Come and join me on various engineering projects with all sorts of engineering repairs in many different areas, from motorbikes and motorhomes to mowers and more... Don't forget to like and subscribe. Thanks for viewing.
Absolutely enjoyed your video . But can you do 1 where you replace the points , gap them both , and adjust timing . This very specifically, just checks timing . Great job ,thank you Gary .
I've got a 1982 KZ1100 A2 (US designation), I parked it about 12 years ago do to leaky fork seals, it's been kept in the garage since I've owned it. last year I finally started working on it, after 12 years it needed more that fork seals, also had to go through the breaks, carb, new tires, etc. Last winter I reworked the clutch. It does use some oil, has since I've owned it. I'm thinking about redoing the top end but am not looking forward to removing the engine from the frame to do so. I can get the head off without removing the engine but an not sure about the cylinder block. This is my second KZ1100A, my first I bought with in 1984 with about 2500 miles on it, this one I bought around 2005. My first one I had installed a higher performance cam, re-jetted the carbs and did some minor work to the ignition, all of which really woke it up.😀 I should have never sold it...
you can hook al 4 tubes from the gauges into a single manifold and pull a vacuum from the same source, all 4 gauges should read the same, if not you will known which one(s) are off.
Well done Gary, by fitting that insert you avoid any potential risks of heat distortion that could possibly occur by welding up that stud hole and re tapping. What about your blue Z 1100 shaft drive, do you still have that bike? 😉👍🏻
If I know a bolt is liable to shear I always heat it anyway, it's a lot quicker to spend a few minutes heating than spend hours trying to get the broken bit out. Sometimes it makes no difference but worth the effort and works often.
If I remember correctly, two bolts on the cases are locktighted originally, and should be when rebuilding. I think the manual tells you.They can easily be sheered off if you don’t heat. I can’t remember which ones but I think it was the one you heated plus the matching one opposite.
Yes your bang on the nail, never really new the reason for this , but if mr kawasaki say this what we do then so be it, they must have their reasons. Cheers Gary
Thanks for doing these vids Gary, I have a KZ900 engine I am about to start stripping down so interesting to follow what you are doing and finding, thanks
I loved the engineering in these early roller brg crank Kawasaki’s one of the only manufacturers to use shells for their cams which to me didn’t smack of being a disposable machine like so many others having said that the alloy used in jap heads seems to b a pretty gd brg material
I do my 650 b1 like you but a quicker setup is get a portable radio turn volume up on frequency with no station. You will hear a click from the radio when the points open.
You are Welcome, having a bit of a break at present, but last phase coming soon stripdown and rebuild of the Z1 engine that came out of the bike. Cheers Gary
Hi Gary just watching your vids as doing a z900 rebuild shortly and noticed when you tightened the swing arm pivot bolt you backed it off so it appeared to be lightly torqued up to move easily. The Kawasaki workshop manual says the pivot bolt on the z900 should be done up to 58-87 ft-lbs are the earlier ones different or is this what you set it to? Thanks keep the vids coming!
Hi I backed it off because it seemed to pinch the swing are, I checked all the bits and all is correct, so to allow the are to move freely I did not torque it, however , I would recommend a lock nut on the end of the arm shaft, and check regularly. Cheers Gary
Another unexpected video gary enjoyed it very much I know what u mean about getting fed up on the holiday days its nice to get in the workshop cheers and thx for taking the time to video it 👍
Thanks for the ride. That was a sooth as silk. I've got 38,000 miles on my 74 Z1 and never blew that fuse, in fact I'm not sure I even have one, but if I do, I'll need to carry spare!!
Haha it looked super easy to fit the ring back on. I don’t know why but I can’t get the thing back on. It always is at an angle and gets blocked. Every watertank has a better fit. Do you have any tricks?
We used to do the timing with a cigarette paper .. setting it to come loose in your fingers on the F mark & gap the points with ring tab from beer cans , it was very close to 14 thou But hey it was Australia in the 1970’s
