I just found this channel. Great info and I was really looking forward to seeing him build the Curta from scratch. I went to his blog website and found that he passed away in 2023. Rest in peace and thank you for sharing your knowledge in a fun way.
Its taken me most of the weekend but I think I have it right and repeatable. I followed Justin's method and also read the blog he linked in the info and like he said and its read some changes may need to be made but on both instances its a really great start. The TSP was a great degreaser, follow Justin's amounts. I used both 3% & 6% hydrogen peroxide I found using 3% required an extra tablespoon of salt and required 1 less for the 6%. I used the same amount about quater of a cup. Heat it up as per the video. I used 8% acidic vinegar same times displayed in the video. I brushed it on as per the video, dried it off with a heat gun as per the video I just gently wiped of the bubbly bits before putting it in the boiling water. I live in Brisbane Australia and our tap water worked no differently than using demineralised water, I tried both. I followed Justin's instructions and ecthed the parts straight out of the water. Once etched I dried them off and followed the process from step 2 through to 5 until I was happy with the black oxide finish personal preference. If your strapped for time doing the final boil for 10 minutes works just as good as 20 minutes. Changing the water before the last boil isn't a must from what I tell it keeps the oil cleaner without transferring red oxide residue. I tried 3 types of oil soak, vegetable oil, mineral oil and new engine oil. Forget the engine must have something to do with the detergents in it. Vegetable oil worked well but mineral oil (baby oil) worked best. Oil soaking time didn't effect anything if I soaked overnight or soaked it until it cooled down. All in all in, my first time doing any black oxidising it was great fun i learnt so much about household chemicals, Justin's video has an excellent explanation and easy to follow process. All ingredients purchased from the supermarket except hydrogen peroxide i purchased that from my local chemist. Give it a try. Thanks for sharing it.
The old 'Brown Bess' blunderbuss were rust-blued, but the rusting chemistry was different. Antimony salts were commonly used...you'd get a deep purple-brown finish. Was common to 'scald' steel parts using cooking oil after they were colored...like seasoning a frying-pan.
IMHO: THE MUSIC IS WAY TOO LOUD, AND DISTRACTING!!!...IT'S TOO BAD THAT SO MANY HOURS ARE WASTED TRYING TO "IMPROVE" THE MACHINES, INSTEAD OF MAKING THINGS!!..
This follows my previous comment. One way to detect conformity at the cone interface is by a blue ink test. Same ink we use in metal scraping. You will be the judge how much % contact area meets your satisfaction. If we desired to keep the same concept design and time invested in making it, consider this. Options: 1. Replace the inverted solid cone by a ER collet that fits the post bolt and the hollow cone. This way the flexibility in the collet can play a conformance role to better the conformity for stronger holding force. 2. Replace the inverted cone by a matching size metal ball. Ball with a hollow axle and without the northern hemisphere. So the half sphere is pinching against and expanding the hollow cone. 3. Replace the steel solid cone by an equal sized cone made of semi-fluid/solid material to catch up with the expansion of the hollow cone. Material can range from high hardness tire rubber trough lead and up to soft aluminum or soft copper (and not brass). Caveat? down this path we may experience difficulty in releasing the tool holder. That is caused by cone surface friction, because of the soft material had dug into the micro striations on the hollowed cone. That can be entertained by grinding and followed by lapping. 4. Is further improvement on 1 thru 3 above. Yo make a horizontal mirror copy of the upper half cone system to the lower half. Hope this helps.
Worked perfectly for me. Thank you Sir! I learned a new skill today. As a side note: I just rinsed the rusty paste off under the tap every time before I dunked it into the boiling water.
WOW! That’s such a simple design but can do some serious cuts!!!! I always looked at those QCTP’s and thought there might be a simpler way to design them, and this is a super awesome idea! You mention it belongs to another engineer and you just made some improvements to it, right? Wish I could scale that down to a Sherline lathe but not sure it would be able to cut it that nice. That shaper can be slow but sure it is a nice machine!!!! Could you tell us the total time it took you to make it? And a guesstimate on how long it would shorten the time by using a mill VS the shaper ? Thank you for sharing this project!
When cutting threads, it helps to clean the drill of chips and oil it beforehand, as in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XyJaDEv_x9Y.html
Love to hear what you're saying, but my laptops sound is at 100 percent and still isn't loud enough 😂Maybe I have to try at night when everything is at it's most quiet 😎
thanks for this which was informative as well as entertaining!: I have small handwriting and have only purchased the p205 and p203 to date - have held off the 207 and 209 as think they may produce too broad a line for me but am happy to be corrected by you if you think I’m missing out:) - thanks for this: have subscribed and liked:)
You've been MIA from the RU-vid scene for quite awhile. I really enjoyed your videos. I you are still around and can reply to this comment, if you have any information on how to use the various functions of this DRO display, please share them here. Thanks
May I ask about the correct way to remove a collet once its firmed into place with the draw bar? I'm having to hammer the end of the draw bar to get the (MT3) taper free. This must be imparting quite an impact to the bearing of the lathe, which can't be a good idea. Should it come free quite easily, or is it OK just to keep on hammering?
Nicely done. Most impressed w 11+k subs and no ads! Loved the music. Electrolysis to convert the red iron oxide to black iron oxide might work more painlessly. I know it removes "rust" and the parts look black afterwards, but I'm not sure it's actually converting Fe2O3 to Fe3O4. Thanks for the video.
I was just curious about this project ? Have you completed it ? I would like to build my own . Would you share your sources or drawings with me ? I would pay for them . I live in the US . Thank you Terry
I have better luck using gun bluing and a torch. While it's hot, I put it in burnt motor oil. I use 0000 steel wood to clean the parts up. It takes about 3 treatments. I do a final dip in clean motor oil and use a rag. I made a hitch pin for my riding mower to pull my lawn aerator. It'll last about a month, but I still got some rust on it. The only thing that helps is using a clearcoat finish.
Rust blueing is a WASTE OF YOUR TIME! Do it like Gun Manufacturers do it ( im a 74 year old Gunsmith) which is HOT Blueing using heating if the part and dropping in a non detergent oil, like an automotive engine oil! Doubt it? Look at Colts deep luster Blue finish on $2 000 Pythons that lasts a centur!y
Hi . Great video lesson, timely, thank you. I just acquired an old Craftsman lathe, it has a milling attachment and I am just learning a whole bunch of stuff about milling. Especially about needing a draw bar and collets for holding tools etc. The lathe has a 3MT spindle, is it possible to make such a draw bar as yours if I obtain a 3MT collet chuck? Also, what size is the thread on the end of the collet chuck? I am hesitating of getting one because I don't want to get one just to not use it if it is wrong. What size dye did you use for cutting the threads?? Thanks again.
Just watched this again. I sure miss your RU-vid videos. I don't know why you stopped making them, but I sure do miss seeing your creative and entertaining videos. Please reply to this comment and let us know. Thanks.
i think if you wouldve closed the bottom parts of the machine stand and used course sand (something that doesn't seep out the nooks and gaps in the stand ) or even lead shot you would've accomplished about the same with adding weight to the base (would flex a little more as with the loose material it can still move some ) BUT you be able to take the weight out again to be able to move the stand that now that its cast full of cement must weigh more than the engine hoist can handle , especially if it needs to be moved out of the building and up/down a ramp i have a fairly similar stand (and a square mast rf45 ) but because im tall i put about 5 layers of 20mm mdf under it with adjustable feet on treaded rods through and through to the original holes in the bottom of the stand i guess that because the mdf ties the loose sheetmetal sides together on the bottom i dont have the wobble you showed at the start of the video ,,,,, it does ring like a bell though at certain frequencies , might stick a few of those car stereo sound deadener sheets on the inside at some point , mine is allso closed in the front where youre is open , this might allso help in my case
I've always used a heated mixture of salt and vinergar and soaked the parts in it until the desired color is acheived then rinse with soada water and thoroughly dry and oil. It's much safer and no worry of embrittlement on hardened parts.
