Thats a nice tree! I have a hass i just planted in ground its about 4ft and i want to grow it like yours do you have to trim large bottom branches to make sure it grows tall.
Yes… I had to prune this tree often, otherwise it would be impossible to get under it to care for it properly. Avocado trees are great at extracting nutrients from the soil for fast tree growth. What they’re not good at is extracting water from the soil. And that makes perfect sense right? Because avocado trees are more tropical fruit trees, they’re from a climate that has tons of moisture precipitation & fewer nutrients in the topsoil due to volcanic activity. So they are used to climates that have a lot of rainwater, preventing them from extracting too much water from the soil in tropical regions where there is excess rainfall. And they have excellent ability to extract nutrients from the soil for growth since typically they live in environments where there are fewer nutrients in the soil because of less topsoil production from other annual plant foliage decay. So they do grow exceedingly fast if they have sufficient water & should be pruned regularly. The reason they should be pruned is similar to why they don’t need extra nutrients & do need extra water… tropical environments provide extra water, fewer soil nutrients & lots of tropical wind that tends to naturally prune the branches. Does that all make sense?
My tile roof needs repair. My roofer said that the underlayment has holes and are not waterproofing. But no need to replace it, just need to get the tiles repaired. Does this sound right?
I suppose it depends on how hard it rains & how large the holes are in your felt paper. Tiles are designed to keep 95% to 98% of the rainwater from penetrating through the tiles. And that’s when tiles are installed correctly. If you have holes in your underlayment & it rains hard, 2%-5% of all that rain will penetrate through the tiles & a percentage of that water will also find its way through the holes in your felt paper. The tile is your primary barrier & felt underlayment is your secondary barrier. Hope this helps & thanks for watching.
I currently use OSI Quad for roof applications, because it’s available where I work, but any exterior polymer will do. I don’t use silicone because it doesn’t adhere to other construction materials well, & I don’t use anything that dries hard, because I can’t disassemble it again in the future if I have another problem & need to service it a second or third time. You just have to figure out what your specific need is & read the labels until you find what works best for you. Hope that helps.
1/2” plywood or 7/16” OSB 30lb ASTM felt underlayment stand. 8D nails for sheathing 7/8” metal cap galv. felt nails OSI Quad all season caulking 10D galvanized nails for tile Hammer Chalk line Flat nail-bar Saw Ext cord Leaf blower Nail/tool bags Etc. Thanks for watching…
Great video, it Seems like you’re saying you tuck the new underlayment under at the top, but then over the old underlayment on the sides. If that is correct, it seems like that would cause an issue in the upper corners. Thank you
Yes that’s correct. Every new course gets tucked under every old course above. That way if water ever happens to travel sideways, each new felt blanket is water tight in itself. And with something like flat tile where the tiles can actually cause water to run sideways, I like to seal each new course down to each old course on the sides to prevent this. Any higher profile tile typically doesn’t need sealed on the sides of the new felt though, because water inevitably tends to run down slope rather than across the roof like is often the case with flat tile. There are no problems created in the upper corners by tucking the new under the course above & overlapping the old below.
Yes. When you do literally thousands of leak repairs you get pretty good at recognizing the difference between possible problems & real problems. The homeowner didn’t ask me to look for problems, so unless they do, I don’t go looking for problems unless I see something they’ve missed. Ceilings tell a great story for whether or not there’s a current issue worth addressing. I remember inspecting their entire ceiling in this area & saw no sign of water intrusion or leaks. I’ve got 36 years experience diagnosing, troubleshooting & waterproofing & the customer never called me back regarding additional leaks. Just sayin…
@@MrThedocholiday No leaks is a well done job. I clean hundreds of feet of 10-20yr old valleys. Just a suggestion if ya want more $$$ per tile repair. I show the dirt in a 10ft area once taken apart and many+ neighbors say go for it. $$$$ i should have attached a pic. p.s. est. 1983
Sorry, but I don’t think it needs clips. Your assumption that the repair area can’t come back apart when assembled with glue 10 years later, is dead wrong with the adhesive I use. Done it. Been there, done that. I don’t like assumptions either. They kinda irritate me because they are rooted in a kind of ignorance that thinks it knows better than the ones it’s making assumptions about. You may indeed know something I don’t know, but even if you do, making assumptions about it makes you look ignorant. Ask questions instead. They actually make you look smart & help you become even smarter.
SRY Dan. I have been installing and repairing Tile roofs for 39.5 yrs. I realize now you are informing home owners. I have NEVER installed any of my (10-20 THOUSAND)concrete tile roofs without proper layout and battens. Clay, Slate, Diamond metal, Tin, Aluminum panel, etc can go on a 2-ply 30lb. underlayment. NO BATTENS???????? who does this! In what states is this done! Be safe sir. ruzty..... pss glueing tiles is not my style, they should be able to move with structure and earth. Wires or clips.
I simply don’t have the time to bring you up to speed on all your wrong assumptions about my video with the evidence required to correct your assumptions. Although I can easily justify everything I did, to explain why after I already explained it in the video, is simply too time consuming. You need to go back through everything you’ve said & challenge what you think & why first. Then you need to ask yourself under what circumstances might what you think be wrong. Then you need to research codes & installation recommendations of various materials outside of your bubble of experience. Ask yourself why do you do what you do & why might others do what they do? If you can’t answer honestly & offer yourself several possibilities for doing something different than you would do, the you haven’t yet understood the complexity of what you’re talking about & you have more work to do in your understanding of what you’re talking about before giving advice to others… especially when being critical of others. Pick one thing you think I did wrong in the video & I will gladly substantiate why I did it the way I did it according to quality & according to local code. But never critique someone else with generalities without knowing the full scope of all the exceptions of your critique & neglecting to scrutinize your own potential misconceptions of the context in which others are working, especially in front of onlookers if you desire to be taken seriously. There are far too many wrong assumptions in your critique & you need to go back & figure out what those wrong assumptions are before correcting my work. I just don’t have the time or the patience to hold your grown-up hand on this subject & address all your assumptions.
I’m sorry. I didn’t mean to come off salty. Been a little grumpy lately. 😊 But anyway… yeah, this is absolutely the correct way to do tile in So Cal for the last 30 years. And it actually works well when done right. Battens always cause secondary problems & aren’t required on standard pitch roofs. Extra layers of underlayment cause problems also. So one good layer of felt & the tiles installed properly will get you 50 years or more down the road, as long as nobody breaks the tiles from tromping around up there chasing frisbees. 😁
Great videos! Those galvanized nails that hold the Felp paper. How do you prevent leaking through them? Same question for the nails that hold the tile to the roof. Thank you in advance!
The galvanized felt nails are waterproof in their design, provided they’re installed properly & not exposed to excessive water volume coming through the tiles. The felt nail shank seals as it goes through the tar-saturated felt paper. The large felt nail metal cap helps protect the nail shank seal as the shank goes through the felt. The tile nail shank also seals as it penetrates through the tar-saturated felt paper but because of its much smaller head, it’s not as waterproof & it’s much better protected from large volumes of water intrusion through the tile by the manufacturer’s recommend maximum tile exposure measurement of 13.5” at most. Some cement tile brands have allowed for a 14” weather exposure, but my 36 years of on the roof experience says 13.5” is the real maximum weather exposure if you want to protect your felt paper well & keep those felt nails waterproof also.
I stopped hiring helpers, because they keep telling me what their hack former employers used to do. Rapid fire roofing all high nails lol. Dumb people. Quality>Quantity Nice nails btw.
Would you recommend Boral tile seal as a good underlayment? I had one roofer offer to use Titanium PSU as the synthetic underlayment. The roof is made of concrete tile so it should last a long time in fair weather California. Would you still opt for tile seal or go with the synthetic?
I honestly don’t know. Unless an underlayment is designed to be exposed to the weather, I can’t see how it will be any more durable long-term than standard conventional felt if the tile cracks, breaks or slips out of place for some reason & exposes that underlayment to the weather.
@@MrThedocholiday so the installation of the tile is more important than the actual material of the underlayment you’re saying. I suppose it would boil down to which underlayment material lasts longer? I’ve seen the asphalt felt crumble apart after many years.
@@J_bui The standard felt paper will not crumble due to excessive moisture exposure if the tile is installed properly, which the tile manufacturers have made a clear priority from the very beginning. Why roofers continue to wrongly assume they don’t have to follow tile manufacturer’s installation recommendations is beyond lunacy to me. And it’s not like the roofer has to be a perfectionist during the installation in order to achieve this. The tile manufacturers afford wiggle room in their recommendation standards. From what I can tell, most roofers either don’t know what they’re doing or don’t care, or some combination of the two. And I’m actually being gracious in my assessment of them here, because I have had conversations with roofers who would rather brag about their BS installation methods & stubbornly continue them in favor of speed & greed instead of adopting manufacturer’s installation policies for themselves. Quality separates the men from the boys here as far as I’m concerned & a great reputation & quality track record proves who the craftsmen are when compared to the wannabe juvenile braggarts who’s tile installation methods are substandard. Prematurely underlayment failure is about lack of craftsmanship quality during the tile installation & rarely about the type of underlayment itself. I know this for a fact, because every time I’ve seen for myself what you’re describing about premature underlayment failure, I’ve been able to trace it back & show how the roofer failed to install the tile properly in the area of underlayment failure.
@@MrThedocholiday Great answer Dan. We received quotes from different roofers ranging from $4500 to $12,000 to replace the underlayment on a 1045 sq. ft. space beneath concrete tile. Upon inspection during the estimate, the way they laid the tile was without any sealant or glue to really hold things in place originally. The asphalt felt underlayment was able to break off as a result after 18 years. Do you think a difference in price between roofers would signify good workmanship? Appreciate your content!
I’m about to become a loader for a roofing company, kinda nervous because I’m really green in this industry but I know with time I’ll have it all figured out. Any advice from someone who’s been doing it for a long time would be greatly appreciated
If I may… 1. Do everything in life with quality first in mind, not quantity, regardless of criticism. 2. Practice doing quality in your work with ever increasing speed. 3. As soon as the quality of your work begins to suffer, slow your speed down slightly until the quality returns. 4. Always keep quality as the higher priority but always challenge yourself to see if you can do it faster without sacrificing quality. 5. Always be honest with yourself & others regarding the quality of your work, so you don’t make excuses & lie to yourself about speed being more important than quality. Otherwise you will make excuses & compromise your integrity for convenience, expediency & even for greed or bragging rights, fame or power. 6. Remember quality & doing things right always comes at a higher cost to you than doing things carelessly or selfishly. Tell me that’s not what is wrong in our culture today & I will have a good laugh while enjoying my quality reputation among my customers. 😎 Hope that helps you slay every job you land & maybe even start your own successful business some day like I did. Blessings & thanks for watching! Sincerely, Daniel
I always wonder if the 1932 D quarter I bought on Ebay over 10 years ago is a counterfeit. It has the right feel and look and sound of a standard silver quarter but it was not authenticated by seller and was sold without even the advertisement of a D mint mark as if the seller didn't even know the value of that key date. It was an auction and right before the auction ended it went from a few dollars to my winning bid of $16. It's in exceptional shape like AU. I still have it but never got around to getting it authenticated because honestly I feel like it is too good to be true.
From my perspective, if the total value of a coin is in question, doesn’t it make sense to risk sacrificing a portion of that value to have it authenticated either by a coin expert or by scratching an small edge portion of the coin onto a stone & acid testing it?
Great video thanks. This is not your work I have a question about, but I am very curious as to why it appears that the tile courses are not offset. Isn't that strange?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just had my roof redone after the felt underlayment failed and developed a leak. Fortunately it was under the patio and not inside the house. My contractor used the peal and stick fire and ice-type underlayment. I do have a question for you. Is it normal for nails to be partially exposed after a roof repair? I have several areas under my patio where nails are poking through and splinters knocked off in the process.
So yes… but they need not be poking through very far. They can be, but it’s aesthetically unpleasing. They have to be poking through at least a little bit, because…! The chisel point of a nail will force its way back out of the roof deck if any portion of the point remains inside the roof deck when natural expansion & contraction occurs due to heating/cooling cycles of daily & annual weather. Most roofers don’t know this, but will often default to using longer nails & leave them poking through an inch or more because they are typically Neanderthals who don’t appreciate aesthetics like most homeowners do. It’s just the reality of our current construction culture & practices.
I have been stressing thinking I was going to have to replace my entire roof to repair leak. This video was detailed and gave me valuable information to aid me in assessing roofers and checking the repair as it is in progress
Hey Dan, are you still in So. Cal? You repaired a section of my roof a few years ago and I was wondering if you could come out and repair a different area? Please let me know
No my friend, I’ve moved on from Cali. Two things I miss though are family & my roofing customers. Don’t know anyone there to refer. Thanks for your loyalty. Screen your contractors carefully.
@MrThedocholiday thanks Dan. You were unquestionably my choice, and I truly appreciated your honesty and conversations about church. GOD bless you , Sir.
I respectfully have a big problem with this video. When you lift up the adjacent non-damaged tiles, you are causing fastener pullout at the adjacent tiles. Watch the video closely at 1:42 thru 2:34. Note the tiles above and the tiles to the left of the damaged tile are being forced upward. This results in the nails to those tiles being pulled out of the wood decking and tearing the underlayment/breaking the seal of the underlayment and compromising the grip of the wood fibers around the shaft of the nail. This will lead to latent damage in 2 ways: increased risk of future wind uplift damage and allowing for the potential of future water intrusion. Spot repair methods such as shown in this video IGNORE the consequential damages caused to the roof assembly as a whole by doing this type of repair. To drive the point home further, let me illustrate the consequential damage caused. Take a thumb tack. Find a piece of hard wood. Drive that thumb tack into the wood with your thumb. You will note some solid resistance. Now pull that thumb tack out. You will note some solid resistance. Now take that thumb tack and push it back into the same hole. You will note ZERO resistance. Now pull that thumb tack out. You will note ZERO resistance. That's because the wood fibers are no longer acting as a vice grip around the metal shaft of the tack. And that is what happens when you pull up on adjacent tiles...you are pulling the fastener outward out of the decking (however little doesn't matter), permanently breaking the grip of the wood fibers around the nail (as well as breaking the seal of the underlayment around the fasteners)....leaving the roof assembly susceptible to future wind uplift damage. Sadly, the property owner doesn't know this, the roofer purposely ignores this (quick fix, quick money or property owner doesn't want to invest to do it the RIGHT WAY) until the next time 100 mph winds come through and tiles are flying all over the neighborhood. If you want to repair a tile roof CORRECTLY, remove ALL tiles ABOVE the damaged tile to the TOP-starting at the TOP OF THE FACET- down to the damaged tile(s). Don't take my word for it. One of the most well known tile manufacturers in America stated in 2019 properly "repairing any... tile roof REQUIRES a "lift & re-lay" procedure. ALL TILES on the affected slope shall be removed, broken tiles discarded, new tiles blended with existing tiles and re-iinstalled." I say again, the PROPER way to repair a tile roof assembly is to remove ALL courses of the tiles ABOVE the damaged tile down to the damaged tile course and all of the tiles to the left of the damaged tile on the same course. Replace the damaged underlayment with NEW underlayment (DO NOT PATCH OLD CRUSTY FELT PAPER- IT WILL NOT STICK over the long haul which I can prove with dozens of pictures), then replace the damaged tiles with new tiles back to pre-loss condition WITH NAILS.. That is the PROPER way to repair a tile roof. One more thought: Repairing a tile roof with caulking/adhesive is a bandaid fix which does not last as long as NAILING the tiles to the deck. Accordingly, this shortens the useful life of the roof assembly. You don't have to be roof savvy to realize nails will outlast and outperform caulking over the long term. Now, most homeowners (and contractors) simply don't care what MAY happen years down the road. Ever hear of pay it forward? In the last 2 decades, I have personally inspected hundreds and hundreds of tile roofs across America where roofing hacks repaired a tile roof with caulking that FAILED. Many of these homeowners who paid for these repairs moved on and sold to the current owners. I personally replaced over 30 clay tile roofs in New Orleans in 2022-2024 because the previous 'spot repairs' performed WITH CAULKING by so called experts after Hurricane Katrina FAILED due to 90MPH sustained winds in the hurricane of August 2021. Virtually all of the current owners did not own the home when Katrina hit. And guess what? There were shattered tiles (with caulking) all over the streets, walkways, yards of homeowners in New Orleans. Caulking a tile is NOT a long term solution. And it will NOT hold up to the sustained negative versus positive air pressures caused in extreme high wind situations/during hurricanes. It's a lazy cheap fix that may come back to bite the property owner down the road or the next person who buys the house/property. But again, if you don't care, and only have a few bucks to do a repair, then do it the cheap way as illustrated. But if you plan on owning the property for years to come, and especially if you live in a high wind area of the country, this is NOT the way to repair your tile roof.
Thanks for taking the time to watch my video & for writing a book. I read your entire comment. While you make several good points, there are always exceptions & exceptional craftsmen find skilled ways around the typical menaces that plague the average roofer. You would do well to have a little more open mind before making so many assumptions about my work. I’ll just make one response even though several are warranted… The nails you claim that I’m pulling out when I lift the tiles are not typically seated flush down on the tiles in the first place. This allows for some movement of the tiles without loosening the nail. Not only that, but the tiles typically also pivot a bit on the nail shaft. Just a couple nuances you don’t seem to have considered before drawing your conclusions. I like to ask myself, “what am I missing here?” before running ahead to my conclusion. You may want to adopt that policy so you can continue growing in your knowledge of your craft. Just sayin…
Good question. So here’s my answer. What’s wrong with plastic cap nails? There are 3 main reasons why plastic cap nails are bad & it’s not mainly because of water. 1. Plastic cap nails do not & cannot clamp the felt down to the roof deck like metal cap nails - like the felt needs clamped/held down under any extreme conditions. And all tile roofs are extreme conditions. 2. As soon as plastic cap nails are installed, they begin stressing the felt at the point where the cap nail itself penetrates through the felt, because the small metal nail head applies pressure to the felt but the larger plastic cap doesn’t provide nearly as much clamping pressure as the plastic cap metal nail head itself does, because the flimsy plastic flexes & retreats from the surface of the felt while the nail itself does not. For this reason the plastic doesn’t have the rigidity to hold the felt evenly around the perimeter of the plastic cap like the metal nail going through the plastic cap does, so the plastic cap is loose compared to the metal nail & immediately begins stressing the felt in this way the minute it is installed. Because it does so the hole in the felt from the plastic cap nails begin to enlarge very quickly compared to metal cap nails over time. 3. In addition to these immediate plastic cap flaws, the heat & humility under the tile cause the plastic to deteriorate at an accelerated rate that is not comparable to the rate of deterioration of any of the other roofing materials being used in the same roofing application. Plastic cap nails should have never been approved for tile roofs & the fact that they have been is proof that idiots often make rules based on speculation & theory without the slightest real experience & proof that their theories will work in the real world over time. I hope that helps relive some of the confusion regarding plastic cap nail flaws compared to metal cap nail strengths. Thanks for watching! -Dan-
I do maintenance for a solar company and the amount of broken tiles that the install guys leave underneath the array is insane. How fast does that felt paper rot ?
This is why I highly discourage having solar installed on tile roofs. Depending on the direction of the break & where it’s located, it can be as soon as 3 years or as long as 10. Either way, it’s a guaranteed future leak on a roof that’s designed to last 50-100 years.
Hi Dan, For a flat concrete tile roof, when two sides meet at 90 degrees, what is the recommended gap it needs to have so it will flush out the dirt in between the valleys? My original roof valley is less than 1/2 inch, and it is gathering leaves and dirt and is hard to clean out. Thanks for your input. Regards,
The top corner of each of the smaller ‘cut’ valley tiles which point up slope needs to be broken off or cut off, so that regardless of what the valley tile gap is, when debris gather in the valley, those ‘cut’ tiles don’t divert water across the roof out of the valley, under the tiles, onto the felt paper. Make sure whoever does this doesn’t leave the cut or broken corners in the valleys. In addition, I like the gap to be at least an inch on each side of the valley. Of course nobody breaks off or cuts off the top corner of all the smaller ‘cut’ valley tiles upon initial installation, so eventually all flat tile valleys without this installation method will leak for this reason. Valley metal companies have attempted to compensate for this ‘flat tile’ oversight by adding ridges to their valley metal, but it only requires a little debris to build up behind these top-pointed triangle shaped small ‘cut’ valley tiles for the rushing water to flow sideways right over the valley metal ridges, under the tiles, off the metal, across the roof & onto the felt paper. Without the top pointed corners of the smaller ‘cut’ valley tiles removed, you’re gonna need at least a 3” gap on each side of the valley to prevent water flowing out of the valley, across your roof, under the tiles. Because that’s how wide the river of water flows down a valley in a decent downpour. Making a total of at least a 6” gap. You do realize how terrible a 6” valley tile gap looks from the ground aesthetically, right? There is no other solution that I’ve found around this ‘flat’ valley tile issue over the last 36 years. And I have done literally thousands of roof repairs personally from my toolbag of tricks. Don’t let any blowhards tell you otherwise on this issue. There are a lot of blowhard roofers out there, so beware. My brother is re-roofing his flat tile roof himself 2600 miles away because of this very reason & he is pulling his hair out because I cannot repair it for him in person at this time. This flat tile valley issue is a nightmare to deal with. I’ve even watched blowhard arrogant expert roofers on RU-vid come in & reroof valleys for customers only to have them charge to do it again every 10-15 years. It’s basic physics. Do you know how hard it is to convince so-called experienced roofers of something they don’t already know? They would rather just keep recharging the customer to do it again, instead of learning a new method to solve this problem permanently.. If you like, I can draw diagrams of the issue & solution for you & email it back to you for a fee. My email is rooferdan@aol.com. I’ll give you my cell number at that time to discuss any questions you might also have. At least you can do this yourself or have another roofer do it for you. Knowledge is power…
2024 lol The difficult part was ALREADY DONE, thanks; that was, to FIND the problem; I would just buy 100 cartridges of mastik,PU, silicone, ... and go one by one with it, no question at all...
That still won’t solve the underlayment issues from years of stretched courses. We can apply all the silicone on the planet & still not fix the bad felt underneath. Point is… stretched courses always result in having to tearoff an otherwise perfect roof, just to replace the felt.
We just recently had a leak on our ceiling that could have been because of our roof. This video was so helpful in understanding what was going on. Thank you this was very informational. Now i understand why it cost so expensive to get roof repairs done its so much work put into it.
It’s funny you say that… My brother just did some major repairs on his own roof as I walked him through it over text & the phone. He was really clueless what all is involved & now he has a new found appreciation for how his roof works. It kinda takes a lot of the mystery out of the equation when someone knowledgeable takes the time to explain things, doesn’t it? I really enjoy helping others when I can. Thanks for your kind words & for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday yes watching that entire video gives me an insight of what goes on and understanding the process. Thank you again i really appreciate it.
Hi Dan, In 2024, what is the cement roof tile glue you recommend using to fix the cracked cement roof tile? I cannot find the sealant you were using. If you were to get it from Home Depot or another big box store, what would be the best one to use? Thanks!
I think with all the service people we have walking around on roofs here in the US, our decision makers realized we needed solid sheathing & felt underlayment or we would simply have too many leaks to deal with. I’ve worked on some of the older roofs here with open spaced sheathing & no felt & they require a meticulous repairman to get them all sealed up, but that’s after all the foot traffic on the roof.
@@MrThedocholiday I've actually had the problem with service people taking off tiles and punching a hole in the underlayment (we sometimes use sarking in Australia), and then just leaving the hole. Electricians and the phone company notorious for this.
I use OSI Quad construction sealer adhesive. It’s available on Amazon & comes in various colors. It will only last a couple years exposed to the weather, so you may want to put a sheetmetal flashing over it & paint the metal to match your tile. Most of the time when I do these repair for others, the customer only wants a couple year warranty so I just do whatever they tell me to do, but you may want to go the extra mile on your own roof & flash over the caulking as I mentioned.
Because felt paper is designed as a tile underlayment, while tarps are not. And felt actually works really well as long as people stay off their roofs after they’re installed correctly.
@@MrThedocholiday "Because felt paper is designed as a tile underlayment, while tarps are not" ok but why? (following what people are saying / doing blindly (without even talking about conflict of interest) isn't an explaination).
Never let roofers who don’t know what they’re doing, don’t care what they’re doing or any combination of the two, roof, repair or reroof your house. If you do, they will screw up comp shingles just as bad as they screw up tile roofs. However, with that said, I like comp better also.
