following these. -- Let me know if you have any issues getting that to work.

@chrismark4666 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors thanks for the reply! I was able to get the Marlin firmware to upload correctly (based on the video you created for auto bed leveling). Now need to get the inductive sensor mounted before I add the G29 code to my slicer (Cura) and also think I need to make that change to the configuration.h file in the firmware, correct?

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

@@chrismark4666 If you were able to write the firmware to your printer and your bed and hot end are reading the correct temperature, I don't think you should have to make any changes to the configuration.h file. Glad to hear you got it working though

@chrismark4666 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors Excellent! now to follow the rest of the video and get the inductive sensor working and add the G29 code to the slicer!

@CarsnGuns 2 года назад

If I wanted to slow back down the selector knob, how do I do that?

@RemainIndoors 2 года назад

Assuming you're using the Repetier firmware linked in this video, there's a setting in the Configuration.h file called UI_Encoder_Speed. it's set to 1, but changing it to 2 should slow it down. forum.repetier.com/discussion/3514/how-to-calibrate-the-display-encoder If you're using Marlin from the other video, there should be something similar in the Configuration.h - searching for Marlin Encoder speed on google should get you where you need to go.

@CarsnGuns 2 года назад

@@RemainIndoors I’ll see if I can’t find it. I like the speed but one knob click makes it move like crazy so it’s hard to be exact.

@CarsnGuns 2 года назад

@@RemainIndoors so now my hot end cooling fan doesn’t work when running repetier. The extruder fan kicks on no problem after the first layer but I can’t find where to turn on the other fan. I have plugged the hot end fan into the extruder fan plug and it works. It worked before the swap over from stock firmware to repetier. Any ideas?

@RemainIndoors 2 года назад

@@CarsnGuns Have you opened the box back up to make sure those wires are plugged into the main board in the correct orientation? + to + and - to - I haven't heard of anybody having problems with the firmware messing up the fans.

@CarsnGuns 2 года назад

@@RemainIndoors I don’t think I ever unplugged those connectors. I’ll swap the connector at the fan to see what happens.

@digitalartsagent1338 4 года назад

Thank you for the video! do you know if these steps will work with the Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2?

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

Is that the one with the touchscreen? If so, the process would be a little bit different. The Monoprice Maker Select v2 is pretty much just a rebranded version of the Wanhao Duplicator i3, so anything you can do to a Maker Select v2, you should be able to do to the Wanhao. However, if it has a touchscreen, the firmware and drivers you need are different. It may even have a different main board, I'm not sure. But I wouldn't follow the process in this video if your printer has a touchscreen.

@digitalartsagent1338 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors There is no touch screen, thank you.

@varazir 5 лет назад

Hmm I managed to installed the firmware but Octoprint can't connect to the printer anymore. I get a ttysUSB device and Octoprint fail to connect. tested several different speeds.

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

you'll most likely have to remote into the octopi operating system and detect the USB devices again. I've had to do it in the past. I'm not particularly an expert an Linux operating systems so I don't remember the exact commands, but you should be able to find info about how to do it on either RU-vid or through a Google search.

@Hugocraft 6 лет назад

Wiped the eprom with an arduino successfully and the arduino is sitting off to the side. Wrote marlin.ino successfully also from your dropbox link but I need to reverse z min endstop and z min probe so I edited the config.h tab and saved it. But now that I set the PWR-SEL back to vreg but my computer doesn't see the printer with the printer off. As instructed in the video I set PWR-SEL to vreg and closed the box up meaning I would have to reopen it to set it back to USB. To re-flash with it set to vreg am I supposed to power up the printer, plug it into the pc, then I'm safe to re-upload the changed Marlin.ino file?

@cube1us 5 лет назад

Once you have done this procedure, in future you would leave PWR-SEL to Vreg, and plug your PC into the USB port on the 3D printer box. And yes, you have to have the printer on to reflash it directly. The real purpose of this vid was to show you how to get the booloader onto the chip,

@willfrancone3908 6 лет назад

I did everything correctly or so I thought because when I put it back together and turned it on Nothing except a small sound from the power supply. I then took it apart and everything looks right I checked the voltage of the power supply with my multimeter and I got no voltage. Then stupid me I went to check the ac voltage going into the power supply and I got a wave of sparks and I blew the breaker in my room so I will have to buy a new power supply but other then that what do you think was wrong everything was plugged in right but not even the power supply fan turned on this is a bummer because I just install a E3D hot end and I was looking forward to using it this weekend.

@BooX33 4 года назад

You may have figured this out by now since it's been a year since you commented, but it sounds like you tested the voltage with your meter in current test mode. Multimeter's go dead short across the probes when measuring current so you may have blown the fuse in your psu when you tried measuring the output voltage, then you shorted the mains when testing ac voltage, that's why your breaker tripped. There's no reason for that to happen if the meter was set to voltage test. Always good practice to set your meter back to voltage test after using the current test, prevents making mistakes like that. :P Also a good idea to never test ac mains voltage with a cheap meter. Nothing guarantees that it won't explode in your hands if it's set to current test.

@oops19631 4 года назад

i just do everything in the video but i have that message avrdude: Error: Could not find USBtiny device (0x2341/0x49)

@vulrath8154 4 года назад

when do you get this message?

@MySniperfi 6 лет назад

When I click the checkmark to compile the sketch I get "Error compiling for board Sanguino."

@ByeJon 5 лет назад

Joshua Smith me too!

@heartben 4 года назад

I am hoping someone will see this soon. I am trying to upload the bootloader and I keep getting this "Expected signature for ATmega1284P is 1E 97 05 "

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

I've never seen that before, Are you sure you have the correct board selected that you're trying to upload the bootloader to? Otherwise, I found this thread that mentions that exact error, so maybe there's helpful information there? forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=121305.0

@heartben 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors Very kind of you to reply so quickly! I am using (I think) the newest arduino program and under boards I don't have genuino so I just picked arduino uno - and the sanguino is under sanguino-avr in its own drop down. I don't know if it helps at all but the board I'm using is the Melzi Hybrid A4988 v3.5 - I assume you have the same one though! I saw that thread a bit ago but I can't seem to find those files. I only got this arduino stuff to update firmware on a couple printers so I am pretty much brand new to this.

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

@@heartben gotcha, I used the Arduino IDE 1.8.3 in this video, so if you're not using that one, you may want to go back in their archives to get that version to be on the safe side. Also, the version of the Sanguino Board linked in the description may have been updated since I did this video, so you may want to uninstall the one you installed, and try this one instead: github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/releases/tag/1.0.2 - I believe that was the version I used for this video. The u8glib that's linked in the description should still be the correct one. I can't guarantee this is your problem, but hopefully using all of the same versions I was using should get it working for you.

@heartben 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors This is the part where I hang my head in shame and admit that I had the row of cables up 1 too high. I moved them all down and it worked. I am a dunce! However I would still like to thank you for replying to me! It is awesome considering how old this video is. Now I can finally move to the next step!

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

@@heartben it's all good. I'm glad you figured it out.

@hupo 5 лет назад

Will this firmware allow me to get my printer up to 300c?

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

I believe it's limited to 275. It could be edited to allow 300c by editing the Configuration.h file, but I wouldn't recommend going above 230 though unless you've changed your hotend. By default, this printer has a piece of PTFE tube inside the nozzle, and they start to degrade between 220 and 240 - depending on the manufacturer of the PTFE.

@spacenoodles5570 5 лет назад

Does this work for the i3 mini?

@justinneumann1492 6 лет назад

just sucessfully flashed your repetier i still have factory thermistors and temps seem a bit out of whack. Do i have to change something in the config file before flashing?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

That's strange. I was using the stock thermistors when I still had this firmware flashed. but here's a link to the Configuration.h file Repetier has documented: github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/blob/master/src/ArduinoDUE/Repetier/Configuration.h If you look at EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE in the Configuration.h file you'll see it's set to 14, which is the 100K NTC 3950 thermistor. Both thermistors in the Maker Select (Bed and Hotend) are the same by default, and I've heard they're both 100K sensors. if 14 isn't working out for you, you may want to experiment with the other 100K sensors (1 and 12) unless you can find online which thermistor it definitely is, I never had any problems with 14, and I switched back to the original hotend so both of my thermistors are the originals, but I'm running Marlin firmware now, which has both thermistors setup as 100K Hisens 3950 and I haven't had any problems personally

@justinneumann1492 6 лет назад

Yeah it's odd both thermistors reading 48 degrees resting temps

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

yeah, that's definitely odd. mine was resting about 24 degrees C when some of my other printers would read around 23. So it was a little off, but not by that much. Are you updating a Maker Select? or a Wanhao i3? also when did you buy yours?

@justinneumann1492 6 лет назад

Remain Indoors it's a wanhoa i3 few years old though

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

I got my Maker Select v2 in February of last year and I believe it was the second iteration of the Maker Select which is just a rebranded Wanhao i3. it sounds like your printer has different thermistors. You could try digging around online to see if you can find any information on which version of the thermistor the older Wanhao i3 has, but even the 3dprinterwiki has it listed as the one in this firmware: 3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/part-specifications/#Hotend Worst case scenario, you could test a couple of the other thermistor options in the firmware to see if one seems to line up right with the actual temperatures. There's a custom thermistor table option as well, but that seems like a nightmare so I've never gone down that road myself. Also, amazon sells 100K 3950 Thermistors 5 for $10.

@kierannicholas8956 6 лет назад

when i try to compile it says exit status 1 im using your marlin upload

@kierannicholas8956 6 лет назад

dw ive done it

@yggdrazill3162 4 года назад

Hi, does this method work on a wanhao di3 v2.1? as well as for the burnloader?

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

you may want to search around online a little bit. I think I saw the 2.1 is actually what I have, but the Maker Select Plus is the one with the touchscreen and all in one piece. If you have the printer with the separate box holding the power supply and screen, and your mainboard is the same as the one in this video, I believe this video should work fine for you.

@yggdrazill3162 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors Thanks for the answer, I have a wanhao di3 v2.1 so I think it should be good, I will try to do the burnloader ;)

@yggdrazill3162 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors hello, I managed to install the repetier firmware on my wanhao di3 v2.1, is it possible to customize the boot screen?

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

@@yggdrazill3162 it is possible yes. I did once in Marlin about 2 years ago, but it would take a while to explain and I haven't done it in so long I'd have to refresh myself on the subject. I may make a video on that, but short answer is yes it is possible.

@yggdrazill3162 4 года назад

@@RemainIndoors Ok, yes I customized the boot of my u20 alfawise but it's a little different from the repetier firmware, I would love to see a video about it, thanks.

@chrisworley8528 5 лет назад

ever had a error compiling for board ? its showing a warning for sdcarddetect redefined

@chrisworley8528 5 лет назад

also a undefined reference to 'stepperwait'

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

Are these errors for the firmware I put up for download in Dropbox? the warning shouldn't matter, that's just a warning and the build should complete anyway. Also stepperWait is defined in HAL.cpp which is the only place that uses that variable after it's defined, so that doesn't make much sense. Are you using a different configuration.h file than the one I uploaded?

@chrisworley8528 5 лет назад

The stepper wait was causing the issue and not compiling.. I was able to modify it and make it work. One question I do have is the rotary knob is to jumpy and the beep isnt gone. Do you know where I can change these settings?

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

@@chrisworley8528 In the configuration.h file, change “#define UI_ENCODER_SPEED 1” to “#define UI_ENCODER_SPEED 2” and “#define UI_KEY_BOUNCETIME 10” to “#define UI_KEY_BOUNCETIME 20” - That should make the rotary knob less jumpy or you can play around with those values if that's not better. To remove the beep sounds, In the ui.cpp find and replace “BEEP_SHORT “ with “//BEEP_SHORT”. I thought I had done this before uploading this firmware, but I may have had to reupload at one point and forgot to make those changes first.

@chrisworley8528 5 лет назад

@@RemainIndoors So i just went to go home all and it doesnt go to the center of the bed to home z height it just goes to the front corner as usual. Any ideas ?

@varazir 5 лет назад

How do I know witch COM port the meltzi board ?

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

open Device manager by pressing the start button, then typing Device Manager and press Enter. Then expand the part that says Ports (COM & LPT). unplug your melzi board from your computer, then plug it back in, whichever COM port gets added back is your Melzi board

@varazir 5 лет назад

@@RemainIndoors I tried to communicate over the ardinuo board. Connected the printer directly to my computer and all worked just fine :)

@PlaidX 7 лет назад

What are the benefits?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

At the moment, the only real benefit is the ability to change the thermistors. Since it would be difficult to find the exact same thermistors that came on the stock printer from a 3rd party seller. or For example if you decided to install a genuine e3d v6 hotend. they use a completely different thermistor, and you'd have to change the firmware to accomodate that. However, a few days ago I worked out how to install Auto Bed Leveling on the stock board without having to change any internal wiring. I'll be putting up a video explaining that process within the next couple of weeks hopefully, but that will require burning a bootloader and writing new firmware to the board.

@varazir 5 лет назад

I get C:\Users\dan\AppData\Local\Temp\ccEt6EqI.ltrans7.ltrans.o:sketch/HAL.cpp:662: more undefined references to `stepperWait' follow collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status exit status 1 Error compiling for board Sanguino.

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

you may want to try using Arduino IDE version 1.8.3. I know that's worked for me in the past, and different versions of Arduino IDE include different libraries by default, so that sketch may require one that a newer version of the IDE doesn't have.

@varazir 5 лет назад

@@RemainIndoors I tested 1.6.0 Test works fine buy when I try to upload it I get to answers; 1 When I select com port for the arduino I get a msg say wrong board typ. I have selected the AmegaT1284 If I select COM port 1 I get this vrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x01 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x01 Boot loader installed OK before no errors.

@varazir 5 лет назад

@@RemainIndoors I got it to work I hade to add long __attribute__((used)) stepperWait = 0; and removing another line in the HAL.cpp file

@ynotdenton 5 лет назад

This is a great video, I just you would have left the music off so you could be heard a little better????

@oootoob 3 года назад

I only watch this for the music

@ronlong6044 6 лет назад

Great video, thanks. It has given me hope. My original Melzi board on my Maker Select 2.0 went up in smoke !! Monoprice tells me that the board they were using is now not available. So... I bought a new Melzi 2.0 board with the right connectors so I thought everything would be great. I followed your video instructions and bought an Arduino board and jumpers like you suggested. I compiled and uploaded the boot loader to the new Melzi board. Things worked great up to this point. When I try to compile and upload the Repetier-Firmware, it won't. It errors out with the following error. sketch/HAL.cpp:662: undefined reference to `stepperWait' (in HAL.ccp) I have the latest 1.8.6 Arduino software and the Repetier firmware from your link. From my searches, It looks like others may be having the same problem. I was just wondering if you had recently tried compiling the firmware you have listed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Ron.....

@ronlong6044 6 лет назад

FYI... I downloaded the Arduino 1.6.9 IDE (at the suggestion of one of the Repetier software authors) and everything compiled and installed perfectly. Thanks again for a great video.

@zeekproperties 5 лет назад

I had to downgrade to arduino 1.8.3 and reboot after install. But all went fine with the flashing the repetier firmware and installing the mosfet upgrade to prevent the fire. I may upgrade to the marlin firmware later. Any plan to make a video and your configuration.h file? Thanks!

@craigb8929 5 лет назад

Great guide, thank you for creating this. I'm having issues with Compiling/Verify on the Configuration.h file. The one I found online for this board is being reported as old. Any help with finding an updated Configuration.h file for this printer on Marlin 1.1.9?

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

Thanks. I haven't tried working with Marlin 1.1.9 yet unfortunately, so I'm not sure. I think this video specifically has Repetier firmware in the description, and one of my other videos on installing an auto bed leveling sensor has an older version of Marlin that works with this printer, but it's not 1.1.9. I may look into that in the future, best of luck though.

@Dave_the_Dave 5 лет назад

Excellent guide, especially on using the arduino to burn the bootloader. I'm going to give this a shot later today if I can find or make some cables to connect to the Melzi pins.

@BMStoryTime 4 года назад

Won't help? Unless they can PROVE that the upgrade caused the issue or is related to the issue, congrats on violating the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act.

@BeauBerryBiscut Месяц назад

I did this 4 years ago and I came back to you video to ask you how to update the firmware? Do I need to repeat the process? My biggest concern right now is my dial is no longer very responsive and kinda just does what it wants

@RemainIndoors Месяц назад

did you leave your printer sitting unused for a long time by chance? I stopped printing anything for almost 2 years and the dial on a couple of my printers got corroded or something, so I had to turn the dial back and forth a lot to get them to start working normally again. something like Deoxit probably wouldn't be a bad idea if so. potentiometers tend to corrode over time in guitars, 3D printers and anything else. But, if you want to flash the firmware again, you should be able to connect your printer to your computer via USB cable directly and flash it straight from the Arduino IDE. Since you burned a bootloader to the board, that should be all you have to do. I haven't modded printers in a long time so I don't remember all of the steps, but it should be mostly the same as this video, minus the need to use an Arduino Uno.

@rtcfpv1012 6 лет назад

Is it the same procedure for the Maker Select Plus?

@MySniperfi 6 лет назад

theres a better marlin based firmware for the maker select plus. cant remember the name of it ATM

@paradigmplay 4 года назад

Is there any way to update the firmware by just using the sd card slot and/or the usb input? I just purchased this used, and while calibrating it, it looks like I corrupted the firmware a bit. Not feeling very confident in going in and taking it all apart.

@roberthorniacek4559 4 года назад

is there another way to do that

@kd9432 4 года назад

my sd card wont read multiple cards that worked before. some time it will read. and get everything ready to print hot wise then it says sd card error. and other times it will reboot screen after reboot screen. do i need to new board?

@RemainIndoors 4 года назад

are you using the Repetier firmware? or the Marlin firmware with the Auto Bed Leveling functionality? I don't think I've tested the SD card much on the Marlin firmware, since I always run it on a USB cable. you may want to try formatting the SD card and moving files to it again, and if that doesn't work, maybe try updating the firmware again. I can't imagine it would be a bad board, unless something got shorted out or a contact came loose on the board.

@jimislew6310 6 лет назад

Hi, I can't get my Melzi board to show up in the Port area. Both my Melzi and Uno go to COM3. If I unplug UNO I still can't see the Melzi in the Port area. Any suggestions? Edit: So... wasn't plugged in.

@flatoutrc1 4 года назад

I keep getting this code, what am I missing??? Error compiling for board Sanguino. This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" option enabled in File -> Preferences.

@jdel1976 5 лет назад

Burned the bootloader with success. But I can't see a COM port for the melzi board. Normally I can hear when i connect a USB device with unknown drivers, I don't even see that. Com ports in the device manager don't even notice anything is plugged in.

@jtendarkside8194 5 лет назад

When I compiled the Repetier firmware I recieved several errors. I did not make any changes to any of the files I just downloaded from drop box and compiled.

@NeilChoinski 6 лет назад

Just in case anyone else has the same issue I had I felt I need to comment. For 5 hours I couldn't figure out why I couldn't upload a new firmware. I kept getting an error that it couldn't access device and access denied. Turns out that at some point in the past I installed Repetier host on my computer and it was blocking access. I think it was a server running. going to task manager and ending the task freed up my printers com port and it worked first try..... Thank you Remain Indoors for this guide. Followed your links to get my supplies.

@justinneumann1492 6 лет назад

Hey mate great video im gonna give this a go tomorrow. can i still use this firmware with the original thermistors?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

Thank you. yes it should work with the original thermistors

@justinneumann1492 6 лет назад

Awesome one more question. I've upgrade my extruder motor to something wider than the original I take it I can edit the X axis width in the firmware before flashing it?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

you can if you want to, or you can edit the steps/mm after you've flashed the firmware using something like Repetier Host.

@DirkaDirka07 5 лет назад

I had to change both extruder and bed sensor type to 97.

@Explore531 6 лет назад

is there anyway too lower down the led lighting on the screen? thanks

@anthonystevenson9284 5 лет назад

What does set_output (ss) mean????

@blk00rt 5 лет назад

i get an error when burning bootloader could not find tiny usb device...any ideas on how to fix it?

@blk00rt 5 лет назад

found it i had it set to isp instead of as isp

@maciejajewski 5 лет назад

Keep up the good work. You helped me a good bit :)

@tbrickman 6 лет назад

Friend, thank you very much for this tutorial. I got a new melzi board and after connecting all the wires, I followed your tutorial, and I think it worked, except the lcd/control nob doesn't seem to be working. Do you have any tips you can give me to get my printer up and running?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

hmm. First, I'd make sure you have the LCD cable plugged in the correct way. Also make sure you don't have any bent pins on the board. Second, is it the same Melzi board that came in your printer originally? When you burned the bootloader did it say "Done Burning Bootloader"? and did it succeed in writing the firmware? If the LCD screen is blank, it's most likely the cable plugged in backwards. if the screen is displaying the firmware correctly, but the knob doesn't work, it could either be a bad pin on the new Melzi, or the firmware doesn't match the pins on the new Melzi board. Best of luck

@tbrickman 6 лет назад

Remain Indoors it is not the original board. I had the power connecter burn, so I bought a replacement. The screen is black, but the extruder fan is on. Thanks for your help so far. I'm pretty sure everything burned correctly, and there are no bent pins. Do you have any suggestions on a different firmware version?

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

did you try flipping the LCD cable around backwards on the board? if it wrote to the board using the instructions I outlined in this video, then it should be the right kind of board. The firmware is the right firmware for the original Melzi board and LCD. Otherwise, you may need to talk to whoever you bought the board from for help. There's only so much I can speculate on without actually getting to work on the printer.

@tbrickman 6 лет назад

Remain Indoors thanks a lot. So so you think it is possible that the board is defective? If so, do you think I've hit the limit on time/money invested in this machine? Thanks.

@cube1us 5 лет назад

Nice video. I was wondering, is there a place where one can find the original firmware for the Maker Select V2, and its configuration.h settings? Before I undertake something like this, its always reassuring to have a way to get back to the original ;)

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

Good question. I made this video almost 2 years ago at this point, and at the time they had not released the firmware publicly, which may or may not violate some terms of the license of the Repetier firmware if it is open source, since the original firmware is just Repetier Firmware that was modified specifically for the Wanhao i3 and later the Monoprice Maker Select V2. If you're interested in trying to find the original, I would google around for Original Wanhao i3 firmware or original Maker Select firmware. you may get lucky and find something. There are copies of the exact same printer from other brands, but I haven't looked around for it since I made this video. My printer is now running Marlin firmware and an Auto Bed Leveling sensor, which I went over in a couple of my other videos. But anyway, Best of luck to you trying to find it. ^-^

@cube1us 5 лет назад

I actually found a way to back up my firmware on my MakerSelect V2. Using the Arduino as an ISP as you described in your video, I was able to use avrdude at the command line to read everything. Fortunately, neither LB1 nor LB2 (the lock bits) were set. I did have to tweak the ArduinoISP example project code to make this work. By default it used the SPI header rather than pins 11, 12 and 13. But that might have been a red herring - the code claims that on the Uno they are the same. I also had to specify a matching baud rate in avrdude (19200). One or the other or both was required. Before I did that, avrdude was reading the Arduino itself rather than the melzi board firmware. Also, interestingly, while I was able to read an Arduino board via my MiniPro TL866A, the melzi board always came back with zeros for everything - and the ISP pinouts for the two are the same. I know I have the right stuff because the flash is clearly related to 3D printing, and the signature is correct (before I tweaked things, I kept getting back the Arduino chip's signature, or, when using the MiniPro, all zeros for the chip signature.)

@cube1us 5 лет назад

I got it to load the bootloader using the Arduino as ISP just fine, and after making the change to HAL.cpp noted in my other message to fix the issue with stepperWait [which, BTW is also a committed change on the Repetier github], I as able to compile and upload the version of Repetier you linked to, and it came up and I could talk to it via the serial monitor. BTW, setting the data rate to 19200 was critical in getting avrdude to read the firmware back out (I did that with the new firmware installed just like I had with the old.) Space used was just a tad more than in the video: 123454 on my compile under Arduino 1.8.7 vs. 122440 in your video. I noticed you left the reset jumper in place. Is that required for future firmware uploads via USB? Any downside to it?

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

@@cube1us check out the sub-text at 9:23 I moved the reset jumper back, but forgot to film myself doing it. physically your printer should be no different than when it started, and you should be able to burn new firmware through the USB port as long as you've burned a bootloader to the board.

@JohnnyUke 5 лет назад

Is thermal runaway protection enabled in this firmware?

@RemainIndoors 5 лет назад

yes. KILL_IF_SENSOR_DEFECT is turned on, Also the max temps for Bed and Hotend are 120 and 300. you can change any of that in the Configuration.h file if you want to

@JohnnyUke 5 лет назад

Remain Indoors just from the safety aspects the upgrade seems like a must have.

@sofubard 6 лет назад

Hi, great video and just what I'm trying to do (although with a bltouch). I get to the programming section 5:50 but then get rrors uploading to the board. Have double checked connections and settings but can't see anything amiss. Any help would be greatly appreciated Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Uno" Sketch uses 4420 bytes (13%) of program storage space. Maximum is 32256 bytes. Global variables use 483 bytes (23%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1565 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes. avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xe1 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6e avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x50 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x3c avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x04 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6e avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x56 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x48 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6a avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x66 An error occurred while uploading the sketch

@sofubard 6 лет назад

Issue was the pin outs are different on a Mega 2560. Using this page i was able to burn the bootloader

@RemainIndoors 6 лет назад

Apologies, this message was Held for Review so I just saw it. glad to hear you figured it out though

@chrisearlyup 6 лет назад

Hi there, First of all great video. Thanks for the effort. I just got an UNO R8 clone with an ATmega328 and stumbled upon a similar problem when trying to flash my wanhao i3 with the Melzi v4.3. When trying to burn the bootloader I get the error message as following: Arduino: 1.8.6 (Windows 7), Board: "Sanguino, ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)" avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x15 avrdude: stk500_getparm(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x14 avrdude: stk500_getparm(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x01 avrdude: stk500_initialize(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x10 avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1 Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check. avrdude: stk500_disable(): unknown response=0x12 I double checked my wiring and looked up the pinout of the ATmega328. Is it a problem with choosing the correct processor? Or am I missing something else? edit: also tryed the "old-wiring method". still no luck

@chrisearlyup 6 лет назад

Never mind, I figured it out. Had to revert back to Arduino ide 1.8.3 and used sanguine 1.1 to be sure and it worked fine. Now I just have to figure out why the Temps on the thermistors are of by 20° (showing 44°C when room temperature is 22°C)

@andrewd8060 4 года назад

@@chrisearlyup Thanks for pointing out the version issue. Arduino IDE 1.8.10 did not complile for me either (arduino clone ATmega328 + Melzi), but Arduino IDE 1.8.3 does.