I bought an FR-301 on ebay for half the price they go for on Amazon. The catch? It is the Japanese spec version - 100VAC. But it works just fine off 120V. Seller claims he's sold hundreds of them to US buyers, znd one customsr took it apzrt to find out the difference, which was a series resiztor on the motor. At 120V, the motor runs a little faster, but works fine.
I don't understand the point of doing things like this. At this point it's no longer original hardware. Just get an FPGA and get on with your NES life with an amazing experience.
It's very interesting with that V4 board. Mine did nothing for 30 minutes. I left it on, walked out of the room to go calm down, then I come back and that green LED is finally turned on and the board works. It never did that again, but on the first install it did literally nothing for so long.
Great work, I built a Nes with the Opentendo board for a friend and recorded the process on my channel, and now I'm going to build another Nes with the Opentendo board with this power board that you built, I'm looking forward to seeing the result.
I would have just installed an aftermarket cartridge slot replacement. They're more robust than the original in my experience. No more blowing on cartridges!
I was driving yesterday and I realised that the NES wasn't really that different from the micro computers yet it feels very different. Let me explain what I mean. It has 2 input buttons on the joystick - a and b...but the dpad is really what makes it feel different to me, it just works so much better than a joystick for platformers. And really the majority of SNES games just focused on 2 or 3 buttons out of the 6 available (I'm ignoring start and select here).
Don't ever boil, bend or sand pins! Just put some Deoxit D100L on it! Sanding the pins removes the plating on the pins and makes them more susceptible to more oxidation!
The pins do bend out of alignment though. Bending or boiling are about the only means to fix that. Deoxit can't bend pins back into alignment. You're absolutely right about sanding it though. That's the absolute last resort, and even then, if you don't have a means of replating it, it's only a matter of time before they corrode again, and faster.
@@Dark_Jaguar I've never had a slot where they bent from normal use, I've only seen it where someone bent the pins trying to make it tighter. I've got a video on my channel where I fix a bunch of NESs with just Deoxit
The ZD-8915 is much better quality than the ZD-915. The fan is there but very quiet, the tips are smaller (better forhese machines need to heat up a lot longer than to the right temperature. And the stand is heavy duty!
I have a +2, 48k rubber key and 48k+. Personally I love all of them but theres something about the rubber key model I love. I have bought a VLA82+ kit which converts this use an RGB signal instead, so I get the best of both worlds Am i right in saying there wasn't many 128k only software? I was lead to believe that there was so many 48k boards sold that support didnt completely dry up until the late 80s/early 90s?
I rather watch successful SMD soldering, a little bit of flux, then a thingy to keep the part in position, then a small soldertip heating up the part, then solder that has not been approved by the loony bunch in Bruxelles. You can't do it with two hands, a mechanical third hand is needed to keep the part in place, or else a light breeze of breath will blow the part away. Don't show horror porn of partially decapitated computer boards. I don't want to see it. Old computers should be kept in a box, waiting for a revival.
Um, excuse me? Hated? I LOVED my Amiga 600. Words like "everyone" only have a valid use when there are no dissenting opinions, therefore your title card is incorrect.
Man for me it was zx81 zx spectrum the BBC model 2 another mate had a c64 at high school we had an Econet of 12 BBC micros. One had a disk drive. That was the one I played elite on I ha e a copy of Elite for the BBC micros it has the key thing you put over the function keys I could take this all day ! N!
16:16 You also have to consider the broken pads that will result from trying to get out components on multi-layer boards, where the Duratool's (in my case KATSU) lack of thermal mass and suction leave having to resort to braid or heating pins with an iron in order to get the solder off the hole plating. The Hakko will leave a clean hole, the Doratool et al, no so much. A professional tool will lead to a professional job (in the right hands). 17:00 I just don't agree with that, I got the Hakko for occasional use with tricky circuit boards (a MK1 Audioloab MDAC springs to mind - it has a 4-layer board) a cheap desoldering station such as the Duratool will just not cut it; when I pick up a desoldering tool I want it to work for me not against me
One of the main problems with the commodore machines was that upgrades often were incompatible with software (mainly games). Having progressed from ZX81 and BBC-B micro and master I got a 500+. Later I added a scsii hard drive on my 500+ but had to disable it to run many of my favourite games. I remember similar complaints from "lucky" people who had the money to upgrade to 1200s then found difficulties. Happily I had many years of Pinball Dreams / fantasies and Lemmings before I moved to P.C. (mainly due to demise of commodore leading to lack of new support and software). Good Times nevertheless
13:30 I remember I had a whole box of graphics cards like that. when I wanted some chips off one of them, I literally just took some sort of pliers, and wiggled the chips off. It ripped a whole bunch of tracks off the board too, but the chips were in otherwise perfect condition to use in their new home. I mean, I had an entire box of about 50 of them, they were going into E-Waste.
I honestly wouldn't say the Amiga 600 is "Worst" than an A500. It's basically an A500+ in hardware, with the addition of PCMCIA and a built in IDE hard drive controller. It was only an issue if you actually wanted to use some of the existing hardware expansions (that didn't plug into the back ports, like a floppy drive), so for the people it was aimed at (Like my Dad who didn't have an Amiga at the time), it was a brilliant starter model. The 1200 is a lot better though.
Added fast ram only blocks the PCMCIA port functionality if you go over 8MB. You'll need some to run whdload games. Some cards even come with jumpers to downscale the fast mem so you can pick and choose how it works.
I'm torn, I love the A600 and that another Amiga was brought back. Disappointed that a retro GPU had to die to get those memory chips when chip memory upgrades with new hardware are readily available. Glad that the hot air delamination didn't totally destroy the board but, could that be the source of the flickering video?
A600's are a great wee machine, at least it doesn't take up a whole desk like the huge a500.. Also a nice option for clearing out the inside and putting a mister in ;)
If only they had used the ZILOG Z800 would have made for a better computer and code could be faster as there would have been MUL,UMUL and DIV,UDIV instructions would mean you would not have to write multiply or divide routines.
Just to point out some times there a key combo to disable some fast ram to enable the pcmcia, or as long as you do t go over 4/4.4 mg fast ram it may work still can I not remember the limit.
I had an A600 back in the day, all my A500 owning friends were fascinated by it, especially how light the AC box was compared to theirs. But the only thing I didn't like about it was that I couldn't play Robocop 3 on it >.>
