Ford tattooed, Powerstroke enthusiast. Me and my diagnosing, tinkering, upgrading and reviewing. Doing what I can to make helpful videos for your repairs and upgrades. Mostly older Ford trucks. Hit that subscribe button!
Instagram @BryanBuilt360 Feel free to send a message!
Thank you very much, just completed my gasket replacement. Your video made it possible for me to approach this job and complete it with confidence. 👍 The best video for this task on RU-vid!
Thank you for showing the line up of the tools you used at the beginning of the video. I found that to be very helpful. I struggled this morning trying to remove the two bottom bolts on the fan mount bracket. I was not successful in part due to not having a flexible-head or a battery-powered ratchet wrench. The very limited access to those bolts made it difficult to get my XXL size hands in position to place the sockets and standard ratchet wrench on the six-sided bolt heads. When you mentioned that you wished you had brought your twelve-point sockets to make it easier to place the 13 mm socket on the fan mount bracket bolt heads, I was stunned that I didn’t think of that solution earlier today. Last but not least, I thought about disconnecting one end of the steering stabilizer to create more access to the bottom fan bracket bolts, but I was hesitant to do it because I had never done that before. So, I put the job on hold and started watching more videos about the fix for a vacuum pump leak. I’m very thankful that you invested the time and effort to make this video; it has been a great benefit to me!
@@chrisglennon3801 glad you found it helpful, that’s actually a good idea with the steering stabilizer. Just have to make sure it all goes back in the same place. When you get back to it let us know what you ended up doing so we all can learn!
Thanks for the video, im about to tackle this. Question, did your truck ever make any crazy “tones” prior to this. Not kidding, it sounds like dial up internet coming from my dash.
@@EdcGuru03 no problem, glad you found it helpful. Dial up 😂 makin me feel old… umm, my old Sony stereos made some beep boop noises, other than that, if you have the original door buzzer they can get staticky in the end. The got replaced with a chime if they were ever replaced but they too could do that. Hopefully not an electrical short making that noise 😱
The main thing you forgot to tell us.What are the torque values on all of them bolts?Because the whole problem of this that everybody says is Ford didn't Torch them correctly and did not use lock to the same question.I ask in the beginning what are the torque values
I suspect that the previous poster meant to say 89 INCH POUNDS / 10 Newton Meters for the vacuum pump bolts!!! Eighty-nine lbs. ft. of torque will break those tiny bolts for certain. I have read in the comments left on videos posted by other creators on this topic that thirty-five (35) lbs ft of torque is a safe torque value for the fan mount bracket.
I have a 97 F350 and fought leaks in the valley for months . Turned out it was coming from the fuel pump. After I replaced the pump the leak returned. I did an autopsy and the cause was the way the diaphragm was swaged to the actuator shaft so the atmosphere side would fill with diesel and pump out of the vent holes. I replaced the mechanical pump with an electric pump with filters on the frame and haven't had any diesel leaks for years. So many of the replacement parts are inferior. Same with the mechanical vacuum pump.
@@oskarbud525 you’re absolutely right. I did the fuel pump a few weeks prior to this. I guess I got a good one 😂 I have been seeing and reading a “new wave” of Motorcraft parts that are inferior too. We’re in for some wild times. 🤦🏼♂️ Appreciate the comments, keep em on the road 😎
This was a great video, I’ve got a 7.3 with the same symptoms and same conditions of the fluids. Going to test out the harness connections and then likely buy a heat gun lol
why put the umbrella back on? i thought the hutch mod also deleted that becasue they inevitably always break? is there another option for the end of the pick up?
@@snewcomer6831 I put it back on because I didn’t feel comfortable with just a metal line there, in case it dropped I didn’t want it to touch the tank and potentially rub through. Also prevent aeration nearby was a theory in my head. Also just did a search at driven diesel and don’t see the valve option anymore, just the extra fuel line. Dang!
@@WhiteLightning79 this set I was able to buy a whole package deal on Amazon. I’m doing another truck soon and had to buy them separately but still on Amazon! Seems to be the best price out there at those times! Hope that helps 😎
Good job. Doesn't it drive you nuts that the bad injector didn't fail the contribution test. I had a similar problem, black smoke, no power, couldn't get over 1600 hpop psi. Lucky for me the cylinder that failed the contribution test was the bad injector (buzz test sounded off on that cyl too). Changed all the o rings on that side and put in an old injector for now. Smoke is gone, psi & power is back. I suspect it was stuck open. Next time I'll also check the injector tip for cracks. Interesting that you had black then white smoke.
Sure does sound like one of the injectors was stuck open. Probably on the oil side. Did you ever run it with the valve cover open to see what was coming out of the spout? Appreciate your comments. I have another injector video when I replaced the ones and diagnosing that was a nightmare!
After new glow plugs my cylinder #1 is saying it has an open circuit…I wonder if I bumped the injector solenoid clip off when reinstalling the valve cover. Now I have to check. I will check continuity first and buzz test.
Ahhh haaa. Definitely start with checking the number one before pulling the valve cover. If you see zero changes in multimeter than chances are it became disconnected. Way to isolate and Identifyn
Thank you to this info. Dumb question: How are you cleaning the valve cover wiring harness connector? Wipe off oil and compressed air? Any other methods? I’m trying to solve a P1271 code for cylinder #1.
No problem dude, keep us all updated here with questions and wins! Generally I like to use a contact cleaner or electric motor cleaner. CRC makes it and is usually in stock at AutoZone or Napa. It sprays in and evaporates. Compressed air works well but can leave a little film. I wouldn’t recommend brake clean, it will warp and damage the rubber seals for plug connections. What year and mileage is the truck? Ever had injectors before?
@@bryanbuilt360 2002 7.3. 180k miles. Never had new injectors. I’ve had the truck 1.5 years. It was in sorry shape when I got it. This is my “last” code and visible issue. Extreme maintenance has occurred: New under valve cover wiring harnesses New complete upper wiring harness *All* new electrical sensors (oem only) New ICP New batteries IDM verified by credible shop in Chattanooga, TM New Water-pump Fresh Oil and all fluids New fuel filter I used hotshot stiction eliminator in the oil I put the hotshot fuel additive in the diesel. On and on…I want to love this girl but she is hard on me.
What city do you live in. ?ca ? Hard to find an honest mechanic . Your truck looks clean . I wish mine looked like that . Cool channel learning alot .thnks much appreciated
Dude! I actually bought a wiring harness and have a bad valve cover gasket and ICP sensor to make a new video. That seems to be the biggest video missing on the internetz “people are like, oh yeah just test pin 41” wut?!? 😂😂😂
@@bryanbuilt360 I am having a dead miss at cold start in mine then when it warms up it goes away in a instant literally. Fixing to tare into it and see what i can find. Running stiction eliminater through it now
@@juniorthompson2023 definitely use the heat gun method, if you have a block heater try starting the truck with that. Also, I have another bad injector video on here. Mine would not start under 50degrees and no scanner or multi meter was going to figure out I had a few bad injectors. Heat gun measured and verified!
I really struggled with the down pipe on my 2000 F350. That is until I watched this video. Then it took less than 5 minutes. Mine has fiberglass wrap and I thought that might be my doom but it went right in doing it this way Thank you very much
Thanks many...i am facing that job now..got same truck and watched video before hand and will watch during...looks like i gotta wait till payday for part..😮
To more easily place new magnet on without damaging. Drain the coolant. Remove coolant Reservoir Unbolt compressor ...compressor only, no a/c hoses Stand compressor up as best as you can for a better angle Use Dead Hit rubber hammer. Do Not use metal hammer, will damage unit.
No issues there, keep running it and check for other potential leaks in that time. I’m still running around with it haha which reminds me, I’m probably due for an oil change 😂
I thankfully did not have issues and depending on how bad the rust is (lol) grinding the head off won’t get the bed off. The shoulders of the bed bolts are wider than the hole in the crossmembers. So shoulder holds bed down to frame. However, in that situation I have welded 7/8” nuts to the heads of the bed bolts and turned them out that way
@@cadenprosise2609I didn’t do this but. Cleaned out the valley and sprayed parts cleaner until it looked dry. Like was at the HPOP line that goes to the head. Replaced the o ring. I also found a small leak under the fuel filter bowl, but haven’t take that apart yet.
@@Raskzi was it hard or expensive to fix? My 7.3 has been slowy leaking for awhile and today its been dumping and i mean puddles of oil now, stressed is an understatement right now.
@@cadenprosise2609 no wasn’t hard just got napkins and cleaned all the oil out, then sprayed it with brake cleaner cans. Make sure it is dry and turn it on, get in there and look for the leak with a flash light.
Did you ever address the repair of the fuel sending unit resister which supposedly is not available separately? I enjoy and appreciate your videos. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻
Hey brother, I did not get around to it. Ford used the same resistor in the sender I think 1988 and up, that chip has to be swapped to the tan plastic housing on the sender. Most of them I have seen are yellow wires, I really need to make that video as these senders are so damn expensive
My 99F250 has 533000 miles on it.Never touch the air conditioning system and it blows like forty six degree air. Problem is yesterday.I turned the air on for the first time and there is nothing happening.So I looked under the truck.My center boat and the front of the clutch is falling off l o l. The magnetic coil and the pulley are obviously still there but and I'm getting 12 V to the coil, but there's no clutch.And now I'm having a hard time finding that center boat and clutch only.I don't want to have to buy the whole assembly
@@bryanbuilt360 I'm gearing 12 v to coil and when it's energized, it sucks a screwdriver to it. Advance auto only sells the whole assy, but autozone has the bolt and clutch plate which is all I need. The 3 shims were still somehow stuck to it so I have them. I ordered the kit from advance today as I have account w them but they couldn't tell me if bolt comes w it or not. If it don't, then I'm going to autozone, which I don't particularly care for 🤣
@@michaelcollins1899 good to know! But I share the same feeling, I had to buy 8 injectors from A Z during the pandemic because I couldn’t find anywhere else… didn’t turn out to well 🤣
Still sold out. How much was it? I might just make one now that I’ve the inspiration. I’d put down some sort of shelf liner to help stop everything from rattling.
nice video, i will be referring to this when I do those lines in the future. i ended up replacing all of the orange boots on my motor with the riffraff ones, definitely high quality and likely better than stock was new.
Glad to hear it, I ended up getting those riffraff boots as well! Love riffraff! Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions when you go about doing your project! 😎
@@bryanbuilt360 ok, thanks. I did a kit over the weekend and between the cramped space and oil going everywhere, it was not a good time and have leaks now.
@@BoboMarioBros ahhh shoot. Thats never fun. Maybe a bad oring? I just pulled my turbo and think one of the pedestal orings was defective, I don’t want to go back again but it’s leaking 😩
You made my day man. I had the exact same scenario, went thru the same troubleshooting you did and had the same results. Watched hours of video trying to figure out what was happening. Saw your video 2 nights ago, got a temperature gun yesterday after work, found #5 running way hotter than the rest, replaced it and no more smoke. Thank you for posting that video.
@@WalterMelons ahhhh damn. That sux. Did they mention if there was any type replacement? I’ll do some research as well and see if I can find a replacement. What a bummer though!
Instead of removing the shifter to fill the trans (I would have said tranny, but that's not politically correct these days, especially if you've blown your tranny !) why not just tape a small rubber hose to a funnel and pour it into the side hole from above when you removed the boot (then you don't have to remove the shifter and introduce dirt into the trans)
